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Everything posted by Duntongw

  1. Duntongw

    340- utility

    pto ok, what is lpto
  2. I am not familiar with the actual part you are referring to, others on here I am sure will chime as to how it is normally done. In regard to a machining aspect, depending on the amount of buildup needed, you may be able to build it up with hard chrome, which is a controlled buildup, but I don't remember exactly, the maximum may be around .0025 per side. If the part can be turned or machined otherwise, map plating (machinable alloy plating) which I believe is a nickel base, can be applied and ground or turned to needed diameter.
  3. Our 66 series tractors are all white sided(non black stripe, whatever the term is). I saw a 966 for sale that was a black stripe, and was wondering a couple of things. I see the 66 series seem to have been built from 1971 to 1976. Was the black stripe change on the 66 series just a decorative change, or was this a new rebuild for that series tractor? I have not been around the 86 series tractors, so I may be completely off with this comment. To me, the 66 series are more a mechanical build while the 86 series is starting more toward the electronic build like the newer tractors are. I
  4. Didn't mention, Ammeter seems to be working now also. This tractor sets out all the time, but out here in SoCal, it's obviously not like back east. I can't imagine the amount of time and money needed to keep equipment running that has to live outside all the time. It always amazes me, the people that spend umpteen thousands of dollars on those little loader/backhoe tractors for their yard work, and you see them setting out along side of their garage, in the rain and snow all year round. For crying out loud, even a tarp isn't that expensive.
  5. Took the alternator to a rebuild shop to have it tested, yep, it's shot. "Can you tell if this was a cause for the short, or if a short caused the failure?" "Well, when I hooked it up to test it, it had flames coming out of it, so I would say this was your short." Hooked up new alternator and gauge, so far so good. Trying to de-corrode the light switch now, hopefully will have it all going tomorrow and working.
  6. The other thing that keeps nagging at me, is that the amp gauge does not move. Since it's wires are coming from the alternator, this seems strange to me. Even if I turn on lights, no movement. If I disconnect the wires to the amp gauge, is there a basic way to test the gauge? I will go out and disconnect wires to amp gauge, and battery line to alternator, see if fuse blows. Make sense? Then start to reconnect.
  7. This is a small tractor, and needless to say, the harness is rather small. Seems the only time it blows is when the gauge and alternator are both attached. Can't be the gauge, been replaced, and as I mentioned before, if I check with 12v circuit light at the pressure switch, in and out, it seems alright until both gauge and alternator are attached, and then it acts like it has a draw on it of some sort. The gauge by itself is alright, the alternator by itself is alright, what happens when both are connected? That wire is going from the alternator to the pressure switch to the gauge.
  8. 20 amp fuses, will have to go out to garage to check leads. Don't see a maker on back or outside of alternator, would have to remove from tractor to see side toward engine.
  9. Seems like we lost a post here somewhere. Anyway, I tested resistance on the alternator on the tab that has the wire going to the pressure switch, and got 1.45. The other tab I got no reading. This is with side wires unplugged, battery wire still connected, battery disconnected.
  10. I have a sender and gauge on there way, maybe tomorrow. Will go from there. Thanks again for your help.
  11. Rechecked the sender wire and got same reading basically 4.0 Disconnected wire to alternator, still plugged into pressure switch. No reading. Checked power side of Pressure Switch which is still plugged in, and getting around 1.57. Checked out side of pressure switch, nothing. Tractor not running, switch open. Going to be working up on roof, so probably won't get back at this until this evening.
  12. Duntongw


    Thank you.
  13. Tony: As mentioned before, I am not a multimeter genius by any stretch. Hopefully this is what you are looking for, if not let me know. A) Power wire connected at alternator and pressure switch, disconnected from gauge. Reads 1.48 Checking from gauge end of wire to engine ground. B)Power terminal to case, no reading C)Sender terminal to case, no reading (Power terminal to sender terminal reads 112) D) Sender wire connected to sender, not to gauge, checks 3.99 from gauge end of wire to engine ground.
  14. Obviously done on a wet grinder. If it still leaks, not that.
  15. I am not familiar with this cover or how big it is, but I can't imagine that .003 is going to cause it to leak. It's probably not going to be much flatter when their done with it. The picture of the gasket you show varies more than that. I could very well be 100% wrong, but I think you have another gremlin.
  16. Checked it over, cleaned it up, put back, fuse toast. Time to try to track down a gauge. Thank you again for your time and help, greatly appreciated.
  17. I had checked it when this all started and seemed alright, then not, seems erratic. Mine only has 2 posts (and light socket, disconnected), hot in and sender. Held in place by cross bracket that goes over both studs, which have insulated with fiber bushing between studs and clamp. I am not a multimeter wizard. If I set it on Ohms (digital meter), and hold leads on each post, I get around a 112 reading.
  18. Pulled gauge out, reads cold, put hot jumper on one side, ground other, gauge jumps up to hot, take off, goes back to cold. Insulators on bracket look good. May just be dirty connections issue. At first was not getting anything, but kept trying and now works each time I try.
  19. Yes, 2 studs out of back of gauge that are also the mounting studs for clamping bracket. If I pull the gauge out of the dash, what is best way to test gauge then?
  20. Thank you again, both of you for your patience and help, it is very much appreciated.
  21. Test Four: Fuel Gauge disconnected. I am not concerned with the fuel gauge, it has been totally disconnected, and out of the picture. Pressure switch hot line in, hot line out connected to alternator only, temp gauge not connected. Temp gauge hot and sender lines both disconnected. Alternator connected. Starts and fuse is good. At this point, test (3) would be for temp gauge to be connected at same time as alternator, and fuse blows when this happens. Only line connected to temp gauge is hot line, no others.
  22. The wire that runs from the Pressure Switch to the Alternator and Temp Gauge, seemed questionable, as in kind of brittle insulation. With it unplugged from the PS and the Alternator, but still connected to the Temp Gauge(sender wire disconnected), I tried a continuity test to the frame, and it was positive. Disconnected it from Gauge, and then tested clear. That is telling me that the hot wire is going to ground thru that post/gauge, correct? I assume that post needs to be insulated somehow. Temp Gauge has (2) posts that go thru hold down clamp. If I do continuity from hot post to frame,
  23. Ok, curiosity got the best of me. First Test: Fuel gauge totally disconnected. Alternator unplugged. Pressure switch hot line in, hot line out to temp gauge only(Alternator is unplugged for second wire). Wire disconnected from temp sending unit. Starts and fuse is good. Second Test: Fuel Gauge disconnected. Pressure switch hot line in, hot line out disconnected. Alternator connected. Starts and fuse is good. Third Test: Fuel Gauge disconnected. Alternator plugged in. Pressure Gauge hot line in, hot line out to temp gauge and
  24. Thank you both very much for your help and suggestions. Let me do some checking, probably be into tomorrow sometime.
  25. Yes, this is the fuse that keeps blowing. The million dollar question is why. Pretty basic wiring system, should be able to figure out. I can put a new fuse in, and that will let it start, but once I shut it off and look at fuse, it's toast. This fuse has to be good for it to turn over. Without getting into detail, is it possible for the water temp sender to be shorting out causing it to blow? Is that something that can short out, or if it's bad it just doesn't work? Since it is a grounded entity, I don't see how it can get into the hot line to blow a fuse, my thinking anyway.
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