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Duntongw

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Everything posted by Duntongw

  1. Yes, it appears to be an earlier Louisville tractor.
  2. I see on earlier tractors (24,34,44 series), the differential lock was standard on all tractors. I have recently bought a 574, and it does not have a dif lock. Was this an option? I read something that kind of insinuated that they didn't have a dif lock, that they had something instead in the differential itself. Thanks for your help.
  3. I don't know how much I can help you, but maybe some. I have a 434 which is basically the same tractor in that area. As far as the hydraulics, the tank that is under the seat, is your hydraulic reservoir. In the your bottom picture, where you have the circle, there is a steel tube about 7/8" dia., that has a piece of rubber hose on it about 3" long. Where that tube goes into the tank, there is an O ring on the diameter, and a steel mesh filter on the end of it in the tank. If you want to change the hydraulic fluid, you should clean this also. Mind you, if you pull this out with the tank f
  4. PN # 402928r1 is the correct number and is no longer available thru IH, other than finding one setting in stock somewhere. The bushing is not top hat shaped, it is tubular, .845 OD, with a .375 hole thru it. It is .375 thick, but one face is concave and the other convex. The water pump had come from Atlantic Quality Parts, not TPP as was originally noted. The grommet did not come with the pump.
  5. Thank you, I had even called the IH dealer, and he did not know of it.
  6. This is what I found as far as price, they ranged from $72 to $150. I got the one on amazon from Total Power Parts from I believe Tennessee, They had a very high rating and best price with free shipping. Part number for the pump is 400677R92. One thing that I have come across since taking the pump off is, the bottom of the pump bolts to the front cover/block, and uses the rectangular gasket that you will see. But the top of it also presses up against the thermostat housing, and where it does, there is a top hat shaped rubber grommet that gets sandwiched in between the two. I have no
  7. My 574 had been setting for a number of years, and when running, squeals like a bansee. I replaced belt and alternator, no luck. I assume the only thing left is the water pump. I don't see any weeping, but can get a small amount of wobble at the end of the blades. Needless to say, I am unable to find a part number off of the IH parts site, and in looking on the net, I am coming up with 2 different numbers Does any one happen to know or know where I can get the part number for a 574 gas, c-200 water pump? Any good places to get a pump? Thank you for your time and help.
  8. I don't know if I can help, but I have a 434 with a loader. I don't know if there plumbed the same, but it makes a difference on mine, where the 3 point is located and the control lever for the 3 point. I have 2 valves in front of the seat, and one has to be open and the other closed. If both are closed at the same time, it will act like you say. Once I have switched the valves to activate the loader, I have to have the 3 point physically down off of high limit some, and after I switch the valves, I have to pull the 3 point lever up to full lift, to get the loader activated. So in short, try
  9. We had one of those radios, didn't work for crap. I'm curious, what did you put on the sheet metal to give it that sheen?
  10. If you bear with me a minute, I'll get to the point. While living in CA, I had a 60 corvette that I did a body off restoration on. I loved that car, drove the daylights out of it, but, I sold it. Why? I got tired of putting out money for junk, electricals, chrome parts, radiators, eventually even a brand new gm crate motor that they would not stand behind. I recently bought a 574 with low hours and seems to have been stored inside. It had been stored for awhile, so I have some things to attend to. While I have the back of the dash opened up, I figured I would replace the light switch whil
  11. Ok, I got ahold of the local old school IH dealer today, and he actually had a used beyond power plate in stock, for respectable price. He also had the connection to go into the side of the differential housing near the axle, that was new. Now, all I need is a set of loader controls and make something out of this hydraulic line mess, and I should be good to go, unless I'm missing something. Again, a big thank you to everyone who volunteered your time and knowledge, in helping sort out this issue. Take care and enjoy those tractors.
  12. Jimb2: That short pipe on top, circles around and goes into the 3pt hitch control valve.
  13. The upper purple line, just makes a sharp left and ties into the back of one of the valve plates, I don't remember which one without going out and looking at it. The lower purple line comes out the bottom of the outer valve and is currently one of the lines with the quick disconnect going to the loader. That upper line is the one that would not let me get the seat plate off, that is why it has a connector in the middle of it. That was evidently easier than whacking the corner off of the plate. The plates were probably already made. In reading the 504 loader article, I see that they are re
  14. If I was to find a 3 bolt power beyond plate, what would be different about it?
  15. Jimb2: Thank you again for all of your help. In regard to your last post: 1) I basically have this on my 434 and I hate that setup. Yea it works, but. 2) On my levers on the tractor, if you push them clear down, it locks there, if you pull it clear up, it locks there. To be honest, I don't know what this is for. I saw in an earlier post that someone mentioned "float". There are 2 lines currently hooked into it, if I use it for feed and return, is it able to do both at the same time? Ex. lower loader arms and lift bucket at same time. 3) I think I like this option best, but
  16. Jimb2: Ok, here are pictures with the seat panel off. That wasn't too bad a job, if they wouldn't have run a ridged hydraulic line over top of it by the one stud. That corner will be missing at assembly. At least they use captured nuts. Just fyi, I did not have a ground wire under there. The pictures are from each side, and the one shows the two lines that go down over the left side go into to the mcv, I believe that's what it's called, behind the filter.
  17. p.s. I had just replaced the alternator which was all covered with red overspray(tractor has not been repainted), and it was a Delco.
  18. Jimb2: I got to looking at the pictures from shell4s again, and before I thought that line run crosswise under the seat, but looking again, it is running front to back along the dif housing. I went back out and looked up under the seat panel, and if I'm looking at the right thing, mine is not like his. There is nothing along the top of the valves, and that big line you see in the picture, is the one that runs to the hyd pressure switch, and then runs up under the battery box somewhere. I don't see any lines running up over the top of the valves.
  19. Yes, I had read that, you had highlighted it in an earlier post. I was originally hoping to go with the other plate, but trying to find one, in some what reasonable price may be a bit difficult. I already have a lot of the tin off, but wasn't planning on taking the seat plate off yet, but we'll go at it. It probably needs a bath anyway.?
  20. The attached photo shows 2 hard lines that come out of a manifold on the back of the valve unit. These 2 lines wrap around the back of the seat and connect into the side of the differential housing on the left side. There is another hard line that you see to the left, this comes from the front of the seat and has the hydraulic pressure switch attached to it. There are 2 lines that run from under the valve unit closest to the dif housing that go back to the rear auxiliary connections. I cannot see up around the top of it, I will have to remove more sheet metal tomorrow. Not trying to chang
  21. Jimb2: I live in the states. I looked for a "built in" stamp but did not find anything. The outer side cover on the valve housings is not rectangular shaped like your picture, rather a "T" shape with 3 bolts holding it on. In regard to the line, I believe so, I don't have time to go back out and look at it right now, but I have included a picture that I believe is the one you are asking about. There are 2 hard lines coming from the top of the valve closest to the tranny housing that go back to my rear hookup's. I will go look at it later this evening. This picture is with me lying un
  22. Here are the two tags I had found earlier. I will have to look for more tomorrow.
  23. Thank you for the reply's, here are answers to your questions. 1) I don't know model number, there is a sticker on the side, and hopefully I will be able to include a couple of pictures. 2) Yes, cylinders are dual acting 3) I plan to use remote outlets for pull brush hog 4) No, nothing on serial number plate but 574 and serial number 5) No cab Jeff-C-IL: I am no expert on this by no means, but it's interesting that the smaller valve has a higher max psi and relief valve setting than the larger one. According to tractor data, which is obviously may not be up to dat
  24. OK, I have done more digging, and I have come up with this: "THIS INFO APPLIES TO IH 74, 84 SERIES AND CASEIH 85 SERIES PRIOR TO SERIAL NUMBER 18001: TO INSTALL POWER BEYOND ON 74 SERIES PRIOR TO SERIAL NUMBER 113209 USE 470603R4 COVER SERIAL NUMBER 113210 AND AFTER USE THE 123082C1 COVER TO INSTALL A POWER BEYOND FOR LOADER OR OTHER AUXIIARY FUNCTIONS REPLACE THE END COVER 123104C1 ON THE HYDRAULIC VALVE BANK WITH PART NUMBER 123082C1 WHICH IS A POWER BEYOND COVER. FOR 85 SERIES ABOVE THE SERIAL NUMBER 18001 THE POWER BEYOND IS BUILT INTO THE VALVE BANK ALREADY TO INSTALL
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