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About Zackridesred

  • Birthday 12/18/1986

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    Fabrication, heavy equipment, race cars/street cars, motorcycles/dirtbikes,

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  1. Thank you for the picture, looks like this is placing the hub about 1" or so inside of the wheel? I think this is the exact arrangements I will end up using on mine, this should set the front width at about 81-82" Equipmentjunkie thanks for the info, once I'm ready to start working on the loader I'll send you a PM about the adapters
  2. I painted the front wheels and got one side on the tractor. This is just a quick spray paint job, mainly for proof of concept of the color scheme. I used the magic IH red rattle cans from tractor supply for the wheel centers, I like the color but man does that stuff take forever to dry. Once I get more serious about painting I will blast, prime and spray a single stage enamel. I may have to widen the track width of the front, I have it set just under 80" with the outside of the wheel being flush with the planetary gear box on the axle. Looks like the tires are going to be really close to or touch the loader frame. Trying to keep the tires inside the width of a 84" bucket. The front width was set to 86" before with a 72" bucket, not what I would consider ideal On a side note, has anyone in history ever used thread anti-seize without getting it all over everything??
  3. 100% agreed, but I can't pass up an opportunity to jest about other brands. I'm not a fan of the ketchup and mustard look of a red body with yellow wheels so these will get painted, I'll probably paint the rears to match
  4. Ordered a new pump and pilot relief valve earlier this week from Bates Corp, they were super helpful over the phone and were the only reasonably price place I could find for a new NOT Chinese made pump. It's difficult to make out in the pictures but on closer inspection the pilot relief valve had quite a bit of wear and the seat had some chipping, looks very similar to what I have seen when a valve flutters from being oversized/too little flow. Hopefully this is the last of the damage I find from the clogged filter intake screen. I found a steal of a deal on a set of front tires and wheels. The original rims need quite a bit of work so they will go into the project pile for now. The new wheels will need to be painted something other than "drain your bank account yellow" before they are put on. Don't worry, I won't engage the front axle until I find matching 460/85r30 tires for the rear
  5. Interesting, maybe this is true for light duty skid steer brackets or the pre made adaptors for farm tractors? They use the same system on 100hp, 12,000lb track loaders without any longevity issues, I can't think of a more punishing environment than concrete demo with that type of machine and they seem to hold up ok there. But it does sound like the euro set-up is stronger still Thanks for the input, I am leaning global/euro the more I look into it and the more feedback I get. I don't have any experience with the Euro setup but I do have a lot of experience with the skid steer equipment so I was initially thinking that would be the way to go.
  6. Disassembled the MCV. Everything looked good except for the spring for the oil cooler bypass valve, it broke into a few pieces. The flow divider valve moved freely as well as the main relief valve, some signs of wear but minimal. Now to order all new filters, O-rings, springs and gaskets. I looked at the parking brake, the brake band looks to still have friction material but not much (maybe 1/16") and the drum looks to be ok. I'm going to get a better look before I put everything back together.
  7. Thank you for pointing that out, it would be unfortunate if I missed the 2nd filter. The second filter and screen looked to be in good shape so I didn't post any pictures. Though there was an unsettling amount of "glitter" in the hydraulic oil. I'll be looking at the parking brake tomorrow to see if that was the cause, looked like some brass/bronze to me so we'll see. I'm going to start trying to locate a new pump next week, hopefully I can come up with a quality pump
  8. Now for some real carnage. I was curious how the brand new pump that had shavings in the pressure port looked inside. All the pictures below are from a never installed pump, not the pump that came off the Hydro 84 Total garbage as you can see. On the positive side, the gears appear do be hardened at least. . .
  9. I believe I found the cause of the hydraulic issues, I haven't opened up the MCV yet but I have it on the bench. The screen for the MCV filter was caked full of junk, looks like the previous owner replaced the filter but forgot to clean the screen. I pulled the hydraulic pump apart to inspect it and see if it needed to be replaced or if it was still in good shape Pump is shot, looks to me that it was cavitating and tried to eat itself apart. The main shaft cracked at the keyway, probably vibration from cavitating or it tried to seize. It's a bummer, it's a genuine IH pump and it looked like it was a real quality part
  10. Thanks for the input, the hydraulic hard lines and soft lines both need some work on this loader. Definitely could use some rerouting and other help to avoid chafing the lines
  11. Thanks for the input 495man. I may just get ambitious and slide the loader off without hydraulic power. I think my post was a bit misleading, I was using building a new bucket as an example of how much work the old bucket needs. I agree that a bucket can be bought for much less than one can be custom fabricated for, even if I did it myself. I haven't convinced myself on the skid steer bracket. I'm also considering the euro/global bracket, Definitely a lot more common on a farm tractor loader. I'll look into the HLA buckets.
  12. I'm not certain on if the parking brake works, if they put metal flakes in the oil that could be the cause of the hydraulics not working. The shavings in the picture are from the discharge of a brand new, never installed pump. Fresh out of the box and into my hands, a very good example of buying from the lowest bidder.
  13. Thanks for the input on the loader, it's not surprising it's a common failure point. I think the arms are a bit light in this area, I could see catching the odd concrete seem, rock or root unexpectedly while moving would make short work of this little loader with 6,000lbs+ of momentum behind it. I may cut off the plates and reweld them when I rebush the loader but I would put the plates back on, I think it was a good solution. I am pretty happy with the tractor, I would have loved for it to be a cream puff but like you said with a bit of work it will be good tractor. The ZF axle looks pretty stout, especially being a planetary reduction axle. It's good to hear you have had good experience with them. I'm hoping that with hydrostatic drive it proves to be indestructible (pending any human error that is)
  14. Some more pictures. I have a pretty good hydraulic leak on top of the transmission, I'll be tearing into that this weekend as well as pulling of the MCV and pump. Once I'm in there I'll make a parts list and replace anything questionable. I'm a welder/fabricator by trade but I'm going to retire this bucket, there would be more work repairing this one than building a new bucket. I'm contemplating converting it over to a skid steer quick attach but we will see what I end up doing. The loader arms have has some pretty extensive repair work, at some point it looks like the arms broke just above the cross tube. The cross tube was removed and a 1/2" steel plate was welded in on the inside of the arms from the upper cylinder mount down to the bucket pivot pin, then the cross tube put back in. Looks like that particular repair was professionally done
  15. 495man, I intend on taking the loader and brackets off once I get hydraulic pressure to the loader, it looks like it will definitely make working on the engine a whole lot easier. Plus the loader itself needs work that I'll do when it's off, there are some botched weld repairs and the bushings need to be cut out/replaced as well as the cylinders needing to be resealed. Ksfarmdude, that's a nice, clean looking Hydro A question, the previous owner ordered a new MCV pump. Well it showed up and I don't have the heart to tell him he bought a paper weight. Does anyone have a line on a quality domestic made pump? Preferably a 17gpm pump. I have been looking and they all seem to be made overseas. This is what came out of the pressure side of the pump after taking it out of the box, there where a lot of bigger shavings that I quickly wiped onto a paper towel in disgust. This picture is the second time I wiped the shavings out
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