Jump to content

stuart falkner

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

4 Neutral

About stuart falkner

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Yes sir, I probably will not be here if when breaks again. I learned a lot. Not impressed with many things on it. They are a brute of a tractor and not a heavy fuel user
  2. I think the leakage oil out the end is going back to the sump with the rest of the spool leakage. Most of the people can not understand that all spool valves leak. Their automatic transmssion is full of spool valves and they all are leaking. When the spool is centered there is no pressure build up there. I did not try it but I think you could put your thumb over the hole and stop the leak. I am glad it is over with. It worked out well.
  3. The pin with the o ring still on it is still in there. People have ridiculed the nail but it is what I had that fit the bore. It is difficult to turn something long and thin; I did turn one end to 1/8" and polished it to fit the o ring. When I unscrewed the assy I did not take it apart for fear of losing some of the balls.. It is all still in there. Thanks for your help
  4. It did not work out that way. Your input was valuable. Thank You!
  5. OK here is what I did. I took the spool assy out for at least the 4th time and put the whole thing in my lathe and slightly enlarged the 1/2" hole in the back. Then I took a tap and put a 9/16" NF thread in it. I put a nut on a short bolt and plugged the hole using RTV on the thread. The valve will center but does not latch in due to the wrong spring. The valve works fine otherwise and centers perfectly. NO LEAKS ! I wish I had done this in the beginning. It does not load the system either unless you hold it engaged. Do not thread the bolt in more than the thickness of the end cap or it will
  6. Thank You Sir! That is exactly what I have been dealing with. I had tried to get the left brake shaft out of the tractor to weld it up and turn it back to size. Finally somebody told me it had a flat on it to clear the ring gear and it would require removing the differential ring to get the shaft to slide out. What were they thinking? They could have moved the shaft 1/4" to the front or even made the shaft a little smaller. So they created a nightmare instead.
  7. Thanks for your input. Do you remember if the actuating pin went through this little valve or was the valve mounted on the end of it and does the little valve provide pressure to push the unlatching pin?
  8. Well, J- the Jerk is back again. Do you never get tired?
  9. The spool valve is a different problem. The tube problem is fixed. I do not have access to parts. They are the next state over. If they are still available. Probably not! What is best for you is no concern of mine. If you can not help then leave it alone
  10. More rock chunkers!! There is no way this tractor will ever be in the field again. I had in mind hooking it to a mower. If I can make it operate for a reasonable amount of time without losing all its oil then it is OK. A new valve will cost more than it is worth..All spool valves have leakage but if it is engineered right it will leak back to the reservoir, not on the ground.
  11. Oh dry up! More negative BS. 1955 chevy V8s came from the factory without oil filters.
  12. I think modifications are good if they improve the product or make it easier to work on. There are some people who are going to throw rocks no matter what. On the other hand there are some of the best people in the world doing what they can to help. I will soon be 80 and I grew up in a ford garage, both autos and tractors. I will say for a fact that farmers are the nicest and hardest working people in the world and the easiest to get along with. They understand adversity, they expect it, and will meet it head on. There is something about tilling the soil that is good for people. My hat is off
  • Create New...