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WaldoTD9

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Everything posted by WaldoTD9

  1. That's annoying. The invoice only says, "Kit." Let me see if I can get any more info out of them. I called and spoke to the guy and he said you could either send him the old ones and he could fine replacements OR you could take the measurements of the rod, the groove, and the height and he could get them that way too. He charged me $54 for both packings.
  2. Rodhergott, I have a TD9 with the same setup. I recently had my cylinders overhauled at a hydraulic shop near me. They said the cylinders are pretty simple and replacing the packing and seals was easy. I don't know what they used, but you could give then a call tomorrow and possibly get them to send you the parts. They should remember me since they had a laugh about how old the cylinders were and it was only about a month ago. The shop was Old Dominion Hydraulics in Richmond, VA. (804) 798-4831 Matt
  3. That is what I figured. I like McMaster for their wide array of materials, but they aren't known for being cheap. Then there's the trouble of fabrication I would just as soon avoid. My time is worth more than the $34. PM sent.
  4. Thanks Gene. Already on order from FP Smith. They only wanted $34 and it came with the rivets so I figured that was a decent price. Can you send me the CAD anyway? I will add it to my information file. Matt
  5. Thanks Louie. I'll call FP Smith for a price. I thought about going to McMaster for the friction material, but I didn't know the spec on the thickness or friction coefficient so I thought I would ask here first to see if someone did.
  6. For those following along, I completed the install of my rebuilt steering clutches on my 1945 TD9 on Saturday and tried to go for a drive to test them out. The problem is I can't get it into gear when the engine is running. I thought maybe the engine clutch was frozen but when I shut it down I can turn the input shaft with my hand easily with it in neutral. Then I noticed there is no friction material on the clutch coupling (part #266457R91). Has anyone had new material riveted on or should I just go buy a new one? FP Smith and GG both have them, I think. Thanks
  7. So I figured out what the problem was. The pivot bolt wasn't screwed in far enough so the forks were sitting a little low. Even though it looked like it was in far enough, and the forks pivoted fine, they were not centered vertically on the clutch center line. This made them interfere with the flange bolts ever so slightly. I raised them a little and now there seems to be plenty of clearance. There is no mention of this in the manual and it is interesting how sensitive the clearance is to very small height adjustments. Hope this helps someone else.
  8. Thanks guys. Yes I do have the pivot bolts lined up and installed per the manual with equal distance on the fork bushings, top and bottom. Good to know the throwout bearing is supposed to be installed flush. I was not looking forward to pulling those clutches out again and cutting the bearings off if I had done it wrong. If you all are interested in seeing my work in progress I made a few YouTube videos of it. There are three of them so far. You can start them here:
  9. I do have the service manual but it doesn't say anything about how much clearance there should be or show that specific picture that I could find. Everything is back the way is was when I disassembled it (except with new parts), maybe that is why it didn't turn before.
  10. It is, that is the problem. In that first picture, I have the release fork rotated all the way so the throwout bearing is just touching the spring cup. The problem is I don't see any other way these parts could be installed. From the rear of the tractor (as seen in the picture in my second post) everything looks fine. The forks aren't bent and all the bushings are new, so everything is tight. I just went out an put the frame cover on and installed the bushings where the release forks pass through at the top. Everything lines up fine, but when I look through the inspection holes I can see the forks still almost touching the bearing cap bolts. The only thing I can see that may be wrong is that the throwout bearing ins't wide enough and so the fork has to rotate farther to contact the spring retainer. So I guess the question is: Should the rear of the throwout bearing rest against the release collar or should there be a space? When I took the clutches apart both bearings were flush against the release collars. I had to replace one bearing and the new one was VERY difficult to press on. Makes me think maybe it shouldn't go on that far? Thanks for the help.
  11. In what way? That looks pretty much how mine is. I took my picture from the back side of the yoke looking down. I can't tell from the picture in the service manual how much space there should be and it doesn't give any indication
  12. Okay gentlemen, I have another question for you. I've reinstalled the clutches on my 1945 TD9 and put the release forks back in place. They move freely, but it doesn't seem like there is enough room for them to rotate far enough to compress the clutch spring. I know you don't need to compress the spring very much, but it just looks like the yoke is going to hit the bolts on the bearing cap before it does anything. It may be that since I haven't installed the frame cover yet the yokes aren't really sitting in their proper position? It looks like some previous owner had a similar concern and ground away some of the fork. You can see that in the picture. So how much space should I have between the fork and the bearing cap bolts at this point? I don't want to get this thing all the way back together just to find something isn't right. Here are a couple pictures to show you what I'm talking about.
  13. That would drive me NUTS. I ended up rebuilding the lost material on the teeth with my welder and cleaning the whole gear up with a hand grinder and files. I replaced the bearings and re-installed. I plan on pulling the final drives apart in a few years to fix some other problems so it should hold up till then.
  14. Interesting. It is a 12 tooth. One of the salvage yards did have a 13 tooth gear, but since I don't even know the part number on that one (it doesn't show up in the parts manual), I wouldn't want to waste the time in getting it sent to me and then it doesn't work. I won't be doing a lot of hard work with this machine, but I do like things to work as they should, at least if it doesn't cost me a fortune. That is why I started working on rehabilitating the gear I have. Even if I get a better one at least I will have a spare, and almost anything will be better than what was in there.
  15. Thanks all. I found two sources so far that have good used ones. Just comparing prices. They're not cheap. I'm also playing around with rebuilding the teeth with my welder. The gear is steel, not iron, so does take a weld.
  16. Thanks. I am waiting for the west coast to open so I can start calling places out there. Not much on the east coast that I am aware of.
  17. Hardtail, General Gear was my first stop. I've gotten lots of parts from him already, but he said he has never had a narrow track TD-9 on his lot and only one TD-6 in all his years. That's very interesting. I asked him if he knew how many TD-9s were made wide and narrow but he didn't know.
  18. Does anyone out there have a Sprocket Drive Pinion (part # 64487DA) sitting around for a non-wide track 1945 TD9? One of mine is in bad shape. Or if you can point me to a yard that may have one. I was told the standard (non-wide) track model is more rare so I am hoping someone here can point me in the right direction.
  19. Thanks for the offer Gene. I appreciate it. Sometimes I lack patience. In this case I ordered new bearings the day I pulled them. I found them on Ebay for less than the cost of wheel bearings for my car, so I figured that was a decent deal. The hardest part was finding the cross reference number. I'm continually pleased to find IH used standard, off the shelf sizes for many parts. Makes restoration much easier.
  20. Thanks Gene. I though it should be an interference fit on the pinion based on general bearing installation practice but wasn't sure. I'll have to see how my new bearings fit on the pinion when they arrive. The ones in there were REALLY old. They were all marked International Harvester. When did IH stop making these bearings? One side was so loose the inner race could move sideways a good 1/16". The other side was so gunked up I couldn't turn it by hand even after soaking it overnight in de-greaser.
  21. Has anyone out there rebuilt the final drive on a TD9 or TD6? I have a 1945 model TD9 I am looking for information on the bearings for the sprocket drive pinion (items 6,7, and 9 in the sprocket drive diagram). Specifically I wanted to know if the bearings are supposed to be installed with a press fit in the carrier, press fit on the pinion gear, both or neither? The service manual does not mention pressing the bearing in that I could find. I pulled out my old bearings and 3 of the 4 (doing both sides) did not have any interference fit at all. Seemed a little sketchy. Thanks, Matt
  22. Well, no luck at FP Smith and I really don't want to waste a whole lot of effort on this. Guess I'll JB weld it and then Red Kote. That will keep the rest of the bottom protected from any further deterioration. Thank you all for the help. There will be more questions.
  23. Thanks, I'll do that. I was trying to avoid the JB Weld if I could.
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