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WaldoTD9

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    Male
  • Location
    Stafford, VA
  • Interests
    1945 TD-9 with BE blade

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  1. Thanks. It was "fun." It sure was a lot cheaper and easier than trying to switch over to an IH pump and injectors. It also gave me some more experience on my lathe making the fittings and such so now I'll know how if I need to tackle something like this in the future. By the way, I now have a pop tester that I hope I will never have to use again if someone else needs one. I'd sell it or loan it if someone has a need.
  2. As promised, here is a link to the video of the pump rebuild and test. Hopefully someone here will find it useful. https://youtu.be/Pz7XOnQGvDU
  3. That is good info. I know on my Ford 555 loader I can't climb that particular hill in 4th so I needed some comparison. I really want to get that thing out and do some work with it but there is always some other distraction, isn't there.
  4. If you had it running on a stand then what is your concern? It shouldn't work any differently once installed. The injectors don't care what type of pump they are hooked up to as long as it provides the correct pressure. Those are the injectors I have and should open at 700 to 750 psi.
  5. So I got her up and running today. No issues, other than getting the fuel lines to seal.😒 It has a lot more power. I was actually able to get it going in 5th gear which I couldn't do before. Before, it would just stall out on me if i tried. I'll tell you, that thing cruising along in 5th gear is quite a ride. I didn't have time to do any real work with it other than make quick work of a 6" pine tree. It did stall on me trying to go up hill in 3rd gear. I don't know how much power it is supposed to have, and after 76 year, what should I expect? Overall, it was certainly worth the effort. At least now I can expect to do some work with it. Once I am finished compiling all my videos into one I will post it and provide the link here.
  6. Thank you all for the kind words. If my adventures can help someone else out there figure out how to fix their machine, it makes it all worth it. I was hoping to take it for a test drive today, but by the time I got everything back together it was dark. I also checked and adjusted intake and exhaust valves (which were also way off) while I had the hood off. I'll fire it up tomorrow and let you all know how it goes. Fingers crossed. If anyone needs help doing something like this on their machine and need information, don't hesitate to ask. On a related note, it's irritating that you can't find a local shop that will do something that seems so simple. I know they have to make a buck, but does it really require that much more specialized equipment to run one of these pumps on a stand?
  7. I got my pump all back together, which was not that difficult. I made all new paper gaskets out of the readily available FelPro rubberized gasket material available at most auto part stores and online. The one lip seal for the camshaft seal was easy to source from McMaster. The biggest unknown was, would it work. It actually didn't take me that long to put together a test bench. I was going to pull the motor off my Craftsman table saw so I wouldn't have to buy a new motor just for this single use, but then a friend of mine suggested I just leave it in place and use the table saw table to mount everything to. Genius. All I had to do was get the 3500 RPM table saw motor down to the 550 RPM to drive the pump called for in the manual. Luckily, I was able to do this with two pulley reductions. Again, I just ordered four new V-belt pulleys from McMaster to step it down. I went 1.5" to 4" (motor to blade arbor) and 1.5" to 4.5" (blade arbor to pump). I should have used two 4.5" pulleys because my final pump speed was about 650 RPM under load. I was able to get that down to ~550 by raising the blade arbor so the belt would loosen and slip a little. It worked great. I ran the pump at the original settings it had when I pulled it off the tractor and saw why I was having power issues right away. I was getting less than half the fuel delivered I was supposed to. I adjusted the plungers (a lot) and got them all to consistently deliver the 48 ml required. I ran the test four times to be certain I got it right. Now I can't wait to get the pump and injectors back on the tractor to see how it will run now. Here is a picture of my setup. I also took a bunch of video I will compile and post to YouTube if anyone wants to attempt this themselves. The hardest part was actually making all the fittings and lines. Since the pump and injectors use nonstandard fittings I had to make them all from scratch on my lathe. They turned out well, it just took some time. I didn't spend more than a couple hundred dollars to do this whole job (rebuild injectors, rebuild pump, construct test bench).
  8. I was finally able to get my injectors back together in a manner that they opened at the proper pressure and were within specs on holding pressure and leakage. Just in case anyone else plans on rebuilding their injectors, it isn't hard, but it is tedious and it may take MANY tries to get the valve to seal. At first I tried lapping the valve and seat together and that would not work even though I had very very fine lapping paste. After doing some research on valve lapping (most of the information is on car engine valves) I discovered that you can't get the valve to seal by lapping it. So I had to "regrind" the valve and seat by using very fine sandpaper (400-1500). I put the valve stem in my lathe, spun it at 300 rpm, wrapped the sandpaper around a 1-2-3 block, and held it against the valve sealing surface. Then I did the same thing on the valve seat but used a deburring tool to get the proper angle on the seat. The seat was easy, the valve was more difficult to get nice and flat. They are pretty small. I ground the valve till I got a nice consistent contact ring indicated by putting layout dye on the valve and spinning it lightly against the seat. I did all four valves this way. Now I am in the process of reassembling my pump which I will test before it goes back on the tractor.
  9. Here is a picture of all the internal parts of my pump all cleaned up and ready to reassemble. Everything looks to be in good shape.
  10. The top is threaded into the body. You can disassemble it yourself no problem and clean it. The problem is you can't test it without a pop tester.
  11. I will upload some pictures later. I am also going to post a video of the rebuild on YouTube.
  12. bcf180, Mine is the top one. The fitting threads for the fuel line on mine are 5/8-18. What is wrong with your injector? I've disassembled most of mine and there is not much to them to go bad. As for my injection pump, it should be good to go once I put it back together and set it up. It was pretty dirty on the inside and I could tell when I pulled it apart that the plungers were not all set the same. I have the materials to build my test bench and injection lines. I also bought a pop tester to set up my injectors. I just need to make the lines.
  13. No. I guess I should have asked if anyone else on here had their own test stand that was willing to set up my Bosch pump or knew anyone that did. Every place I have called that is supposed to be able to help with these pumps has stopped doing it. Maybe they still do the IH pumps, I don't know. One place I talked to said it would cost a few hundred dollars just to get the adaptor to hook up a different pump to his machine.
  14. Well, I haven't found anything wrong with my pump yet, but the search continues. Maybe it just needs a good cleaning and calibration. Whichever direction I go it is going to cost me. Even if I got an IH pump it would still need to be calibrated on a stand so I figure I'm not wasting my time building one.
  15. Yes, there is, plenty. It shouldn't be too hard to build a bench.
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