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Everything posted by IHRedRyan

  1. Looks awesome - very impressive. Will you share your technique?
  2. Thanks for advice guys. I'll let you know if I figure it out.
  3. I had adjusted them - i adjusted them to .020 when cam has them open as per my manual. Maybe angle of picture makes it look a bit wonky. I'll triple check them and replace the condenser.
  4. It was intact when running - then i gently pulled back the breaker arm to take a look at the contacts and the spring snapped. It's been very cold here and it's stored inside but not in a heated building.
  5. Haven't replaced the coil - existing one doesn't require resistor
  6. I did replace both sides of the contact set. I did not replace the condenser - the old breaker arm was physically broke (spring snapped) which is why I opted to replace it. But I figured the existing condenser would be okay. Are you saying that when you replace the contacts you should always replace the condenser too?
  7. Thanks for info on grease. Thinking about it now i'm wondering if i didn't tighten the little nut (circled in picture) enough - i fought with it for a while to get it to thread on to the little stud in such a tight space and now i can't remember if I ever tightened with a wrench ... stupid but i'd be okay if that's all it is Maybe it's not getting consistent connection with coil and that's causing problem. I got the new breaker arm right from CIH but i did note "made in china". I assume that's how they all are these days (except NOS of course) and other guys have had luck with them?
  8. I replaced the wires and distributor cap - i went to adjust the points and decided to replace the breaker arm as well. I put a set of new Autolite 3116 plugs in and tuned the carb a bit and the tractor ran better than it ever has... that was Saturday. Today i started it up and it ran good for ten minutes - i just let it sit in the driveway and warm up - then all the sudden it started running much worse than it ever has before. I took the rotor back off and inspected the points again - i turned the engine over a few times a noticed that i'm getting spark between the cam and the breaker arm , shouldn't the spark be between the points themselves ? Looking at my manual - it says to pack some "magneto grease" in the "back of the breaker arm rubbing block" I didn't do this when I installed the new one - what type of grease should I use and where exactly does it go ? I have attached short video of it running - sorry i didn't take longer one but I wanted to limp it back inside for fear that it would stop running.
  9. Thanks for replies, I figured it was a bit light for the job - i'll have to give some more though to a PTO splitter. It's an '55 300U with the clutch pedal setup that makes your calve burn after a while and it would be nice to have adequate hydraulic power for a regular splitter.. But alas the tractor has sentimental value and upgrading to something like a 504 Utility isn't in the budget anyway - it's very nimble in the bush and start's every time so i'll suck it up and make it work.
  10. I am trying to decide if the stock hydraulic system on my 300 Utility is strong enough for a 3 point wood splitter. It has the IH pump (not the Pesco). It's not something that would be used everyday by any means ... maybe 10 days a year to split wood for ourselves. We do usually split some good sized maple rounds (currently rent a splitter with independent engine) so I do want it to be able to handle a decent load. Looking for opinions and if other guys have had success running splitters. I have also considered a PTO powered splitter but there's barely any used ones around and they're understandably more expensive.
  11. I am pretty confident that Parts Catalog #PO-6 is the one you need J. Maybe someone has one and could confirm. There's one sitting on ebay now too - i'll respect the forum rules and won't post the link, i just googled "ih PO-6 book"
  12. I had a Mavic Pro from 2017-2019 with all the fancy features - wasn't using it enough so I sold it - but then I missed having a drone. Anyway - that's where I got my RC experience. I use IMovie too ... my get around on the music is googling "Youtube to Mp3" - search up a song on youtube and copy paste the link into one of these sites - it lets you download an mp3 for free. Youtube will spit back some songs that have copyrights - but if you youtube an instrumental cover it usually lets you post it without issue. This is the site I use .. some others are a bit sketchy. https://ytmp3.cc/en13/ As for the MX ... one of the newer pieces or iron on the farm so I don't think it'll be going anywhere anytime soon. (My uncle's not mine anyway ) Pair of 1486s have been the workhorses for years - the MX110 and MXU135 have taken the load off their shoulders somewhat... 886 and pair of 806s do the small jobs - older restored stuff around just for fun. Restored 1466 Blackstripe is my uncle's baby - never sees the winter but have used it to plant beans a few years. Oh... and green combine gets the job done... has been around for years and was the right price at the right time.
  13. In my opinion... Depends what you're planning on using it for. I was a cabinet maker for several years and the hand held routers were always very handy for relatively small roundovers, chamfers etc. These light duty tasks can be done with a medium price bit and last quite a while. If you're planning to try to use it for cutting dados/ rabbits then I would go with a top quality bit to give your router a fighting chance - you'd have to take it slow with pretty shallow passes even still. We had several of those sets at the shop where i worked and most of them were never used... A couple different sizes of roundover , a chamfer, and flush trims were just about all your ever needed (we cut dados etc. on a designated table saw).
  14. I also bought a dji mavic mini last fall and have had a great experience with it. Really good value for the price point - great video quality and very good battery life considering its size. I agree that the deal with the extra batteries and case is the way to go. My dad showed some interest in it - and I got him flying it without issue after a couple hours of practise. You do need both hands most of the time to operate so a bit tricky if you're trying to take video of yourself on a tractor - some of the higher price point drones ($1000+) have sensors that allow them to lock onto an object (like a tractor) and follow you around keeping you in the centre of the shot without you touching the remote- they also have obstacle avoidance so they won't fly into a tree while they're chasing you . The mavic mini doesn't have either of these features but like i said - it's good value for what it does have. Here's some video I took with the drone ... not a good corn crop in southern Ontario last fall If you have any more questions if you're thinking about getting one - happy to answer.
  15. Yes the domestic baltic birch ply is a dream to work with compared to the offshore sh*t - agreed dovetails totally unnecessary for a tool box lol Had a mechanical dovetailing machine at work where you just threw the drawer sides in , lined them up with pneumatic clamps and pressed go - pretty slick. Good luck with the project
  16. I see you're a fellow Ontario man, so giving a lead on a Canadian company will be helpful on here for a change! I was a cabinet maker for a number of years and we always used Berenson full extension ball bearing drawer slides. Not crazy in price from what i can remember - high quality and they last, easy to install too. Plywood is a good call, if you're going to be loading these drawers up pretty heavy i would recommend cutting cutting a dado (slot) for your bottoms to slide into, adds a lot of strength - just my two cents https://www.berenson.ca/products/INCT02-DRAWER SLIDES/INCT02-SLIDES/INCT02-BALL BEARING SLIDES/INCT01-2000 SERIES FULL EXTENSION SLIDES.aspx
  17. My family has 20 acres of pretty dense bush, nice trail loop takes about 20 minutes to walk had become very over grown but finally got it cleaned back up and widened a bit a few years ago. Always enjoy being in the bush - not a hunter myself but lots of wild turkey and deer always around. Still have a big wood stove in the basement so only kick the furnace on when really need it - 300U with underslung exhaust is perfect nimble little tractor for hauling firewood.
  18. Oh ya it's the same side isn't it. I should have looked a little closer. Thanks Would be a nice little baler to have some fun with - not going to keep my hopes up on finding one though.
  19. Wow, awesome photos, thanks! Makes more sense why it was behind such a small tractor now with its own engine. Couldn't see that in the photo i had. It's a Canadian catalogue it was advertised in so i guess they must have imported some here.
  20. This little Baler is advertised in the 1960 Farmer's Catalogue. Marketed to the "Small Acreage Farmer" but i'm surprised to see it behind something as small as a Super A (i also find it interesting that it's pictured behind a Super A as late as 1960 and not a 140). Does anybody have any info on these little guys? I can only find one picture online and no information anywhere.
  21. Interesting that my 1960 Farmer's Catalogue doesn't mention a 6 bottom No. 70 but does advertise the International 660 as the "Most Rugged Full 6 Plow Tractor in the World".
  22. Great experience for me ordering to Canada from ebay in the past - i will go directly through their website in the future. I agree - high quality & fair prices Parts catalogs for Farmall M and 300U , with some old binders found a good use for those stickers that come with stuff from IHGEAR...
  23. Well here is the likely culprit, the terminal (or whatever you want to call it) was cracked and loose on the end of the wire for #2 cylinder. I will crimp a new terminal onto the wire and if that doesn't help i'll just make up a new wire all together. I agree carb needs some tuning as well.
  24. Haven't had the chance to give it anymore attention, hopefully next few days. I'll try a number of things - removing muffler to see if that makes a difference, brand new plugs sounds like a good idea (is 3116 the autolite to get ?) and if neither of those helps i'll keep looking at ignition. Thanks to everyone.
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