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    Ontario, Canada
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    All tractors ... that are IH Red , Vintage Advertising, Woodworking

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IHRedRyan's Achievements

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  1. There’s a few of us young guys that will try to keep the torch burning. Sadly I don’t think it’ll be nearly as big. By the time I’m an old man a Letter Series Tractor will be well over 100 years old. They’ll be a lot to try to save from going to scrap I would guess.
  2. My uncle picked one up a few years ago, also with a Coleman FWA, someone did it up as a blackstripe but it’s not correct. He would like to restore it eventually back to original. For now it’s on feed wagon duty and the hydro makes it pretty handy for that. My understanding is that the FWA was added by a dealer at some point.
  3. Still making noise with belts lubed up, took hood off and I’m pretty confident it’s coming from manifold. Any tips for locating the leak ?
  4. Thanks for the ideas, I'll give the belts some more attention to start.
  5. When we went to start up the M this spring it had a new noise. Nothing when you first start it, but when it warms up after ten minutes or so it starts to whine/squeal. If you throttle back and let the tractor idle you can hear it slow down (so seems to me it's coming from something rotating) and then go away all together. To my ear, it's louder on the carb side of the engine and is loudest at the top front area. I gave the water pump some grease. The fan belt and the smaller belt to the generator are tight and in good shape. Rebuilt the generator last year and it's not more than warm to the touch after the tractor has been running. Other than towing some gravity wagons around the tractor doesn't see any work, just riding around the property. No sign of this noise in the fall when it was put away for the winter. I'm looking for ideas! Video attached picks up some wind noise from the fan but you can still hear the whine pretty clearly.
  6. Looking at it more closely it says there were two possible drag link configurations. The illustrated ones were made by Columbus Auto Parts and the part number for the rear drag link is 363 161 R92 The other configuration, which i'm guessing is yours was made by O and S Bearing and MFG. Co. , the part number for that rear drag link is 365 853 R91 When i looked that number up on Steiner, they have part # ABC265 listed to replace both, but it's pretty clear from the picture that its the same part you bought, not the one you're looking for. I've only ever replaced front tie rod ends on my 300U , hopefully someone else can help.
  7. Parts Catalog seems to show the 20 - 30 degree which must be why the replacements you got are like that , are your front tie rod ends straight like the ones in diagram?
  8. McCormick No. 50 - Picture from 1960 Farmer's catalogue
  9. I would ask again or maybe this thread could be moved over in the General Forum, probably catch more attention and get more help over there.
  10. Happy to report that i swapped in a different new breaker arm that i got through Napa and it fired right up and ran smooth. I suppose it could very well have been made in the same factory as the one i got from CIH but who knows, i guess i had a bad breaker arm. The little "pop" or "miss" in the exhaust (the reason I started this thread in the first place) has completely gone away. I adjusted the carb a bit more and am happy with how it's running. Thanks to everyone who chipped in advice.
  11. If it it the choke spring it goes in this hole (circled in picture) in behind the lever. There should be a stainless steel ball that goes in on top of the spring and it aligns with an indentation on the back of the lever so it "clicks" in place and stays open. If this is the correct spring and you've lost the ball the correct size is a 3/16" diameter. To my knowledge nothing special about it as long as it's the correct size and i know you can get a package of 100 from a place like Fastenal for less than 10 bucks. Then you'll have 99 spares ...
  12. Looks awesome - very impressive. Will you share your technique?
  13. Thanks for advice guys. I'll let you know if I figure it out.
  14. I had adjusted them - i adjusted them to .020 when cam has them open as per my manual. Maybe angle of picture makes it look a bit wonky. I'll triple check them and replace the condenser.
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