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IHRedRyan

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About IHRedRyan

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Ontario, Canada
  • Interests
    Farmall M , Farmall Super C , 300 Utility , Vintage Advertising

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  1. If it it the choke spring it goes in this hole (circled in picture) in behind the lever. There should be a stainless steel ball that goes in on top of the spring and it aligns with an indentation on the back of the lever so it "clicks" in place and stays open. If this is the correct spring and you've lost the ball the correct size is a 3/16" diameter. To my knowledge nothing special about it as long as it's the correct size and i know you can get a package of 100 from a place like Fastenal for less than 10 bucks. Then you'll have 99 spares ...
  2. Looks awesome - very impressive. Will you share your technique?
  3. Thanks for advice guys. I'll let you know if I figure it out.
  4. I had adjusted them - i adjusted them to .020 when cam has them open as per my manual. Maybe angle of picture makes it look a bit wonky. I'll triple check them and replace the condenser.
  5. It was intact when running - then i gently pulled back the breaker arm to take a look at the contacts and the spring snapped. It's been very cold here and it's stored inside but not in a heated building.
  6. Haven't replaced the coil - existing one doesn't require resistor
  7. I did replace both sides of the contact set. I did not replace the condenser - the old breaker arm was physically broke (spring snapped) which is why I opted to replace it. But I figured the existing condenser would be okay. Are you saying that when you replace the contacts you should always replace the condenser too?
  8. Thanks for info on grease. Thinking about it now i'm wondering if i didn't tighten the little nut (circled in picture) enough - i fought with it for a while to get it to thread on to the little stud in such a tight space and now i can't remember if I ever tightened with a wrench ... stupid but i'd be okay if that's all it is Maybe it's not getting consistent connection with coil and that's causing problem. I got the new breaker arm right from CIH but i did note "made in china". I assume that's how they all are these days (except NOS of course) and other guys have had luck with them?
  9. I replaced the wires and distributor cap - i went to adjust the points and decided to replace the breaker arm as well. I put a set of new Autolite 3116 plugs in and tuned the carb a bit and the tractor ran better than it ever has... that was Saturday. Today i started it up and it ran good for ten minutes - i just let it sit in the driveway and warm up - then all the sudden it started running much worse than it ever has before. I took the rotor back off and inspected the points again - i turned the engine over a few times a noticed that i'm getting spark between the cam and the
  10. Thanks for replies, I figured it was a bit light for the job - i'll have to give some more though to a PTO splitter. It's an '55 300U with the clutch pedal setup that makes your calve burn after a while and it would be nice to have adequate hydraulic power for a regular splitter.. But alas the tractor has sentimental value and upgrading to something like a 504 Utility isn't in the budget anyway - it's very nimble in the bush and start's every time so i'll suck it up and make it work.
  11. I am trying to decide if the stock hydraulic system on my 300 Utility is strong enough for a 3 point wood splitter. It has the IH pump (not the Pesco). It's not something that would be used everyday by any means ... maybe 10 days a year to split wood for ourselves. We do usually split some good sized maple rounds (currently rent a splitter with independent engine) so I do want it to be able to handle a decent load. Looking for opinions and if other guys have had success running splitters. I have also considered a PTO powered splitter but there's barely any used ones around and th
  12. I am pretty confident that Parts Catalog #PO-6 is the one you need J. Maybe someone has one and could confirm. There's one sitting on ebay now too - i'll respect the forum rules and won't post the link, i just googled "ih PO-6 book"
  13. I had a Mavic Pro from 2017-2019 with all the fancy features - wasn't using it enough so I sold it - but then I missed having a drone. Anyway - that's where I got my RC experience. I use IMovie too ... my get around on the music is googling "Youtube to Mp3" - search up a song on youtube and copy paste the link into one of these sites - it lets you download an mp3 for free. Youtube will spit back some songs that have copyrights - but if you youtube an instrumental cover it usually lets you post it without issue. This is the site I use .. some others are a bit sketchy. https://ytmp3.cc/en1
  14. In my opinion... Depends what you're planning on using it for. I was a cabinet maker for several years and the hand held routers were always very handy for relatively small roundovers, chamfers etc. These light duty tasks can be done with a medium price bit and last quite a while. If you're planning to try to use it for cutting dados/ rabbits then I would go with a top quality bit to give your router a fighting chance - you'd have to take it slow with pretty shallow passes even still. We had several of those sets at the shop where i worked and most of them were never use
  15. I also bought a dji mavic mini last fall and have had a great experience with it. Really good value for the price point - great video quality and very good battery life considering its size. I agree that the deal with the extra batteries and case is the way to go. My dad showed some interest in it - and I got him flying it without issue after a couple hours of practise. You do need both hands most of the time to operate so a bit tricky if you're trying to take video of yourself on a tractor - some of the higher price point drones ($1000+) have sensors that allow them to lock onto an
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