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Sethb4

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  1. Thanks for all the info. I haven’t looked at the tee jet systems yet but if they are In Line with the lower end raven systems I may just have to do without until I save some more tokens. I’ll do some google searching and see what they run. im still open to purchasing used if anyone upgrades and wants to sell their older system
  2. I’m looking for an entry level GPS setup to use for spraying, tillage, and fertilizer application. not worried about using for planting and can’t afford any of the top of the line new systems I’ve been looking at . We are tending about 100 acres of crop ground and have about 150 acres of hay/pasture we tend. Farming is our second job. I guess I’m curious if anyone on here has an older system they don’t use/need that they want to part with? Would like to have something like a raven cruizer or cruizer ii setup. Not necessarily married to that brand but a similar system that would show pass to pass graphics or even a good light bar system. Would prefer to buy a package deal due to availability of accessories and antennas for some of the older systems. If anyone has a system for sale please let me know.
  3. Thank you to everyone for all the input. Sounds like I have some work ahead of me.
  4. Thank you for the input thus far. It sounds like verifying clutch adjustment is where I need to begin. I've been reviewing the info on this forum about adjusting clutch and my brother has a blue ribbon service manual that i planned to reference also. But before I have even began I have issues.... 1) Hopefully i can deal with this for the short term: It appears the cab mounts are worn and letting the cab sag some. they don' appear broken but the back window skims the top of the fuel cap when trying to open it. Can i adjust the clutch around this issue and fix the cab mounts later? 2) I dont have a lube tellite. I know that the tractor had a light from the factory, but it doesn't ever illuminate now. If i understand correctly i need to determine if this light is operational before clutch adjustment is feasible? As my time permits i'm going to look in to both of these issues with the goal of verifying/setting clutch adjustment; however I'd welcome any advice or tips.
  5. Everyone on this site has bailed me out with my 1086 issues so far, and I appreciate it. I’m gonna need some more guidance though... I have a 1086 that I’ve had for a little over a year. Tractor is supposed to have a new clutch, new pto clutches, and TA has been eliminated. The only thing I’ve done is change the hydraulic filter three times and put new brakes on it. Last spring I put it to work with an 11 shank chisel plow and it seemed to work the tractor pretty hard. After a long day in some hard ground I started smelling clutch. It never slipped that I know of but was definitely burning? * this was the first real work the tractor had done in my possession* Since that day if I work the tractor heavy or if I hold the clutch in for very long as in turning around, hooking up equipment, etc... I get that clutch smell. I can run for hours and not smell anything if I’m not clutching it often or working it hard. I guess my actual question would be where to start investigating this issue. Have had several people tell me the clutch is just out of adjustment but based upon my symptoms I don’t know that makes sense to me? Anyone had similar issues or fixed similar issues for someone? I have some other issues with the tractor hydraulic system I believe but am not sure they would be relative. If Those details aren’t needed for this issue I’ll put them in a separate post a little later. TIA, -Seth
  6. Well I finally took time on a rainy afternoon to jack each side of my 1086 up and check that the wheels will turn free. Both sides checked out ok with the tractor running and not running. I also inspected my pedal assembly again and it seems fine. I guess my only remaining brake concern after this is how to get my brake assemblies sealed good and get the leaks stopped.... When i reinstalled my piston and drum I used permatex 518 anaerobic gasket eliminator to seal between the drum and the piston; however I didn’t put any sealer on the back side. I couldn’t figure out how I would get sealant between all the shim plates the piston plate and the diff housing. I also couldn’t see any evidence of sealant being useD on any of that before and it was leak free so I decided maybe the shim plates would seal it up. Now after using the tractor I think it is leaking from there and could possibly even be leaking between the drum and piston. Before I tear that all back down and attempt to reseal does anyone on here have any tricks/advice from experience with this? Thanks in advance! -Seth
  7. Thanks for the insight. I’ll definitely have to jack the tractor up and try spinning the wheels on each side. I did flip the 5th plate from the outside to catch the wear sensor; however I didn’t take time to adjust for the new brake stack up. I have no indicator lights working in the dash except the occasional low water light so I have a ton of investigation to do on the wiring. I’m thinking bad connections in the das or bad grounds to track down. I did use the permeated equivalent of loctite 515 as a dealer but I only put it on the brake drum side. I’m thinking I might have needed some on the diff housing side. I have no idea on the history of the brakes on the tractor because I just bought it in December, supposed to have always been a good tractor.... I’ll look into these things and keep monitoring as I use the tractor a little. Thanks for the help
  8. I'm back again looking for some input from the knowledgeable people on this forum! The 1086 from my previous posts is giving me some brake trouble. Initially the brakes were "grabby" and they also didn't work immediately when pushing the pedal (which i believed was leaking orings). But i had no intentions of working on the brakes as of yet since they worked..... I took the tractor on a 5 mile trip to pick up my grandfather's chisel plow and about halfway through the trip i could smell the brakes. Once i arrived at my destination i got out and felt of the drums and they were smoking hot. With this info here is what i have done in attempts to fix: 1) Bled the brakes --> No improvement 2) Removed brake lines with tractor running to see if brake valve was leaking --> Didn't see any fluid leaking from lines 3) Checked brake pedals where they connect to the valve --> Connection seems free and pin rotates freely in spool 4)Took RH side brakes off to inspect and found a warped disc and warp plate. Decided to rebuild brakes.....Pulled off the LH side and all the friction material was gone from the discs. This side also had one warped disc. Proceeded with rebuild. All new discs and orings installed on the LH side. On the Rh side i replaced the bent disc and plate with used ones that were not bent and also installed new orings. Initially i thought my problems were solved. The brakes are working much better and aren't getting nearly as hot. They are still a little grabby on the road though. I've put about 10 hrs on the tractor since doing this and i am still smelling brakes a lot of the time and the drums are still getting very warm. Not so hot that they will burn you, but hot enough it is very uncomfortable to touch them longer than a few seconds. Is this common for a tractor with new discs and plates? Do they have to wear in? Did i miss something when doing my brake job? Is my brake valve leaking by just slowly enough that i don't see fluid being pushed through the brake lines? I'm losing some hydraulic fluid between the the flange on the brake piston/shim plates/differential housing so i'm probably going to pull each side back off and try to determine how to seal that up. i believe the service manual said to put some gasket eliminator between the diff housing and shims but there wasn't any when we took it apart so we didn't apply any when re-installing. Anyhow i wanted to get some opinions and direction from the member here before proceeding. Other than replacing the brake valve i'm stumped! at $400.00 for that gem i want to ask some experts before pulling the trigger. thanks, -Seth
  9. Well I’ve been working on the old gorl this weekend. Here is what was done: drained hydraulic oil and found it actually had hy-Tran in it. So I changed the hydraulic filter and filled it to full. When changing the filter i noticed the filter cover was flattened on the bottom and was no longer round. So I replaced it with a good one. The filter change and a new filter cover fixed my hitch issues; however I still had a lot of bubbles on the dip stick. So we decided to try the over filling theory. So far the hydraulics are working well. I’ll update if there are any changes thanks for all of the guidance! New project is to get the air working
  10. Thanks to all of you for the input thus far. I really do appreciate it. This gives me several avenues to investigate systematically. I have to do my homework. I’ll check the remotes and do a filter change this weekend and report back. I know I’m a little slow with the feedback but I don’t have a chance to work on it every day right now.
  11. I forgot to mention also that when the tractor is running there is a lot of foam on the dipstick from cavitation. Is this an indicator that there is most likely a suction leak? It was mentioned that the seal on the tube between the pump and the filter maybe leaking. Can this be tackled from the filter side or is it necessary to pull the pump? Trying to organize how to approach resolving my issues with limited time to actually work on the tractor. I still need to verify if the remotes are operational, hopefully get that done this week.
  12. The tractor does have enough oil in it. I’ll have to verify if the remotes are working and then give some more details. Thanks for the advice this far
  13. I have a 1086 with 3pt issues and I m seeking advice on where to start. The 3pt will raise when you first crank the tractor (lift leaks down with tractor shut off). After the lift is raised, if you lower it, it won t raise again. If you leave the tractor running and the lever in the raised position sometimes it eventually raises back up after several minutes. Another issue with the 3pt hitch is that when it is raised it is very spongy. I can apply my body weight to it and it will lower a few inches, remove the weight and it comes back to the original position. Has anyone had either of these issues? Any ideas where my issue may be? The tractor originally had the PPH system but it appears it has been converted from a piston pump to a gear drive pump already. The PTO turns on but I ve never put it under a load, I also haven t tried the remotes yet to confirm if they work. The tractor is supposed to have a new clutch and new PTO clutches installed. I just bought the tractor in December, all fluids and filters were changed before I purchased. When I went to look at the tractor the hitch was functioning correctly but it did have the "spongy" condition. Any help/ideas much appreciated!
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