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Brian S

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  1. Ok good news and bad news. Good news is I found enough fitting to get me plumbed in to the correct port so I’ll reverify my pressures again. The bad news, I pulled the jumper tubes. Bottom two seemed fine. The top one I played **** with to get out. The oring that seats into the TA is a little tore up, not sure if it’s from installation or pulling it back out. I should have another one around here and I’ll stick it back together.
  2. Noted, I was misinformed there. Learning more as I go. Much appreciated
  3. The one with the pressure relief valve stuck up in it then?
  4. Ok guys, So I got all the lines expect the ones to and from the oil cooler capped off this morning. Just fired it back up and let it run at 1500 rpm for a half hour or so. Clutch pressures look great on the new gauge. Hangs around 290 on both DD and TA. Drops to 230-240 if I hold the ta lever in the middle. Cold lube pressure showed 18 psi on both DD and TA. After the half hour of running, clutch pressures remained pretty even still. Lube pressure slowly dropped until we got to 0. I shut it down at that point. I’m going to drain the oil next and the jumper tubes just to inspect the orings. I though I might try that can idea, plenty of them around to try it quick. Which of the tubes is the lube tube? Top one is what I think I seen somewhere. Judging my your responses, it’s not looking promising. Again, thanks guys, I’m learning a lot about this old girl during this project. You have been a big help.
  5. That is correct. I think I have located a pre luber from a buddy of mine. I haven’t located caps for the steering circuits (I assume by that it’s the lines coming out of the valve that sits between the starter and the battery, correct?). I’ll get some from the parts store in the morning.
  6. Thanks for the responses guys. TW7110- I did install new orings on the oil tubes when it was going back together, doesn’t mean i didn’t tear one during the installation though. They were lubed with Hy Tran for what it’s worth. DirtBoyz -We do have another 806 and swapping MCVs has crossed my mind but I hate to have both of Them down in the shop at the same time. The other is more of a chore tractor for us. The supply for the brakes is currently capped. I’ll have to dig around and see what I can find to plug the steering circuits. I’ll have to see what I can come up with for a pre luber too. Never used one, I’ll have to ask some folks I know if they have one. FarmallFixer- Hose clamp being loose on during the installation- that’s totally possible and I didn’t catch it. Keep in mind this is my first trip to the rodeo on a TA job. Is there a way I can check the lube baffle and is it repairable if I did mess it up? FarmerFixEmUp- The seat you speak of I assume is the counterbore that’s check valve sits into. I didn’t even realize that was a removable piece so I learned something there. I’ll see what I get into tonight and this weekend with the old girl. Hopefully we can get it narrowed down a bit more.
  7. Howdy Folks, New user and first time poster here, long time googler and have found great info off this forum to help me out on other projects. I've read a lot of MCV/no lube posts on here and other sites, talked with several people, and have been left scratching my head. Any pointers, information, and advice would greatly be appreciated. This is kind of a long winded story so bear with me, I want to try to be as thorough as possible. We've had trouble on and off the last season or two with the TA in the old man's 806. I talked with a local wrench turner, he suggested going thru the MCV and installing a new pump. It got the works, gaskets, seals, orings, and a spring kit from Hy Capacity. I had a little trouble getting it to work so I had him take a look at it and it was said that it was good (he's a Hy Capacity dealer and was in the middle of a 806 TA at the time so I feel confident that the MCV was good). It didn't completely fix all our issues but we were trying to limp the old girl thru the spring until we had more time to tear it down. We've had a hunch that the TA was going, it was just a matter of time. Well it finally did while I had it hooked to the chisel plow. That was in April. Fast forward to Christmas 2019, my brother and I had time off work so we tore into it. I ordered a new HD TA kit from Hy Capacity thru our local Case IH dealer. Everything came apart fine, everything seemed to go back together fine. Got the tractor all bolted back together, made all the connections, got everything ready to fire it up. Note also that the tractor received a new wiring harness as the old one had 50 years of rigging in it, and that the oil tell light wasn't operational when the TA quit. All that is in good working order now. Once we got it fired up, warmed up, topped off all the fluids again, I started into doing pressure checks since the tell light wouldn't shut off. I had not moved the tractor more than a few feet forwards or backwards in the shop, more of a check to make sure everything functioned after being reassembled. First time around, I had good clutch pressure, the guage I'm using is in too high of graduations to give an exact figure (I have a 600psi gauge on order and should be here in a day or two) but reads closer to the 300psi mark than the 200 in both direct drive and on the TA side. I did not have lube pressure in either position, but if I hold the lever in between, it would hold 20psi. I called the local dealer, talked with one of their guys, I also talked to a gentleman at Hy Capacity. He recommeded installing the dowel pin that come with the kit in place of the steering check valve. Did that, clutch pressures remained the same, lube pressure came up to 20 psi on both sides. I then ordered and installed a new spring and check valve, the old one did show some wear. The new check valve didn't help at all, still had good clutch pressure with 0 lube pressure. I then called out to Hy Capacity again, spoke with the same gentleman, obviously he couldn't recommend running the tractor with that dowel pin in, I had read its possible to do, he confirmed that its possible to do, though highly discouraged from Hy Capacity. Talked with my local guy again, we concluded that running that dowel pin was the way to go, not knowing where exactly where the leak is coming from, but hoping the blockage would be enough to compensate for the leakages (keep in mind the old girl has 8500 hours on the clock). So off came the MCV again, dowel was installed, all the connections were made again with the hope that would cure our issue. Fired the tractor up, still good clutch pressures, seemed to have 20 psi for a bit while the oil was cold. As the tractor warmed up, it started to loose pressure slowly. If you crank the wheels to lock, it drops straight to 0. If i press the brakes, the pressure drops. Makes no difference whether its in DD or TA. Pressure still comes back if i hold the TA lever in the middle position. I read on one forum or another to try blocking the oil line that feeds the brakes. tried that while it was still warm, lube pressure sits around 16 psi, but in time the pressure drifts off to 0. Obviously I have some kind of internal leak. I've ruled out the brakes, which leaves the steering, the TA itself, or the MCV to be the culprit, unless I'm missing something. I haven't disassembled the MCV, it only had a few hours on it before the old TA failed. The steering sucked on that tractor all my life (I'm 27 for what its worth), but you could crank the wheel around with one finger after installing the new pump and going thru the MCV. I have not touched anything steering related yet. One thing to note as well, my local guy asked if I had lube pressure when I went thru the MCV in the spring, I dont remember checking for it, we may not have had it then since the light didn't work and that was the cause of death of the old TA. I'm hoping one of you wise gentlemen have some thought, things to look at, things to check, general insight that might point me in the right direction. Thanks, Brian
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