Brian S

I cannot speak for the original poster, I can only speak for what I've seen with my tractors. I have a pair of 806s, both diesels, both running Case IH cartridge filters. One has the issue, one doesn't. Both parked on level ground, its pretty flat in general here. The one in question is sitting on concrete in the shop right now so that would eliminate the question of checking the dipstick on an uneven surface. I only put about 100 hours a year on either tractor, they get the engine oil and filters changed in the spring before field work commences. Obviously that is the time I've notices the canisters being half full, I don't have a reason to open them up mid season. My oil lights do work on both tractors, I have not noticed anything unusual about them as far as oil pressure is concerned, but I do not have an auxiliary gauge on the tractor in question. Might be a good idea to put one on it just to get a better understanding of what is going on at start up.

I don't post often on here, but I have an 806 that has been doing the exact same thing for a while now. If I go out and pull the dipstick right now, it will be over full. Fire it up, let it warm up, shut it off, come back 15-20 minutes later and its right where the oil level should be. If I went out the next morning and check it again, it will be over full. I have noticed the canisters being half full or less as well at oil change intervals. I don't have any engine oil leaks on this particular tractor nor does it seem to burn any oil. I have just made sure to be diligent about pulling the dipstick and not working it until its warmed up. Its ran great all spring and summer minus the leaky RD injection pump. A buddy of mine at work has had a same issue with his Dodge pickup with a 12 valve in it. He's the only other guy I've heard ever mention the filters not being full at oil changes. I'm curious to know if anyone has any solutions as well. Seems really odd that it would siphon oil back into the pan somehow but that seems to be where the oil is going.

That theory would make sense to me.

Update for you guys following along. I pulled the hydraulic pump to run a couple of wires down these passages tonight. And I think we have solved what the second one does. See the attached pics. When I pulled the pump and mounting plate out, the gasket tore blocking the second hole. Didn’t bother picking at it. It had an oring over the hole in the mouthing plate as well. That piece of gasket was blocking this second passage. That tells me this passage isn’t used, or at least not used at some point when they made the updates. So with that being said, any newer revision part number should in theory work just fine. This still doesn’t tell us why it was put into the casting to start with. I didn’t go tracing it thru the top cover once I seen the gasket had the flow blocked off.

Well, I might just try running some wires or air thru it. I’m still curious to the whole thing. I don’t know that I can give much info in the top cover since it’s still all assembled but the rear casting should be easy to figure out when I gut it. For what it’s worth, the serial number on this tractor is 4218, which makes it a late 63 model. I’ll have the check the casting number on our other 806 and see if it’s the same being a 64 model. As I said before, it’s stumped a lot of folks, peaked a lot of their interest, but no solid answers.

Good evening gentlemen, It’s been a while since I posted anything but I come across a stumper today. I got an 806 in the shop that needs the rear house replaced, cast is broke….long story. Anyhow I’ve been on a search for parts the last few days and have run across a couple different cast/part numbers. Mine is a 380361R1. I located what we thought was a replacement over at Anderson Tractor in Bluffton, Ohio. When we loaded it up, I noticed theirs was a tad different than mine. Their number is 380361R2. Mine has two green o ring ports right behind where your left foot would be and theirs only has one. We were unable to locate one in the yard that had the two ports like mine. To top that off, the old techs at our local dealer said haven’t seen one in all their years with two orings like mine come thru their shop. I’ll attach some pictures. When did they switch to one port and why? Now to add to the questions, my top cover also has the two ports. I assume they changed that to one port along the way as well. What does this second port do? Are these pieces interchangeable at all? This has baffled a lot of people that I’ve talked to. Like I said, the guys at Anderson’s were super helpful but hadn’t seen it before and the techs at Burkharts were stumped as well. I’ve located one from Gene’s Recycling in Attica so I think I’m good on parts now. I’m really just posting this question out of curiosity sake at this point. I know you guys have alot of knowledge, I figured this might be a good place ask. Thanks, Brian

I had to chuckle at that last bit. I thought the same thing when we took the cab on and off the 806 for the TA job this past winter, but we survived. lol