Brian S

Howdy folks, Been too wet to get the old girl out and really run it, but got it out and run it around the barnyard a bit. Pressures still seems to be holding steady so I think we got it. Managed to get a little time to get all the sheet metal back on it and add a couple new light on the front end. Straightened out a little wiring too. Just need to get the cab back on it, the duals, and the weights we took off to push it in the barn at the start of this saga.

Good evening gentlemen, Good news, I think I got it. Once warmed up, the old girl maintains 18-19 psi of lube pressure, 270 psi on DD, and 250-260 on TA. I have three #10 washers as shims in the pressure regulator valve (.039” avg for reference). It seems good in the shop. I’ll probably take the splitting stands off tomorrow night and start buttoning up some light wiring and the sheet metal. Maybe this weekend I can find a little work for the old girl to try it out on before we stick the cab back on. Thanks for all your help guys, it’s much appreciated. Brian

I have not yet. Been out of state for work the last few days. Later this week we’ll give it a go again.

Ok, dumb question, but I’ll ask anyhow. When shimming the relief valve, do you shin between the valve and the spring or between the valve and the plug? I put one #10 washer between the valve and the spring and it made little to no difference tonight. I thought about adding a second but one of you warned me about not getting carried away with it. I just wanted to check before I added another washer.

I’ll give it a shot and see what we get. I’m feeling pretty good at this whole project now that we’re moving the right direction. thanks for all your inputs.

Evening gentlemen, Good news, the gasket seems to have done the trick. She held 20 psi of lube for a half hour thru all rpm ranges. I’ll have to get the brakes and steering hooked back up next. Here’s the question, clutch pressure on both DD and TA hold at 240, a touch low. Somewhere I think I read that it’s possible to shim the relief valve to boost the pressure. The question is how low is too low of a pressure? The warranty card for the TA specs out 250-300 psi. Would shimming they relief valve be enough to get me where I need to be? If so, is there a rule of thumb for shimming to achieve a desired pressure? Or am I completely off on that train of thought?

Called my local dealer tonight and talked with one of the techs. Explained to him what I have going on. After some talk we decided the next best thing to look at was the MCV it’s self and see if by chance there’s a blown gasket. Well, we may have found a winner tonight. The gasket between the back plate and the center valve section had a spot that was off into one of the circuit runners in the casting. I have a gasket kit here for the MCV so I’ll stick that in and try it out. Don’t know if it’s a cure all fix but it certainly isn’t helping the cause.

Good evening folks, Got the MCV back on the tractor tonight. Got some pressure readings from the correct port this time, both cold and warm. At cold, both DD and TA had 220 psi for the clutches and about 18 psi for lube. Once it warmed up, lube went to 0 again, DD was at 200 and TA was about 210. Pressure between the two read about 140 psi. Obviously those numbers are lower than they should be. From what I gather from you guys, it kinda sounds like it needs to come back apart again. What do you guys think? You know a lot more about these than I do.

815- yes, the sump check both the new and old sump check was install as pictured in the diagram you posted. I currently still have the Hy Capacity test dowel in the housing in place of the sump check.

Good Evening Gentlemen, I got some time to wrench this evening. I tapped out the jumper tubes and hooked up a pre luber to them. Top jumper I assume is the lube tube I assume, with 20 psi applied, Hy Tran ran out the quill end of the TA. Orings on all the jumpers seemed to be sealing well. I didn’t notice anything major on the bottom two jumper tubes, just some oil seeping outside the trans housing from not having the fittings snug enough to the tubes. That being said, I’m assuming bad news with this particular TA. Thoughts?

Good advice.

Ok good news and bad news. Good news is I found enough fitting to get me plumbed in to the correct port so I’ll reverify my pressures again. The bad news, I pulled the jumper tubes. Bottom two seemed fine. The top one I played **** with to get out. The oring that seats into the TA is a little tore up, not sure if it’s from installation or pulling it back out. I should have another one around here and I’ll stick it back together.

Noted, I was misinformed there. Learning more as I go. Much appreciated

The one with the pressure relief valve stuck up in it then?

Ok guys, So I got all the lines expect the ones to and from the oil cooler capped off this morning. Just fired it back up and let it run at 1500 rpm for a half hour or so. Clutch pressures look great on the new gauge. Hangs around 290 on both DD and TA. Drops to 230-240 if I hold the ta lever in the middle. Cold lube pressure showed 18 psi on both DD and TA. After the half hour of running, clutch pressures remained pretty even still. Lube pressure slowly dropped until we got to 0. I shut it down at that point. I’m going to drain the oil next and the jumper tubes just to inspect the orings. I though I might try that can idea, plenty of them around to try it quick. Which of the tubes is the lube tube? Top one is what I think I seen somewhere. Judging my your responses, it’s not looking promising. Again, thanks guys, I’m learning a lot about this old girl during this project. You have been a big help.