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blacksmith

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About blacksmith

  • Birthday July 16

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    Female
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    Rutland, MA
  • Interests
    Nearly everything dealing with metal.. Rock climbing, MTB, scuba diving, Ninjutsu,

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  1. Nearly finished on the console wiring harness. Interestingly I have the manuals and all 3 references are different. Not used to the way its wired. Kinda backwards to me in a way. The power comes thru the harness to the switch. Old connector, old harness and new installed. 1 more wire to go.
  2. As for leads.. I did run into a guy on FB IH industrial group that got me in touch with a buddy of his.. This buddy has 2 of these machines that came from a coal mine.. One is a parts machine the other is not running but was.. I reached out to the guy and he said he will take the parts machine apart as he needed to get into it anyhow and will take a phgto and maybe get a few of the washers made.. As for exact model of the backhoe unit.. I have not located the exact model info.. I reached out to Wainroy but never heard back. I have done some searching and 3414 comes up but when I do a search it just brings up a whole tractor backhoe.. What I have seen is the swing type rack/pinion is used on a bunch of the early models. And this in lye's the problem.. Being able to identify by specs what it will and won't do.. I don't have enough knowledge on IH to know and compare.. On this machine it will dig a 15' hole.. Will take a bucket as large as 36"
  3. I also got the rear window functional.. All the rollers were stuck and had major flat spots.. Nearly impossible to get the rear window up or down. So bought 43mm skate wheels that had an 8mm hole (5/16") and some 5/16" coupling nuts.. Some flat top screws 5/16".. Cut all the nuts to about 1.5 the size of stock nuts, welded them onto the original brackets after removing the original shafts and wheels.. Works great.
  4. So still going strong on the 3800.. I've been collecting gauges, switches, fuse holders, wiring components and getting ready to replace the console wiring harness.. The connections are Delphi 56 series.. I bought silicon jacket tinned copper wire vs the original which I imagine there is a source someplace. I bought the connectors and all the spade crimp connectors so basically will have the same connectors as original. The Neutral safety switch was also installed as the original was toast.
  5. The gauges in the unit have engine oil pressure, water temp and RPM, trans temp, converter pressure, glow plugs, What gauge is a good replacement for the trans temp and converter pressure? What is the range for converter pressure?
  6. So, I posted over in Ag about my 3800 industrial loader backhoe.. Looking for information as to date of MFG serial number 915
  7. @hardtail I sent Wain Roy a message.. Thanks for the lead.. Maybe get lucky..
  8. Does anyone know the model of backhoe attached to he body? I've seen different numbers elsewhere.. 3414 I think is one of them that was used on a completely different model.. It used the same type of swing mechanism though. On the bottom of the swing there is a gap between the nut and the body of the swing and bearing. The mount on the tractor is a U shape which tells me there was some sort of spacer there.. The spacer is missing and can not find a picture of it to make a new one. I can not find the part number in the catalog either.
  9. thanks.. Neat old machine for sure.. I'm a tad of a perfectionist.. Tempered with ah, that's good enough.. LOL.. I knew some mechanics that would do everything wrong.. Never clean a part or wheel bearing or mating surfaces and they would never have a leak.. I clean everything nearly enough to eat off of, and get a leak everytime.. Another really funny one is" I can't drill a straight hole even with a drill press.. But then when I try to make a crooked hole, it comes out straight.. Go figure.
  10. The new gasket fit the cover Or I should say has the same outline.. There are no lips, flanges or anything to keep the gasket or valve cover in place and you can move it around over the heads surface. The exhaust manifold on the right is there to stop if from sliding as is the valve train inside. This cover has copper gaskets instead of rubber.. The holes on the front are straight and the 2 towards the back of the motor are angled from the factory but the bolts still go straight down. I annealed the copper washers before putting it back together.
  11. Thanks.. That poor threader.. I've wanted that type for years.. Up to 4" pipe too.. I will use it for twisting bars as well. How tight is to tight? Finger tight? Water hose tight? or just tight enough your afraid you will break something? I won't be changing the filter and yes I'm sure its the transmission filter.. The housing when it was assembled was a 2 piece deal.. Welded around to the bottom part.. So the threads looked cross threaded.. I posted photos of the inside before.. It threaded together perfectly and works as it should.. Maybe some help with locating a filter.. I'm, not sure which number is which..
  12. I'm not quite sure why it is, but I usually end up getting things that are blackhole information wise. I suppose I'm lucky that way
  13. Can't wait to see it.. I'm not a flashy person and I have never owned a new car or truck or anything huge.. I've owned a few new Anvils but that's about it on the new scale.. Few things are required in anything motorized.. Has to start, has to run and it has to stop.. Looks while nice usually falls to the wayside.. I'm not a great painter.. The prep to do a nice job is more than I can apply to it. I did rebuild an Old Oster pipe threader though.. She needed major TLC.. Maybe one of the nicest jobs I've done.
  14. I've seen valve recession into heads on Gasoline car engines.. I assumed it is the same type of thing.. You will find the clearances really tight between valve stem and rocker.. Its more assumption based on a simple observation.. All the valve and spring assemblies where the same height.. Valve recession again, would show more height at the spring retainer.. Again based on visual vs taking the head off to see.. Is it the ultimate way to check.. Certainly not, but if I got in there and all the valves were loose but 1 with no clearance then it would need further investigation.. I'm not an IH nor diesel expert.. I can only apply information I have from previous work, information I read in manuals or information you find people here offer.. No feedback or instructions from the forum, it then becomes previous work and manuals.. The collective here will have more information from experience which can be more beneficial as the "Been there, done that, and this is the right way". Vs manuals.. Thanks for the info. I have no history on the injectors.. The original red paint looks fairly new but it's been painted over several times.. Can see a few coats of yellow. My biggest concern is the low idle. If I let off the throttle it will die..
  15. After the grill last night I pulled the valve cover off and cleaned it.. Today I did a bunch of reading and ended up coming back onto the Red site and looking for which end of the motor is number 1 cylinder.. I've never worked on a tractor diesel so had to see where things are.. Cylinder 1 is closest to the fan belt and water pump end. On front of the timing cover there is a pointer cast into it and on the front inner balancer/pulley there is a scale with Degrees with a prominent Dot (.) for TDC.. So after reading the procedure in the engine manual D282 I tackled the job.. Because of the oil cooler lines were was no way to get a socket in and grab the front crank nut.. So instead there are holes for bolts tapped into the front harmonic balancer.. I used 6 bolts and a long bar to spin the motor around and once I figured out that for each revolution it will be either at cylinder 1 or cylinder 6.. (checking the rockers for open arms (space)and compression stroke).. I adjusted 1,2,3,5,7 and 9.. to 0.30 then with TDC on cylinder 6 I adjusted 4, 6,8,10,11,12 also to 0.30 In the D282 manual I have it called for 0.27" but figured there were 2 numbers 0.27 and 0.30.. When I checked the original clearance it was extremely loose.. 0.60-0.75" .. There was no valve recession into the head so that was good to see.. I can not believe there is no groove or oring type gasket for the valve cover.. Just a flat gasket. What do you guys use on these gaskets to help seal them and hold them in position? Also what torque value?
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