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About blacksmith

  • Birthday July 16

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    Rutland, MA
  • Interests
    Nearly everything dealing with metal.. Rock climbing, MTB, scuba diving, Ninjutsu,

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  1. HIRedRyan thank you so much for posting up that information flyer.. Way, way cool. Thank you.. So I cleaned all the fuel injectors right or wrong by taking a small set screw and sliding that down the injector throat and then screwing in the top retainer just enough to see the pintel of the injector open.. Then sticking these into the ultrasonic cleaner and running them thru a bunch of cleaning cycles. I was able to buy a brand new Precombustion cup to replace the missing one from FB smith for a reasonable price and also bought new shims from Steiner.. Steiner had them for like 1/2 the cost of any place else. Someone before me snapped part of a line inside the injector and left it in there. I was able to drill it out carefully after trying heat and vibration with no success.. I moved all of the existing pre combustion cups into 2-6 cylinders.. 1 has the easist access.. Of note.. Do not tighten the retainer bolts fully without the combustion cups in the bore.. The bolts will go thru into the water jacket. Yup. one of the bolts poked thru into the water jacket so now have a potential leak point. The bolt and threads are fine but might have to seal the bolt now. Last night I was able to get the new precombustion cup with required spacers in and got all the lines hooked back up. The correct installation in the D282 for the combustion cups is with the hole on the bottom. or in the 180d or 6 Oclock position. Still waiting on the new Hydraulic filter from Killer filter.. I could not find a cross over available from any source.. Doesn't mean there aren't any Just means I could not find one..
  2. Thanks, So the angled bottom lip should point downwards? I'm dyslexic so direction left, right or degrees of rotation can be tough. Bevel pointed up or pointed down registers better. From what you said, the bevel should point down??
  3. So it's been a little bit more or less because I've been super busy, broke my arm and dislocated my elbow. Few weeks back I went to use the machine to lift a body of a pickup truck and it wouldn't even touch it. i then checked the hydraulic fluid and it was full of water.. When I say full of water the bottom the tank had about 1" in it but the fluid was that wonderful milky color. So I pull the unit into the heated shop to drain the fluid and while I was in there I decided to pull the injectors and see about cleaning them out/up. I have an ultrasonic cleaner so figured I can try it before sending them out to a professional. Here are some photos.. the last 2, cylinders 5 and 6 are super stuck so will take the time to make sure they come out. Which way are the precombustion cups supposed to be facing? Also there is one missing and it looks like there is a whole in the bottom of the injector hole like a cast iron cup. I took a photo but it did not come out.
  4. @Jacka Thanks for the kind words.. being a blacksmith with fabrication skills makes nearly any metal part that is fabricated or forged possible. On this machine there is very little IH only for the most part.. Allison transmission, Rockwell axles. IH engine stuff is still around. the frame and such is all welded construction.. I do understand though completely.. I have a tendency to like obscure equipment and have a budget (cheap) so end up doing these kinds of things because it's what I can afford.. I'd love to have easy parts access.. Today was the first day I actually used it.. The brakes do work they just need adjustment I believe.
  5. Today I got it all buttoned up.. Well as much as I can tell without driving it. The bottom linkage that went to the transmission shifter shaft once all the new linkages were made was to long.. My best guess is with all the slop they added about 2" of length to the shaft coming off the shifter. So Hight gear was not even possible. this is in the first photo.. They used a nut to weld either side of it. Now everything aligns.. I might take the shifter shaft out and shorten it some to get back to the length of the original U shaped piece. I put all the floor back in so is buttoned up. Next will be a few hydraulic leaks and brakes..
  6. I got back onto the machine today. I wanted to see why the shifting linkage was so sloppy.. I had originally assumed the slop was a combination of all the linkage as all the nylon bushings were missing. So I bought the Igus bushings and the correct drill size to open the holes to accept the bushings. I also bought heim joints and 1/2" bolts and nuts. I cleaned all the linkage and examined it for wear. The bottom link from the main shift transfer bar to the transmission was egged out and believe this is where nearly all the slop came from On further investigation is looks like someone got in there and brazed some of the holes.. All the holes were drilled and Igus bushing put in. I made the rod for the heim joints and threaded a right and left hand thread and matched it to the original linkage. I also put UHM tape on the bushings for the shifter and for the transfer bar pivot.
  7. Well, I've been so much wanting to get more work done on the machine. I've had several auto breakdowns which have dragged me away from the machine. I have painted these inside of the engine cover white. The bushing arrived to make a copy of from Steve in PA. Thanks Steve. I remade the 4x4 disconnect with igus bushing.
  8. That is a mighty fine looking machine.. Love the blueish color.. Definetly better than a shovel.. Thanks for posting up some photos.. I am looking for a photo of the 4X4 disconnect lever and rod at the floor boards.. hint, hint.. Makes me even more stoked to get mine going..
  9. The extra terminal off the light switch is for auxiliary head light/auxillary lights. After reading your comments it's prompted me to look into the wiring per the drawings and such and can now understand what they did.. The rear work lights (clear/white light) were controlled by the rear switch for the backhoe operations.. The red lights were controlled by the console 3 position switch.. (when the rear lights come on there is no provision to shut the hazard light off. Part of the problem is there seems to be a lack of understanding of the main switch.. Which is Off, 1st is console and headlights. 2nd same deal.. 3rd is rear lights.. Or all lights on as per mention for positions 1, 2 and 3. There is no power to the brown/white wire until position 3 on the switch.. Personally I'd rather have control of the rear work lights from the console vs red lights unless they are super bright. I drive at night and having really bright backup lights is awesome.
  10. Thank you. After looking at your response and the Operators manual I think you are absolutely right.. I bought a switch from one of the aftermarket tractor suppliers.. it seems like something is amiss.. The switch is labeled Bat, clust, TL, HL There is a resistor wire between the HL and TL.. I'm extremely dyslexic and the way the letters were aligned it could have gone either way.. I spent maybe 2hrs trying to figure the switch out.. The wires are connected as shown in the wiring schematics for the light switch.. I tested the switch with the multimeter.. I get it now, but don't really understand why someone would want the hazard light on when the lights are on.. vs the option to turn it on or off for a given light switch position. So this is what I thought the rear switch was for is to control the hazard light. The Par36 lights come in a Low/high beam configuration? I looked but could not find one. Because this has the canopy on it there is no place for the 2nd light bulb. On the switch.. The HL light is non resistor? And this is for Headlight high beam vs the TL? There was no provision in the switch for a low/high beam. Was a second head light an option for this machine. Just noticed the cover of the Operators manual only has 1 pair of headlights. The headlights had a grounding wire with 2 terminals for 2 lights per light bucket.
  11. the yellow wire ran to the light and the secondary Red bulb.. Then there were yellow grounding leads to screws on the adjustment rings for the lights. No chassis grounds.. Just to the light housing screws.. 1 yellow lead each side.. There was only 1 red light bulb left but it just piggy backs onto the lighting reflector terminal screw. It was not connected as the wire was missing.
  12. Fairly clear on the wiring.. Yes, yes.. Yes on the fuse.. the Yellow wire has a fuse.. The brown and white does not.. So how does one turn only the white lights on, or the red internal lights on? I understand having the flasher but it's on it's own brown and white wire. So as soon as the rear lights come on, they are white/clear and the flasher comes on too????
  13. I had seen the grounding is thru the frame and bolts.. No extra wires.. LOL.. Learned a long time ago having a solid ground can eliminate most wiring problems so will add grounding wires..
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