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About DieselSmokeDangerousCurves

  • Birthday 06/10/1968

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    Driving, turning left quickly, fixing and repairing things that should run, helping my father , restoring old vehicles and tractors, learning

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  1. AC find me a blade and shipping to eureka would be about $1600
  2. AC, $6000 is nuts. I know a guy in Wisconsin that has one way cheaper. it runs and drives but has a different motor now. If you are interested let me know and i will contact him on a price. see what that guy would want just for the blade assembly. mine has a blade but is mounted to a loader. i cant push to much for fear I will bend the rams or loader arms.
  3. louie figone, thanks. As for the other side, your correct. I need to get that one redone also. Time seems to always be lacking. I still have the axle to find and replace on the dump truck yet too. As well as rebuld the idlers on the TD6 as Mike suggested. Add to that the race car, work 1. work 2. Yeah, one day. 😉
  4. AC our scrap here is about $150 to $200 a ton. If you can get it for under $1000, Youll be ok. If it is not running you will need a manual. there are ones online for free. you'll need patients and time If your mechanically able as well as welding skills. I'm trying to find a blade like the one your looking at. If your not going to buy the unit, I'd be interested. Hopefully you will make the deal and help preserve another of these old girls. They are a blast to own and use. many of the motor parts are the same as a Farmall MD400. Good Luck
  5. It's been awhile since I have had time to update everyone on the TD6's play dates. Life tends to get in the way of playing on websites so my apologies to those who have followed faithfully and wondered what happened. The ole' girl is still working and earning her keep. Last summer I was asked to move a rock off one of our logging roads that stuck up just high enough to hit the bottom of my fathers UTV. I thought no big deal and after 20 minutes found the rock had grown a few feet as I pushed and dug. 3ft of rock later I pushed that rock on the side of the trail along with 5 or 8 others. I learned the glacier had a bowl movement at this point in the trail and used fill from the sides to make big holes disappear. Unfortunately, the weather started get pretty set for a down pour so the road didn't get finished. I headed back to shelter and as the skies opened up, proceeded to wait it out and started inspecting the ole' girl. Upon doing so I noticed the left side adjuster looked a tad crooked. Further inspection revealed it had self destructed. I dismantled the pieces, talked to a friend who is a damn good machinist, and after a week of work picked up the new adjuster and started putting it back together. That's when I learned the track needs to be split to slide the idler forward enough to be able to install the new adjuster. I guess engineers like helping the English language evolve quickly into new words. Seems on TD6 tracks, the pins go in from the left side on both right and left track assemblies. This might be great if you are working on the right side, but not so fun if working on the left. HINT, make sure when working on left side tracks to be sure master link is at the rear of the unit and about centered on the drive sprocket at the 9 o'clock position when looking at the inside. When deciding to tackle this project. Be sure to have a torch, a really big hammer, a really long drift punch, and plenty of new words. Remove the cotter pin on the inside, then heat the outside outer link around the pin, bribe a friend to keep heating as you use a drift punch and hammer to drive the pin from the inside towards the outside as there is a shoulder on the outside of the pin. Also, be sure you have welding gloves on about the time the pin goes flying out as upon retrieving the drift punch, the track will fall back and the 3rd degree burns you get as it slaps your wrist tingle for a few days. Notice also how one side of the pin has 60 plus years of wear which made a groove. The joy! At this point you can now use a long heavy duty pry bar to slide the idler forward enough to get the ready rod screwed into the original hole. Newly repaired adjuster. A good coat of never seize on the threads will make life happier when you have to adjust it. Now you can slide the idler back into position reinstall the master pin after you wire brush it, never seize it also. I also removed the 4 bolts on the bracket on the idler and cleaned up the housing and bolts as they were rusty. I used a come along to pull the idler back into position and replaced the missing bolts that hold the coupler to the bracket so it cant spin. When installing the pin, place the non grooved side 180 degrees from where it was when you removed it and it will give you 60 more years of use out of it. Notice the I cleaned up the outer ridge and it now slides in very nicely so when I have to separate it again, less new words will be used. Once the track is back together, you can now use a wrench to tighten the nut towards the rear until you get proper tension then tighten the front nut down against the rear one to lock it. A note to Mike Newman, thank you for your information. I still have to build up the rollers as you mentioned. I think I understand now what you mean as I noticed the rollers are getting into the pins as you stated. I should have done the left side when I had it apart, having just read your last reply tonight, and being time was been a factor then, I will have to do so as soon as time becomes available. I still don't know if the rollers are the original ones but will check when I can. One last thing, note to all, the TD6 is to light to pull a fully loaded single axle IH patrol dump truck out once you sink in with the dump truck and break an axle shaft trying to get it out before you get the TD6 to pull you. Note to self. get the crawler first and use the TD6 with the help of the truck and you wont have to find time and parts to fix the dump truck. Happy 4th of July to all of you! Chris especially.
  6. Chris, I haven't had a chance to be on much lately. To much going on. Glad to see you have your new shed up and Matt seems to be enjoying taking over on your TD6 were you left off. Been looking for an actual dozer attachment for my TD6. Seen a few online out west but haven't had a chance to see if there still available. Hope all is going well with everyone. I'll post some updates on my TD6 hopefully this weekend as I upgraded the top rams for the loader that were leaking and bent. Take Care
  7. Thank you Mike, Ian, and Chris for your replies. Mike, how do I tell if the rollers are worn or if they are the IH or Berco ones? I assume by "building up" you are refering to welding them to build up the edges, as one of the owners did on the rear drive sprockets to build them up again? As for the transmission dipstick, on page 27 of the owners manual, on the right side of the lubrication diagraghm, it shows, "240 hrs UGL Transmission Oil Level Bayonet Guage and Filler Item no. 17", on page 30 you can see the filler cap. Not sure either what that all was sposed to exist. As for the odd adjuster nut, I think someone added a lock to the nuts, maybe as a quick fix like Chris did? Still haven't had time to sort that mess out yet but from Mike's help it looks like I might have bigger issues. Ian, I like your plan for using the filler neck. Tho now that the thermostat was changed, tempuratures seem to be good and no leakage yet, What year Mark 2? or Zepher? Did you soldier yours on or just drive it on gently? Define flapping? do you mean bearings bad, wiggling back and forth? Everything looks tight for the front idler but no good way to get weight off it to check. Seems between yours and Mikes advice I'll have to find a way to double check all these items. No regrets Chris, hoping to find one 57 pickup all running and needing minor work and paint. No big hurry. Next weekend I'm sposed to take the 86' Camaro to the car show in town. Thats enough fun to make up for sending off the 2 trucks for now. If I get bored and run out of things to do, dads 53' Chevy 2 dr car needs my attention badly, I started on it when I was 16 and still haven't gotten anywere. Hope yall had a good 4th, keep safe and happy pushing
  8. My TD6 has a date in a few weeks with a job moving dirt for a friend to put in a driveway. So him and I spent last weekend going thru the old girl. Greased everything, not sure what happens when you grease all the idlers but not having a bucket oiler, it sounded like a plan. I did noticed that the track guides are worn, will need to find a set of those or will have to try to make a set. Also, finally had time to change the thermostat and replace the block heater. The thermostat was all beat up and once replaced the tempurature finally moved off the end and wen't just past the edge of the right side of the cold mark to the edge of the left side of green. Took the block heater off our Farmall 560 thinking we had a frost plug one for that and learned the one we had was the wrong one. Now i have to find a new one for that. Managed to find every grease Zerk and button fitting we could including the clutch area. We couldn't find one cam zerk in there tho. Not sure were its hidden. Also had a chance to adjust the steering linkages to the recommended 4" of free play. Not as bad as I had figured the job would be. Now tho with the taller seat, it's a little harder to reach them comfortably. Still have to adjust the steering brakes tho. Still have to check the oil in drive sprockets as well. Also figured out why the right front nut on the top of the trans is square and pulls out. Supposedly theres sposed to be a dipstick there. I'm thinking it must be broke off as only 1.5" of stud are left and nothing else. Will have to figure out how long its sposed to be. For awhile now, the gas sediment bulb assy hasn't shut off. Took it apart to figure out why and as you can see in the pics its rotted away. A neighbor who works on tractors had a good used one and a new screen and cork gasket. Don't use the rubber ones unless you plan on replaceing them every time you clean the bowl as they expand and won't seal after being installed. Still have to clean out the diesel one. Nervous because its a pain to get at and I'm betting harder to find if I have to replace it as well. This weekend I found a new home and owner for my 57' and 59' Chevy pickups. Haven't found time int 30 years to work on them so thanks to the TD6's help was able to load them on the new owners trailer and send them off. Still have more vehicles to restore hopefully eventually so I'm wondering when those will get time found for. Hope every one had a good Fathers Day and is staying busy and safe.
  9. Thanks Peter, I decided on leaving it in. I know exactly where the teeth are bad and use a pipe wrench to turn the front coupler a few degrees past were I know its bad. Also i used a file to clean up as many teeth as i could for now. The biggest reason for doing this is not being able to source a new reasonably priced ring gear. I can't see doing all the work just to turn it 90 degs or so and then worry it will decide to stop at the bad spot again. When I find a new one I'll get a hold of you for all that information. If my info is right you live in IL which is south of me and maybe a few free beers might entice you to come "visit" um "help". Racing starts up June 5th so all the spare time I have had has gone into rebuilding the race car being the government seen to forcing the track to post pone the season 2 months. Good thing I have been deemed essential and there was plenty of loads to haul to help pay for this all. So much going on I haven't had a chance to get to the thermostat or anything else on the TD6 lately. Plus the helping dad on his tractors and other projects has been keeping me busy also. Hope everyone is well and safe.
  10. Peter, there is a company up by the Fox Valley Appleton WI area that sells springs of all makes and sizes. When I talk to the boss next I'll ask the phone number, they may all ready have a spring leaf or spring pack designed or one that will work. if you have the size of the leaf and thickness they can match one up. I'm by mine this weekend and will check if I have anything close here that will work for you. You have come along way on your crawlers, I'm trying to find a blade assy. like yours to have for mine also as it's much stronger to push with that blade setup than mine.
  11. Started doing work on the TD6 the past 2 weekends again going thru everything to see what needs fixing. Decided to remove the starter to check the ring gear damage. Had the starter checked out while off and everything in it was brand new and nothing needed to be done with it except I will paint it properly. So now I have to replace the ring gear which unfortunately has a few teeth ground off it. I read PBach's post on his ring gear issues and it left me with a few questions. #1 has anybody tried getting the flywheel out from the back side by removing the top front plate, the drive shaft, the clutch lever shaft assy. then the pressure plate, clutch plate and finally the flywheel? The only big obstical I can see is if removing the coupler for the drive shaft will leave enough room to get everything out. Also I think from reading Pbach's site he just rotated the ring gear 90 deg or so. Pulling the motor might be a pain like Chris's TD6 as the loader might be in the way. Though taking it out would allow me to repaint all the areas that weren't painted very well the last refresh someone did on it. Right now if the engine lands on the bad area of the ring gear I have to use a pipe wrench on the front pump shaft to turn it a little so i don't mess up the starter. Not the worst but it gets old. Trying to do all this a few hours on the weekend might take awhile if I have to pull the motor. I've requested a quote for a price on a ring gear from FP Smith for Part Number 47874 DC the $325 cost from Bates is pretty steep considering it probably doesn't come shipped with one of their employees to install it at that price. Anyone know any other place were i can find one at a reasonable price? If i have to pull the motor anyway, that might be the smarter option. Also does anyone know were I can get a Part Number 51394 D track roller? I have a few worn ones, otherwise I will have to try to make some on the lathe. Hope your all staying safe and those of you who aren't essential are finding enough time to work on all your projects. Those of you who continue to have to work, be careful.
  12. Haven't had time to update you all with everything going on on my TD6 lately due to life, so I'll try to cram in as much as I can now. Had a chance to grease all the button fittings I could find on each side of the track rail and the idlers a few weeks ago as well as any other grease zerks I could find with out climbing under it on the frozen ground. Will find those when its clean and its warmer. Also, took a better look at the adjusters on each side. The left side with the extra hardware still looks like there are 2 nuts under the lock and it looks like the clamp must be there to keep them from slipping. Once it gets a little bit warmer I will try to adjust them after I pressure wash everything. Are there any replaceable wear bars on the bottom were the track rides? I've noticed the track links are riding very deep there and it is wearing into each link. I'm hoping once i tighten the track it don't cut in deeper. The ole girl served us well this winter in pushing snow. She started and was used pretty much every weekend. One day it was 7 deg out. That morning it was so cold even the starter wouldn't turn over. I tried to plug in the block heater and the old chord went up in smoke so after blowing out the fire, I went and grabbed a propane Mr. Heater and placed it under the motor along with a rug over the top of everything above to make a tent. I hooked the pickup up to the battery to warm that up and after an hour everything spun over and she fired up on gas. A few minutes later and she flipped to diesel and purred while warming up. It's amazing how much snow these small machines can push. Ice piles tho can be a challenge. it slips on ice despite the tracks which also makes steering large piles a pain. To keep from tearing up the driveway and grass, I learned that because there is no float position in the ram controls, if I turn the blade back so that the front of the blade is up a little bit and the back is on the ground, it doesn't dig in unless you go down a hill steeper than the blade height. The other thing I noticed is when you cut down iron wood and leave 2 foot stumps about 2"-5" around they just tip over in winter rather than come out of the ground easy. Guess the frost is holding the roots in. I'd like to find an actual bulldozer and frame for pushing bigger stumps and stuff because I worry if I don't spin the tracks on something to big, that the loader frame will get bent. I did blow a hose for moving the blade back. 10 minutes after putting a different hose on, the one to make the blade go forward blew. They both were old and cracked so go figure. Now that the snow is melting, any were a rock was buried with any part of it sticking up, there is now a hole about a foot long with the rock moved over. More work. tho less rocks buried. I've included a couple of trail cam pics of me pushing snow down one of our logging roads. Ignore the date and time as the LED screen is messed up so there is no way to set anything including those. Time to get the race car ready, stay healthy everyone and watch out for stores with no toilet paper or sanitizers, and this crazy China virus going around.
  13. Anyone know if either of these 2 track adjusters are original? The first one is the left side, the second with the double nuts is the right side. The left one needs adjustment bad. Looking at it I'm thinking it might be a struggle. Thanks SONNY for some info on the grease. I have a really sticky type grease I will try. Its a white synthetic blend that works well on semi trucks.
  14. I just noticed Chris that you don't have rock guards on your idler or drive gears.my S.N. tells me all the options mine came with.mine. iI still am jealous of your Brush Guard Grill.
  15. I learned the more I run mine the easier it starts every time. I have so much I want to do on mine too. Upgrade wiring, pressure wash it, I need to learn where to grease it all, (I know where some of the button grease zerks are but not sure what takes grease or which flavor and weight and what takes oil or other lube. The manual uses old terms and no one around here is alive anymore to remember what is what. I figure all the button heads along the track are grease but I'm wondering what to use in the rollers as guys on here recommend some kind of corn head grease or something. I have the special fitting for the button heads and will just grease the track areas before the next time I use it. Also turning right with just the lever is way more pull than turning left so come spring adjustments gotta be done there too. I gotta find me a way to set the parking brake easier also as trying to bend down to reach it with my fingers don't work well. I'm not that flexible. She's earning her rent tho and come spring I have a bunch of dirt and stumps to push also. The blade on it now works well in the snow without digging in to much if I roll the blade back twords the machine and let the back side of the blade ride on the ground with the front edge slightly up. a lil down pressure and all is well even when the front goes up or down. With out a "float" position the only time I have issues is if the crawler goes over a left or right off camber hump on our logging roads. It will dig in on one side if I don't quickly raise the blade a lil. Also any rocks with their tops above the ground mysteriously come out of the ground unless their giant. The same rocks the 8N back blade bounced over. I'm thinking the rock pile out back will be larger in spring.
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