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AngrySailor

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Everything posted by AngrySailor

  1. Had to fix a friends round bale burning boiler today so no progress on the Detroitson. My girl and I are apart due to work and the ronAIDS so when she asked what I did the last couple days I was thrilled to tell her that I played with my shaft all day and it got 6 1/4” longer!
  2. Did you measure the crank for out of round? That -0.002” may have had room at the small (worn) part of the throw and been tight 90* to that. Also did you check the oil hole throw the throw was clear? On large ship engines we don’t necessarily “grind” a crank if it eats a bearing. These bearings are big as in 18” or larger. We will polish the crank with a contoured lapping block made for the purpose and install a new bearing of it measures good. They can be ground in place but you would have to cut the ship apart to remove the crank. We also have ~2mm clearance or ~0.078” so it can be in some ways more forgiving than a small engine however there is lots of crank flex hence the large clearance. I’m thinking you had a tight spot...
  3. This is the original clutch release fork. It just rubbed on a hardened washer on the Fordson clutch basket but also ran in the engine oil. Planing to make a sliding sleeve over the input shaft riding on bronze bushings with a Chevy throw out bearing against the clutch. I’m thinking I might dowel pin the sleeve to the clutch fork loosely to stop it rotating which would then allow me to drill an oil hole in the top between the bushings then attach a nice old brass drip oiler to where the old crankcase breather was and run a copper drip tube down to lube the bushings... not sure 100%, I’m winging it!
  4. Test fit done! Numbers worked out, the clutch spline is ~1/4” past the back of the disc splines and the pilot is at a nice depth! WOO HOO!!!
  5. Pushed together nice, used a little heat and a little convincing. Going to mock it up and double check my length as it was all taken by measurements. Much easier to fix before it’s welded...
  6. Yeah they should go together pretty easy with a little heat. I landed at right around 0.002” interference on those stubs. You posted while I was writing the last reply but ya, leaning towards TIG for reasons above also. We were also talking about using the hone oven. Heat to 600-650 with oxy/acetylene, weld, post heat then wrap in fibreglass cloth, place in the oven at 500 and reduce the heat over time. oh, that stub coupler is made from a transport trucks pinion shaft. Tough stuff to work with!
  7. ER70S which is mild steel filler is recommended for TIG welding. 7018 or 8018 seems common also due to being a low hydrogen electrode, haven’t used eutectic 680 before... I’m leaning towards TIG as my 7018 has NOT been stored properly as in a rod oven so moisture absorption is an issue which would introduce hydrogen to the weld... thanks and yes, the welds will need to be machined smooth not so much for balance but there will be a sliding sleeve surrounding the shaft running on bronze bushings I think is the plan. This will slide axially to operate the clutch release. Hopefully with proper post weld cooling the weld won’t be too hard. Worst case I have somewhere a crappy homemade tool post grinder that should put a decent finish on a hard shaft.
  8. Heading to the shop soon here, double check my measurements then press it together and prepare to weld. Gotta figure how I want to cool it... maybe fire blanket or set up a steel bucket with some sand. Looking at 600* preheat and slow cooling. Haven’t decided if I’m going to TIG it with mild steel filler which would be the process for TIG welding 4140 or stick weld it with 7018. It will require multiple passes regardless of which process I use also. Man was that some tough steel to machine!
  9. Eastern canukistan my rusty fren. Input shaft in the works today...
  10. Thanks! The truck is out and home. No damage but didn’t really care anyways as it’s on its last legs. Frame is soft real bad... might take it easy tonight then get after the input shaft serious tomorrow. Scored a nice shaft from a rig differential might work better... gonna be fun either way!
  11. So my truck has been here since Friday evening, spent the night in a friends barn and got drove home by snowmobile Saturday evening when the storm finally let up. Now the truck is plowed in pretty solid. Heading there now with a big tractor to recover it. Went off the road at maybe 5mph, real soft landing just couldn’t even see hardly past the hood. What a mess it’s been up here! That’s why no progress on the Detroitson. Hopefully this evening I’ll get to the shop and finish the input shaft...
  12. rings and gaskets arrived. Had to work on some other stuff last couple days. Hopefully got those jobs about finished up and should be gone this morning. I’m fighting with a Massey Harris pacer that needed carb, wiring and ignition work. It’s running but gotta clean the carb again and recheck float level. It runs wonky. Then I’ll be getting at the input shaft. I picked up a junkyard axle to splice the two together, hopefully I can cut and drill it with carbide... got the pacer running. Distributor advance was seized, distributor was seized in the block/holder and timing was out, bad condenser too. Runs ok now. Maybe tomorrow I can work on the Detroitson... rough few days for my own projects...
  13. Thanks Dave, we’re having a blast. Piston rings and gaskets should arrive this evening or tomorrow at the latest. Going to look for a scrap axle or something this morning to make the input shaft from. Heading to the shop after another coffee or three...
  14. That’s what make me think it happened at install... it’s supported once it’s seated in the block. The fire ring seals on that section also.
  15. Liner honing rn. The second engine was f-cucked... worn liners and overheated all out of round and rusty. AND THAT ENGINE RAN! Got ONE serviceable liner from that engine... the other engine had five nice sized liners however one (pictures below) has a tiny crack at the top register. The one good liner from the second engine makes 6 IF I use the cracked liner. To me this almost looks like it happened at install, these liners aren’t known to crack there as far as I know? It’s only on the thin lip of the flange and doesn’t propagate inwards beyond the lip. Think I’m done for today, was at the clutch pretty late last night. Hopefully start on machining the input shaft tomorrow. Gotta find a Chevy throw out bearing in my shed...
  16. Eyeing up the input and throw out. Coming up a little short on length. Probably grab a scrap truck axle from the junk yard cuz alloy steel and splice it in.
  17. Been poking and vacuuming the water jackets on this thing. Left bank was plugged solid on the outboard side. Had to have been overheating. Got most of it cleaned up now. Ideally would pressure wash everything but I don’t want to disassemble the entire block to get the crank out. Trying to keep the bottom end bearings clean enough I can wash down with diesel then reassemble also want to leave the patina (dirt) on the outside as much as possible...
  18. Flywheel machined, just need to index the clutch cover pattern and she’s done. Disc makes full contact now, clears the flywheel bolts too. Good to go.
  19. Liners out. Heat exchanger must have had a leak when this was in the boat, cooling jackets have a lot of sand in them...
  20. Dry clutch and I’m going to splice a Chevy spline to the Fordson input shaft. Then there will be a coaxial floating sleeve surrounding the input shaft which the Fordson fork will act on to push the Chevy diaphragm. got the pistons out of the second engine now. Just have to drive a friend to town then I’ll be pulling the liners. Parts are the n at the truck shop for the engine. Should be here Monday or Tuesday. Didn’t even ask how much and I should have... a set of rings was $80/hole and gasket set was around $300... ouch...
  21. Been a bit busy last few days but back at the shop today. Spent the morning cleaning up and found an 11” Chevy clutch and pressure plate. Going to have to face the Detroit flywheel as the the step doesn’t allow the whole friction to make contact. No biggie, it’ll be “light weight”... pulling the motor off the tractor next and going to remove the pistons and liners hopefully this afternoon.
  22. Old ~1930’s? Car back by the stairs too...
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