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Vinny407

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  1. I know the aux valves aren’t stuck, but never thought of the hitch. If the 3 pt isn’t maxed out in travel, the it shouldn’t be loaded? the engine only seems to be working hard when moving.
  2. It starts great. I can check pump timing to rule that out. As far as a brake or something else dragging, before I unhooked the foot pedal it would coast fine when depressed. If something was dragging enough to use 50 hp(guesstimate), I would think it would stop like dropping a plow. It sounds like I need to get it out and hook up the gauges to get some less generic details.
  3. I will check some pressures again, but write them down this time. Last year I checked servo and charge pressure before we got caught up in harvest. Also I capped the lines to the foot pedal with no effect. We would probably find someone else to pull the center if it comes to that. I don’t mind doing some wrenching from the outside but if the tractor gets split I would rather pass. I would hate to see it sit apart for months/years because I lost ambition or got pulled in other directions
  4. It’s a 1026. 12mph max speed. I can stop it with the brakes in low, gets easier as it warms up. The motor always seems to be loaded hard when the the tractor is moving ( turbo whistle and fair amount of smoke) even when just driving down the road.
  5. Are there any shops in the Wisconsin or northern Illinois that specialize in the big hydros? It’s not worth paying a shop to learn on their first one. I realize that to the people who are familiar with the hydros they are not a mystery and some simple diagnostics can be done. Kansas seems to be the place to go, but that’s pretty far away.
  6. I remember the bearing being between the shoulder and the pulley, but it has been 20 years since I did one.
  7. I am not sure if this is quite the same as the box on the 820’s, but we always cut/wash the bearing out first With the torch. That makes the pulley finger tight.
  8. Thanks for the part numbers. That is definitely the way to go. The one dealer was looking, but the other one told me to just use a couple dozen in-line ones!!
  9. I will try to poke a couple out, however it looks like the plastic is melted slightly too. The dealer here is trying to get individual part numbers for the terminals and blocks from CNH support , but I haven’t heard back yet
  10. We have a 2577 combine that has given us some intermittent electrical problems. It was bought at a consignment sale. After chasing random problems with the field tracker, the unloading circuit, the radio, engine shutdown, etc, we realized that when checking a fuse for a problem, something else would stop working. It seems that a lot of the clips that hold the fuses are too relaxed to hold tight. My fat knuckles were hitting the nearby fuses and they would lose contact. I found a couple wire jumpers that the prior owner had made to bypass fuses that blew. I think that is what cooked the fuse blocks. Are there any good options here? I was going to get some marine fuse blocks and redo it all, but I am afraid I will make a mess that nobody else will be able to decipher. I could try to get used ones from the salvage yard with long enough pigtails to butt connect. The existing clips didn’t seem removable drone the fuse blocks. Any suggestions or experiences?
  11. Just so everyone understands... Don’t go out of your way to get the Detroit. For the same money take the 466 or any 855 Cummins. My personal experience is that the pair of trucks with 8v71s we got to replace the c65 with the 427 and the loadstar 1800 with the 446 was a winner. Detroit diesels have no torque compared to other diesels, but will outlug a gasser anything. The road ranger trannys need credit too. There is always a gear that is low enough. No more flooring it toward the road from the field then rolling back if there was a car coming. I would never advocate a Detroit for an all day, all week, all year sort of job, but for most of our harvests, you won’t be in the seat for more than a couple hours a day for a few weeks.
  12. I am going to go against the grain here... If you are considering a truck with a gasser or the effort of swapping in a power stroke, don’t overlook the 2 stroke Detroits. There are plenty of better/less annoying diesels out there, but a 20 ft tandem with a Detroit and air brakes will bring less at auction than a similar condition gas and half of what the same truck with a Cummins would sell at. The Detroits are reliable. You can count on them to run, roar, leak, smoke, but still run. Still beats a gas any day for me. We are all talking about short hauls here anyway. Otherwise this discussion would be about hopper bottoms.
  13. It might just be our area. Short fields and lots of boulders. The plow is either in deep or the resets are tripped. Most people have went no till, including me.
  14. Does anyone here have anything good to say about draft control? I am currently working through a 585 that won’t lower. Some sort of unnecessary spring/rod dufacocockus won’t push the drop valve back after the position lever is moved. This is the current problem... also have a 1086 with a cracked torque tube in the shed, and a 7230 with a bad transducer sleeve. it seems that this feature adds more grief than benefit when most people leave the lever in heavy to disable the system. Furthermore, when plowing, as far as ground prep is concerned, why would you want to shallow up when the dirt gets hard? I would only understand if you were getting paid by the acre regardless of the result. What are your thoughts...
  15. As a follow up.... I put the undersized arm on today. Had to drive it on with a big hammer just to get the nut started. It seemed very adequately tight. I had to jerk the 2 foot handle on the ratchet the whole way down. The blocky style looks a little weird compared to the original, but you can only look at one side at a time anyhow.
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