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Vinny407

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About Vinny407

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  1. Just so everyone understands... Don’t go out of your way to get the Detroit. For the same money take the 466 or any 855 Cummins. My personal experience is that the pair of trucks with 8v71s we got to replace the c65 with the 427 and the loadstar 1800 with the 446 was a winner. Detroit diesels have no torque compared to other diesels, but will outlug a gasser anything. The road ranger trannys need credit too. There is always a gear that is low enough. No more flooring it toward the road from the field then rolling back if there was a car coming. I would never advocate a Detroit for an all day, all week, all year sort of job, but for most of our harvests, you won’t be in the seat for more than a couple hours a day for a few weeks.
  2. I am going to go against the grain here... If you are considering a truck with a gasser or the effort of swapping in a power stroke, don’t overlook the 2 stroke Detroits. There are plenty of better/less annoying diesels out there, but a 20 ft tandem with a Detroit and air brakes will bring less at auction than a similar condition gas and half of what the same truck with a Cummins would sell at. The Detroits are reliable. You can count on them to run, roar, leak, smoke, but still run. Still beats a gas any day for me. We are all talking about short hauls here anyway. Otherwise this discussion would be about hopper bottoms.
  3. It might just be our area. Short fields and lots of boulders. The plow is either in deep or the resets are tripped. Most people have went no till, including me.
  4. Does anyone here have anything good to say about draft control? I am currently working through a 585 that won’t lower. Some sort of unnecessary spring/rod dufacocockus won’t push the drop valve back after the position lever is moved. This is the current problem... also have a 1086 with a cracked torque tube in the shed, and a 7230 with a bad transducer sleeve. it seems that this feature adds more grief than benefit when most people leave the lever in heavy to disable the system. Furthermore, when plowing, as far as ground prep is concerned, why would you want to shallow up when the dirt gets hard? I would only understand if you were getting paid by the acre regardless of the result. What are your thoughts...
  5. As a follow up.... I put the undersized arm on today. Had to drive it on with a big hammer just to get the nut started. It seemed very adequately tight. I had to jerk the 2 foot handle on the ratchet the whole way down. The blocky style looks a little weird compared to the original, but you can only look at one side at a time anyhow.
  6. I think that is what I will try. For 38 dollars delivered, it is worth a shot. I can always weld that one on if I need to. The one coming off is so loose that I can move the tie rod end up and down over an inch. Thanks to everyone for the input. It is nice to here individual experiences.
  7. what are the options for a sloppy arm on the heavy duty axle? 405460R1 is the part number. Would the undersized 531249 work even though it looks “blocky” compared to the original. The product descriptions of aftermarket are vague at best.
  8. I know it doesn’t change cranking speed, but didn’t someone use some magic modified glow plugs from a powerstroke in the 282?
  9. I consider my two stroke oil to be an end of life treatment. Rebuilding the motor wouldn’t change the value of scrap iron. Symptoms in my grain truck came right back with a fresh tank of straight gas. My theory is that a certain amount of oil is going to make it past the rings or fill the scuffs and scratches in the cylinder walls, so it might as well come from the top down. 2 stroke oil will cause fouling, but not as fast as engine oil. A snowmobile can run several hundred gallons of mix before the plugs are bad, and that is with 4 times less cylinders. It has worked for me in the past, but may not do anything in this H situation
  10. Seems to bring back compression and seal up worn rings. Any extra lube there can’t hurt. It is oil that is meant to be burned, so it doesn’t cause smoke. My personal experience ( besides a couple lawnmowers) was a late 70s Loadstar grain truck with a well used 446 in it. It always had trouble starting and would pull oil when low gearing down the hill to the elevator. It would smoke so bad you couldn’t see past the back of the truck. After the two stroke oil, it would start, the smoke on the hill was gone, and 3rd gear would actually hold the truck back without riding the brake.
  11. In my experience, a little outboard 2 stroke oil does wonders for getting by with worn rings. Pour in a quart for every 20 or 30 gallons. I don’t know if there could be any negative consequences, but what is there to lose.
  12. I would never do pvc. All the other options will just rupture vs. shatter
  13. I can see the point of not using anything plastic based when heat and molten metal are involved. What I like about the pex is adding a drop anywhere anytime only takes a few minutes with a couple tools. I know working pressure is around 160psi, but have been told that burst is over 400. That beats any of the hoses we have attached.
  14. Anybody here use just the normal PEX? I have been running some lines at work. Using the 10 ft sticks instead of the rolls it looks pretty nice. All of the fittings and pinch clamps are available at any home improvement store. I am just wondering if there are some drawbacks I am not considering...
  15. Just wondering...why does the dash color matter?
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