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Everything posted by Farmtruck1

  1. Thanks again. Think I may let the local injector shop reseal this one. Not a lot of replacement parts out there if I mess it up ?
  2. @65806 I'm assuming your RD pump manual walks one through replacing the shaft seals? Turns out I'm not leaking off the back inspection cover, but from the rear side of the shaft seal...
  3. Picked up an 806 from a local dairy farmer who got done milking. Has a leak off the back of the injector pump on the return line. Looks like the pump needs to come off to replace a grommet... Anyone one know the timing procedure for removing/installing an RD pump? Seems a little different from the stanadyne roosa pumps I remember.
  4. Very nice, looks better than the stock power steering assist
  5. Still a couple little things to do along with putting the canopy back on, but she's back in business!
  6. Yeah the idler itself will pop off with a puller. If you need to remove the whole thing you have to get the retaining bolt off the shaft behind the idler. Will likely take lots of heat and then a slide hammer.
  7. Ended up using a puller and it of course came right off. Just wanted to be sure before I used force, parts are hard to find on this thing. Resealed the two leaky idlers. Finally got everything finished up today and took her out for a test drive in the snow and ice. Looks like everything works as it should, can spin the tracks for sure. Will get the floor back in and side covers tomorrow when I'm sure there's no leaks.
  8. So I can't figure out how to pull this idler so I can replace the weeping seal. Book says it just slides off but it doesn't seem to...
  9. Thanks. Still slowly slogging forwards, fixing other peoples stuff sure leaves less time for toys. Clutch was a pain to install, ready to not be working below my feet. 85W140 oil likely best in the Finals and Trans?
  10. Steering clutches are back in. Need to get the other brake band in. Hoping to finish up this week barring any more delays...
  11. So UPS really sucks... Week or so wait for another adjuster ring... Have parts for everything else though and will begin reassembling steering clutches next week. Also found some variance between different vendor's bearing crosses. One is obviously much better quality ?
  12. Still slowly going through and making parts that are no longer available. Looks like I will have an engine clutch assembly and all the bearings/seals I need next week, which is good as I'm running out of little things to do...
  13. I can get you measurements if you want to message me what you need for a recore?
  14. I'd like to help you out on this and I feel bad saying no, but this isn't a spare I'd be willing to part with. Just too damn hard to find these things. The only thing I'd part out is the powershift transmission/accessories. You could likely recore yours for less than a replacment?
  15. Got some quality time in with the old girl this weekend. Valves adjusted, injectors in, turbo on, engine leaks fixed. Got in a good laugh when my wife asked what I doing with vasoline and a dozer ? Hoping to finally get in an engine clutch and bearings next week from fpsmith....
  16. Thanks! The current snap-on truck tried to sell me a "metric" adjustable set to match my sae set ?. They do make great tools though. I was lucky enough to inherit a good collection and I bought up quite a bit of inventory from a snap-on franchisee going out of business Still waiting on parts... The large adjustable wasn't cutting it and was too deep for a hub socket, so I picked this up on ebay for $50. Kinda ridiculous but it did the job.
  17. Been waiting on parts so not too much progress lately. Took a look at the leak off the injectors and found them mismatched... 2x3/4 style and 4x9/16 style ie different opening pressures. Pulled the matching injectors off the parts machine and will test before installing. Yanked the precups too, blind hole puller makes this an easy job.
  18. That does make sense. Most of the discs are about .004 more worn on one side than the other. Got one side degreased and cleaned off. Sitting at about 94% of new stack height. The other side has more wear to the bimetallics but the steels are ok. Think I'll order 12 bimetallic and then run 6 new/6 used in spec per side. Going to be some costly parts orders next week...
  19. That is one unhappy looking truck Must have been a fun ride. This should be a cool build. Amazing how little rust you guys have out west.
  20. Thanks for the ideas folks! Amazing the service book doesn't have the disc specs in there beyond a count. Maybe the discs were a standard size at the time and they just assume you know? Have spoken to General Gear, super helpful business and they have several items I need. I was given figures of .158 for the bimetallics and .1 for the steel discs. So with 12 bimetallic and 11 steel we've got a stack height of 2.966. Interestingly I was told the discs generally wear unevenly from one side towards the other. Going to have to clean and mic my discs along w checking flatness, but many look reusable. Done disassembling the dozer, lots of parts to wash/clean up now. Pulled the pinion shafts and bearing cups to get into the seals, likely replacing the bearings too. If they don't tap out with a slide hammer you have to remove the plug and then can use a puller. They put a set of rather large nuts on the back to retain the bearing...
  21. That's one toasted starter. Had a starter fail after an inframe once, turned the engine over twice without catching and then went crunch. Gave me a good few minutes of panic.
  22. Thanks, it was a real pain getting it out with a broken retainer. Have any spring retainers? I think I lucked out on the steering clutch discs. These don't look like fiber. I think I can clean off bimetallic and re-use? Anyone know the specs for thickness on the metal plates and the friction discs?
  23. Yeah I bet that was almost as much fun as I've had Got the damn thing out today after much cajoling. Looks like I'll need a spring retainer. Should be able to start ordering parts tomorrow for the rear.
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