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greasetomyelbows

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  1. OK, I'm back to the tractor tomorrow morning after lots of distractions. As far as I can see from what you are all telling me: These will cause trouble with stuck valves if I let the machine sit for long periods (and I will ); May cause valve trouble anyway by starting the stems of lubricant; They are not right for the application; Given all new valves, seats and guides there should be no need for these seals; Therefore, I am better off to go bare. In short, not only is there noting to worry about if I just trash them, but also, I'll actually be better off. Am I getting this right? Anybody disagree -- especially based on experience? With gratitude for your time and expertise Joe
  2. The seals supplied by Steiner look much like the Messick umbrellas, except for the small teflon insert. Unfortunately, it is the intake springs that are too tight for them. They are PN: IHS 4737 at Steiner. See below
  3. The valves have rubber (??) seals with Teflon cores. They slide over the guides and are tight to the shafts. Not sure what the original spec called for, but they look like the parts catalog. The intake springs have umbrella-shaped upper seats, while the exhaust springs are topped with rotators.
  4. Friends: Started this on another thread and received excellent advice on a few points from Snoshoe and others. That thread was running very long so moved to here. Have hit a thorny very frustrating problem. Bought all-new valve set from Steiner including springs and seals. Was happily installing them last weekend when I learned that the supplied intake springs have a smaller ID than do the exhaust springs. So much so that they WILL NOT fit over the seals without being forced -- and if that is done, they'll just pull out or wear out the seals in no time. I referred to the original parts manual, and sure enough, all 8 valves have seals -- and of course, if ANY were to have them, they would be the intake valves. Called Steiner and got a tech on the phone. We crossed the original part numbers on the seals and springs to the numbers on the replacements sent by Steiner. According to the book, they are the right ones. He was nice enough to check other suppliers and found the same part numbers crossing to theirs, but no ID or OD dimensions that would let us know if anything was different. Of course, Steiner stands behind the parts and will happily process a return, but I still need intake springs. The old springs do fit, but they are 50 yrs. old and I am not sure I still have all four (pulled them a year ago). So what advice can you better more experienced tractor men and women offer? Try to get by with the old (if they can all be found)? Try to find a smaller seal (where and how)? Whittle down the OD of the rubber part of the seal? Try a different supplier just to see? Something else?
  5. The seals fit snugly and I just checked and found them listed in the parts catalog.
  6. There is a bit of space in the seats, which also concerned me. If Steiner lacks the right ones, I wonder if it is a bad idea to re-use the 50 yr old ones that fit?
  7. Snowshoe and others: Finally rounded up the parts and got access to the friends shop where my tractor is. We were installing springs seats caps etc this morning. Exhaust side went smoothly. Then we discovered that the newly purchased intake springs have to be forced over the stem seals. Lots force and twisting. It seemed wrong. Wouldn't tight springs dislodge the seals or maybe wear them quickly? Perhaps steiner sent wrong springs? Any thoughts? Btw.we are.asUming that the more Tightly coiled end of the spring is the bottom?
  8. Yes, if I had a press... This tractor will probably see fewer than 10 aggregate days of work a year: mow 4 acres of pasture six times; move round bales every two weeks for half an hour and once a year for half a day; couple or three days of pulling logs out of the woods; couple of days with the box blade; couple days of general whatever. I intend to put it in good shape, paint it, and enjoy it, but it will have an easy life. That said, if you had to pick two valves to do without, would you think it mattered more on exhaust or intake, or doesn't matter? Thank you for your time and advice. It is helpful and I appreciate it. Cheers! J
  9. Thanks, Snoshoe -- I follow you. My concern is that two of mine have been lost. I have only six. Looked all over the place and cannot find more. Do you think I should wait to re-assemble the engine until I have a full set?
  10. Interesting -- but I only have 6 cups. is that a problem? J
  11. Head not installed yet, but I am not going to be near it until Saturday. It would make sense for those two parts to be separate - especially because there were two extras that he just stuck on top -- which is what aroused suspicions in the first place. If the cups go UNDER the springs, I am short two of them. Might be a trick to find more. Right now the springs rest on flat washers. Joe
  12. Oh excellent and thanks. Is there any way to check rotators? Right now, they rotate. Anything else to do before simply reinstalling? Cheers! J
  13. Roger the need for pix. See below: Black background image has both kinds of retainer I took off the springs: the one on top is the two-piece one; the piece with only a hole touches the spring, and the other one fits through it and is held down by the retainer. The lower one is the one with bearing that I have subsequently determined is a rotator and so belongs on the exhaust valve not the intake valve where the knucklehead installed it. The thing between my fingers is another view of the rotator. The dark band around the valve face is where I abraded it with lapping compound. Verdicts? Joe
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