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Hojon

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  1. Other pump is same just plain cover , NO IH or A, . While we are talking, why are all the pictures unavailable from back in the early 2000's ? I just got started on crawlers and could use the photos.
  2. Mr. Rustred, that is not the pump that I have. Mine bolts through from the front of the block, must remove 3 cap screws through slots in the pump gear and a nutted stud and a cap screw from inside to remove the pump. I do not know how to post pictures or I would. 53 pump # 65306DA201 serial 63376 Large A cast into inspection cover. 43 injection pump 65306D1 serial 3556. Tractor original serial number TDBK9533T7CM, very late 1943. Hope this helps
  3. And I forgot to thank you for the quick reply. Thank you RustRed
  4. Not sure as to what the different types look like. The one on the tractor is plain top and bottom no pressure gage. The injectors came off the 53 with an A on the pump. The lines are also from the 53, and will match up with pump and injector fittings, once I swap out the pump side screw in fittings. The A pump has a pressure gage.
  5. If its running on gas, that's good. what i think was implied was if its in diesel mode its hard for the started to crank. found mouse or what evers nest in the diesel side intake on mine. The butter flys trip the gound to the coil or mag on the end of the intake. gas side of intake will not supply enough air for the diesel. good luck
  6. I have a 43 and a 53 IHC TD6. Had the injectors of the 53 (checked out), cleaned and metered. I Installed them in my 43 head that starts on gas. The steel line tubes are different on the ends and how they seal. Can I unscrew/remove the threaded adaptor parts on the High pressure injector pump and swap with the 53's. The 43 has tapered and smaller collars. The 53 drops into both the injector and pump with a squared off tube and welded shoulder that the jam nut tightens on, and the line fittings came of the 53. IF I REMOVE THE FITTINGS ON THE PUMP TO SWAP THEM OUT, are parts , springs and stuff liable to fly out. Tractor is on my trailer out in the dirt, at a friends ranch.??????? Ordered all 3 Jensales manuals today, but am anxious to see if it will run on diesel, do not want to watt until the new year for the manuals.
  7. Looking for pistons, rings and sleeves for TD6....D248.... presently 3 and 7/8 bore, can go to 4.0 bore I think.

    any help please Dennis Best. Dennisbest4503@sbcglobal.net

  8. Can the tips be unsoldered and swapped to other lines that the treaded fittings work with to match up injectors and the pump? I have a 43 TD6 with a D248 engine and the injectors leak and do not work. I bought a 53 TD6 that looked to be in better shape to fined out the engine was toast, compression less than 30 PSI. I removed and had the injectors cleaned and checked here in Modesto, from the 53 and Installed them on the 43 that was running on gasoline but not diesel. The high preasure steel lines going from pump to injectors do not thread correctly. Different barrel ends and tips.
  9. Merry CHRITMAS to all of my track friends, tire tractors is like driving an automatic, no skill needed, start and go.
  10. I have moved, #1 to the valley of Tracy, Ca. from the valley of Medford , Oregon. Swapped out injectors from #2 and for got the lines in Oregon. Its covered, drained and waiting for spring, #1 1943 TD6, #2 is a 1953 TD6, it is way worn out in the engine compartment, 30# compression across all 4 cylinders. Carriage is i would guess 60%, grousers 75% on narrow plates. Sorry have not learned how to add pictures yet.
  11. My 53 TD6 was 30 psi across all four holes. Removed head, water damage in 1 and 4, water jacket on head gasket blown 3 of 4 holes. Heavy taper in all 4 holes. Needs real help. Oiled drained pan is loose but must lift carriage to remove cross spring and get to pan and rod bolts. Long Long Long way to go......cyliders, pistons rings bearings , rods and mains, and still do not know about the running gear. This could be a MONEY PIT. But i am 71 and have SS to fix it with. LOL
  12. If your crawler is a gas over diesel, I took an old spark plug and welded a harbor freight airline fitting to it and added a shraider valve to it.
  13. yes and no. Need to raise and remove the equalizer spring assy. That is what Russ recommends. Then it should drop straight down.
  14. My pan bolts are all out the pan moves and giggles, but wont come down. It does not hit the cross spring. What am I over looking? Compression and leak down was bad . 100 in only measured 30. Blown head gasket, heavy ridge in cylinders , need to ridge ream to remove pistons, tool is on the way for that. Need source for rings, std 3 and 7/8 bore. Had McCord 6160 head gasket ?????? Its a play thing not needed to do heavy work. Any help or insight is appreciated .
  15. Mr. B, I read your reply about 6 and 12 volt batteries. If I under stood correctly, both cables from the battery should end up on the starter. one hot one ground.

    Meaning ground cable to starter from battery , being better than just grounding to a shinny spot on the tractor, under a nut and bolt.?

    Thanks in advance.

    1. Willie B

      Willie B

      Most machines depend on the iron of the tractor to complete the circuit. In old machines some of those points where the electron's current path depend on metal to metal contact, paint, rust, grease, & dirt interfere with the current flow. 

      If the starter does the same job in 6 or 12 volts we are talking watts (the unit of measurement of total power) 

      If voltage (think of it as torque) is reduced, amperage (think of it as flow rate)must increase.

      If you buy cables made for a 12 volt system they will be smaller gauge wire. A 12 volt starter might draw 200 amps to start, a 6 volt might draw 400. 

      Good, heavy cables, two good identical batteries wired in parallel, two solenoid relays, and "ground" run from battery to the starter frame will improve starter function, and reduce amperage needed to crank. 

      People convert to 12 volt systems, when cleaning up ALL the connections, heavier cables, directly run would solve the problem.

      My 1940 Farmall M starts reliably in all weather conditions.

       

    2. Hojon

      Hojon

      thank you very much. Well explained.

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