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About Kentuckydiesel

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  1. My TD340A came with a Delco 10DN style externally regulated alternator that appeared to be new. I thought about switching to a internally regulated alternator, but since I don't think this one had even been wired up before, I decided to just get a voltage regulator and use this one. I'm using a VR715 regulator, but need to know about the wiring to the #4 terminal. The diagrams I have seen say there is supposed to be a bulb or resistor between the ignition switch and #4 terminal. Is this required? If so, what size resistor do I need? Thanks, Phillip
  2. It's one thing to break/throw a rod due to being wound too tight, but it is plain unusual to break rod bolts. Have you ever seen any of the newer style rod bolts break, or was this specifically an issue with the older style? I definitely don't mind changing them if I can find something I know to be stronger like a set of ARP rod bolts. Thanks, Phillip
  3. I was just asking, since I have the newer style bolts without the notched heads, if there was any reason they had to be changed. Thanks, Phillip
  4. After learning more on here about thrown rods from some of the weak "notched head" rod bolts on the D166, I wanted to make sure I wasn't going to have any of those kind of problems on my little TD340A. Last time I changed the oil, I put a scope up into the pan to see if I could tell if the connecting rod bolts were the notched-head style. From what I could tell, the bolt heads looked like they had regular grade 8 markings rather than notches. I still couldn't help but worry about it every time I ran the little dozer, so yesterday I went ahead and dropped the pan to be sure. From what I understand, these are the rod bolts with the strength issues stemming from cut threads: As it turns out, I have a different style rod bolt that supposedly was used on the D166, D188, D236, D282, DT282, and D301: These appear to be properly made bolts with rolled threads. Any reason to change them? Any known issues with thrown rods due to bad rod bolts on those other models? Thanks, Phillip
  5. Probably just need the steering clutches adjusted. Check to see how much adjuster bolt is sticking out on either side below the seat. You likely just need to loosen the lock nuts and tighten the adjuster bolt (clockwise) for each side in 1/2 turn at a time like MMI was saying. Do 1/2 turn adjustment on both sides. If it still slips, do 1/2 turn more and so on until it doesn't slip anymore. If you end up having to go in too far with the adjusters on either side, you can also check the single adjuster bolt under your seat. It will be the one with a keeper and a small retainer bolt next to it that prevents it from turning. Unlike the adjusters on either side of the seat, this one has to be "loosened" (turned counter-clockwise) to increase clutch pressure. If it comes out of the hole when you try to turn it counter clockwise, it is likely an earlier model that had a spring clip that is damaged or has come off. The later models used pins that tended to hold better. Below is a picture from someone else's post showing what you're looking for for the steering clutch adjustment bolts on either side. Unfortunately I don't have a picture of the one under the seat, but it isn't hard to find. -Phillip
  6. Taking MMI's advice to get out and work my newly acquired TD340A before diving into any major tear downs/rebuilds, after changing fluids/filters and a couple months of fixing just the most important things as I had spare time, I finally put my little dozer to work. I had a large hard pile of dirt left over from digging a pond some years back. I never got to grade the pile out into the dam as I had planned, so this seemed like a perfect test run. It started out pushing okay, but the steering clutches would slip under a heavy load. After a few tweaks to the steering clutch adjustments, it was finally pushing well enough that it would either slip the tracks or kill the engine. Steering is great on the left side. Right side takes alot of effort, so I will readjust and see if it gets better. If not, I will do that rebuild in the near future. Before that day, I had been hesitant to do any work with the little dozer at all before tearing into the reverser as it took alot of effort to hold it in reverse, and even then, it would usually pop out under any kind of load such as backing up a hill. Man am I glad I did go out and work it first. As it turns out, the reverse collar must be a bit nicked up on the leading side because, while it felt like it wouldn't hold reverse as I was testing the dozer in the lot around the garage, once I got out there and started putting a load on it, it started going all the way into reverse and holding just fine. Now, if for some reason it doesn't want to go all the way into reverse, I just bump the clutch in forward and it will usually drop right into reverse. That saved me from splitting it for no reason. To my surprise, this little dozer that once belched so much white smoke that I was worried about someone seeing it from the road and calling in a structure fire, completely cleared up after a new fuel filter, a freshly cleaned fuel tank, and a few gallons of fuel treated with Power Service Diesel Kleen run through it. I was so happy with how everything was working once I got the steering clutches adjusted in that I was tempted to just run right through this project without stopping to check everything out. Luckily, about halfway through I decided I should at least step off the machine to check for leaks. As it turned out, one of the fittings on the line to the oil pressure gauge was loose and dripping oil. Glad I stopped to look then because I caught it before the oil level went below the add mark on the dipstick. I guess I'm about ready to put the hood back on and give it some paint now. I do have a couple questions though: For the D-166, what operating temperature is normal under fairly continuous heaving loading? Do you guys have any tips as far as limits for operating on slopes? Does this model have any issue with oil pickup or similar issues going up, down, or across slopes? Thanks, Phillip
  7. I recently ordered a service manual from Jensales after calling them to confirm the manual covered the later A series. I was told that it did, so I put in my order. About a week later I finally had time to go through the manual and found that it didn't cover the A series at all. I sent them an e-mail to let them know what the problem was and was told that there was never a service manual that covered the A series. My parts manual is a TC-77B which clearly says it supersedes the TC-77A (which I assume didn't cover the A series). Did they not do this with service manuals too? Thanks, Phillip
  8. I was going to make a set of bushings, but McMaster Carr had some that were almost what I wanted. I think 4.25" wide would have been better, but i decided to try the 4" width since they're easy to change if I don't like them. The only trick is, you'll have to bore your idlers to fit the 2" OD bushings and seals. Here are the parts I used. Main bushings are part number 7965K55 Seals are 5154T842 Thrust Washers are 7447K32 I will keep y'all posted on how these work out. -Phillip
  9. Been busy lately, but I finally got the front idlers back together. The idler pins needed some attention as they were a bit grooved on either side, so I built them up then turned them back down and polished them. I wasn't a big fan of the original idler hub bushing/seal design, so I decided to go back with something a little different. I am now using nearly full width 1/4" wall thickness bushings with oiling grooves and proper oil seals on either side of the bushings. With the oiling grooves, they have a hole drilled in them to allow oil into the bushing. I also went with 3/16" thick oilite thrust washers on either side of the hub. They are cheap and easy to replace, so we'll see how that works out. They turned out great...nice, tight, and smooth spinning now. We'll see how this setup holds up. -Phillip
  10. I did just see that the guy I bought mine from still hasn't taken the ad off Craigslist. -Phillip
  11. Mine isn't up for sale. Got alot if work for it to do. Spent part of Saturday building up and turning the front idler shafts. Will probably press the new bushings in the idlers tomorrow. -Phillip
  12. Is there a tolerance range for movement in the finals? (I know, I need a service manual) Being straight ball bearings, they can't be as tight as tapered bearings would be. In my experience, I would call one side pretty good, while the other may have one bearing a little out of spec. Thanks, Phillip
  13. Didn't get to pop the top yet but you make a good point. Maybe I'll just check the pads with a bore scope. Thanks, Phillip
  14. Yea, it can get hard to keep dropping money in old equipment when it seems like it's constantly needing something. Too bad the ones that get scrapped weren't passed along to someone who might use the parts instead. I'm hoping if I get the bearings and such right to start with on this machine, it should be fairly reliable. It really doesn't seem to have much wear on anything...just seems like the idlers got run dry for quite a while. Thanks for all the help so far! -Phillip
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