Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

Kentuckydiesel's Achievements


Member (2/3)



  1. I was able to download the service manual for free at steeringclutch.com, but haven't been able to find an operator's manual without paying too much money to one of these scan and sell companies. Anyone have an electronic copy of the operator's manual for a 1963 175 loader? Thanks, Phillip
  2. I couldn't get a good picture of the female side with everything still together. That said, I don't have any issue with it popping out of forward so at least the front part of the female side is good.
  3. My TD340-A has been popping out of reverse more and more lately. I pulled the cover and everything is moving as it should but there's clearly wear on the reverse gear teeth. Eventually I will split the machine and replace the gear and coupler but I have some projects I need to get done before I can take it out of service. Has anyone had any luck reshaping the teeth or spacing the coupler ring back on the shift collar as a temporary fix? Does anyone have a picture of what the reverse gear teeth are supposed to look like? Thanks, Phillip
  4. My TD340A came with a Delco 10DN style externally regulated alternator that appeared to be new. I thought about switching to a internally regulated alternator, but since I don't think this one had even been wired up before, I decided to just get a voltage regulator and use this one. I'm using a VR715 regulator, but need to know about the wiring to the #4 terminal. The diagrams I have seen say there is supposed to be a bulb or resistor between the ignition switch and #4 terminal. Is this required? If so, what size resistor do I need? Thanks, Phillip
  5. It's one thing to break/throw a rod due to being wound too tight, but it is plain unusual to break rod bolts. Have you ever seen any of the newer style rod bolts break, or was this specifically an issue with the older style? I definitely don't mind changing them if I can find something I know to be stronger like a set of ARP rod bolts. Thanks, Phillip
  6. I was just asking, since I have the newer style bolts without the notched heads, if there was any reason they had to be changed. Thanks, Phillip
  7. After learning more on here about thrown rods from some of the weak "notched head" rod bolts on the D166, I wanted to make sure I wasn't going to have any of those kind of problems on my little TD340A. Last time I changed the oil, I put a scope up into the pan to see if I could tell if the connecting rod bolts were the notched-head style. From what I could tell, the bolt heads looked like they had regular grade 8 markings rather than notches. I still couldn't help but worry about it every time I ran the little dozer, so yesterday I went ahead and dropped the pan to be sure. From what I understand, these are the rod bolts with the strength issues stemming from cut threads: As it turns out, I have a different style rod bolt that supposedly was used on the D166, D188, D236, D282, DT282, and D301: These appear to be properly made bolts with rolled threads. Any reason to change them? Any known issues with thrown rods due to bad rod bolts on those other models? Thanks, Phillip
  • Create New...