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About Kentuckydiesel

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  1. I couldn't get a good picture of the female side with everything still together. That said, I don't have any issue with it popping out of forward so at least the front part of the female side is good.
  2. My TD340-A has been popping out of reverse more and more lately. I pulled the cover and everything is moving as it should but there's clearly wear on the reverse gear teeth. Eventually I will split the machine and replace the gear and coupler but I have some projects I need to get done before I can take it out of service. Has anyone had any luck reshaping the teeth or spacing the coupler ring back on the shift collar as a temporary fix? Does anyone have a picture of what the reverse gear teeth are supposed to look like? Thanks, Phillip
  3. My TD340A came with a Delco 10DN style externally regulated alternator that appeared to be new. I thought about switching to a internally regulated alternator, but since I don't think this one had even been wired up before, I decided to just get a voltage regulator and use this one. I'm using a VR715 regulator, but need to know about the wiring to the #4 terminal. The diagrams I have seen say there is supposed to be a bulb or resistor between the ignition switch and #4 terminal. Is this required? If so, what size resistor do I need? Thanks, Phillip
  4. It's one thing to break/throw a rod due to being wound too tight, but it is plain unusual to break rod bolts. Have you ever seen any of the newer style rod bolts break, or was this specifically an issue with the older style? I definitely don't mind changing them if I can find something I know to be stronger like a set of ARP rod bolts. Thanks, Phillip
  5. I was just asking, since I have the newer style bolts without the notched heads, if there was any reason they had to be changed. Thanks, Phillip
  6. After learning more on here about thrown rods from some of the weak "notched head" rod bolts on the D166, I wanted to make sure I wasn't going to have any of those kind of problems on my little TD340A. Last time I changed the oil, I put a scope up into the pan to see if I could tell if the connecting rod bolts were the notched-head style. From what I could tell, the bolt heads looked like they had regular grade 8 markings rather than notches. I still couldn't help but worry about it every time I ran the little dozer, so yesterday I went ahead and dropped the pan to be sure. From what
  7. Probably just need the steering clutches adjusted. Check to see how much adjuster bolt is sticking out on either side below the seat. You likely just need to loosen the lock nuts and tighten the adjuster bolt (clockwise) for each side in 1/2 turn at a time like MMI was saying. Do 1/2 turn adjustment on both sides. If it still slips, do 1/2 turn more and so on until it doesn't slip anymore. If you end up having to go in too far with the adjusters on either side, you can also check the single adjuster bolt under your seat. It will be the one with a keeper and a small retainer bolt nex
  8. Taking MMI's advice to get out and work my newly acquired TD340A before diving into any major tear downs/rebuilds, after changing fluids/filters and a couple months of fixing just the most important things as I had spare time, I finally put my little dozer to work. I had a large hard pile of dirt left over from digging a pond some years back. I never got to grade the pile out into the dam as I had planned, so this seemed like a perfect test run. It started out pushing okay, but the steering clutches would slip under a heavy load. After a few tweaks to the steering clutch adjustments, it wa
  9. I recently ordered a service manual from Jensales after calling them to confirm the manual covered the later A series. I was told that it did, so I put in my order. About a week later I finally had time to go through the manual and found that it didn't cover the A series at all. I sent them an e-mail to let them know what the problem was and was told that there was never a service manual that covered the A series. My parts manual is a TC-77B which clearly says it supersedes the TC-77A (which I assume didn't cover the A series). Did they not do this with service manuals too?
  10. I was going to make a set of bushings, but McMaster Carr had some that were almost what I wanted. I think 4.25" wide would have been better, but i decided to try the 4" width since they're easy to change if I don't like them. The only trick is, you'll have to bore your idlers to fit the 2" OD bushings and seals. Here are the parts I used. Main bushings are part number 7965K55 Seals are 5154T842 Thrust Washers are 7447K32 I will keep y'all posted on how these work out. -Phillip
  11. Been busy lately, but I finally got the front idlers back together. The idler pins needed some attention as they were a bit grooved on either side, so I built them up then turned them back down and polished them. I wasn't a big fan of the original idler hub bushing/seal design, so I decided to go back with something a little different. I am now using nearly full width 1/4" wall thickness bushings with oiling grooves and proper oil seals on either side of the bushings. With the oiling grooves, they have a hole drilled in them to allow oil into the bushing. I also went with 3/16" t
  12. I did just see that the guy I bought mine from still hasn't taken the ad off Craigslist. -Phillip
  13. Mine isn't up for sale. Got alot if work for it to do. Spent part of Saturday building up and turning the front idler shafts. Will probably press the new bushings in the idlers tomorrow. -Phillip
  14. Is there a tolerance range for movement in the finals? (I know, I need a service manual) Being straight ball bearings, they can't be as tight as tapered bearings would be. In my experience, I would call one side pretty good, while the other may have one bearing a little out of spec. Thanks, Phillip
  15. Didn't get to pop the top yet but you make a good point. Maybe I'll just check the pads with a bore scope. Thanks, Phillip
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