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Deer Creek Farm

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About Deer Creek Farm

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    Www.deercreeknc.com

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  • Location
    Carthage, NC.

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  1. I appreciate all the feedback especially with the links to the parts needed. I will only use it this season which may only be a total of 30-40 hours. Then at the end of fall I will take her in to get rebuilt. Like you and others have mentioned I will use the in line check valve that goes in the top of the pump but it drives me crazy that I can’t find an OEM or equivalent under tank check valve! Seems they don’t exist. LOL
  2. So do they make a check valve overhaul kit with the new spring or is there somewhere I can buy a new check valve? thanks
  3. As for the “borrowed time”, what are talking here, a couple of hours, 5 hours or 50 hours? I really just need it long enough to get some garden work done and get veggies in. After that I can afford for her to be out of commission for a month or two while the pump is being rebuilt. As others have mentioned in this post even after pump is rebuilt I need a new check valve to make it run right. Where can I get a new check valve?
  4. So does it hurt the pump to free flow. I would assume (and we all know what happens then) that the lack of pressure build up would wear the pump out or wear the injectors out, right?
  5. Yeah I did not see any spring. What I pulled out of the tank looked like carbon build up on a bolt carrier group for an M-16/M-4. You could see the ball in the female end. I took some PB Blaster to it, air hose and blew it out then took some sand paper to the shaft to get the “carbon” off. The ball rattled around. Where does this spring go?
  6. I understand that part and trust you guys in here have tons more experience than i do but what’s not clicking with me is when I disconnected the return line and let the diesel drain into a gas can I seen no particles and she purred leave me a kitten. As soon as I connected it back up to the check valve she stumbled and shut down like before. All things being equal seems to me the check valve is the issue. She’s old and needs an overhaul here and there but it would have been so much more convenient if she would have done this in the winter. Trying to get things done around the farm and gardens
  7. One more thing has anybody replaced the hard fuel line with a flexible fuel line? It takes me 15-20 minutes to get that fuel line back on there because of the way it’s routed. When I take it out or if i let it drop in place it’s like I have to fight with it to twist and turn to get it back in place. A flexible fuel line would be so much easier. when I had the return line off and it running into a gas can I looked to the fuel and there were no particles/coffee grounds in it and she ran like a champ for 25 minutes just idling along no issues. As soon as I hook the check valve back up I
  8. Okay so I cleaned check valve it was stuck and corroded to me looked like carbon. I cleaned it up soaked it in some PB Blaster and and got the ball/valve rattling again but low and behold I get it all back together and same issue. so to get this injector pump off I remove feed and return line and four injector lines and throttle wire and furl cut off Linkage then the three bolts holding it to block correct? Anything I need to pay close attention to? thanks
  9. Okay good news!!!!!!!! It’s NOT the injector pump. I took the return line off the tank and let it run into a gas can and she set there and purred for 25 minutes like a kitten. So now I’m taking off the check valve on the bottom of the tank and attempt to clean it and/or replace it. Hopefully that will solve my issue.
  10. mmi - I will blow air into return and confirm wether the check valve is clogged. Then I will leave return line disconnected, remove tank cap and see if I can get her to run 5+ minutes. DirtBoyz07 - When you said get rid of check valve on bottom of tank and put newer one on top cover; do you mean the top cover of the injection pump where I pulled the elbow off on the return line? Where can I get the replacement/new one at? I just picked up some fuel line to replace the hoses like you suggested.
  11. Ok so just to clarify; once I remove the fuel cap, disconnect the return fuel line at the injector and blow compressed air through the line (from injector pump end towards tank - if I hear air coming into tank then check valve is good and if not then check valve is bad? If it is the check valve on the bottom of the tank that is bad, do you know of a good place to get a replacement?
  12. Yeah I agree. I will start making calls tomorrow. I found one shop in Greensboro about an hour away but was told this morning that there is a shop right down the road about 15 minutes from me. I will call them tomorrow and get an estimate. The shop in Greensboro said it would be between $700-$800 to rebuild.
  13. So this weekend I pulled the fuel filter and there was the evidence of “The coffee grounds of death” and the filter was pretty dirty. I Cleaned bowl, replaced the filter, removed return line and elbow, blew them out with air hose and there were no blockages. Topped it off with about 2-3 gallons of fresh clean diesel and added a little transmission fluid in with the fuel and she fired up but still only runs for 2-3 minutes then dies.
  14. Yeah I’ll start calling shops Monday. It’s almost like an automatic transmission to me. I will dive head first into an engine but want nothing to do with a transmission. Too many small parts for me. Thanks for all the feedback.
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