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  1. Axle sleeve now epoxy glued in place, inner seal replaced, axle greased and back in. Just been playing with shims between the planet carrier and half shaft. There was one 0.8mm shim already but when I tightened up against it, it bound up the bearings too much. The manual calls for 30inlbs of running torque to keep the axle turning but this is nothing and wouldn't overcome seal friction and is nearly impossible to measure. I found a plate washer 1.3mm thick and it seems to have done the job, free running, but no float on the axle. Hoping someone can reassure me that this isn't too large a shim to use and what the typical max shim stack should be? Thanks
  2. Slowly making progress... Axle cleaned up with seal and bearing fitted. I used the old bearing race and a block of wood to drive it on to the shaft. (photo) I had to superglue the seal on to the axle since the axle has worn and the seal would spin freely on the axle rather than being pressed in place. Trumpet cleaned up too, adding weld beads on the old race meant I could get it out with the slide hammer, then I split it with the grinder and used it to drive the new race in to the trumpet. (photo) Measured up and drilled and tapped my grease port. The hole centre is 18mm from the trumpet face for future reference. (photo) The axle sleeve spins freely in the trumpet so I'm going to either epoxy it in or use a couple of weld tacks to secure it to the trumpet. I think I'll go for epoxy to save trying to weld to the casting. Will update when I get it all back together!
  3. I had the same issue on my 475 and it was due to the linkages between handle and box being worn. I drilled them out and replaced the existing pins with larger bolts to tighten it all up. Hope that helps.
  4. Thanks for the advice folks, parts are in the post. I forgot about using a cold bead to shrink the old race, that should work great once I degrease it. My plan for reassembly is as follows, this sound right? Clean up shaft and trumpet, remove rust, scoring, old grease, etc and dress nicely Located where grease nipple should go, drill and tap Press seal and outer bearing on to axle Smear grease along the full length of the axle (except the oil bathed part) Press the outer bearing outside race in to the end of the trumpet Press the rear axle sleeve in to the end of the trumpet - should i use grease or install dry? worry about water getting in here Install new inner seal in to trumpet Smear grease along the inside of the trumpet to prevent any moisture creating rust Push axle in to trumpet Install the inner bearing and drive it in to place with a block of wood and hammer using hytran as lube Install planetary gear set, torque up, and reassemble axle on tractor Appreciate any advice, first time doing this one. Thanks
  5. I should add that I've only done about 50 hours in this machine since I bought it moving a few bales around in the back box, looks like it's been a mess for a long time!
  6. That's it apart now. Before I stripped it I had a play with the hub, 3/8" of play which didn't bode well! I made myself an adapter for the trolley jack from a big bolt out the scrap at work which when combined with a ratchet strap was perfect for supporting the axle. I lifted the cab 2-3inches with my car lift which gave just enough access to pull the axle out. Meant I could do the job safely on my own. It drew the half shaft out the diff a little bit but it just slid back in. Brakes have been done not long ago, plenty of pad left. Inner bearing feels good. Drove the axle out with a block of wood and a pile of twisted metal that used to be the outer bearing dropped out, what a mess, no sign of any rubber! I'm hoping the axle and body are salvageable and will hold a bearing and seal. Next job is to get the bearing race out of the axle body, the slide hammer isn't shifting it. Guess I'll either need to carefully slit it with the dye grinder or use heat. Time to order an outer bearing too now. Going to take a fair bit of cleaning up! Will post later once it's all cleaned up.
  7. 1. Photo of the mess under the seat! there is a transmission in there somewhere! 2. How i've supported the machine 3. My temporary fix for sealing the axle 4. Cab disconnected at the axle, decided not to try at the rubber mounts
  8. So... next job... the rear axle seal on my 475 was leaking hydraulic oil when i bought it. I've made do for a long while now with heavily greased rags tied with twine and zip ties around the end of the axle to effectively seal the hub to the end of the axle body (see photo). I'm now in the process of repairing, following the same procedure as in this link to save on lifting off the whole cab. https://www.tractorforum.com/threads/brakes-on-ih-574.30738/ Couple of questions: is the axle between the inner and outer bearing meant to by dry or oil filled? I see an inner seal and an outer seal in the manual so i assume not? This would mean both seals are destroyed and need replaced. I'll need to assess the bearings too. Can anyone share photos of where they drilled grease nipples in to the axle for greasing the bearings? Separately, i thought i needed to remove the seat, ends up i didn't, but it needed done anyway for future, what a nightmare! The seat rails were seized covering the rear bolts. So i thought i'd lift the seat off the rails first, but the heads of those bolts aren't captive! had to wedge a very long screwdriver down the inside of the rail to hold the heads. Even then one was seized and i had to get in with my junior hacksaw to cut it. Then to boot, all the riv nuts in the body were no longer attached! managed to get the cover plate off and mole grips in to hold them to undo. Took me the best part of two hours to get it all out. Jacking the tractor and setting it on wooden blocks was no issue, removing the quick hitch helped give me a nice flat space to support it. Wheel off, and cab freed from the axle. Fuel taps are turned off and hydraulic oil is drained so tonight it's ready for lifting the cab up 3" and then i'll be able to take the axle off. Will update as i go
  9. I don't drive this one on the road but am definitely looking for a good second hand cylinder, at £300, new ones are out of my budget! Hard to get hold of second hand ones for a decent price. There are no sharp edges in the bore now but agree the o ring is going to have a hard time!
  10. New dipstick welded together to the correct length. Some 1/2" stainless tube from the scrap bin at work tig welded to the old gland and nut has done the trick. Can finally get the transmission fluid to the right level! Included a photo of how I stopped the transmission fluid leaking out whilst I did the job using a piece of old bicycle inner tube in case anyone has the same conundrum! I also used an old bolt in the bore to line up the nut and tube for welding to keep things straight. Cheers
  11. New seals fitted and all back together working great so far. I used an oring on the piston (one of the cylinder end cap orings) instead of the ptfe wiper seal to better accommodate the scores in the bore and reduce fluid bypass. Hopefully when at full lock the piston doesn't move again!
  12. 20t press has the piston back in the right place. Not going to weld it to avoid bending the shaft since it took a lot of force to move it. Dressed it all with 120grit emry, 600 wet and dry and a flapping wheel in the drill for the bore. It's going to be as good as it can get. New seals ordered so will rebuild it next week and see what how long it lasts.pictures of piston, cylinder bore and my flapper used to polish it. Cheers
  13. Definitely the piston which has moved. Going to see my neighbour and his press else I'm going to have to heat it up first. Unfortunately someone has welded the clevis on and got weld spatter everywhere and in the bore so lots of scoring. I've dressed it all with wet and dry and honed the bore with a flapper on the drill so it should be OK, might bleed by a little but I don't use this machine a lot. Pictures are before I dressed it all! Will update once I've fixed it!
  14. Has anyone repaired these before? Going to pull it apart tonight. If it's the piston that's moved, I plan to press it back to the correct location. To prevent the problem reoccurring, i'm wondering if i should lay a very small weld bead using TIG between the rod and piston (so that it doesn't bind up with the seals at the end of the stroke). I could weld without filler rod and create a little undercut to address this. Am guessing the piston rod is chromed, so I'll need to very gently grind the minimum amount of area before doing any welding (~2mm). Anyone else have experience of a repair? I don't want to buy new and it's a long drive to the nearest breakers yard. If the problem is likely to reoccur i don't have much to lose by trying to weld it? (I'm a reasonably skilled TIG welder).
  15. Reading some more, it could be the land in the centre of the piston has moved and blocked a port. How is it held in place and can I move it back to where it should be? This would tie in with me hitting full lock and the issue occurring. Would have thought itd be held in place by interference fit or grub screws /dowels? Thanks
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