
WyattFarmall
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The Cub has a 10 foot long belt that runs off a pulley attached to the PTO, so if needed I can buy a new pully to put on. I just don’t want to have to buy/make all new mounting hardware for it.
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WyattFarmall started following Sears Buzz Saw, Farmall A mower, Snowmobile driving me crazy! and 1 other
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I have a Farmall Cub with a Woods 59 mower. I’m looking to purchase a farmall A and I was wondering if anyone knew if the hardware and mounting brackets from the cub would be compatible with the A? I know the direction of the blades is reversed but I can get new blades to fix that. Thanks
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I ended up removing the recoil and I looked at the points, and the points were set too close and weren’t opening, so after setting the points it sparks on both. I should have realized that was the problem from the beginning. It sputters but I ended up flooding the engine and I haven’t been able to get it running steady yet.
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The engine is a 338cc Yamaha 2 cylinder
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When I tested each coil they had 16,000 ohms and 17,000 ohms. (secondary side) Each one works. When I put one lead at the ignition switch connection and the other at the primary coil connection the working side gets ~10 ohms and the non working side gets ~24 ohms. When I tested from the condensers to the primary coil connection I got right around 0.2 ohms on both. When I put a lead on an engine ground and one on the primary coil hookup, when I pull the cord it fluctuates between 0 and 3 volts, which tells me the points are working. Since each side is producing voltage I think the windings are
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Both coils and plug wires work, if I swap the power supply from the left coil(which sparks) to the right coil(which doesn’t), the right coil will spark. Theres a problem somewhere in the power supply to the right coil, which baffles me because I replaced the components (points/condenser) and the voltage on the DMM shows up the same in both circuits. There is 2 sets of points and 2 condensers because its a twin cylinder. I’m starting to think that everything is working, but because of the higher resistance in the bad circuit there isn’t enough voltage to cause a spark.
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I know this isn’t the right forum to talk about a snowmobile but you guys are pretty smart so I figured I would ask. I dug a 1971 Sno Jet snowmobile out of the woods and I am trying to get it running. Problem is I only have spark to one cylinder. I replaced the spark plugs and ignition switch, still only one cylinder has spark. I replaced the condenser and points on the bad side, no spark. I made sure it had a good engine ground, no spark. I tested the coil on the bad side with the good side hookup and both coils work. Using a DMM I see both sides get the same voltage and the circuits hav
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The bearings are pretty solid, there is zero sound or vibration when I spin the arbor. I might look into making a guard for mine.
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That was the only word I couldn’t make out, but when I looked into it someone else has a Sears buzz saw that said 1000 so thats what I went with. It did have a guard but I couldn’t find one and I can still use it without one. I’m not sure what kind of bearings it has, because they are pressed into the tube. I’m assuming more modern ball bearings.
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I made a thread a couple weeks ago about my Sears buzz saw, finally finished its restoration today. I might take it to some shows but its going to be used like it was when it was new!
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Getting back to the main question of this thread, I figured out what was written on the saw, it says: MAX SPEED OF MANDREL (???) R.P.M. NO. 41. The max speed of the “mandrel” or arbor is too far gone to read. Anyone know it? Edit: Did some research and it says 1000 RPM. I’ll post a picture on here when I restore it.
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The $1000 was for a brand new one that was slightly used, I paid $150 for my belt driven saw. I wouldn’t expect more than $300 out of one.
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I was reading up on reinstalling the head and someone says that the torque specs are different because of the higher compression. Is this true?
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This is whats written on the pistons. They look a lot like the fire crater pistons.