WyattFarmall

I ended up removing the recoil and I looked at the points, and the points were set too close and weren’t opening, so after setting the points it sparks on both. I should have realized that was the problem from the beginning. It sputters but I ended up flooding the engine and I haven’t been able to get it running steady yet.

The engine is a 338cc Yamaha 2 cylinder

When I tested each coil they had 16,000 ohms and 17,000 ohms. (secondary side) Each one works. When I put one lead at the ignition switch connection and the other at the primary coil connection the working side gets ~10 ohms and the non working side gets ~24 ohms. When I tested from the condensers to the primary coil connection I got right around 0.2 ohms on both. When I put a lead on an engine ground and one on the primary coil hookup, when I pull the cord it fluctuates between 0 and 3 volts, which tells me the points are working. Since each side is producing voltage I think the windings are ok. I think I’ll test resistance in the wires at every connection to see if its just a wire.

Both coils and plug wires work, if I swap the power supply from the left coil(which sparks) to the right coil(which doesn’t), the right coil will spark. Theres a problem somewhere in the power supply to the right coil, which baffles me because I replaced the components (points/condenser) and the voltage on the DMM shows up the same in both circuits. There is 2 sets of points and 2 condensers because its a twin cylinder. I’m starting to think that everything is working, but because of the higher resistance in the bad circuit there isn’t enough voltage to cause a spark.

I know this isn’t the right forum to talk about a snowmobile but you guys are pretty smart so I figured I would ask. I dug a 1971 Sno Jet snowmobile out of the woods and I am trying to get it running. Problem is I only have spark to one cylinder. I replaced the spark plugs and ignition switch, still only one cylinder has spark. I replaced the condenser and points on the bad side, no spark. I made sure it had a good engine ground, no spark. I tested the coil on the bad side with the good side hookup and both coils work. Using a DMM I see both sides get the same voltage and the circuits have continuity. the ONLY thing different is that the bad side has higher resistance. I’m stumped! If I missed something, I would appreciate the help.

The bearings are pretty solid, there is zero sound or vibration when I spin the arbor. I might look into making a guard for mine.

That was the only word I couldn’t make out, but when I looked into it someone else has a Sears buzz saw that said 1000 so thats what I went with. It did have a guard but I couldn’t find one and I can still use it without one. I’m not sure what kind of bearings it has, because they are pressed into the tube. I’m assuming more modern ball bearings.

I made a thread a couple weeks ago about my Sears buzz saw, finally finished its restoration today. I might take it to some shows but its going to be used like it was when it was new!

Getting back to the main question of this thread, I figured out what was written on the saw, it says: MAX SPEED OF MANDREL (???) R.P.M. NO. 41. The max speed of the “mandrel” or arbor is too far gone to read. Anyone know it? Edit: Did some research and it says 1000 RPM. I’ll post a picture on here when I restore it.

The $1000 was for a brand new one that was slightly used, I paid $150 for my belt driven saw. I wouldn’t expect more than $300 out of one.

I was reading up on reinstalling the head and someone says that the torque specs are different because of the higher compression. Is this true?

This is whats written on the pistons. They look a lot like the fire crater pistons.

It has a distributor. It runs like a top like it was so I assume that was installed before.

Must have been, I bought it from a guy last August who bought and restored it 20 years ago. Must have been then that the kit was installed