WyattFarmall

Thanks!

Hello all, I’m looking to buy a generic straight pipe for one of my H’s and I was wondering if someone could tell me the outer diameter of the exhaust pipe from the manifold, so I cam make sure it will fit properly. I would check for myself but I am out of town for a week. Many Thanks.

Update: I cleaned the carburetor again and replaced the distributor cap. Both seemed to help a little but the original issue still stands. I wasn’t able to perform the vacuum test because nobody local sells one I can get today, so that will have to wait. Edit: Its running pretty good now. Just a small lag in acceleration from the NEW float pin staying closed. It still misses but is running well enough now. Thanks for the help all.

The distributor was replaced or redone 20 years ago by the previous owner, I don’t think the shaft is the issue. I tried the propane torch trick around the manifold and I didn’t notice any change. It must be carburetor related.

I’ll have to buy a vacuum tester and try this. It’ll be tricky getting the plug out of my manifold, its so worn you can’t tell theres threads there anymore.

Hello again, Ive been going through my H pretty thoroughly, and I can’t seem to correct the spit/sputter misfiring that happens at lower RPM’s. If at idle, the engine runs extremely rough, and smoothes out as RPM’s increase, until completley smooth at full RPM. The engine smoothes out a bit by pulling the choke halfway out, and is also considerably smoother under a light load, such as 5th gear. Ive pulled off spark plug wires one at a time and have determined the misfiring is erratic, or not specific to one cylinder. Ive replaced the manifold gaskets, rebuilt carb(checked float multiple times), rebuilt distributor(coil, spark plugs, plug wires, condenser, new points set correctly. NO new cap.) Also timed the valves and replaced the sediment bowl and added an inline fuel filter. Heres my thoughts, and I wonder if someone can confirm one or both of these as the issue. 1. The new inline filter has air trapped inside that doesn’t seem to get sucked out. Could a leak in the fuel line cause too much air to make its way to the cylinders, causing it to run rough? 2. The manifold mating surface to the block was corroded around the exhaust ports, could exhaust me making its way into the intake port(s)? As of now, I plan on buying a brand new manifold. Many thanks for any help you fellas can provide.

I finally figured out it was the valve timing that was much too tight that caused the sputter. Thanks for all the help. -Wyatt

What I meant was the breaker points inside the distributor.

Yes, in fact I replaced both points this morning with the distributor kit I installed.

After doing some more work I have pretty much ruled out the governor, besides replacing the spring. Would a valve timing adjustment help?

Heres what I have done as of now. I have replaced the spark plug wires and installed a distributor tune up kit. I have not replaced the coil or the rubber boot on the distributor.(Kit gave me an incorrect boot so I used the old one.) Yesterday I removed the carburetor and manifold. I cleaned and rebuilt the carb with a new kit, and I installed a new manifold seal as well as new carb seals. I inspected the governor and the large return spring is stretched in one spot, but I don’t think that would cause the issue. None of these things have helped at all. The only thing I can think to do is time the valves, but I can’t see that helping much either. Heres the spring.

I’m having an issue with one of my H’s where I open the throttle and it “lags”, or spits and sputters for a few seconds before RPM’s increase. That is unless the tractor stalls. Does anyone know a fix for this issue? I suspect a governor issue. Thanks. Side note: Its worse in 4th or 5th gear when there is only a slight load on the tractor.

Thanks for all the replies. The reason I am looking to add a key switch is because I sometimes park my tractors in public places and I don’t want someone to be able to hop on and take off with it, and I don’t want someone else to be able to accidentally start it and get injured, then the liability falls on me. I know for sure my 45’ H has no Magneto, I’ll have to look at the 48’, so I should be all set there. My asking about a kill switch was just out of curiosity, it is a possibility that I will wire both in but chances are I will only use the key.

I’ve got 2 H’s and I want to replace the 2 position in-out kill switches with ignition keys. Does anyone know of a good 2 position keyed ignition switch that will work? Also, would it be possible to wire in the key and the button, so the button could act as an “emergency” kill switch?

I had to buy a 6 volt battery yesterday for my new H, I just called up the local auto parts store (Parts Plus) and had them match the old battery with a new one. Works good. Generally I recommend sticking to auto parts stores/dealers instead of places like the Walmart auto section, sometimes the “big box” stores or chains get lesser quality parts than auto parts stores. Just my 2 cents.