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bill z

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About bill z

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    Member
  • Birthday September 7

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Spring, Texas
  • Interests
    Engines, machinery & gadgets

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  1. What are you suppose to do with milky hydraulic fluid? I do not live on a farm so I tried some of the auto stores that take old oil and they won't let me dump the milky hydraulic fluid. Is there something that I can do with 5 gallons of milky hydraulic fluid and 10 gallons of water diluted diesel? I used diesel to flush out the water from the milky hydraulic system. What would happen if I put the milky hydraulic fluid in a pot for boiling craw-fish and brought it to 300 degrees for 30 to 60 minutes? Would that evaporate out all of the water and leave the hydraulic fluid where I can use it again? It was new fluid when I started. Suggestions please.
  2. Thanks Pete23. I was able to tap the shaft just enough to hook the O ring, then did the same thing on the other side. Now all O rings are replaced and no leaks. BTW: Jacking up the right side of the tractor really helps. Thanks all.
  3. Thanks Grumpy! What is the better way to break down the control boxes when I get them off of the tractor to get to these O rings? Are there pictures or a diagram?
  4. Looks like the only leak is where the control shaft connects to the lever. The PDF that I have doesn't show that part or mention the seal number or even the seal type. Does anyone have information about sealing off the hydraulic lever shaft on a 300 utility?
  5. To let you know, Yesterday, I jacked up the right side of the tractor and set the tires on cinder blocks. That tilted the reservoir enough that kept the hydraulic fluid from running out and kept me from having to drain the fluid. Thinking back, I could of driven it to the ditch and parked it on an angle. Using break cleaner, I cleaned all of the surfaces and replaced all of the O rings holding them in place with a little grease. I torqued the bolts to 55 foot pounds to get them even and tight. Today, when it warms up, I'll use spray on engine cleaner and wash the tractor all around the hydraulic so when it drys, I can see any new leeks from the old ones.
  6. Yes, I have a 300 Utility. What if I jack up the right side of the tractor and place cinder blocks under the wheels, tilting the tractor to the left trying to keep the fluid in since the valve blocks/regulator blocks are on the right side. Would that keep the fluid in the reservoir when I removed the valve blocks/regulator blocks? I see that the valve blocks/regulator blocks can't be removed with the finder mounted. The bolts will not come all of the way out and they are stacked.
  7. Sunday, I’ll be replacing the O ring seals in the hydraulic system. We got this tractor that had been sitting for 3 years. Now that we filled it up with Hi-Tran, it leaks from between the boxes that has the lever to control the lift and the body where we put the Hi-Tran. Is this as simple as removing the 4 bolts that hold the power box (I think that is what the box is called that has the aluminum levers that control the 3 point hydraulics) and the main body that keeps the hydraulic fluids, replacing the O rings and bolting it together again? How much fluid will I loose? What do I need to know?
  8. On the circled adjustment in the picture above, is there suppose to be a spring on that screw? Also, any suggestions as to how to tune this carburetor? I'll be removing most of these adjustments to install the lead packing and to inspect what did or did not get installed. On my 1948 Model B John Deere, there were only 2 places to adjust but the RPM range was much less than this 300 Utility. I could use some help knowing how to adjust and at what RPM.
  9. That is probably why the gasoline leaks out when the fuel at the sediment bowl is not shut off on this tractor. Makes sense. Very good to know. In the kit was some, what looked like, foam rubber (soft and spongie). Where would that go? Thanks
  10. So the lead things are really bushings that go on the throttle and choke. I would of never guessed that. Let me get to work and see if I can rectify this carb.
  11. I have reason to believe the carburetor that came with my Farmall International 300 utility had a carburetor overhaul sometime and it was not done right. The carburetor is the correct carb for this tractor. I ordered a kit from a popular tractor web site and the kit came with a small chrome BB, some what looks like lead inserts that I could not find in the carburetor when I disassembled in in a plastic tub. I disassemble carbs in a tub so I won’t loose parts. The carb kit didn’t come with pictures or instructions about what goes where, like the BB and the lead inserts. Back, when I use to put kits in cars, the kits came with instructions and even a little cardboard to use to set the floats. Not so with this kit. Where can I find some fine details on the carb so I can put things right?
  12. Yes, cost is important. He was stretched just getting the land. That is why he is trying to use an antique tractor, because of cost. $2,000 buys a lot of tractor in a 300 Utility. Thanks for the name. This allows me to search for some used ones in the area that we might be able to work with. However, I like the idea of renting something for a week, or even a long weekend. Saves us rigging and storing. I'm still open to other ideas.
  13. Have this 1955 International Farmall 300 Utility without power steering that we want to use to do some farming in West Texas. The 25 acres has mostly surface dirt about 2 to 4 inches deep with a bunch of rocks on and just under the surface. Our desire is to scrape most of the smaller rocks out (about bowling ball size and smaller) and dump the rocks out of the way. We were hoping to find something like a loader but with holes in the bucket to allow the dirt to sift through away from the rocks. Hoping to find something to attach to the back of the tractor similar to the way the mower connects but use a cylinder as the 3rd link. A box blade would not allow us to pickup the rocks to move them way out of the way where a loader of sorts would. Yes, we would have to do a most of the work driving in reverse. Any ideas, thoughts or suggestions?
  14. Since I wasn't able to find any new old stock and I wasn't able to find a company locally to make them (the 4 I talked to turned me down), I decided to use the old ones with new ball bearings and filled the box with STP oil treatment. Not great but now I can drive the tractor. Yes, I had to replace the pointer that goes in the worm gear. That took up a lot of slop. There were no numbers on ether the top or the bottom bearing cup. Had to use the CaseIH number. I found some web pages with them as listed but when I called about them, they said they were no longer available. Now, most of the looseness is in the rear tie rod ends. I'm still looking for some good used bearing cups or new old stock, if you hear of any.
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