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AmateurHobbyFarmer

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  1. Well guys.. finally got around to actually addressing this today. I went and replaced the transmission filter again and it did the trick. Got all my pressures back, no more noise and steering is good. I did replace the fluids and filter shortly before the TA job. But it appears that there was enough gunk to clog the filter and the filter bypass valve screen was pretty clogged with fine particles. I'm kind of wondering if some of the crap came from when I worked on the range cover - I had to scrape the old gasket off. I used a rags to prevent the old gasket material from falling down below, but maybe it didn't catch it all. Not sure. I did re-filter all of my used transmission oil before putting it back in the tractor, too. But it's good now! I appreciate all your help!
  2. Figured I'd post the numbers on here too see if this helps identify anything before I begin tearing into it. These were the results I got tonight. I uploaded a pic of what I found in the service manual - its the closest scenario I could find compared to what my pressures are reading. I think they reference lower TA/DD pressures since factory pressures were much lower than what the Hy-Capacity TAs need. (I had to add an inner spring to the pressure regulator to bump the pressure up) Wheels straight, no brakes - TA psi - cold 170 / warm 300 Middle psi - cold 170 / warm 280 DD psi - cold 170 / warm 280 Lube psi in all TA lever positions - cold 0 / warm 1-2 Wheels at stops, no brakes - TA psi - cold 120 / warm 300 Middle psi - cold 120 / warm 280 DD psi - cold 120 / warm 280 Lube psi - cold 0 / warm 0 Brakes pressed, wheels straight - TA psi - cold 300 / warm 305 Middle psi - cold 280 / warm 280 DD psi - cold 280 / warm 280 Lube psi - cold 0 / warm 18-20
  3. Thanks guys. Oil level and filter are good. I put a new pump in when I replaced the TA. I think I'll check the oring on the upper end of the steering safety relief valve first before I start digging into the mcv.
  4. I recently installed a new TA and the pressures were 300psi for the TA pressures and 20 lube psi. I have about an hour of use on the new TA. Hopped on the tractor today and my power steering started to get really noisy and harder to steer. Seems like the noise is mainly coming from the steering column area and the MCV seems to be making a little noise too. Checked TA pressures and those checked out good at 300psi. Checked lube pressure and I barely have anything. I get maybe 1-2PSI with wheels straight and I completely lose pressure when the steering is maxed. I get around 18 or so when I hit the brakes. Any ideas on what might be wrong? Only thing I can think of is that my sump check valve is bad?
  5. Guess I didn't know I could check it that way as well. Bought the TA from Redrunrite and the forum on his website showed the check tolerances process, so I went ahead with it. Took his word for it as he's installed over a hundred of the heavy duty TA's and only had a couple fail (think he said one failed on a 600hp pulling tractor and the other was for some other weird reason - mcv problems or something). Didn't seem too difficult to do it that way. I have the TA on an engine stand and it rotates easy. Dropped it in with the o-ring hanging on the top side of the TA. After doing the check, you just unbolt the TA, pull it up a few inches, slip the o-ring underneath and let it back down.
  6. I did, but I checked it differently. I actually checked end play on the quill side. Dropped the TA in without the o-ring installed, bolted the front in, spun it around. Then I set up my indicator to read the quill surface. And when I tighten the quill housing bolts, I get the end play. Supposed to read between .005 and .025. Mine read at .02.
  7. Cutting and baling hay (large rounds and sqaures) and brush mowing. Don't plan on plowing or anything.
  8. Just replaced my original 806 countershaft with a left hand threaded one. I put the splined spacer on first, followed by the gears and spacers. I did not shim my new TA, so I didn't add shims to countershaft. I made sure to use the new mesh gear that came with the new hy-cap TA. The constant mesh gear is riding the rear of the gear on the TA. The teeth fully engaged with each other, just not centered. The direct drive gear seems to be almost spot on center. Will this cause any issues?
  9. Thanks for catching that! So it would go where I circled in the image below?
  10. Some of the threads on the old one were mangled up when I removed the nut. Not sure exactly how it happened. Either the threads were cross threaded during the install or some metal shavings from the roll pin got caught in the threads when I removed it. (First tried punching the old roll pin out but no luck, so I had to drill it out) I probably could have forced a nut back on the old shaft, but that would've thrown torque specs off and I didn't want to play the guessing game.
  11. Thanks for the tip. I don't need to worry about a washer behind the nut if it's a left hand thread shaft?
  12. It's good to see that they're that confident the LH threads won't allow it to back off. No need to roll pin it? Do I just put a standard washer on it so the bearing doesn't ride on the nut?
  13. Hi folks, just curious if anyone out there has info on this. I'm replacing my 806 countershaft with a left handed thread one. Got the new one (used) in the mail today and noticed several differences between the old and new. The part numbers cross referenced ok when I purchased. The new shaft is slightly longer, has a groove in the middle, the non threaded end is different and the threaded end doesn't have a slot for the washer locking tab. Is this going to cause issues? Should I find a machinist to mill a slot out on the threaded end for the locking tab?
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