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Everything posted by Troll

  1. That orange one looks inviting to me. I'll yak at you later over it as have a couple of other irons going now. Thanks,
  2. I've put a lot of bottoms in gasoline tanks through the years when replacements were not available. Not hard at all but tank has to be clean and purged thoroughly prior to welding, (obviously).
  3. Another buddy of mine gave me a link to his electronic copy for a Series 92 Detroit Service Manual. It has very good photos of what is needed. It is very close to the 71 series manuals I have with minor differences for the later model engines. I can use it on the 6V-92TA engine I have in the truck.
  4. Try your somewhat local "Fleetpride" store. I seldom use them but they are plentiful around the country. I prefer the independent "small guy" still trying to make a living. You can get parts and rebuild that compressor for a couple hundred. You could also send it to REI in Chicagoland for a reasonable rebuild: https://www.rebuildersenterprises.com/ I've had them rebuild several over the years. Here is an ebay link if you'd like to go that way: https://www.ebay.com/itm/HALDEX-EL13040X-COMPRESR-COMPRESS/302901625115?hash=item468658011b:g:TEYAAOSwESZbNPNy:rk:4:pf:1&frcectupt=
  5. Buddy of mine owns a parts store and usually treats me right. You have a very common compressor.
  6. Without your original numbers: 13CFM part# KN 13040X $281.55 cost with no core charge shown 16CFM part# KN16040X $368.89 cost with $182.50 core charge AND 14 day lead time Those compressors use aluminum rods and usually the rod cap comes loose from lack of Loctite on the retention fasteners during the rebuild process. Although rare to occur with a "Like-Nu" branded rebuild, it can happen. The compressors are presure lubricated by the engine oil supply so they are not starved for oil.
  7. Nestor earning his keep and at the first task around the shop. My old scrap trailer sunk into the soft fill out back of the shop with the rains of recent and unseasonable warm weather. Figured since it was 18 degrees this morning it would be a good exercise for Nestor to attempt to get under the neck and move the trailer back a few feet to relatively virgin soil: As the trailer looked yesterday afternoon: Figuring out how to get under it: Yup, going to clear: Under and latched up. First time those jaws have closed since late 1985: I really
  8. Well then I guess I get the "extra" points as that Dodge has a V-10 gasoline engine and automatic transmission. I bought it new and it's original at 220K on the clock and with the exception of radiator, water pump, and alternator, has not had a wrench on it. That truck on the trailer weighs 26,200# and the extra steering axle and hood panel were just over 650# and the trailer is 7300# empty. Just a bit over weight and I snapped the photo after the 265 mile trip back to the shop. Truck's name is "Krusty" and she's quite trusty.
  9. Today I picked up a hydraulic steering pump, drive spline coupler, and gear adapter to put it together on the engine. It's from the left camshaft of a V-71 engine and going onto another V-71 engine in the same place so should work well. I'll get a couple of gaskets ordered tomorrow and call this part done.
  10. Used to hate that with disgruntled employees at the shops. I always kept vehicles indoors in the off hours so never really had a problem but security cameras worked several times in my favor.....
  11. Sure wish I had my old photos but lost a gillion of them when the basement flooded a while back. Some of my junk of which I still have all of it:
  12. I'd like to consider putting a different truck under my yard crane and prefer another R series. My RD-450 engine runs like a top but after I turned the truck over, (and it's bad shape otherwise) I'd really like to install another truck under the crane body. Really want to stay with an R series as kinda partial. Driveline in the replacement doesn't matter as everything under "Fred" is sound. Thanks,
  13. No, you don't need to break any injector lines loose. Just prefill your filters and water separator before buttoning everything up. You can remove the air cleaner and spray WD-40 into the intake manifold and it will start faster, but usually if both batteries are good in the truck it will crank about 15-20 seconds and fire off. Can't remember if the 93's had a "Schrader" type valve on the side of the filter housings or not, but if so, take them loose and crank engine till you see fuel spraying from them. The lift, and injection pump will purge the air through the injectors picking each cylind
  14. Thanks Keith. Wish I had something to fit among the group better but I really don't. Never really was around IH too much except an old H tractor I had for a bit and at TD-12 pipelayer purchased but never worked with. Ole "Fred" is safe as we've been together so long. Only thing I did to the H was tune it up, clean it up and someone whom seen it just had to have it. It was a wide front and I was going to use it for a mower.
  15. I don't do things the most environmentally conscience way ever, and some say the most healthy either; unless it's the best way. Here is what I use: I usually "strengthen" the mixture up a bit with additional methylene chloride, (technical grade) so it removes just about anything that isn't metal. When those kits are new they are good but the strength falls off quickly after about six months. Add another pint or so of methylene chloride solution and a bit of methanol and your off to the races again. The kit is about $150.00 to purchase so a bit much for a "one off" task. Pr
  16. Yes it does but there are three different sets of king pin kits fitting basically the same axle. I may knock a pin out tomorrow and measure to be certain but shop space is cramped. I'll check availability on all three prior to knocking it apart. Thanks,
  17. G'Day. I cannot locate where the axle stampings or tag is located on this steering axle. Ive seen them in most trucks either on the rt. side just under the spring seat, or centered in the axle beam. Not on this one. Line setting ticket says the truck was build with a FA-339 which is a 12K rated unit. I believe it still original but want to verify prior to ordering a king pin set tomorrow. Rt. pin is just a bit loose and jumped with a greasing. Frame is sound around the spring hangers and without compromise. Truck does need spring bushings and pins. I really think a grease gun was an enemy
  18. Fuller transmissions have a riveted tag on the rt rear of the transmission case. This will give you a set of numbers that can be interpreted. RT, RTO, RTX, etc. are the beginnings of the model number. If you PM me your email address I'll send you a file which will be helpful. The site won't allow posting of a .pdf?
  19. Also acquire a couple sheets of 220 grit silicone carbide, (wet or dry) sandpaper and a smooth steel bench top. Tape the sandpaper securely to the bench top with abrasive side up. Oil it up a bit with hydraulic oil or something thin and scrub the bottom of the head while the valves are out. Polish it good till the scratch pattern is smooth and even by moving the head casting in a figure 8 pattern across the sandpaper. I then either place the cylinder head and small parts into the kitchen dishwasher running in the overnight hours and get up REALLY early, (to not get caught) so any "grit" is was
  20. Thanks Oleman for your efforts. That setup is just as a "Vee" engine uses including the drive and splines setup from a cam drive. There are 20, 21, and 22 teeth driven hubs as your Jabsco water pump shows. I've seen them in the past but never installed into an application. A long time Detroit Diesel mechanic furnished all the part numbers and reference designators needed to acquire parts from. Many have already been found at minimal expense including the 7/8-13 spline coupling to drive my power steering pump. I need to verify rotation direction on the pump but the rear plate is reversible
  21. Thanks Kevin. Both of the new pumps I have are either 3/4"X11 spline or 7/8X13 spline drive. Can't remember which but both were for Detroit powered KW's. K-100 cabover tractors if that relates to age..... They are new and input shafts are readily available in whatever would be required. I've swapped and rebuilt power steering pumps on Detroit engines in the past, but never built up a setup that didn't exist prior and it's been several years. I won't have room for a belt driven pump in this application as the turbocharger(s) and firewall are in the way to use either a belt driven, or a reserv
  22. My fuel is cut 70/30 with #1 from October 1st till the end of the year. It is then 50/50 with #1 till March 30, then back to 70/30 till April 30. Never have had a gelling following this procedure. I run a quart of Dexron to 100 gallons of fuel for an additive and have never had a problem with Johnny Law over it. Not enough of a red "tinge" to be called "Off Road Fuel". Used to run road service with a torpedo heater, 5kw generator, and 60' of 48" wide painter's canvas drop cloths to wrap a frozen truck and warm it up to thaw. Would remove the fuel filters, fill them with a mix of "911", or
  23. Call Roger at Worthington: 800-892-6189. Give him your air compressor model, type, and serial number if you have it. Worthington sold their air compressor division in 1981 to Atlas-Copco but still have some access to older manuals and a few repair parts. I have a 250cfm unit with a B-427 Continental gasoline engine I use often and he was a great help to me upon startup by furnishing a manual. Here is mine. I call him "Junior":
  24. Keep in mind I know absolutely nothing about the Midland 1300, or 1600 series air compressor on your truck but here's a link for parts you'll want to replace: https://www.amazon.com/Midland-El13111-El16111-Compressors-Interchange/dp/B00V5APV3K Drain the coolant down in the truck and remove the compressor head. Clamp the head to a bench, warm the socket headed screw in plugs, (softening the loctite compound) retaining the exhaust valve disc(s) with a propane torch and screw them out using an Allen wrench. Discard the sealing plates. The intake check valve housings have three eliptical slo
  25. Thanks. I wouldn't have any idea where bus junkyards reside really. None of the heavy truck salvage yards I'm familiar with cater to any type of coach or bus but I will begin some type of search. I have a couple of new Vickers vane pumps but don't know the drive used from the camshafts on Detroit's. Once I find that out I can change the rotor in one of these pumps easily if I don't find a complete setup. Thanks,
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