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Troll

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Everything posted by Troll

  1. If the wind is just right and I can still hear them rusting in the distance.
  2. Troll

    Auger:

    Going to finish up this thread with completion of this air compressor hitch weldment. All is fine and I stuffed another tube into the bottom tube for strength as it will bear most of the brunt of the pull. I did do the same to the vertical riser but did not photo that. I'm comfortable it will serve the purpose. Double tube install: Welded up solid and smoothed out both ends: Used existing holes as pilots and the pins go right through: Nice little project and I really enjoyed doing something for myself this time: I'll blast this clean and get some paint on it the beginning of the week so it will stay somewhat rust free. It will only be used when I pull the air compressor but may find use on down the line when I build a heavier trailer.
  3. Troll

    Auger:

    Back on it's wheels again. I spaced the axle stubs into the tubes with .250" shoulder stickout to allow weld bead buildup and strength: You know the saying about a job done right so I packed the bearings myself this time: Getting close. All put back together and bolts cinched down. Getting ready to drop unit close to floor to hang tires. Here is weight on wheels: Hitched up the truck and went down the road for a spell to wear things in. I then retorqued the lug nuts and calling it good. However, tiring of the "nose down" attitude of the compressor when pulled with my pickup, I decided to build this to elevate the tongue to level and it seems to work well: Tomorrow I'll insert this tube into the larger tube for additional strength and cap the end closed: I like it a lot better than the original:
  4. Pretty nice on the outside but crusty underneath. Ran well with a 345V8 and automatic:
  5. Troll

    Auger:

    Dustless blasting is expensive up front and I don't feel it's as effective for doing what I do. Glass based media is great for paint removal but useless to remove corrosion or rust. Kinda expensive also. Granted the dust generated is a lot less but cleanup with a large shop, or truck mount vac is just like vacuuming your living room and not difficult. Most of the stuff I do will easily clean up and smooth out with a d/a sander due to a minor surface profile let behind that is very clean. If you look in the sale ads for blast equipment there is about a 5:1 disparity in the conventional vs dustless variety available; used. Lot's of young "starry eyed" guys go knee deep in debt to purchase these things to discover the job isn't as easy as the salesman let on. A few iterations of that and the equipment goes up for sale as a substantial loss to the seller ultimately.
  6. Troll

    Auger:

    2.50" square by .250" wall C1045 steel tube which is much stronger/tougher than C1018. I don't know what the spindles are machined from. Typical of tube that is not DOM there is an internal weld seam from the manufacturing shown here at the right side of the tube interior: This is one of the replacement spindles which needs to slide into the interior of the tube: As can be seen in the photo the weld bead precludes this spindle sliding into the tube. A little measuring and grinding a slot with a "Zip" wheel and it slides in easily with minimal force. Alignment is good also: Did some measuring to allow a 1.00" clearance from the tire sidewall to body and this fit well having the tire tread centered in the fenders as original: Overall pretty happy with the task but it's been tough fitting it into the schedule. The blasting business is growing faster than originally anticipated. Seems with the economy in the tank as it is folks are electing to rebuild and repair older equipment rather than replace if a replacement is available. Myself attempting to specialize in mobile, (away from my shop) blasting seems to be a large draw. I have several antique tractors and implements on the docket to get to this summer.
  7. Troll

    Auger:

    Not a bad little repair and all fits and aligns as it should with weight on wheels:
  8. Unless wanting to stay somewhat original in appearance, I'd consider a more modern hydraulic driven winch myself. Easy enough to mount a dedicated hydraulic pump and reservoir along with controls where you want them.
  9. Troll

    Auger:

    Axle kit shipped to incorrect address but I did receive it today. Need to taper the lug holes on the one ton dually wheels I'd use for stud piloting, but the outer bearing housing protrusion wouldn't be bothersome at all such as a knee buster. Just for shtz & grins I used my crane dynamometer and the compressor weighs 4285# without the axle, wheels, or tires installed. That leaves me to think it's about 4800# fully dressed and ready to work. I set the compressor back onto the car hauler as have a couple more small tasks to tend to tomorrow with the compressor. I did speak with the machine shop again this afternoon and thinking I'll have them manufacture two new spindles matching the undamaged one originally from the compressor to reuse the original hubs, and wheels. If they can get this done next week I'll just emulate the original axle very closely and reutilize the original pieces with new bearings, races, and seals. I've been needing to build an undercarriage for my Hobart diesel welder for a while now and would utilize the new parts for this if the stars align correctly.
  10. If you have a helper available and can weld decently you can weld a section of 2" round stock to another piece to be used as a handle. While holding the handle, place the section of 2" round against the axle and have the helper smack the round stock. No fingers, or parts are sacrificed this way and a lot of "force" is transferred directly into the axle flange. Two jack stands and a piece of round stock work well also if on a level plane. I've routinely cussed silicone, Permatex, gasket maker, (whatever you care to call it) getting these out for years and it can be tough at times. Do use a moly paste or even chassis grease on the tapered cones when going back together and save the future headache when it needs to come apart again. In the days of inboard brake drums removal of these was routine. Nowadays, not so much so they stick much more often. I have aattachment I'd purchased for the task when running my truck wrecker operation years ago that is OTC and attaches to the wheel studs. There are arms that hang down and attach to the "divots" in the hub between the axle shaft retention studs and these are tightened from a horizontal screw threaded apparatus pulling the jaws together. You start wrenching down on the forcing screw nut and that axle will pop free. I find it difficult to set up but it does work when most other possibilities are futile. 10 minutes setting this up on the side of the highway by yourself in the middle of the night gives your butt plenty of time to pucker up with today's inconsiderate driver's too. Here is your earlier photo and I've circled in yellow the "divots" mentioned. The jaws of this puller setup clamp the back side of the axle flange in this and the opposing area and exert the pulling force through the wheel mounting, (lug) studs. Nothing is damaged in the end but it can take a lot of force to extract the axles. I think the puller jaws are rated at 10 tons.
  11. Think I've located a manual but cannot attach a .pdf. Send me your email address and I'll get it to you. Looks like it is PTO driven and hydraulic power shifted.
  12. I've air arc'd my share on trailers and most anywhere a weld needs removed with my old Hobart engine drive machine. 1/4" carbons are a great compromise for speed and control but you better leather up and wear ear plugs or you'll be burnt and deaf like me..... I actually favor my Hypertherm PM105 plasma machine for the process these days. It does a great job and is a lot less cost to operate in consumables. I cut the upper flat from my drop deck and installed all new along with a plate of 3/8" with an SKF/Holland king pin. Plates last a lot longer when the 5th wheel is kept greased, but beating that into some operators.....
  13. Lightly grease the outer taper and use quality Nylok nuts to keep the water out of the area and there is a LOT less grief the next time they need removed.
  14. Rockwell Standard axle from the photos and the tapered cones always freeze to the taper in the axle shaft and this causes them to swell against the stud. There is a puller made for them that attaches to the wheel studs with two jaws to pull the axle but I've never needed it. I see one broken free, and one starting to break free. Best bet is to continue on the sledgehammer method right in the center of the axle cap. Very "sharp" raps are required that are solid.
  15. Common. Sharply "rap" the center of the axle shaft with a 10# sledgehammer, (or better) and they will pop free. Be careful to not his the studs. I back the nuts off till they are at the end of the threads so you can remove them after smacking the axle shaft.
  16. Troll

    Auger:

    I need to get this compressor back into service as designed. Citing this, I'll postpone repair to the original axle for the time being. This sign job has pre sold three other small jobs to do upon completion. The axle "kit" should arrive tomorrow, (Wednesday) and I'll get to the steel yard yet this afternoon to pick up what will become the axle tube. Shouldn't take too long to get things fabricated once everything is here.
  17. Given you have no history I would run an external pump using say an automotive power steering pump for testing purposes. Belt drive this with an electric motor and adapt the existing hoses. A p/s pump will move about 5gpm and develop adequate pressure for testing. The pump will most likely have a pressure relief valve built in as will the tractor control valve. This will allow you to test for operation before spending much for testing. You could also disconnect the hoses from the drive motor for the winch and plumb into it direct to test for operation. Swap the hoses to reverse the flow and direction of winch drum.
  18. I'd install a belt driven pump feeding into the existing valve body. You will only require two hoses which I would install new citing age. One for supply pressure, one for suction from the hydraulic reservoir. I've seen TD15 series tractors with either a direct mount pump, or belt driven but both do the same. Don't attempt to rob the hydraulic supply from another source as it may work but a compromise at best. 1500psi@10gpm will drive that winch real fine and allow good control.
  19. Troll

    Auger:

    Going to attempt to repair this spindle end. Got an older and disused floor standing drill press w/MT3 spindle hole along with reduction gearboxes to fashion a horizontal boring machine from.
  20. I don't loan mine. I will haul at a reduced rate to good friends whom will reciprocate, but far too many openings for relationship problems with loaning as I see it.
  21. If the pump is missing, are the control valves in place for the winch or were they pulled off as well?
  22. Troll

    Auger:

    It is nice but was too heavy to push with a load on the hook. I installed a hydraulic pumping unit, valves and motors controlled through a joystick so it's quite easy now.
  23. I have three of them. One an Esab 35A unit, a Hypertherm PM 85, and a PM 105. All work well and never any problems from any of them. I only use OEM consumables as they hold up a lot better than Chinese garbage if you operate the machine as intended.
  24. Troll

    Auger:

    Need the junk trailer to haul ATV's and such to our family property for the holiday weekend. I hoisted the compressor from it's perch and it'll just hang there until I return on Tuesday: This is where the axle slides through on top of the springs: Balled up spindle end of axle beam after grinding so I could remove the inner bearing. Got so hot it melted the rubber in the inner seal too: I get a lot of use out of the shop gantry. Right now it's collapsed down and when all the way up, I have almost 17 feet of under hook clearance. Makes swinging diesel engines and truck cabs easy but the lights are too low to move it much when extended: Winds of recent have have removed some facia from my building. Need to get the manlift, (seen in background) out to replace it after new arrives. I put the building up myself with a couple of friends so hopefully can remember how to run a screw gun.....
  25. Troll

    Auger:

    Thanks but really not an option to replace the stub on this one. I don't know why but the axle beam is solid 2.500" square bar with the spindles machined from that; all one piece. Really heavy to drag out of the compressor unit too by myself. I took it in to the machine shop I've used in the past and they were going to cut it off inboard of the leaf spring to chuck it and indicate on the inner bearing, or wheel seal surface as they appear unharmed. However when we were looking it over, I noticed both spindle ends were ground on an angle to the beam. Thinking it over on how the beam mounted in the leaf springs, I ascertained these are ground like this to yield a positive camber to the wheel ends when installed. To the naked eye, (mine) it appears to be between a two, and three degree angle from the horizontal plane but that's just a guess. I have ordered an axle kit including 2.00" square axle stubs, eight bolt hubs, "Timken" bearings, and seals from an online supplier. From the steel supplier a 7ft stick of C1045 2.50" square with .250" wall tube. I'll cut a slight groove. or "relief", into the axle stub for the internal tube weld seam to clear and then weld them up solid. I kinda like the look of the old rims so going to knock larger wheel studs into the new hubs and use one ton dually wheels, (I have) giving the required negative offset as the originals do. Only real difference in appearance is the eight bolt hubs as opposed to the original wide five bolt style shown here: The compressor is a 1962 build so a few things are long obsolete and I have to make due; but it runs very well and makes plenty of oil free air. None of this is a setback to me as I expect to need to work on things to keep them operational. I paid a kid two years back to repack the wheel bearings so I really don't know what went wrong there..... Ordered a new set of 10 ply tires for the skid steer trailer also and this trailer's tires will rotate to the old trailer the compressor now sets on. Between rain storms I cleaned up these antique John Deere mower decks and belt guard: The deck in front was from the early days of Deere lawn equipment I'm told. It's rough but going to be worked with as the tractor is a very low serial number unit.
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