Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

4 Neutral

About Troll

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Farmington, IL
  • Interests
    Antique working construction equipment, Mack and International Harvester antique trucks.

Recent Profile Visitors

314 profile views
  1. That orange one looks inviting to me. I'll yak at you later over it as have a couple of other irons going now. Thanks,
  2. I've put a lot of bottoms in gasoline tanks through the years when replacements were not available. Not hard at all but tank has to be clean and purged thoroughly prior to welding, (obviously).
  3. Another buddy of mine gave me a link to his electronic copy for a Series 92 Detroit Service Manual. It has very good photos of what is needed. It is very close to the 71 series manuals I have with minor differences for the later model engines. I can use it on the 6V-92TA engine I have in the truck.
  4. Try your somewhat local "Fleetpride" store. I seldom use them but they are plentiful around the country. I prefer the independent "small guy" still trying to make a living. You can get parts and rebuild that compressor for a couple hundred. You could also send it to REI in Chicagoland for a reasonable rebuild: https://www.rebuildersenterprises.com/ I've had them rebuild several over the years. Here is an ebay link if you'd like to go that way: https://www.ebay.com/itm/HALDEX-EL13040X-COMPRESR-COMPRESS/302901625115?hash=item468658011b:g:TEYAAOSwESZbNPNy:rk:4:pf:1&frcectupt=
  5. Buddy of mine owns a parts store and usually treats me right. You have a very common compressor.
  6. Without your original numbers: 13CFM part# KN 13040X $281.55 cost with no core charge shown 16CFM part# KN16040X $368.89 cost with $182.50 core charge AND 14 day lead time Those compressors use aluminum rods and usually the rod cap comes loose from lack of Loctite on the retention fasteners during the rebuild process. Although rare to occur with a "Like-Nu" branded rebuild, it can happen. The compressors are presure lubricated by the engine oil supply so they are not starved for oil.
  7. Nestor earning his keep and at the first task around the shop. My old scrap trailer sunk into the soft fill out back of the shop with the rains of recent and unseasonable warm weather. Figured since it was 18 degrees this morning it would be a good exercise for Nestor to attempt to get under the neck and move the trailer back a few feet to relatively virgin soil: As the trailer looked yesterday afternoon: Figuring out how to get under it: Yup, going to clear: Under and latched up. First time those jaws have closed since late 1985: I really
  8. Well then I guess I get the "extra" points as that Dodge has a V-10 gasoline engine and automatic transmission. I bought it new and it's original at 220K on the clock and with the exception of radiator, water pump, and alternator, has not had a wrench on it. That truck on the trailer weighs 26,200# and the extra steering axle and hood panel were just over 650# and the trailer is 7300# empty. Just a bit over weight and I snapped the photo after the 265 mile trip back to the shop. Truck's name is "Krusty" and she's quite trusty.
  9. Today I picked up a hydraulic steering pump, drive spline coupler, and gear adapter to put it together on the engine. It's from the left camshaft of a V-71 engine and going onto another V-71 engine in the same place so should work well. I'll get a couple of gaskets ordered tomorrow and call this part done.
  10. Used to hate that with disgruntled employees at the shops. I always kept vehicles indoors in the off hours so never really had a problem but security cameras worked several times in my favor.....
  11. Sure wish I had my old photos but lost a gillion of them when the basement flooded a while back. Some of my junk of which I still have all of it:
  12. I'd like to consider putting a different truck under my yard crane and prefer another R series. My RD-450 engine runs like a top but after I turned the truck over, (and it's bad shape otherwise) I'd really like to install another truck under the crane body. Really want to stay with an R series as kinda partial. Driveline in the replacement doesn't matter as everything under "Fred" is sound. Thanks,
  13. No, you don't need to break any injector lines loose. Just prefill your filters and water separator before buttoning everything up. You can remove the air cleaner and spray WD-40 into the intake manifold and it will start faster, but usually if both batteries are good in the truck it will crank about 15-20 seconds and fire off. Can't remember if the 93's had a "Schrader" type valve on the side of the filter housings or not, but if so, take them loose and crank engine till you see fuel spraying from them. The lift, and injection pump will purge the air through the injectors picking each cylind
  14. Thanks Keith. Wish I had something to fit among the group better but I really don't. Never really was around IH too much except an old H tractor I had for a bit and at TD-12 pipelayer purchased but never worked with. Ole "Fred" is safe as we've been together so long. Only thing I did to the H was tune it up, clean it up and someone whom seen it just had to have it. It was a wide front and I was going to use it for a mower.
  15. I don't do things the most environmentally conscience way ever, and some say the most healthy either; unless it's the best way. Here is what I use: I usually "strengthen" the mixture up a bit with additional methylene chloride, (technical grade) so it removes just about anything that isn't metal. When those kits are new they are good but the strength falls off quickly after about six months. Add another pint or so of methylene chloride solution and a bit of methanol and your off to the races again. The kit is about $150.00 to purchase so a bit much for a "one off" task. Pr
  • Create New...