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    Farmington, IL
  • Interests
    Antique working construction equipment, Mack and International Harvester antique trucks.

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  1. Thanks. I will be back over there about the first of the week. From the track gauge and pad width, along with the remaining layout, it could be a TD-30. Was a cable dozer but the push arms and blade are gone. The roller frame is all cast steel. Looks to be an IH 817 engine.
  2. Is there a stamping on the tractors someplace to identify this thing? It was TD-20 or better in size bit it's been exposed all the years and much has been robbed from it. Lot of heavy iron remains. We are going to scrap it out but there are still some serviceable parts so going to try to marry up any needs. However I need to know what this is before going further. Any aluminum tags are long rotted away. Thanks,
  3. If the wind is just right and I can still hear them rusting in the distance.
  4. Troll


    Going to finish up this thread with completion of this air compressor hitch weldment. All is fine and I stuffed another tube into the bottom tube for strength as it will bear most of the brunt of the pull. I did do the same to the vertical riser but did not photo that. I'm comfortable it will serve the purpose. Double tube install: Welded up solid and smoothed out both ends: Used existing holes as pilots and the pins go right through: Nice little project and I really enjoyed doing something for myself this time: I'll blast this clean and get some paint on it the beginning of the week so it will stay somewhat rust free. It will only be used when I pull the air compressor but may find use on down the line when I build a heavier trailer.
  5. Troll


    Back on it's wheels again. I spaced the axle stubs into the tubes with .250" shoulder stickout to allow weld bead buildup and strength: You know the saying about a job done right so I packed the bearings myself this time: Getting close. All put back together and bolts cinched down. Getting ready to drop unit close to floor to hang tires. Here is weight on wheels: Hitched up the truck and went down the road for a spell to wear things in. I then retorqued the lug nuts and calling it good. However, tiring of the "nose down" attitude of the compressor when pulled with my pickup, I decided to build this to elevate the tongue to level and it seems to work well: Tomorrow I'll insert this tube into the larger tube for additional strength and cap the end closed: I like it a lot better than the original:
  6. Pretty nice on the outside but crusty underneath. Ran well with a 345V8 and automatic:
  7. Troll


    Dustless blasting is expensive up front and I don't feel it's as effective for doing what I do. Glass based media is great for paint removal but useless to remove corrosion or rust. Kinda expensive also. Granted the dust generated is a lot less but cleanup with a large shop, or truck mount vac is just like vacuuming your living room and not difficult. Most of the stuff I do will easily clean up and smooth out with a d/a sander due to a minor surface profile let behind that is very clean. If you look in the sale ads for blast equipment there is about a 5:1 disparity in the conventional vs dustless variety available; used. Lot's of young "starry eyed" guys go knee deep in debt to purchase these things to discover the job isn't as easy as the salesman let on. A few iterations of that and the equipment goes up for sale as a substantial loss to the seller ultimately.
  8. Troll


    2.50" square by .250" wall C1045 steel tube which is much stronger/tougher than C1018. I don't know what the spindles are machined from. Typical of tube that is not DOM there is an internal weld seam from the manufacturing shown here at the right side of the tube interior: This is one of the replacement spindles which needs to slide into the interior of the tube: As can be seen in the photo the weld bead precludes this spindle sliding into the tube. A little measuring and grinding a slot with a "Zip" wheel and it slides in easily with minimal force. Alignment is good also: Did some measuring to allow a 1.00" clearance from the tire sidewall to body and this fit well having the tire tread centered in the fenders as original: Overall pretty happy with the task but it's been tough fitting it into the schedule. The blasting business is growing faster than originally anticipated. Seems with the economy in the tank as it is folks are electing to rebuild and repair older equipment rather than replace if a replacement is available. Myself attempting to specialize in mobile, (away from my shop) blasting seems to be a large draw. I have several antique tractors and implements on the docket to get to this summer.
  9. Troll


    Not a bad little repair and all fits and aligns as it should with weight on wheels:
  10. Unless wanting to stay somewhat original in appearance, I'd consider a more modern hydraulic driven winch myself. Easy enough to mount a dedicated hydraulic pump and reservoir along with controls where you want them.
  11. Troll


    Axle kit shipped to incorrect address but I did receive it today. Need to taper the lug holes on the one ton dually wheels I'd use for stud piloting, but the outer bearing housing protrusion wouldn't be bothersome at all such as a knee buster. Just for shtz & grins I used my crane dynamometer and the compressor weighs 4285# without the axle, wheels, or tires installed. That leaves me to think it's about 4800# fully dressed and ready to work. I set the compressor back onto the car hauler as have a couple more small tasks to tend to tomorrow with the compressor. I did speak with the machine shop again this afternoon and thinking I'll have them manufacture two new spindles matching the undamaged one originally from the compressor to reuse the original hubs, and wheels. If they can get this done next week I'll just emulate the original axle very closely and reutilize the original pieces with new bearings, races, and seals. I've been needing to build an undercarriage for my Hobart diesel welder for a while now and would utilize the new parts for this if the stars align correctly.
  12. If you have a helper available and can weld decently you can weld a section of 2" round stock to another piece to be used as a handle. While holding the handle, place the section of 2" round against the axle and have the helper smack the round stock. No fingers, or parts are sacrificed this way and a lot of "force" is transferred directly into the axle flange. Two jack stands and a piece of round stock work well also if on a level plane. I've routinely cussed silicone, Permatex, gasket maker, (whatever you care to call it) getting these out for years and it can be tough at times. Do use a moly paste or even chassis grease on the tapered cones when going back together and save the future headache when it needs to come apart again. In the days of inboard brake drums removal of these was routine. Nowadays, not so much so they stick much more often. I have aattachment I'd purchased for the task when running my truck wrecker operation years ago that is OTC and attaches to the wheel studs. There are arms that hang down and attach to the "divots" in the hub between the axle shaft retention studs and these are tightened from a horizontal screw threaded apparatus pulling the jaws together. You start wrenching down on the forcing screw nut and that axle will pop free. I find it difficult to set up but it does work when most other possibilities are futile. 10 minutes setting this up on the side of the highway by yourself in the middle of the night gives your butt plenty of time to pucker up with today's inconsiderate driver's too. Here is your earlier photo and I've circled in yellow the "divots" mentioned. The jaws of this puller setup clamp the back side of the axle flange in this and the opposing area and exert the pulling force through the wheel mounting, (lug) studs. Nothing is damaged in the end but it can take a lot of force to extract the axles. I think the puller jaws are rated at 10 tons.
  13. Think I've located a manual but cannot attach a .pdf. Send me your email address and I'll get it to you. Looks like it is PTO driven and hydraulic power shifted.
  14. I've air arc'd my share on trailers and most anywhere a weld needs removed with my old Hobart engine drive machine. 1/4" carbons are a great compromise for speed and control but you better leather up and wear ear plugs or you'll be burnt and deaf like me..... I actually favor my Hypertherm PM105 plasma machine for the process these days. It does a great job and is a lot less cost to operate in consumables. I cut the upper flat from my drop deck and installed all new along with a plate of 3/8" with an SKF/Holland king pin. Plates last a lot longer when the 5th wheel is kept greased, but beating that into some operators.....
  15. Lightly grease the outer taper and use quality Nylok nuts to keep the water out of the area and there is a LOT less grief the next time they need removed.
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