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Troll

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About Troll

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Farmington, IL
  • Interests
    Antique working construction equipment, Mack and International Harvester antique trucks.

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  1. That orange one looks inviting to me. I'll yak at you later over it as have a couple of other irons going now. Thanks,
  2. I've put a lot of bottoms in gasoline tanks through the years when replacements were not available. Not hard at all but tank has to be clean and purged thoroughly prior to welding, (obviously).
  3. Try your somewhat local "Fleetpride" store. I seldom use them but they are plentiful around the country. I prefer the independent "small guy" still trying to make a living. You can get parts and rebuild that compressor for a couple hundred. You could also send it to REI in Chicagoland for a reasonable rebuild: https://www.rebuildersenterprises.com/ I've had them rebuild several over the years. Here is an ebay link if you'd like to go that way: https://www.ebay.com/itm/HALDEX-EL13040X-COMPRESR-COMPRESS/302901625115?hash=item468658011b:g:TEYAAOSwESZbNPNy:rk:4:pf:1&frcectupt=
  4. Buddy of mine owns a parts store and usually treats me right. You have a very common compressor.
  5. Without your original numbers: 13CFM part# KN 13040X $281.55 cost with no core charge shown 16CFM part# KN16040X $368.89 cost with $182.50 core charge AND 14 day lead time Those compressors use aluminum rods and usually the rod cap comes loose from lack of Loctite on the retention fasteners during the rebuild process. Although rare to occur with a "Like-Nu" branded rebuild, it can happen. The compressors are presure lubricated by the engine oil supply so they are not starved for oil.
  6. Nestor earning his keep and at the first task around the shop. My old scrap trailer sunk into the soft fill out back of the shop with the rains of recent and unseasonable warm weather. Figured since it was 18 degrees this morning it would be a good exercise for Nestor to attempt to get under the neck and move the trailer back a few feet to relatively virgin soil: As the trailer looked yesterday afternoon: Figuring out how to get under it: Yup, going to clear: Under and latched up. First time those jaws have closed since late 1985: I really
  7. Well then I guess I get the "extra" points as that Dodge has a V-10 gasoline engine and automatic transmission. I bought it new and it's original at 220K on the clock and with the exception of radiator, water pump, and alternator, has not had a wrench on it. That truck on the trailer weighs 26,200# and the extra steering axle and hood panel were just over 650# and the trailer is 7300# empty. Just a bit over weight and I snapped the photo after the 265 mile trip back to the shop. Truck's name is "Krusty" and she's quite trusty.
  8. Sure wish I had my old photos but lost a gillion of them when the basement flooded a while back. Some of my junk of which I still have all of it:
  9. I'd like to consider putting a different truck under my yard crane and prefer another R series. My RD-450 engine runs like a top but after I turned the truck over, (and it's bad shape otherwise) I'd really like to install another truck under the crane body. Really want to stay with an R series as kinda partial. Driveline in the replacement doesn't matter as everything under "Fred" is sound. Thanks,
  10. Thanks Keith. Wish I had something to fit among the group better but I really don't. Never really was around IH too much except an old H tractor I had for a bit and at TD-12 pipelayer purchased but never worked with. Ole "Fred" is safe as we've been together so long. Only thing I did to the H was tune it up, clean it up and someone whom seen it just had to have it. It was a wide front and I was going to use it for a mower.
  11. I don't do things the most environmentally conscience way ever, and some say the most healthy either; unless it's the best way. Here is what I use: I usually "strengthen" the mixture up a bit with additional methylene chloride, (technical grade) so it removes just about anything that isn't metal. When those kits are new they are good but the strength falls off quickly after about six months. Add another pint or so of methylene chloride solution and a bit of methanol and your off to the races again. The kit is about $150.00 to purchase so a bit much for a "one off" task. Pr
  12. Also acquire a couple sheets of 220 grit silicone carbide, (wet or dry) sandpaper and a smooth steel bench top. Tape the sandpaper securely to the bench top with abrasive side up. Oil it up a bit with hydraulic oil or something thin and scrub the bottom of the head while the valves are out. Polish it good till the scratch pattern is smooth and even by moving the head casting in a figure 8 pattern across the sandpaper. I then either place the cylinder head and small parts into the kitchen dishwasher running in the overnight hours and get up REALLY early, (to not get caught) so any "grit" is was
  13. Keep in mind I know absolutely nothing about the Midland 1300, or 1600 series air compressor on your truck but here's a link for parts you'll want to replace: https://www.amazon.com/Midland-El13111-El16111-Compressors-Interchange/dp/B00V5APV3K Drain the coolant down in the truck and remove the compressor head. Clamp the head to a bench, warm the socket headed screw in plugs, (softening the loctite compound) retaining the exhaust valve disc(s) with a propane torch and screw them out using an Allen wrench. Discard the sealing plates. The intake check valve housings have three eliptical slo
  14. What compressor; Bendix, Midland, or Cummins? Sounds as if you have a valve/unloader hanging open and if the governor is ruled out, remove it from the compressor, (if direct mounted) and ensure the compressor is/is not pushing air out of it's head by disconnecting the discharge line while the engine runs. All compressor heads are easy to service or repair with a kit. To cease making air without degradation of air output sounds like a Cummins compressor as they are single cylinder.
  15. Ahh, that make sense Mike and thanks. I've built several trailers for "specialty" use using Mack "camelback" tandems and steel beam for such as moving barns. Been about 15 years since the last one but we moved a large three story wooden barn almost 1.75 miles across fields and a road using truck tandems and a D6D Caterpillar tractor for the pulling unit, a JI Case tractor backhoe for positioning, and my winch truck at times for jockeying things. Went pretty smooth once the structure was lifted and set onto the beams. Only had to cross two ditches so wasn't too bad to fill them in, timber over,
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