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Everything posted by J-Mech

  1. Are you talking about the plug you labeled #1 in your picture? It unscrews. Use a wrench. I would just fill in through the side hole.
  2. I'm having issues getting in contact with ASAP also. We've bought several thousand dollars worth of parts off them this year and now I can't get through on the phone and they won't return my calls. I do not know what is going on. As far as the spindle, some of them are from different manufacturers I think, which would be reflected in price, and possibly build style. I'm sorry I can't be more help, but look through the CIH online parts and find an OEM number that matches yours. Then you can check the cross reference list against the ASAP part. (OEM replacement numbers are usually listed.) I went through all this last year on a customer tractor. It took even me (a veteran tech) a while to get it narrowed down to the correct spindle.
  3. It only needs one seal. Sometimes the shaft needs a wear sleeve because it has a groove wore in the shaft. Putting in a double seal might fix it. You may have just pushed the inside seal into the nut also. But since you are new to old tractors and you painted this all up, I'm assuming you are acting as a collector of sorts and won't be using the PTO. If you do use it, you will know pretty quick if you fixed it. Sliding the seal over the splines won't hurt it. I guess it doesn't hurt anything to wrap the shaft like you did but next time wrap it from the front of the shaft to the rear so that the seal is sliding down the edges instead of against them. Putting lithium grease in the rear bearing was not necessary or probably for the best. It won't dissolve in the oil. The bearing runs in oil and does not need any other lubrication. It appears the gasket is still available through CIH. While you may be new to old tractors, bear in mind the overwhelming majority on this forum are not. I would say that as a percentage, probably 96% or more of us have been around them our entire lives. The forum is also made up of a lot of mechanics that work on tractors, and have most of (our) lives. Just because you look for information on a particular topic and don't find it may not mean anything. There may be no info on it because, to most of us, it is just normal operational repairs. Since you are new to old tractors, feel free to ask questions. I understand you want to share what you are learning, but since it is all new to you keep in mind it likely is not new to us. We are here to help. Hopefully your leak is gone and you don't chew up the inner additional seal.
  4. Congratulations. You performed a basic tach repair by replacing every component.
  5. All those spindles are spec'ed out on the site. Spline count, size, length. Then the wheel spindle bearing size. It is frustrating there are so many different ones. Pull yours all the way out and measure it, compare to the specs for new. Only way to know which one is right. We can't verify your spindle size, only you can.
  6. You are an accident waiting to happen, you know that?
  7. I would have used something harder than grade 8. 9 at least. 10 if you can find it. Studs from a dealer should have been good. I think you'll break the grade 8 bolts fairly quick.
  8. The company I posted that makes new plates has new filler rings too.
  9. Any machine shop, even a bad one, can make that component. This is like an easy, easy fix even if parts are NLA from the manufacturer.
  10. Yes, fill the front until it runs out the hole and get as much in before putting the cap on. You want the sight glass full. I fill ours running. Rear is hy-tran. Blown hoses are no fun on that machine. Easier to replace before everything is oil soaked and hot. I replaced the coolant puke tank on ours too. So far so good, but it sits inside when not in use, and most of the time at night. I guess if you followed or read through my build thread on our 4586, you'll see we took a different approach. Instead of seeing if it was a good tractor, we made it a good (and very nice) tractor and then put it in service.
  11. Not all plates are metal. Not arguing or making fun or anything, but used plastic plates are usually less than $5 a piece. Seems like a lot of work for something so cheap. I agree.... if you have metal plates it is an option.
  12. Company that makes new: https://lincolnagproducts.com/product-category/corn-plates/ihc-corn-plates/
  13. Here is just one example: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lustran-International-Planter-Plates-/254565258712
  14. I think Lustran still makes plates for these. I have an IH plate planter and have had no issues finding different plates. There is a seller on ebay that sells a very wide selection of plates. I think most are used and have no idea how he gets them, but he's easy to find. Just search "International planter plates" on ebay.
  15. I think you mean service ports. Service valves haven't been on cars since like the 60's. Equipment used service valves into the 80's for some reason.
  16. It's just wood. Easy fix. Looks to be in great shape to me! Get a pump up sprayer. Fill it with used oil. Coat the inside of the box before using. Manure won't stick to it that way. After using it, it just falls off. Prevents rot of both the wood and metal. Since yours has never been oiled, I'd soak it good and let it sit to soak in before use. Might need to do it a couple times before it is saturated enough to keep manure from sticking.
  17. Yes. But the valve cover on an 8.3L has a baffle made into it for the breather. No way to disassemble or anywhere for a filter to go. Very obvious if you are looking at the inside of the cover.
  18. I don't doubt a new filter fixed it. But it had nothing to do with the seal. I'm trying to get you to understand why.
  19. Sounds like you did the right thing on the pre-ignition chambers.
  20. Guess you aren't old enough to have known about converting an 806 to spin on. Used to be more common.
  21. Seal is unrelated. My bet is the last set of filters you installed were either incorrect, or plugged up immediately with contaminated fuel. The esl would make no difference on fuel flow, only filter quality. If it isn't sealed well fuel can bypass the filter media. This is yet another example of someone doing something and not understanding what they found and blaming it on something made up. Sorry man, I'm not picking on you, but try to understand in your mind that in order for fuel to flow out of the filter housing port, all it must do is enter and exit through the two holes. It does not have to pass through a filter media. You could screw a can onto the housing and it would flow fuel. The seal you describe as present on one but not the other, simply prevents cross contamination between filtered and non filtered fuel. In other words it prevents fuel from bypassing the media. It has zero affect on whether fuel flows into and out of the filter. The only two possible explanations for the filters you removed not working is: they were incorrect, thus blocking or partially blocking a port or contained the wrong type of media. OR, they were immediately plugged up with contamination. Only two options.
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