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J-Mech

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Everything posted by J-Mech

  1. Thanks guys. @ChrisNY I will send you PM when I'm not on my phone. We've actually spoke before on FB in an IH page. You sent me a pic of your combine. I know the man who had it here, and remember when he bought it new! @acem Thanks for the pictures! After you posted them, I dug out my old buyers guides. I too had a 1981 buyers guide but hadn't thought to look at them. As far back as I have is 1979, but it didn't have any interior pics to speak of. I need to see if I can find one on the 4wd tractor series specifically.
  2. Well, that answer surprised me. I meant it tongue in cheek, lol. I just assumed you took it off, then put it back on. I never would have thought you pulled it with it off.
  3. Very sharp truck! I love excellence in work! Just one question.... how'd you get that engine/trans out of the hole and not take the gear shift off? ?
  4. Ummm..... I don't have any pics of it, but they two disks will only go in one way and everything work. If you put one in backwards, it won't work. The two discs are different. Difference is in the center hub. FIRST, look and see if you can still read any ink stamps or stickers on them. They come marked. Sometimes even on an old clutch, you can still see the location on them. If not, then hold one up to the flywheel with the taller of the spring center side out (away from flywheel). See if the center of the disc hits the pilot bearing. Now try the other disc. If one hits, it isn't the right disc. Lay the cover plate down on the T/O bearing side, and put the disc in that doesn't hit the pilot bearing, with the taller spring side towards the ground. Then put in the intermediate plate. It should fit any of the 8 ways it can go in. (No way to tell which side was against which clutch.) Then stack the other disc on top of that again with the taller spring side facing the ground. The two discs should have a small space between them at the splined hub. If they are touching, either you need to switch places with the discs, or one is upside down. It's kind of a puzzle, but it will all only work one way. Ace, sorry I don't have any pics of the orientation.
  5. You can flip the ring gear in any of them as far as I know. Either IH or another company made forklifts from industrial tractors at one time. Reversed them. One dealer I worked at had a 2856 forklift. I don't know if it had a cotton picker r/p in it or just flipped around. Can't find any info about them.
  6. First of all, I never get lucky like that...someone giving me something, especially something like a tractor. And to boot a tractor I would really like to have and could use... Well, no more common than the "shuttle shift's" were, it isn't going to be easy to find one, but I can confirm that (at least) the parts book shows it offered for a 656. It wasn't offered on all tractors I don't think. You'll have better luck finding a Super MTA diesel than finding a 656 with the shuttle I think. So, I would suggest rethinking turning the tractor around. It's a pretty large undertaking. Plus, they (IH and other companies) made tractors that were reversed. If you got this tractor for free, fix it up nice and trade it for something more fitting to your needs. Or just return the favor and give it to someone else. I'm in Illinois if you don't know of anyone needing a 656. For IH "reversed" tractors, look at the IH forklift tractors like the 4500.
  7. Here's some pics of the rust pitting and factory seams. As you can see, where the side panels meet the floor, the seam was open on the outside, but solid welded inside. Now, both the left and right side of the cab were solid welded down both sides, and ground off smooth again. There was a lot of grinding to get all this stuff at least semi flat again. At least it's thick metal, and easy to work with. All the patches were solid welded inside and out, with no warpage to the metal. That's according to "now" as I haven't ran a sander over any of this yet. Just polished out the grind scuffs with progressively finer flap disc wheels on a die grinder. I'm sure a little bit of bondo will be necessary.... Just as a note, I'm doing all this welding with an ESAB Migmaster 250. Anyone who has never ran an ESAB welder needs to go buy one now. I've welded with all the major brand welders, and I'm sold on ESAB. I prefer it to Miller, and Miller makes a fine, fine machine. I have about 5 welders (as a note) and the ESAB is my favorite. My second favorite is my (very old) Miller portable AC/DC stick. It's old enough that if I want to use the generator portion, I have to shut it off and flip a manual DPDT switch under the hood. It's a pain, but it's a great welder. Has on old Onan on it, and it's been sitting several years now needing some minor engine repairs. I need to get it out and get it fixed, if nothing else than the generator is pretty big, and could be used in an emergency. Well, we're getting close to where I am now. Only about a week or 10 days behind my current work. Stay tuned!
  8. Thanks again for the interest guys, and thanks for the patience waiting on me to update you all. Between my wife and I we have 5 kids between the ages of 8 and 13. I'm pretty busy when I get off work. We are a blended family, so we don't have all 5 all the time.... but it seems like there is always an event, homework help needed, someone not feeling good, a birthday, one set of kids coming or going to their other home, or just time that needs spent with the kids. (Summer/warm weather is worse with yard, garden, farm, my side mechanic work...) Between that, the fact I also have my own forum, ( A little plug for myself: It's a brand new Cub Cadet forum started this last fall. Link is on my profile page to anyone interested.) I've got a lot going on! It actually takes a lot of time to sit down and type all this up, organize the pictures.... anyone who's done a thread like this knows, lol. So.... lets see if I can make at least one more update. We left off with the cab getting stripped and things going to the blaster. I got sick the week the parts were at the blaster, and it got cold as all get out here, at like -15 or something. (I'm sure you northern guys are laughing but coldest I've ever seen it here in my lifetime is about -25..... and lets get real, -15 is COLD!) You guys can see the shop at the farm in the background of my pictures.... no insulation. When the wind blows, it gets pretty cold in there. No heat on at night, so everyday you start all over again. It was too cold to work for a few days anyway, so if I could have picked a time to be sick, I did good. (Not funny, I was SICK.) I got better, and things warmed up. Parts got blasted and I went back to work. I started preparing to put the trans back in, but we needed a way to get it in. The telehandler was not the answer, as the guy running it is 30' foot away from the action, looking into a dark shed. Hard to move 1" forward if you can't even see you are moving. SO.... I started constructing a set of rails like like the IH tool. We plan to lay some beams across the frame to simulate the cab, and lay the track on top. Then we will have the tool to use inside the cab if the need ever arises to pull this thing again. But, some other machines on the farm needed some quick attention, so I side tracked that project to get them done. The sand blaster called, and we picked up the parts. Once they were at the farm, the hoods and smaller parts got stored in a heated building to keep them from rusting and the cab came in and got set up where the work could begin. (At this time the trans is still out, and we have decided to replace several hydraulic hoses, and do some more work inside the frame while it is out of the way. I will post pics of the tool, we made when I go back to putting the trans in.) Once the cab was in, hoised up it was time to start. Sandblasting didn't really open up the rot anymore than the de-scaler did, but once everything is bare metal, it sure makes the bad spots easier to see. Now... here's some good info. Apparently, it isn't all that uncommon for a large scale manufacturer like Steiger to have rolls of steel delivered for manufacturing that aren't necessarily a consistent grade. In other words, thickness may vary between the rolls of metal, and they may not be a standard metal size. The cab metal (side sheet metal) measured and looked like 1/8" steel, so I got some 1/8" steel. When I cut out the first piece, we quickly learned it wasn't just quick that thin. It was about .020"-.030" thicker. Not much I agree, but it was going to make the patches stand out like a sore thumb, and make using body filler a must. Something we wanted to keep to a minimum, or not use at all if possible. Sticking a caliper on the sheet metal, it showed about 5/32", but not just quite. Well, you can't easily get steel in that thickness.... but I was in luck. The fab shop we use just happened to have some metal in that they had ordered for their water jet table for the grate. They had ordered a full set of straps to replace the bars in the entire table, which is very large, and when they went to install it, it was supposed to be 1/8" but was too wide to go into the groove made for it. A fault of the manufacturer not getting the steel rolling machine set to a fine enough tolerance. Very similar to how large scale productions work I guess.... close enough is close enough.. well, they got stuck with a huge pile of these like 12' long by 4" tall and ?? thick straps that just happen to be really close to an exact match to what I needed! So, we got some of it (they were more than happy to get rid of it, lol) and found it to be a near perfect match. First thing was to patch up the holes cut near the doors. We decided to paint the inside of the cavity and the bottom of the patch panel with some Rustoleum self etching primer and just flat black paint prior to welding them shut to hopefully cut down on rot. We also added some holes in the lower portion for drainage, and holes up top so that the cavity could be flushed out with air or water. They were completely full or rust when I cut them open. Over the next few pictures, as you see the finished work, the lighting makes it look like there are low spots, or erosion from the weld. While there may be, the camera makes it look bad and it's not. It may need a little body filler to make it completely flat, for the most part I think the epoxy primer, some 2K high build primer and sanding and they will disappear. It isn't a show tractor, but we want it to look decent. In this last picture, you can see that the sheet metal above the patch is heavily pitted with rust. Not sure that we are going to worry about it, but that's the kind of thing I'm talking about with it not being a show tractor. I'll throw in a couple pics after it that show some pitting and the factory seams that were left as is. The splices in the sheet metal are all welded on the inside, but not the outside. That's how it was from the factory.
  9. I've never heard they advertised them as row crop tractors.... new one on me. We were doing some measuring the other day, and I really don't think you could get it narrow enough for 30" rows though unless you set it to straddle 4. I'm going to have to throw a tape on that tomorrow and look! Interesting. Thanks for the offer Ace. May take you up on it, because as of yet, haven't found one....
  10. I'll go back and look at the pics with the side rails. Not to skip ahead, but we did some looking at the original handle today, and at ones that might work out of vehicles. Didn't make any decisions, as we had some other more important issues to address, but the parking brake got some attention anyway. We did make some calls to salvage yards, and much to our surprise, NO CABS in any so far! I don't know if they got the parts stripped and the rest junked, or sold as a whole, but no luck as of yet finding any internal cab parts. Apparently, when these come into the salvage yards, they must have a waiting list for parts, because they everyone only had a few pieces left of the machines. Waiting on All States Ag Parts to get back to me now. They are checking all their yards for the parts I requested. I like your description of how you fitted the foot style brake. Understand, this is my project, but not my machine, so I operate at the direction given. I think the foot style brake is an easy conversion, just need a commitment to make it so. On the topic of the seat, this one has the "good" seat, with the swivel base. We stuck it back in the cab today to do some fitting and planning for the RH console and buddy seat. Seems to be in good working order, but is missing the arm rests. I need to see if I can find them. A Magnum seat would be so nice.... Even nicer if the console was mounted to the seat, so it swiveled with you like the new tractors..... but I can't get carried away, lol. K.I.S.S. is the best approach. (Keep It Simple Stupid) LOL. Oh, and by the way I laughed out loud at the story of backing up to the implement and being 1" off. Isn't that always the case? Then, you get everything hooked up and you have at least one set of hyd hoses backwards.....or you hit the lever and one pops out because you didn't have it latched in tight.... and you have to get back down again! ?
  11. That's fine. I just wondered if it was before or after the brake updates. (SN 1500+) Duals though.... I hope we convert this one once we determine it's a good machine!
  12. Sometimes you can just loosen the line, tighten the fitting and your done. No, thread locker isn't rated for the pressures produced in diesel injection. It won't help, nor is it a good idea to use. If just a tiny bit of it gets in the line and goes to the injector.... could be bad. Don't take the head off the pump for any reason. Sometimes the delivery valve in the center will blow the copper ring and leak. You sure it isn't that? If you can't tighten it up and it stop leaking, pull the pump and send it in. Head is probably bad.
  13. @Jeff-C-IL I didn't want to quote your whole post, so I'll just tag you instead. Thanks for the comment/advice on the LED's. It helps! On the driveline, I too hope I have different results. Seems like an odd deal. Our neighbor has two Steiger Bearcats, which is as near as I can tell, the comparable Steiger tractor to the 4586. Ours is a '77 and his are '78's. Steiger driveline was different, and I can't recall now if the T-case swings on them too or not. Either way, the driveshafts were longer due to the truck diff's used in them. Much more room under the Steiger. I really don't know why IH didn't just supply the engine with different styling, paint and decals and use more of the same Steiger main parts. Maybe to keep them different? Either way, a truck axle is a better choice for sure. Better parts availability than the specific parts that IH used. (At least 45 years later anyway, lol.) I will be sure and post up anything I find about the calipers when I get to them. Trying to get the cab and sheet metal done so it can go off to paint. The guys are really worried about the painting for some reason.... I'm worried about getting everything right BEFORE paint is applied. I really want to put the cab on now and check everything out, build the RH console and then paint it all at once. That way no "wish we'd done that before we painted it" happening. Sounds like you had an issue in your trans. Bad gear, bearing or something. Some transmissions are noisy, but there's usually good reason. We do still have the original seat. It's actually in really good shape, except it's missing the arm rests. Going to try and get a set. We talked about replacing it with an air seat, and may later. That's the hope. At this point though, the seat is in good shape, and it will likely stay for now. I do know one thing though.... that b*****d is heavy!!! We liked to busted a gut taking it down and out of the cab! Thing must weigh 150#!! Air seats out of trucks are pretty cheap... but don't swivel. We'd rather put a seat from like a 9300 CIH in it, or a Magnum seat, but dang they are expensive. CIH had seats in their flier in January at like $1100 for a complete seat, and $750/$800 for just a good base. We passed for now, lol. But that doesn't mean it won't get changed later. YES! We are trying to change the parking brake over to the newer style up on the dash. You don't have a pic of what you did, do you? When I looked at the parts book, I recognized the new foot style parking brake to be from a GM. My research came back as an "A" body GM car. (Chevelle, El Camino, Monte Carlo) Looking for one of those to use. Used or new. Or one from a late model 43/45/4786 out of the salvage yard. Either way, the plan was to move it so we could add a "buddy" seat there. Stupid place for a parking brake handle in my opinion. Why they didn't put it on the other side, I don't know. I like the later foot style better anyway. We don't figure it will get used much anyway. Like Randall said today, "If you have an implement on, just set it down!" Stay tuned for more.... haven't gotten to the RH console just yet. Still got quite a bit more to post pictures (and discuss) of what's been done to get you guys caught up to where I'm at now.
  14. I agree about people misusing them and their idiosyncrasies. Like the clutches going out due to too high RPM and taking off under a load. Yeah, the hytran in the trans is odd, but the fluid level is a bit higher, and it circulates fluid through it. Not sure it's better, but keeping oil flowing through it can't hurt. Keep the comments coming. I'm enjoying sharing this build!
  15. Ok, so I'm going to try and catch up a bit more tonight, and go back through the responses..... but first, I would like to see if any of you guys with these can help me out on a couple things real quick. So, the interior of this thing was already out (as you saw in the first pics) and was missing a few things. I'm missing a few parts, and some interior pics would really be helpful if anyone has a tractor with good cab foam in it. What I'm missing is below: There is supposed to be a bezel around the HVAC controls up top and to the right. We don't have it. If anyone still has that, can you take a picture and post it? Is it attached to the cab or the interior cab foam? I don't see any holes for mounting it.... so, I'm assuming it is just held on with the foam? Or is this a later model piece? Parts book does not give a SN# break for it, but it does list 3 different foam pieces for that corner of the cab depending on SN. Odd... I don't know what changed. Anyone have a pic? Second, the cab was also missing the top rear panel that covers the exterior light wires, and holds the speakers. If anyone has a pic of that it would help. Making one isn't the issue.... It appears to only mount with 4 screws to the angle iron on the back of the cab. I think we need to add some more braces up top, but I need to see how it looks mounted with cab foam in it. Does the upper foam go back beyond it? Parts book lists a separate piece of foam for it, so I'd just like to see how it should look, if anyone can help out. Last thing, we plan to convert the parking brake over to the new foot pedal style on the dash. I know where it goes, and I've looked at the parts book.... but what I need to know is, is it mounted to the dash, or the cab front plate? Perhaps both? Parts book isn't clear, and none of the service manuals show it either (unless I missed it). If it mounts to the front of the cab, are there studs? Threaded holes? Any help is appreciated. We are trying to make it as close to stock as possible. These guys love stock (original) tractors. We seldom modify anything unless there is good reason, and we all hate the location of the early parking brake. We like the later one. I think I found the automotive application for the foot brake, but I'm going to do a bit more digging. Or.... if anyone has a parts machine and wants to sell the foot style parking brake, covers and mounts, I'm open to that too! Thanks in advance!
  16. I haven't put the trans in yet, but yes. A grease hose will be added. I don't agree that is a daily grease item though. I figure the clutch will get used about 5 times a day on a busy day. And that's if I'm running it because I like to drink a lot.... then I have to empty it out, lol. Throw out bearings don't need much lube, but they need lube. I don't plan to go into the trans, but I had read that the AG spec units had different bearings. If ever I go into it, I'm sure I would have noticed. I've rebuilt a lot of trans, but never been into a 1010 Spicer. Thanks for the heads up! I agree, the 2" shaft wouldn't have been a bad upgrade. But..... it is what it is. As I stated, it isn't going to get over a lot of acres a year. We figure if we use it as much as we like, it might get between 100-200 hours a year. 200 ONLY if we do fall tillage. I think it will be ok. It ran 2400 hours thus far without it. But again, no disagreement. Larger shaft would be better.
  17. Thanks! I appreciate the experience with the LED's too. To answer the question, no. We don't work at night much. Oh, we will run in the dark, but we only have about 12/1500 acres to get over. (Sorry, no one can tell me the exact number. Some is in pasture, and set-aside.) Usually, we will run into dark for a couple hours, and on occasion to finish up a field or area. I'm usually the one who will run until midnight, but that is only 2 or 3 times in the season. Not a big deal. ANYTHING has to be better than the incandescent 4411 lights!! We have a 3588 since it was new. Added a 6588 and then a 6788. Chris has the 67. When they brought it home, it looked decent, as in it had been painted, but not well, but the engine locked up it's first day in the field. I had my shop still then, so they bought it in. Actually drove it. After it cooled it started back up. We pulled the head and found nothing. They wanted me to button it back up, but wanted to dig a bit deeper. Pan is easy to get off, so I pulled it. There it was. It has scored a piston. You couldn't see it up top, but could down below. When we tore it down I told them it had happened before they bought it. PO must have scored it, painted up the thing and sold it off. They wondered why it was cheap for as good as it looked. The 35 and 67 have rear duals and 23 deg Firestone deep treads all around. The 65 is pretty rough. It came from a few miles north of where this 4586 was. It also had sat out all it's life, but relatively low hours. It's been a good tractor. We tore the cab apart two winters ago and put a kit in it, new seat and did some A/C and electrical work. Not the prettiest, but runs and works like a champ!
  18. With the clutch and turbo sent out for rebuild, it was time to get the cab inside and start stripping it down to see what it needed. After some short consideration, it was decided that it needed stripped, blasted, repaired, repainted and redone. Starting over was the best option. Took about two days to strip it all out. (I can't always stay on a job all day like in a shop. Stop to help out somewhere, wait for a helping hand, stop to fix something else.... farm work you know, lol.) Here's some pics along the way...... The cab was completely rotted at the doors, so I decided to cut out part of the cab floor that was covered below by the frame work. This way, it could be blasted inside of that area, and repaired. I figured why not blast out that cavity while doing it. I wouldn't have to deal with welding on rusty metal that way during the repair. Cab was completely gutted out, and after the cutting out the lower panels it and all associated cab parts were sent to the sand blaster along with the hoods, and front grille housing. Basically all the sheet metal and parts above the frame. I did run a descaler in the cab before sending it out. I knocked off as much rust scale as I could so we could see how big the holes really were. They were much bigger than they appeared to be before the paint holding it together was chipped off. Before going out, I took pictures of all the decals, and measured everything. The early style decals I can't find anywhere, so a local vinyl shop is going to reproduce them for us. I'll post more info on the vinyl when the time comes. No progress made on that yet, other than initial discussions, pictures and rough cost was laid out. Unfortunately, I did manage to break the last window I removed..... the freaking windshield of all windows. The largest one. We're going to have a new one cut for us. Too bad that the original decals on the window fell apart when it broke. I was however, smart enough to photograph them before trying to remove the glass, so we may have them made also. But the clear one with starting instructions was clear with black words. The vinyl shop can't make a clear decal.... so not sure if we will even mess with it or not.
  19. While the clutch was on it's way out the door to the rebuilder, I started work on the turbo. We don't know if it was from sitting outside, or just wear, but the expansion pipe between the turbo and the "S" pipe had become very loose and was actually out of the turbo when we inspected the tractor. Something we were actually happy to see, as that was no rain water was able to get into the engine. The top of the exhaust pipe was rotted pretty badly, and we wonder if the pipe was even covered while it sat out. I removed that ridiculously large and heavy cast S pipe and removed the turbo. I again, called up the shop that did my injection/turbo work when I was in business to find out they had sold out and were under new owners. Still very helpful, the guy was familiar with the turbo and said it could be fixed, but he was not able to do the work in house. He suggested contacting Area Diesel Service in Carlinville, Il. I did, and once again found a group of guys who knew exactly what I needed. He said they would be able to machine off the old flange on the exhaust housing and weld in a new one. They could make it back stock, or put on whatever flange we wanted. We opted to go with a flange to accept a V clamp so we could install a pipe to run the exhaust out from under the side of the hood for a side stack pipe. I drove the turbo to ADS and they began the work. To skip ahead in the time line, but staying with the turbo trouble, when they went to disassemble the turbo for inspection (I asked them to check it all out even thought they and I both thought it looked and felt fine) they found out the center bearing housing was rotted out and basically fell apart when they went to take the exhaust turbine housing off. A new center housing was available and installed. The work to the exhaust housing was done and the charger shipped back to us. We got it in late Wednesday afternoon last week. We unboxed it and it looked fabulous. Cudo's to ADS for great work. I didn't get any pics of the charger yet, but will when I go to install it. Price for the work I believe was well within an acceptable range. Here's a pic of the charger's wore out housing before it was sent in. (Again, I'll post pics of the rebuilt charger later.)
  20. So, lets see...... I recently cut ties to the shop I had used for years (like 15 years at least) for my clutch and driveline work. Too bad too, as they had done such good work in the past. So, I had to go looking for a new shop. Made some quick calls, and was referred to Mid-America Clutch in Evansville, In. I called them up and gave them the application, clutch numbers and info and got a guy who knew the clutch. He said that all parts except the cover disk were still available, and suggested bringing it to them, as in the past shipping companies had broken the covers and then everyone involved went on the hunt for a good used core. So, we drove it down. (About 100 mile one way trip.) In less than a week it was rebuilt, flywheel turned and ready to install. This time with ceramic buttons instead of semi-metallic. We did at this time consider doing the upgrade that IH suggested, which was going from a 1 7/8" input to a 2" input shaft, but decided against it as the input on the trans looked fine, and saw no benefit to spend the extra money. A decision I hope we don't regret. Not sure why that was a suggested upgrade (by IH), but I'm betting that as mentioned earlier, a lot of guys liked to pop the clutch with the engine revved or with a tool in the ground, which likely broke a lot of input shafts. I think we'll be ok. I don't recall exactly when in the work I reinstalled the clutch, but I did. I did drill a 3/8" hole in the bell housing at the dimple to let out any water or oil that may get into the housing, as there was no hole from the factory. Can't be a bad decision.
  21. Thanks for the comments and interest guys. I wasn't really sure if I would have any interest in this or not. Should have known better..... it is after all an IH machine, and not one people generally go through. Not many in use any more. Honestly, they were pretty scarce in my area too. Lots more green Steigers than IH 4wd tractors. Only knew of a few. They were either 45 or 4786's. I don't know of any 43's in the area. Dad had told me he really wanted a 4366 when he farmed, and I thought even demo'd a used one, but never bought it. @Jeff-C-IL I'm sure that we will like the tractor a lot. I'm not a stranger to 4wd machines, but the other guys have never ran them. Going to be a big difference getting used to it over the 2+2's I think. One big difference I think that at least Chris will like is the 45 steers much easier. FWIW, 2+2's steer pretty hard really. On the master cylinder, yeah... it's an easy cross. I already have a new one. Actually got it at O'Reilly's for like $45 if I recall correctly. Wasn't much. As far as the calipers and flushing the fluid, yeah... it will be flushed out. I'm going to take the calipers off and go through or replace them. I have a contact list about a mile long of vendors from when I owned my shop. I'm confident that they fit another application and won't be too hard to find. The master cylinder fit other IH truck applications. I'm betting the calipers were either used on GM or IH trucks. Steiger used a lot of GM stuff and IH liked to use parts from the truck division for things. I'll be surprised if I can't find reman calipers. If I can't, I have a vendor who should rebuild them or at least get me parts so I can. I'll keep you guys in the loop on that. While on that subject, for any transmission parts, contact General Truck Parts. I use the Chicago branch. They knew the trans by the model number, and I got like 4 or 5 gaskets from them with no issues and about 1/3 the price CIH wanted for 2. They told me no issues on parts availability for that trans that they were aware of. It was used in a lot of other applications. Thanks for the offer on the PDF files. I'll holler if I need them, but I do have all the original IH manuals now (reprint editions, but very good quality) and they have the wiring diagrams. Pretty easy wiring really. Not much to it compared to say a 2388 combine, lol. Or even a later model lawn mower in some cases, lol. As far as the driveshafts, they will get daily grease. We ran 2+2's for far too many years not to ignore greasing driveline and hing joints. I will say I think you likely had some other issue in the driveline to throw the shaft off the front axle. Shouldn't do that no matter the RPM. Maybe it was loose, or the telescope worn out... or the t-case swing not right... something. Shouldn't have done that. But I'll keep an eye on it. On the batteries, the other guys just don't like the location. They think it will be easier if they are on the outside of the frame. The later '86 4wd's and the 73/75/7788 tractors had them mounted under the cab on the top step. I think that's where they are going. Personally, I would be fine leaving them as is, because I'm a smaller guy, and I don't foresee having to get to them often, but I don't own the machine. They are a pain to get too, and it will open up the inside of the frame for access to other items, such as the driveline and brakes. When we went down and got it running, it took a lot of work to get them out as we couldn't start it to steer it to one side. Even if they had a jump post, they were basically froze and dead, so I doubt it would have ran. So, if all the batteries happen to die, you can't steer it to change them out. Not debating, just stating another point of view. I'm going to be very upset if we need ear muffs to run this when done! We plan to line the cab with Dynamat sound insulation, a new floor mat, and cab kit along with new cab mounts. Hopefully, that will take any ringing and metal noise vibration out of it. Dynamat (or similar brand) has proven to be fantastic where I've seen or installed it before. My brother did it to a Chevy truck he used to own, then installed a kickin sound system in it. With the doors shut, you couldn't hear the radio blaring inside. On the inside, it reduced road noise tremendously. This will be the first tractor cab I've installed it in. Hopefully, it will do what I've seen it do in other applications. On LED lighting, I'm definitely pushing for that..... I think it will happen, but we'll see. I'd just like to know what the difference is between a $35 LED work light and a $100 LED work light. Any comments are welcome!!! I'd love to hear what others have used with good success! Now, lets see if I can pick up on getting you guys caught up to where I'm currently at. Not sure I will get there tonight. I've only made it to about the end of the year (December/ early Jan) so far! Lots done since then! (In terms of work, lol.)
  22. Once the trans was out, it was time to see what made that clutch hold so tight. There was no water in the bell housing, but it was obvious it had a lot of condensation and perhaps even a little water ran into it over the years. For those unfamiliar, the 4586 used a dual disk, 14", 6 pad button clutch. This one still had the original clutch in it. The buttons on the clutch were made from the best material at the time in 1977... a semi metallic pad. They did hold good, but when moisture on a semi metallic pad and a steel flywheel get together, things get rusted stuck. At this point we knew it was getting a new clutch anyway, and of coarse it would be ceramic. When I got it out, here's what it looked like. The pads were stuck so hard, I had to take an air chisel to one of them to get it off the intermediate plate in the clutch. It was STUCK. As a note, the clutch pin on the lever at the the trans was pretty wore out, to say the least. Randall was suddenly worried it had been the whole issue, but I assured him it wasn't. When he watched me chisel the clutch disk off he agreed it was stuck, lol.
  23. Continuing on... We were unable to get the clutch unstuck at the barn, but the tractor did start run and drive as promised, so it was time to take it home. We grabbed a fellow farmer with a rollback, drop trailer and paid him to haul it the 50 miles home. Thank goodness he had a winch because no one wanted to drive that thing up the that trailer! Didn't take long and it was loaded and home. But now... what to do with it. We discussed different ways to try and unstick the clutch, but feared tearing up more things (or worse) with some of the ideas. We decided to try and play tug-of war with another tractor to see if we could jar it loose. What happened next, I wish I could share. Randall took video of it with his phone...... but technical difficulties with the input device (a nice way of saying he isn't too tech savvy) left it to stay on his phone with no way to share. We first tried the 856. It has loaded tires, it was handy to get out, and we didn't really know how much it might take to break it loose. Ok... that was funny. Here we are in the driveway on the farm, with a really large log chain between and 856 and 4586 and we are getting ready to play tug of war! It looked like adults vs the kids, and ended up just about the same. The 45 drug the 856 around backwards with the brakes locked like a toy at only an idle. We tried different gears, jarring it... you name it. That clutch never even attempted to break free. Well, if the 856 isn't big enough, lets get a bigger tractor. Now, the 2+2's are closer to the weight of the 45, but out of sheer fear of hurting a rear end, or a set of brakes, we opted for the 7250 MFWD Magnum. It has duals, and is up there in weight, and no fear of hurting that tractor. So, we went and got it out of the shed and tied them up. Ok.... that looks closer to a fair fight. LMFAO..... NOPE! This time the 45 not only drug the Magnum with the brakes locked while in 4wd, Chris put it in forward while I sat in the 45 dragging him down the driveway with my foot on the clutch at about 1400 RPM. The Magnum tires clawing forward with all 6 wheels and just cutting a furrow in the drive. We tried it about 4 times. The final pass the Magnum finally dug down to hard dirt and got a bite, and did manage to stall out the movement of the 45. The tires slipped. It was a draw. We gave up. Time to pull the trans and go after the clutch. After some debate and time spent looking over the rot on the cab, we decided it was probably best to just take off the cab. We knew what getting clutch out with the cab installed entailed, and it didn't sound like much fun. The neighbor has a hi-lift in the shed about 1/4 mile away, so we gave him a call to see if we could borrow it. First he had to come take a look at the new monstrosity and watch the tug of war video. After some laughs, he of coarse obliged the use the lift. Before we began, we formulated a plan of what we wanted to accomplish with the machine in it's entirety. The nasty fuel was drained from the fuel tank, which took some time. Once the crud was loose from the drain hole it went quick. We knew work needed to be done there. The lower portion of the cab was rotted pretty bad, and we had no idea how it would look under the floor mat. The metal plate area near the door that holds the mat in was rotted and gone. The brake master cylinder was leaking to a steady drip into the cab and under the mat. The cab kit was gone, as seen in the pics above. When we were inspecting the tractor, we noticed that the slip tube between the turbo and the "S" pipe had fallen out, and it looked like the turbo exhaust housing was beyond fixing. Turbo removal was going to be a must. We found the water pump to be a bit loose, but not leaking. All the fluids were to be drained, and a complete set of filters, belts and some hoses installed. (Main upper and lower radiator hoses look fine, and we plan to leave them.) Some hydraulic hoses... maybe all the hoses need replaced. The paint sucks. No one liked the location of the batteries, and we thought we would like to relocate them, but no official decision was made as to where or how. I made a list, and we got ready. Quick wash off on a semi-warm day then the tractor was pulled in and the disassembly work began. By late afternoon the cab was ready to come off. We waited until the next day and started that. Just as a note, I'm doing this all by myself unless I mention getting help. Not bragging, just making sure the story is understood. We also have cattle and the guys stay pretty busy with just that. I'm the mechanic.... this is what I do, lol. The cab was set outside for the time being to be looked at later. After the cab was off, it was but a few hours and the trans was ready to come out. Again, the other guys got busy with cattle, and I couldn't pull it myself so we waited until morning. I didn't yet have a service manual on the tractor, yet I could see the trans bell housing sat in a hole in the top of the front diff housing. It looked to me like it would come out, so we pulled it without jacking up the engine. After getting the manual and reading, I saw where it said to jack up the engine. I do agree it would make going in easier.... so it will get jacked up to go back in.
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