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Everything posted by J-Mech

  1. Did you install new bearings? Used the old ring gear correct?
  2. If the bearings are indeed worn out, an in frame overhaul is only a band aid. Check pressure. If low, I'd replace the oil pump and pressure regulator valve before I pulled the pan. Crankshaft driven oil pumps on any engine wear out much faster than their half speed cam driven counterparts. It's not uncommon for a 400 series to wear out an oil pump.
  3. More questions than answers. Is the throttle butterfly correctly installed? The edges are tapered so that it seals. It can physically be installed two ways, but only one way is correct. When the throttle is all the way at idle, does the governor completely close the throttle with the idle stop screw backed all the way out? Fuel level is likely still too high and that is why the main won't kill it when fully closed. Unfortunately, you can no longer go by book specs for float adjustment. Personally, I think the specific gravity of gasoline has changed. That is the only explanation that makes sense to me. I have recently had this issue multiple times, needing to set a float much lower because of an over full fuel bowl. From your lengthy description of the issue and my lack if being able to hear and see this tractor to investigate leads me to the conclusion that you have misassembled some parts, then misadjusted the carb. All related to the things I asked above. While the tractor may idle fine, idle can be set different ways. If the governor is not allowing the throttle plate to close, it cannot (because of carb design) switch to the idle jet. Idle circuit can only function at certain throttle angles. I'd say your throttle angle us past the point to access the idle circuit, or the butterfly is upside down. The likely reason it will still run with the main closed is too high fuel level in the bowl.
  4. On a standard tractor, an 8' cable is gobs plenty. I think the gauge 2+2 had a 10' cord. Just for anyone following along, Autometer has an extension "box" or controller so that you can extend the harness. A pyrometer's cord length cannot be changed because it is a calibrated length. So, Autometer designed a box that can read the thermocouple and then make adjustments for the length of cord needed. It is plug and play. Extension wires are not provided. It can add up to 75' of cord as I recall. It only works with certain Autometer gauges, so if you need it you have to choose a gauge style that will work with it. The dial type in the 2+2 I posted above will work with the extension, but the digital in the 9330 will not. Autometer had diesel pusher motorcoaches in mind when they built it, but works for combines or other applications as well. Adds to the cost, and pyrometers aren't cheap anyway, but so goes it. We discussed using it on the 2+2 but because we literally only needed like a few more inches of wire to mount the gauge elsewhere, it wasn't worth the extra cost. So we just put the gauge in an out of the way area that is still visible.
  5. Lube pressure is left over from regulated. So, T/A failure has nothing to do with it. (Well, kind of but not likely a t/a failure.) How are steering and brakes? Hydraulic seat?
  6. Yes. Correct. Here are two I have installed recently. Different gauges, different tractors. I would have turned on the pretty red number digital one in the 9330, but I wired it to the hour meter, so it only comes on when there is engine oil pressure. The one in the 2+2 is mounted where we could get it. We were extremely limited on a mounting point because of cord length. Just barely enough to get from the turbo into the cab and have enough slack for the pivot.
  7. I don't think charge would go to zero though. During plate lift off main pump still has to make enough pressure to say in plate lift off. Charge may drop, but I do not think it could go to zero. Does that sound accurate?
  8. Sounds plausible. Well, easy check. Load the PTO. Simply turning it on would prove nothing because as soon as pressure goes to zero it would stop anyway. Like I said, not super familiar with those tractors but PTO does not have its own pump as I recall, so loading the PTO would verify a bad drive.
  9. That would not be a new pump. That would be a used pump. With charge pressure going to 0, I think it is a bad charge pump, or charge pump starvation. Were you thinking bad charge pump or main pump? If main pump was going into plate lift off, there should still be charge pressure and pump signal pressure should read something. The main pump is capable of at least 700# as per his test. Sorry, I'm not super familiar with the 5100 series. Steering is supplied by main pump correct? Can someone confirm?
  10. I've never planted popcorn with it. Only sweetcorn, green beans and sunflowers with it so far. I didn't build it.... not quite. I bought the planter unit already mounted to the "cart". I did build the small hopper that is on it. Seemed silly to plant a garden with a bushel hopper when I only put in a coffee can of seed at a time.
  11. I am not here looking for any help. Thanks anyway. Well.... I'll just say enjoy your tractor.
  12. You know... after making my prior comment, I am now thinking I've seen some yellow number tachs....
  13. I'm not sure I would have admitted to that. Do you still work at CIH?
  14. I've never heard that. Not saying it is or is not true. Never seen a yellow number tach.
  15. As of the last several years we have found the OEM sender units to not hold up. It is either that or the data center also has issues. We even replaced a sending unit and had the data center sent off and checked only to reinstall it and the EGT still not work. I suggest installing an aftermarket gauge. I have been installing Autometer EGT gauges.
  16. Seems to be inconsistency in our responses. So, this is what I suggest: Make sure it doesn't have an oil switch. It will take you approximately 20 seconds to verify this if you are slow. Next, using either a test light or a DVOM, take the lower access panel off and test to see if the cab power relay is staying energized. If it is, check for power on the signal wire from the key. Just keep working your way through the system until you find the component that is staying energized. Once you find it replace it. You may even find a short in the system during your tests. This is what technicians refer to as "diagnosis". Or, you can just start replacing random parts like the key switch, cab power relay, and other components until it is fixed.
  17. My mistake. I looked at a few different ones before sending that link. One of them must have listed sending unit size because I read it. Either way, I've installed several transmission temp gauge kits. The sending unit is NPT. If you are the skeptical type, call them to confirm. It will play, I'm certain.
  18. There was a switch on some 86 tractors and it only controlled the digital data center. Yours may not have that switch, or it may have been removed. I do not recall what changed and when. Remember, originally the 86 series came with the round mechanical tach that was used on the 66 series, then switched to the turn dial digital style and later switched to push button. As far as the hour meter working erratically, it is likely that the tach has internal issues. I can't think of anything else that would cause it. I've seen it before. I replaced or had it rebuilt/repaired.
  19. Push button style. Look for the oil pressure switch as suggested earlier.
  20. The link lists sender size. I guarantee without any reservations whatsoever that the original sending unit is standard pipe thread. You will have no issues using the gauge supplied sender, but may need a simple adapter sold at any automotive or hardware store.
  21. Two options: 1.)buy a socket that is meant for that style of plug. It may be able to get it out because they fit better than the drive of a 3/8" rachet. 2.) Weld a nut to the plug to remove it, then buy a new plug. Grab the stem with a small pipe wrench or channel locks. Personally I would just leave it be and fill via the side hole.
  22. What does the cross look like?
  23. FWIW, I think you are both right. Need to know which data center he has, or a serial number. I thought they both had to have power from the oil pressure switch to avoid being able to shut off the key to avoid gaining hours.
  24. Grouping these two questions together.... yes, there are alternative temp sensors and gauges available. Just one example: https://www.jegs.com/i/B%26M/130/80212/10002/-1?gclid=CjwKCAjwxuuCBhATEiwAIIIz0QxgP2fOpfLhR7up1JwYdz1Zw4RSNl0nCr9Aj98eEI5KWW8FUAp-xBoCl9gQAvD_BwE
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