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J-Mech

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J-Mech last won the day on July 1 2019

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About J-Mech

  • Birthday November 24

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    https://www.everythingcubcadet.com/

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Oblong, Il
  • Interests
    Cub Cadets, IH machines, motorcycles

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  1. Ok. My bad. Looked like it was broken. But I see now the seal retainer is larger than the bushing. This is the cat II system. The o-ring rides on the lower link assembly. There are 2 o-rings for the left side. Had you replaced both? Is the lower arm mount pitted?
  2. Tube is very hard. Too hard to weld or even spray weld on. It will break if you attempt this. Guaranteed. It's like welding an axle. Seal retainer appears broken. Circled in green. Unless my eyes are playing tricks, this is your issue. Replace the retainer.
  3. It's not the bushing. How does the tube look? Pitted? Edit: wait.... looks like the seal retainer is broken on the bottom. Can you confirm?
  4. I assuming it does have 3ph though, correct? If no, you aren't getting a loader. If yes, your going to have to do some plumbing. I think you can unhook a line and tie into it, but will need to pull a plug for return. 2200 or 2250 loader are the correct models. 2200 is mounted. 2250 is quick mount. Both should be super easy to find, but may not be close to you. Auction time, Big Iron, Irons each and just a few places to look along with local listings. Google helps a lot.
  5. Leak may be something else. Are the bushings wore? Are they coated in a red material still?
  6. Jim, I'm pretty sure #6 is a plug for the back of the camshaft. Coolant leak about has to be on the outside back of the head and running down. A little bit of washing and looking should reveal it.
  7. Get a piece of (min) 5/8" all thread. Make up some large flat "drivers" large enough to go against the bushings. Need to be heavy. At least 1/4" thick, but 5/16", 3/8" or more is better. Use the bolt and washers to pull the old set into the housing, and to pull the new set in. Separate note: I in the middle of switching the original 2pt/cat II, 3PH off and 856 and over to cat III. Tractor has 13000+ hours on it with I'm confident over half used on 3pt. (Tractor has been in the family since new.) This swap required the lower bushings get changed because size changes. The old one were not wore in even the least. If your old ones look good, leave them alone. I don't recall whether the 986 had the cat II or III lower torsion shaft. You may have to remove the o-ring retainers to remove the bushings.
  8. To change the bearing you are going to need a long punch, or a slide hammer.
  9. I typed out a response, but decided it isn't worth it. I'm not going to add to the drama you're causing.
  10. I have no idea why you've never seen a shaft like his before. Very common. Spline wear is the same either way.
  11. What I say is his is correct. Yours is correct as well. They are just different. Doesn't matter, and neither is wrong or more advantageous than the other. Don't worry about it being different from yours. Both yours look to have a lot of splines and a short slip shaft. Likely a different driveline manufacturer.
  12. At 375 PSI, I think the pump is just fine. No reason to pull the 5/8" plug and spray oil on the axle. Pulling the lower plug and relief accomplishes the same thing and you can catch the oil in a bucket. I guess I do it the cleaner way. Private messages not necessary for such a simple procedure. He seems to have figured it out just fine. Besides, OP already did it anyway and it worked as described. Testing pressures before T/A replacement is pretty important, but in this thread not relative as the new T/A is already installed.
  13. If you are the generation before a member of the baby boom, you are old. At least 75. I think you mean you are before the millenial generation, and after the baby boom, which is gen x. That's my generation.
  14. J-Mech

    1660

    I guess I learned something new. I didn't remember that for sure.
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