Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by BrodyNC

  1. Ok so I’ve found this, is that all I need? What would I need to do about the magnets on the crank? Never worked on this kind of charging system so I’m pretty clueless right now. Can I replace it without pulling the motor?
  2. I know. That is probably where I’ll end up. This is just the easiest and my favorite forum to use
  3. Took a multi meter and stuck the meters positive and negative leads into the two wires leaving the stator and going to the voltage regulator. Exactly how the manual said to. At idle it read 14 volts, mid throttle 29 volts, full throttle 41. Got the last regulator from dB electric. Doesn’t specifically say what brand it is. I’m confident the regulator is grounded properly. I have no idea if the stator has ever been replaced or worked on. I think if the motor was running way to fast I would have blown it up by now as much as I have mowed with it.
  4. This is a 1971 John Deere 140 H3 that I have cut grass with for the past three years. Over that time I have burned up three voltage regulators and one ignition switch. It has a Kohler K321 AS motor. The stator produces 41 ac volts at full rpm no load. The manual says it should produce 29-32 ac volts at full rpm no load. So the voltage regulator repeatedly gets fired from to many volts and amps flowing through it. What would make the stator produce more than normal volts? It would make sense to me if over time it produced less volts, but no, it produces to many volts. I do believe the rest of the charging system is right, other than a currently fired voltage regulator. So if we can get the stator producing correct voltage it should be golden. Also want to rewire the lawnmower just for good measure with a wiring harness I can buy online. I know it is dangerous to put something green on this forum but I would appreciate any help
  5. Now you need a nice red tractor with a three point to pull that nice red rake around! That looked like a fun project. Great job!
  6. Thank you. Heres a WD picture for you.
  7. Happy birthday America
  8. 13,894 lbs Thats my shot in the dark guess
  9. Thank you very much. We try our best on everything
  10. Got to test the plow out in a construction site near our house. The plow worked well, but the furrow wheel blade is so worn down it wouldn’t stay down in the furrow some times. Ordered an 18in plow coulter to replace the 15in original tail wheel blade. Cut all the holes in the new coulter with oxyfuel. Here’s a few finished pictures. Going to try and make room for the plow under a shed to keep it out of the rain.
  11. Alright thanks for the help everyone. I wired in an electric hour meter when we rebuilt the motor last May. I was just wondering if their was a tach option similar to that. (cheap and functional, but not original). But I'm convinced now just to fix it the way it should be.
  12. Well y’all have convinced me to fix it the way it should be. Found the cable and other pieces on yesterday’s tractor. https://www.ebay.com/p/10024429033 Found this tach on eBay. That sounds to good to be true, $30 for a new tach? What am I missing here?
  13. Through every phase of restoring the 240 we always said we’ve spent to much money already, tach isn’t important right now. Cables do seem to be cheap but the tach always seems to be relatively expensive. I might consider buying a tach now that everything else on the 240 is done (except new rear tires). I was just curious if there are other ways to have a tach
  14. So my 240 has a broken tachometer and no tach drive cable at all. My dad’s WD came from the factory with no tach, like most tractors in the 40’s. So, is their anything aftermarket out their to read and display rpms on an old tractor motor? I know I could buy a new tach and drive cable for my 240, but what about the wd which never had a tach? I don’t care about mph and engine hours like my original 240 could display, I just want to know engine rpms. I recall reading about temporary set ups you can put on the motor to see rpms while tuning, but is there anything small that could read the rpms of the crank pulley and have a display at the dash permanently? Thanks, Brody
  15. Glad you got it fixed. When are you going to paint the H red?
  16. Rattle can. Rustolem cans are widely available in stores near me. There aren’t any ace hardwares near me. I painted the 240 with rustolem professional international red, rustolem canvas white and some gloss black, all rattle cans. Thanks for the dimensions, I plan to buy a plow coulter and drill the holes to fit the tail wheel. Unless you know of a place to buy the right tail wheel blade.
  17. Rustolem professional cobalt blue. Is there any way you can tell me the diameter of your tail wheel disc? Mine is very worn down and I’m wanting to replace it
  18. If you insist. Just playing in a little dirt at a construction site near our house.
  19. The plow is all painted up. Had every piece sandblasted by someone else, nice change from wire wheeling every piece with a grinder. Used rustolem professional rattle cans to paint the plow. Have a spot near us where we hope to drop it in the ground and see how it works. Before tearing it apart, the tail wheel was frozen solid, so it wouldn’t plow right. I hope it works better now, don’t know what could be wrong with it, but you never know.
  20. It has a zenith carburetor. Rebuilding the carb was one of the first things we did, so it’s been awhile since I worked on the carb. I’ve been told hydraulics and the lift system on all the 240s never worked well from the factory. They sure don’t work well after 50 years of use. We fought the hydraulics for a long time. Ended up modifying it a lot and it works perfect for us. The fast hitch itself was a good design, but the original hydraulic controls on the 240 where not great. There should be a handle to the right of the seat that works the rear lift up and down. Before we modified the hydraulics, the lift was either all the way up or all the way down. The blocks under the gas tank are what controls the hydraulic fluid movement. There should be a pressure control block and the rear lift block. You may also have auxiliary blocks controlled by the levers by the steering wheel. They where originally for front mounted implements like a front end loader or cultivators. We took one of those blocks and plumbed it into the rear lift. If you look back over this whole thread it may help you with different questions and problems you have.
  21. Looks like you have a C14 harrow plow. My dad and I found a C200 fast hitch disc plow to use with a 240. Similar to yours but with only two big discs. The C14 is a small point fast hitch implement, would work well with c, super c, 200, 230.
  22. Saw this on Facebook and thought I would share. Pretty cool looking tractor.
  23. We narrowed up the 240’s rear wheel track width to work with the plow. I like the looks of it narrowed up so we are going to leave it like it is now even when not plowing Got the plow fully disassembled. Lot of pb blaster and oxy acytelene was required. Cleaned up the disk bearings. Ready to have the parts sand blasted by someone else.
  • Create New...