Jump to content

BrodyNC

Members
  • Posts

    239
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by BrodyNC

  1. Finished Installing the gauges last weekend and had an opportunity to test out the new plow yesterday.
  2. Best I can tell on my new gauge 180 degrees is the L in cold and 200 is right in between cold and run. Didn’t get the water any hotter on the stove because I didn’t have a good way to keep the bulb in the water and I couldn’t keep the water at a very stable temperature for long.
  3. Ordered new gauges from precision tractor to replace the ugly universal gauges currently in the 240. It already has a original fuel gauge so I only had to buy temp oil and amp gauges. Also went on a road trip to buy a fast hitch 3pt adapter and two bottom plow. Really only needed the 3pt adapter but the plow was way to cheap of a deal not to buy it.
  4. Thank you for pictures! May build a set of these instead of welding on every small point implement we come across.
  5. Had to drop a bottom off of this snap coupler plow to even begin to be able to plow this field.
  6. Also, should the second colter be turned around or slid back on the frame where it is closer to the back moldboard, or is it correct where it is now?
  7. Do you have a picture of the filler plates? We’ve toyed with the idea of putting filler plates in the fast hitch sockets but didn’t know that was something IH actually made. Do the filler plates have a lip to catch the end of the socket?
  8. Yep, the 240 is large point and the plow is small point. I will tack some metal to the points on the plow to make it large point, but easy to remove if I sell the plow. Here’s a picture of what I did to a c200 disc plow I had the same issue with. Thanks for the verification that is a C20 plow. It almost looks like to much plow for this size tractor, but then again all I have plowed is North Carolina red clay.
  9. Can anyone tell me the model of this plow? I think it is a C20 but I’m not sure.
  10. Thanks everyone, an infrared thermometer is a good idea. I’ll also check the new gauge in a pan on the stove to see what it does. I think I’ll order this gauge from precision tractor instead of the Steiner one. I want this kind of gauge for the original look of it. I’ve ran numerical gauges before on three different tractors, I was just wondering how the numbers would line up with this gauge.
  11. What is the temperature range for the green “run” area of this temp gauge? Is it 170-200 ish? Also what temperature does the cold start and hot end? I’ve heard normal operating temp is when the needle is on the “n”, what is that temperature? Thanks, Brody https://www.steinertractor.com/IHS531-Water-Temperature-Gauge Also, is this Steiner gauge reliable to use or is their another place I should get this gauge from.
  12. So now the 240 has nice new bkt tires all the way around. I can’t really think of anything else left to do to the 240, other than drive the wheels off it!
  13. 1st picture is with 5.50-16 implement tires 2nd picture is with the new bkt 6.00-16 tri ribs
  14. Here’s a few up to date pictures of the 240. 1st picture is the 240 in line at the tractor show myself and my two friends put together. 2nd picture is myself on the farmall at the end of a slow race we did at the tractor show. I lost to a John Deere 40, but I was slower than 6 other tractors. The 3rd and 4th pictures are form our towns 4th of July parade. The last pictures are the 6ft finish mower behind the farmall I use when I get some free time to mow a neighbors 1.5 acre field. And the fast hitch plow I used a little in our garden. The 240 is getting new, bigger front tires soon so I’ll post before and after pictures when it is finished.
  15. Welded a drawbar to the carryall so I can move the trailer around short distances. This morning I bought two more suitcase weights for the front of the 240. Will paint them red when the weather gets better here. The 240 really don’t need more weight on the front end, but it looks so cool. I’m not going to put more than 4 suitcase weights on it though.
  16. Had the rims powder coated silver and then mounted the tires ourselves. A week later and the tubes are still holding air so we must have done something right. The 240 has 5.50-16 kelly Springfield multi rib implement tires up front and it now has 12.4-36 BKT rear tires. The tractor has a slight rake forwards. I’m not sure if 6.00-16 front tires would make it sit raked back to much or if it would sit just slightly raked back like I want it. But the 5.50-16 implement tires on it now aren’t going anywhere anytime soon.
  17. Ordered a pair of 12.4-36 BKT tires and tubes from a local tire shop. The rims are at the sandblaster right now. The plan is to have the rims powder coated silver. Was originally going to have them galvanized but the shop said they where afraid the rims would warp so they don’t want to do it.
  18. Decided it is time to change the rear tires and fix the rims. The old tires were hard, dry rotted, and they didn’t match each other. Both rims have some rust damage.
  19. And today we drilled 28 holes and bolted the wood onto the frame. Eventually I’ll take the wood back off, have the frame sandblasted and then paint the frame red. Used deck boards and cut them 4ft long. I think it turned out great and fairly close to an original carryall. I’m not to worried about cutting up the post hole digger. It was beyond saving, and now we built something awesome and usable out of scrap metal. Will try to sell the pto shaft and auger so they won’t go to scrap.
  20. My dad and I decided to build a fast hitch carryall from the post hole digger frame. Started by adding metal to the fast hitch prongs. Then cut the frame to length. Had plenty of metal left in the U we cut off, so the uprights on the carry all frame are cut off of the post hole digger frame on the ground in picture 2. Picture 3, welded a cross member to keep the fast hitch prongs at the right spacing. Picture 4, welding the uprights and a cross member for them. And then the completed frame.
  21. Well the post hole digger gear box is a hot mess. Main shaft was welded up and ground with out a lathe, so that is very bad. Both gears are very worn and in rough shape. It was missing half the bearings when I got it. When I put replacement bearings in it made all the tolerances to tight and the gears wouldn't turn. Only way it would turn is when we spaced the top cover out with washers, which ain’t right since this is supposed to have gear oil in it. Basically the gear box is sketchy and beyond saving. I am unwilling to hook my tractor to it and turn to pto on, for fear of the gearbox locking up and possibly breaking the tractor. So I had some fun with the frame for a little while then came up with a plan...
  22. High compression pistons? Didn’t know we put something fancy in. Pistons, rods, and sleeves all came in a kit. Thanks for the advice on the transmission. There is a zero percent chance I will hook my 240 to a pulling sled, but I will use it for plowing as much as I can.
  23. Many of the bolts in the gear box cover are broken off in the hole, so the previous owners at some point made this butchered clamp for the whole gear box. Got it all disassembled pretty easily. Already got all the broken bolts out of the cover. Will need to buy some bearings. pto shaft is rusted solid right now. Working on breaking it loose with pb blaster and heat.
  24. This sticker is in the inside of the frame. So this digger is not IH made, and was made by kims fast o matic implements? What else did kims make? What color did they paint something like this? Just looking for any and all information about the company and my post hole digger.
×
×
  • Create New...