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About carmine@1945

  • Birthday May 3

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    CIH3220U-MFWD, 504U, 444, 2500B, 400, 460U, 606, 300U , C, M, IH100 spreader, MF265DU, VA, JD318, 8N, 50-60's Mopar's,

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  1. About 45 years ago, I bought a International 504U gas. It was a one owner and about like new. It sat and was used to run a dryer. It's been a great little tractor and still looks really nice, but It is now time for a overhaul, weak clutch needs, front end work and it smokes. Still peppy, but time to fix it up. So...do I rebuild it stock, if the block is still good, or do I make it a little special and put a 6 cylinder from a 606U. It appears it will bolt directly to the 504 bell housing. I have a complete parts tractor including nice sheet metal and longer hood, ect. Not concerned about the work or even the expense. Maybe a little diesel would be better horsepower choice. I'm going to spend the money either way. Maybe I should buy a few parts, put the 606U back together. Not too many of those around anymore. So........ The question is.......am I making it better or am I ruining the value of a really nice, complete 504U or do I fix both up stock?? Thanks.
  2. I must have missed the logic here........We bought a running Dodge PU with the 5.9 first gen Cummins for 3,000.00. With it we got Turbo charger, aftercooler, radiator, ect. Unless these have become rare, I think I would pass on the excavator.
  3. Since they took away our column for this type of stuff... I'll just mention...... If you never seen a couple thousand running and driving antique tractors in one place, you owe it to yourself to go to Northern Michigan Saturday September 10, 11, 12. You can look it up on line.
  4. Not to over simplify your project .......heat it up and bend it.....or cut if off and thread the end for a long nut coupling, and add whatever you want.
  5. Cows ate the spark plug wires.....that's funny! My cows took the key out of the ignition switch, never did find it. I think I would look in the distributor. Check the points, they may be shot.
  6. If I could make a suggestion........ When your at TDC (top dead center) at the crank......... remove the cap and see if your rotor is pointing to number one terminal on the distributor cap. If it's not but close, loosen the clamp on the base of the distributor and rotate to get the rotor inline with the no.1 spark plug hole on the cap. At this point it should start.
  7. I've driven a lot of miles in both a DT360 and a Dt466 with 6 speed manual transmissions. The DT360 might have been a 5 speed. Anyway, the 466 is a smoother, more torque than the 360. The DT360 was a pig. Both are very heavy motors. These were all the older non electronic motors. The Cummins 5.9 first generation, had two of them. One we swapped into a 1975 Dodge one ton dually. Both motors were smooth, but were a little noisy at idle. Hard to compare a 32,000 GVW straight truck to a 6,000 pound pickup. I vote for the DT466 if weight, transmission options is not a factor....... otherwise, the Cummins with transmission options, upgrades, puts it miles ahead of any other motor.
  8. OK, So which drawing are you following? I personally have used your drawing with a external resistor (Mopar) and the standard coil, one wire GM alt. with no issues for over ten years. On your Cub, you will have to get rid of the little pull switch and add a starter solenoid . Then add a simple key type ignition switch (screw terminals) that has the positions: Off, run, start. Also replace the amp gauge with a volt gauge wired into the run terminal on the ignition switch.
  9. The International 300 Hydraulic reservoir is located under the seat and separated from the transmission oil.
  10. Well......I personally hate that loader. You can't work on the motor for starters. Everything is blocked off by the support arms brackets. It's really a heavy loader so hopefully you have power steering and 16 inch front tires. I would look for a nice medium weight with a 6 foot bucket mid mount.
  11. I'm guessing but it sounds like somebody already started to convert your tractor to 12 volt negative ground. Does it have a 12 volt battery or a 6 volt battery? The Delco alternator is most likely a 12 volt one wire alt. The wire goes from the big terminal on the alt directly to the positive term on the battery. You should install a volt meter in place of the amp gauge.
  12. Just a thought...Have you considered converting to 12 volt?
  13. Wheatking..... your very first post says what is wrong. You said when" I hook up the start cable, I get a quick spark". You have a short going to ground. The spark that you should have when you hook up any kind of battery is tiny if any at all. A quick battery check is simply hook a VOM across the battery and watch for a few minutes. If things are shorted and draining the battery the battery voltage will drop from the average 6.8 to 6.0, 5.5, ect. With the battery unhooked, disconnect the wires going to the generator, then make sure your start pull switch is pushed in. Hook up the battery...do you have the spark like before, or is it gone. Until you find and temporary disconnect the item that causes the short, that tractor will never run. Meanwhile the 6 volt battery is being drained. Not much reserve in a little 6 volt battery. It also could be short or grounded starter. If you have the crank that goes in the hole just below the radiator, pull out the start switch and try to crank it. Our C would start with the crank faster than with the starter.
  14. A 2250 loader is a good loader. I mounted mine on a 3220. When I tried to find information on what loader fits what tractor, believe it or not, I got some good info from the parts department of IH. If you have one around that hopefully you been to a couple of times, they may be able to look up your 844 and tell you what loaders were recommended or installed.
  15. Check with Stiener tractor parts in Northern Michigan. New hub and shaft are less than a $100.00 bucks!
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