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Gearhulk

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Port Stanley, Ontario Canada
  • Interests
    22-36
    Super C
    Farmall 140
    Cub
    Super W6
    IH 56 planter

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  1. For my grandparents and Aunts and Uncles I gave them each a little under a lb (full pint jar) of popcorn I grew this summer using all IH equipment. As for me I got a TSC gift card, heated Milwaukee camo coat and a tin farmall sign.
  2. I have to agree with Dan that the "bulge" is an optical illusion caused by a combination of the shadow caused by the railway crossing signal and the fact that the picture is in black and white. If you look at the bottom of the hood where it appears to be bulged out there is an even darker spot that looks to be caused by the railway signal light and the straight line going up is most likely the arm from the railway signal. Also beside the lights on the tractor you can see some other darker spots that also don't make the hood look bulged out wider. Just my 2 cents. Not that 2 cents can buy you very much any more.
  3. Try taking the dash covering off which should be 11 screws and spray some WD40 or some other lubricants on the pivot points under the dash while moving the lever back and forth. My lever was hard pulling but once I sprayed some WD40 in there it loosened right up. As for my progress I was able to get the broken bolt drilled out and the hole re-tapped. Once that was done about 10 min later the TA cable was back installed and adjusted to roughly where the old cable was and the TA works perfectly. My question now is how do I make sure the cable is in proper adjustment? I know its close to where it needs to be because the TA was engaging but I want to make sure that it is adjusted to where it should be to avoid wear on the TA from improper adjustment.
  4. Well the broken bolt repair was going well until my grandfather opened the door to check on my progress and startled me and I broke the drill bit (stupid mistake). I don't have hard enough drill bits to just drill through the broken bit so I turned to heat cycling the drill bit to make it brittle so I can break it out. That was going well until I ran out of oxygen for the big torch and acetylene for the small torch and I don't have fittings to go between the sizes. So that necessitated running all over town this afternoon trying to track down some gas as the local suppliers are hard to deal with and have been having supply shortages for years now. On the plus side all the parts are here and once the drill bit is out and the hole is tapped everything can go back together.
  5. Ya the lever was pretty sticky at the beginning but I've been spraying it with WD40 and working it back and forth often and it is operating smoothly now. And I got a bit impatient and had another bolt that was stuck that needed thermal persuasion so while I had the torch out I heated the pivot link and it loosened right up. Unfortunately the bolt didn't loosen and I cut it off so the project for tomorrow is drilling the bolt out and re-taping the hole.
  6. It was I ended up having to completely disassemble the bottom linkage and pull the cable out through the battery box area because the cable didn't want to come out of the linkage by itself. Now I'm just waiting on parts. Cable should be here Thursday and the top L piece of the turnbuckle is whenever it gets here because of the holidays.
  7. I graduated high school about 6 years ago now and we weren't supposed to carry them in school. Now that didn't mean that we didn't have them on us. Especially us kids that took any sort of shop class or grew up on a farm. Only ever heard of one kid getting in trouble but he was being an idiot and pulled it out in the hallway. Mind you while the school was in the city it was a rural school in the sense that it had a very large proportion of country kids and most of the teachers understood we carried them out of habit from work.
  8. Well you know what they say every job is one broken/stripped bolt away from a 4 hour job. Well I had that happen today. Someone used a flathead screw in place of the allen head bolts on the clamps holding the cable and that made the job of getting the cable out alot more "fun". It turned out that both the cable and that L shaped linkage at the top were frozen so that linkage at the top did need some heat to persuade it to come out. I have the parts on order but the L bracket on the top of the turn buckle is coming out of the US so might not be here till the new year. I have a few other small things that I can work on between this and a few other tractors plus I have a lead on a Farmall 200 that I may be purchasing this winter break.
  9. Well I figured out yesterday why the TA isn't engaging. The top of the turn buckle is snapped off. Rust on the shear point has led me to believe that this happened a while ago possibly around when it was parked about 10 years ago or when they were getting it ready for the sale this summer. It looks like it is going to take some heat to get that top piece of the turn buckle out of the bracket. Are there any bushings in there that I need to be careful of when applying heat?
  10. This is such a cool project. The valve covers coming out the side really give the tractor a rat rodish feel. I cant wait to see this project when it is done.
  11. We were able to get the TA lever moving but the TA still won't engage. When I finish up finals and go home for Christmas break I will check to see if the cable is rusted off or not working properly. Thank you all for you insight hopefully these suggestions help me fix the issue. If not I will be back with more information next weekend.
  12. I just recently purchased a 986 off of my neighbor at an auction that had been sitting for a few years but the TA was working fine before it was parked. I trust this neighbor and know that he takes very good care of his equipment so I believe that the TA is fine. When I bought it the lever for the TA was stuck because the linkage was stuck and that was the reason that I couldn't check to see if the TA was working right. I am suspecting that it is a hydraulic issue but I wouldn't know the first place to start looking to diagnose and fix the problem. Any advice that you could provide would be a great help as I would like to have the issue resolved before we hook the tractor up to a cultivator for spring tillage.
  13. Oh ok. I did know of a Super W6 that had a working belly pump so that's why I thought that it was an option from factory. Also I did some more looking online and I only have the reservoir and not the actual belly pump. I think that I m going to stick with using the belly reservoir to give the tractor a cleaner look than it would have if I had the tank mounted under the gas tank. The only issue that I might run into is clearance with the hydraulic lines and the belt pully but I will cross that bridge when I get to it.
  14. Thanks for the photos I'm hoping to get to installing the hydraulics on the tractor in the next couple of weeks but corn harvest and living an hour and a half away from the farm for University might get in the way of that. But it will get done sometime this winter because I want to use it for tillage next spring.
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