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David in Alabama

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About David in Alabama

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 12/13/1967

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Central Alabama
  • Interests
    God, my wife and family, old tractors, steam locomotives, pistols and rifles and many other things

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  1. Mmi, both the pump and nozzles are freshly rebuilt. I haven't started the engine yet. I discovered this little valve putting everything back together after some cosmetic and mechanical work.
  2. I'm in the process of putting the 560 Farmall back together. In the brass elbow on the return fuel line from the pump, I found a small check valve...just a bb in the small fitting. Shouldn't it check against fuel in the tank? This one seems to check against flow from the pump. Any ideas on finding a replacement? I found one NOS and almost passed out when I was told the price!
  3. Does anybody have a source for the rubber boots that make up the air intake hoses? Mine were too far gone to re-use. Thanks, David
  4. So, one shim between the cup and the head and the other between the nozzle and the cup? As far as torque goes, 85 ft.lbs is what the BRSM and my other manual are calling for.
  5. Good morning and Happy Independence Day! I'm ready to reinstall the nozzles on my 560. I had the pump and nozzles rebuilt. I got a couple of shims per nozzle. When I took them out, I had 4 with double shims and 2 with only one. I can't find anything in the BRSM or anywhere else about how I should proceed. Can anybody lend some advice? This much I know: Make SURE the cup goes up as marked, torque to 85 lbs and torque the line to 45 lbs. Thanks everybody!
  6. It's on the right. It's a 460, we discovered. I finally talked the gentleman into taking a picture of the left hand side of the tractor....there was a badge on that side.😆 Sometimes it's hard to handle things over the phone!
  7. Thanks, fellas! Thanks to ya'll, lve just about decided it's a 560. I have a couple of pictures but the files are too large to load here. I can figure out how to reduce them to post on my phone.
  8. Hello, I'm looking at a Farmall and I need help deciding if it's a 460 or 560. The badges on the hood skirts are long gone. The tag number is 27990SY with a D letter above the SY. I know the SY means it has a T/A and the engine is a diesel. Can anybody help me out? All I have seen are pictures so far.
  9. I'm thinking of biting the bullet and ordering Jensales deluxe package of the Farmall 560 manuals. It's a hundred and eighty bucks. Has anybody purchased these?
  10. I'm happy to report that the 560 now has working brakes. Gmb32 , I've heard of some fellas milling off some if the drum to tighten things up. I found a old post in a thread here on RPM. I can't remember the magic number but, if memory serves, the guy in question placed the discs and actuator in the drum and laid a straight edge across it and measured the difference between the edge of the drum and top of the disc. I stacked mine up and the top disc was dead even all the way across on both sides. Thanks again for the assistance!
  11. Thanks fellas. I plan on replacing the actuators soon as these are marginal. I cleaned the ramps really good and replaced all the springs and balls. The left side actuator fit a bit tighter than this side did. I'd have taken a picture of it too but I'd already assembled it. When I say it fit better I mean that the actuator fit around the positioning 'cleat' in the drum in front and in back of it. And, I might add, it works just fine. I was concerned that a thrust issue with the assembly might have contributed to the failure of the pinion bearing. I'll get the positioning springs asap!
  12. Hello! I'm going back up with the brakes on the 560 after a bearing change and I noticed this actuator doesn't look just right in the drum. Look at the cleat in the drum...does it look like it should be tighter? The left side was. If this is wrong, that explains why the bearing went bad on this side.
  13. It took some gentle heat and gentle pull to get it off with tapping with a rawhide hammer. When it had slack, I tightened up on the puller. Just for safety sake, I'll put this one with new breaking and seal in before doing the left side.
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