Billy4130

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  1. Yes - Dad has went down there on about 3 or 4 trips now and we've tag teamed the starting and fiddling with teh carb/ watching plugs fire, spraying ether, etc. Just the distance and travel is a little harder on him now with his age than it use to be. It was trifling hot when we first went down there, it's cooled down a little now. Definitely did get some gas on your hand when physically choking air cleaner side of the carb. This is when it would pop off and act like it was trying to fire, but would never stay running. Did this probably on 6-7 different occasions. I've told dad I wondered about weak ignition just because ether has such a lower flash point - maybe not good enough to light gas. Don't think I have anything else with a 2 wire coil I know is good but will do that and plug wires and double check the points again. We ran some 320grit sand paper through them and had them pretty clean, didn't look like it was rough or burnt up on the contact.
  2. That's probably what mine is - this was several weeks ago now when I had done that and was going from memory on the actual firing order, but it was staring me in the face at the time I have a test light to check power from ignition running to coil, and have checked the plugs individually firing, but have not utilized an actual inline tester. There were several notches in the crankshaft pulley, a couple of which were fairly close to lining up with what I felt was TDC using the screwdriver, but between the un-exactness there and not knowing for sure that I was looking at a timing mark on the pulley, hard to know what was what with 100% certainty. The thing is literally in the back yard of a house in a neighborhood with a little tiny driveway to snake around through. I've already got my pickup truck stuck once on a trip down there ($160 towing bill...), so it's just difficult to do much. In hindsight, maybe not such a great purchase...lol Mostly have had the aircleaner tube off, and back of the carb exposed, so that can make sure the choke flap is operating, choke it manually by hand covering it, spraying starting fluid, etc. It does have the oil bath air cleaner assembly. I've tried it a little with it all plumbed back in also, but not as much. Carb was rebuilt recently, float height is inline with what I've saw recommend here. I got a barb fitting and put in the drain **** plug and then ran a piece of clear hose up to the top edge of the bowl and looked at the height that way. Carb has a new gasket, new needle valve, new seat. I have adjusted the screws quite a bit with no change in its behavior, including adjusting while trying to crank it over. I started at the owner's manual recommended # of turns out for each one and then turned in and back out some more from there. Intake has a new gasket where the carb bolts on. Have not had the intake off the engine. It has a helluva vacuum on the carb when you put your hand across the back of it, so don't think I'm losing any suction, but possibility. Have not looked at the exhaust manifold any.
  3. I did message the other guy from that link that had the 303 also. No reply yet. I had the distributor out when I replaced the condenser, because the screw was stripped and I had to get the thing pulled out and stood up vertically where I could get a screw driver on it good. I had marked it with some chisel points before I pulled it, and should be okay, but not ruling out the possibility of being a tooth or two off also, but never back fires when running on starting fluid either. Is there a plug in the intake, to put on a vacuum gauge? I had not noticed or saw anything like that, but had been wondering/thinking along similar lines.
  4. Yes - now it was a little unscientific since I didn't have a way to run a dial indicator down into the cylinder, but using the old screw driver trick while turning the fan by hand, I got pretty friggen close to TDC, and the rotor was lined right up with the cap on the firing cylinder's contact based on firing order of the block casting (4-2-3-1 from memory?). So it may be off some, but it can't be too much. I brought a timing light the one trip to try and find a notch or mark on the crankshaft pulley, but couldn't find anything, and too bright during the day to do much good with that anyhow. It runs so good on starting fluid, I mean like literally will run, I don't think its an ignition deal, but who knows.
  5. Yep. Tried with choke open, and closed. Also tried manually choking it with your hand with the air cleaner tube off. That does make it *try* to fire up, but never actually stays running. I tend to agree that it is probably a carb problem, but the thing does not have a lot of parts, so it is frustrating to figure out why that seems to be the case. The original plugs I pulled out were fairly dark and black, indicating a rich fuel mixture. After running it on starting fluid so much, its just dry and gray'ish colored.
  6. Hey there - I thought this may get more traction in kind of the main area. I have a U-6 engine I have been fighting to get running for over 2 months now, I have a thread in the power unit area; Long story short - I'm located in Live Oak, FL. The machine is located near Starke, FL. Is there anyone out there that I could by chance borrow/rent a KNOWN good carb for this machine so I can use that to try and get it running or diagnose a different direction at least?
  7. If anyone happens to have a known good carburetor I can borrow - be happy to pay a "rental" fee for it or if they want to sell it please let me know or message me, I don't know what else to try at this point. The biggest problem is the machine is about 2 hours from my shop, and I really need to get the thing running, in order to get the blade moved enough and drive it out from where its parked at, to get it loaded up. The folks where its sitting at have been kind enough to give me extra time to get it running but its going on better than 2 months now... As far as electrical, the only things that have not been changed at this point is the plug wires themselves. Literally everything else has been replaced. Plugs, Cap, Rotor, Points, Coil. Guess I'll put a set of those on there just to remove that as a variable. I'm still thinking its a carburation problem. Maybe mine just plain has something wrong with it. A neighbor where the thing is sitting at alleges that the previous owner always had a hard time starting it too, so who knows? Maybe it has parts in it from one of the old kero carburetors in it, or something.
  8. This H-style carburetor looks to be very similar but is a little different - is there any reason I couldn't buy one of these and use them?
  9. Well, this saga continues. The carburetor was soaked in a solution at a friends automotive shop in town over night. The rebuilt kit was put in it which did not consist of much but was new gaskets, new needle, new seat, orings and crush washers under a few of the jets including the big main one that has the nut on the outside bottom of the bowl. Took it back down to the machine yesterday, 6th trip down there now, and same thing. Verified the governor linkage was connected and turning the butterfly by keeping the governor bolted on and unbolting from the intake manifold enough to look in and see it moving. While it was coming unbolted I was able to see some gas moisture soaking into the new gasket, so it was getting some gas at least up that far. Verified gas was in the bowl on site by removing the drain plug. Had checked float level with the hose barb/clear hose setup in the bowl at the house, before taking it down there. It was in the range of height I've read about here on the forum. Tried with throttle/governor linkage in all manner of positions open, closed, partially open, fanning it up and closed, choke butterfly open, closed. Once again, when a little starting fluid was applied, it tried to fire right up, and my dad was able to meter the starting fluid into the breather side of the carb and keep it running pretty long time now. No backfiring or anything. Pulled plugs. It's got fire. I have now replaced the plugs, the cap, the rotor, the condenser. We put on a known good coil from the one that was on it, and it's firing but I wouldn't call it the brightest bluest spark I am use to seeing, but its got fire. Really at a loss on this thing. Does anyone have a known good carburetor I can borrow, or rent, or whatever to put on this thing and try to figure out what is going on? I'm fairly mechanically inclined and my father is in his 80s and has worked on and owned every manner of construction equipment and most tractors there are, but neither one of us are very familiar with international stuff or gas burners of this era. We've tried about everything we know to do other than swapping out a completely different carburetor that is known to run and work good.
  10. Yes sir - that's clear. It had an inline filter which I've blown through and gotten freed up also. Gas definitely getting into the carb and into the bowl.
  11. Thanks for the reply. I thought the other characters in the brass tag were separators, not 1s. I stopped by my local Napa and they matched up a carb kit that looks like it'll work, most likely from an M. Once it arrives here I'll replace my stuff with whats in the kit, double check the float level, and go from there. That's an interesting thought on the starter. I have not replaced it, but unknown what previous owners did. We've had it running (pretty good, enough to use some of the hydraulics even) on starting fluid, but it just will not start on gas or stay running on gas on its own no matter what I seem to do, which kind of originally made me wonder about the fuel pump setup or lack thereof possibly being the problem.
  12. 27-53-R9 is the only # I have. It's what is on the brass tag pictured above, but it does not turn anything up on the site here except for this post, and it does not show up on any of the M type or style carb kits I have found online, yet. I just really wanted to be able to have a kit and put in it before I make another trip down there to where the machine is (I have the carb home with me) was my thought. Governor shaft does engage, turns, and opens/closes butterfly when bolted on. Has close to 100psi in each cylinder from a push on compression tester, so probably higher in reality. Timing seems to be good, no back firing when running on starting fluid. Took a timing light with me last trip but too bright outside during middle of the day to be able to tell much. Found some grooves in crankshaft belt pulley that feels like it coincides with TDC. Rotor was pointing at #1 on the cap in this same position (or darn close to it as close as I could get TDC without a dial indicator using a piece of wire ran down in the cylinder to feel it moving).
  13. Thanks for that info. Venturi is in. I'm gonna go through it and clean it one more time and attempt to set the float height based on what I saw here. The carburetor kits - I'm getting conflicting information on Will one from a M work in this carb we think, or I need to find some other numbers and way to cross reference it to something to make sure?
  14. The only #s I have found on the carb so far are those on the little round brass tag pictured above, and the 54 / 51 on each half of the carb stamped into them. Am I missing another tag? The machine is about 2 hours from my house so the next time I am down there at it, I will look for engine casting #s. The 2 books i have do not list any float level information. I searched here and found this thread; https://www.redpowermagazine.com/forums/topic/87477-farmall-m-carb-float-hieght/ 5/8 from the top of the bowl, sound right?
  15. Okay, got ya. The factory tank is better than ft above, so that shouldn't be a problem. the auxillary tank i'm using to ensure gas stays clean is definitely high enough to gravity feed also. So if it doesn't need the fuel pump then that's great - marks one other thing off the list to worry/check on. Regarding the float level - is there a published fuel height level, for in the bowl, or just slam full to the top? If I wanted to buy a carb kit for this one and get new gaskets - any pointers on where to check? The #s on the brass tag have not matched up with any kits I've found on Steiner or elsewhere - are those #s on the brass tag what they're going by, or am I not seeing another number sequence on the thing somewhere?