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About dtompsett

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  1. Hmm, searching the two part numbers doesn't come up with anything useful either. I've got some sort of bent wire clip on the shaft, but no spring. I wonder if the "spring" was actually that wire clip. I'll have to dig into it when I've got a free weekend. The shutoff lever on the injector pump has a free hole to attach a spring to, but I didn't see an obvious spot to hook the other side of it.
  2. Ok B414 diesel experts... can anyone tell me how the fuel shutoff return spring should work? I found it in the diagrams, but it doesn't make any sense. Trying to get an understanding of what's supposed to be under the dash before I tear into it. Basically, when I pull to shut down, the lever doesn't return to open, and when the tractor is running the vibrations actually cause the shutoff control to vibrate out and starve the engine.
  3. Typically more is better. The idea is the coolant should move around based on thermal convection, so you aren't really getting a single point hot spot. And there is so much metal to soak up that heat, it won't develop a hotspot. The only downside to 1250w of heat, you need a good extension cord. Multiple heaters has the benefit of not having all your eggs in one basket. I've never been able to put a tractor on a timer, as my schedule is never fixed. There are times when I can plug it in and wait a 3 hours, and there are times when waiting 30 minutes sure would be nice. I grew up with a gas MF-35 (actually a slightly older TO-35), which only had a rad hose heater. It could be a pain at times, but as kids we'd often plug it in when we got home from school if there was a lot of snow, so the tractor would be warm when dad got home. I spent the last few years using a neighbour's Ford diesel 3910 with no pre-heat option, just a strong battery and gentle use of ether... after the first winter I installed a block heater for him... because I was the one using the tractor to clear the driveways. IIRC it was a 650W unit... even an hour plugged in made a huge difference in starting, even at -30C. I've got a diesel B414 now, my first winter with it. It has a rad hose heater, and glow plugs. The original glow plug system has been bastardized and broken when I got it. I got it all cleaned up a couple weeks ago with some 9V rated plugs. (The Bosch 11V rated plugs have been discontinued). This weekend after a night of -13C, while sitting at -7, I preheated the plugs for 8 seconds, and it fired up faster than any tractor I've ever had.
  4. Well I answered my own question... went back out to try again. Close the valve under the seat to isolate the 3pt and use the loader. This will hold the 3pt arms up with a load on them. Close the valve on the loader to isolate the loader and have control over the 3pt. What a great system. *eyeroll* Perhaps if the loader spool valves had a closed center? I don't know hydraulic systems well enough to know how it would react to a closed center. Never worked on one before.
  5. Ok, so this tractor is new to me. Finally got it delivered after is spent the summer getting some touch ups. Still lots of work to do, but atleast I've got the glow plugs working and an alternator to charge the battery. With nothing mounted on the 3pt hitch, I put the lift control to full "up", the arms go up, and then I have flow to the front end loader valves. Up, down, curl bucket. But today I finally mounted my snowblower on the back. If I put the lift control to full "up" the blower won't lift up, but I have loader controls. When I activate a loader control levers, the 3pt arms finally lift up, but immediately sink back down when i let off the loader levers. There is a needle valve plumbed inline to the loader. If I close it, I lose loader controls, but my 3pt works as expected, although quite fast and touchy. Does this all sound normal? I assume the loader controls are an open center, so fluid is flowing through the valve instead of the internal lift cylinder. Activate a loader spool, and the resistance of operating the loader is enough to allow the 3pt to lift.
  6. I ended up drilling and tapping the cap to pull it. It sure was snug, but the oring was hard. #8-32 screw, tapped about 3/8" deep. I didn't drill all the way through, but cut the screw down afterwards to plug the hole. If you pull it, have a large coffee cup handy to prop under the hole. In the time it took me to cut the screw down to put it back in permanently, and replace the oring, I'd filled the cup twice.
  7. On the other side.... isolator valve... might seems to have an extra seal not shown in the parts diagram. It was between the two shafts when I split them. Not an o-ring... has a tapered profile. Not sure why it's there.
  8. Arrggg... trying to pull the blind cap beside the speed selector. Circlip is out, but the cap won't come out. Tried pulling with a magnet. Nothing to grab onto.
  9. Nice! I wanted to pick up some of the Bosch 80035 glow plugs and convert the glow plug system to 12v parallel, but it seems Bosch (or their supplier) has stopped making them and supplies are dwindling. I guess it was the perfect plug, rated for 11v, so it'd handle battery voltage without much issue. All the alternatives seem to be 9v rated, which means they still need a resistor wired in. So, I've ordered 2 sets of 9v plugs... at $35/set, it was still cheaper than the $35/plug I was quoted for a Bosch. Ran some rough numbers to calculate resistors I'd need, and plan to wire it up to allow me to run a switchable bank of resistors... since as the current drops off, voltage will rise, and I'm not sure how well the 9v glow plugs will survive being fed 11+ volts. I'll have to show the whole system wired up once I've installed and tested... but on paper it works. HAHAHA I'm also planning to rewire a bunch of the tractor, as I bought it with no lights. Generator seems to work, but I've got an alternator on order. Might not have time to get it mounted up before the winter though... focus is on glow plugs and some sort of lighting... since I need this thing for snow clearing! We should start a separate thread on B414 electrical systems! I'd love to see how you wired it... what you kept and what you added. At least with the diesel there isn't much wiring to start with.
  10. Well I'll be playing around with mine in two weeks... gotta finish up some wiring and replace some o-rings in the hydraulic control... then ship it 6 hours north to my place. I ordered a couple category 1 stabilizer pins (amazon.ca... or TSC or Princess Auto)... and I'm hoping to just fab up a bracket to mount them on each side.
  11. Haha... perfect timing! Mine is in the shop a couple hours away... I'll be working on it in a couple weeks; wasn't sure what I'd be getting into. I replaced the o-rings on the slow/fast selector valve the last time I worked on the tractor. Easy enough; I had to replace a split-pin and grind the new one to length to get it all back in. Good sign, your tapered valve looks nice and shiny, so I'd assume the seat is in good shape too. I'll need to pull out the clip and plug on the other side for the speed control piston, and replace the o-ring. Mine's leaking from there too. You should take that side apart and document it too. Have you ever pulled the orifice filter out to check it's condition?
  12. I come up with two items in the parts diagrams that look like they're related to what we're trying to accomplish here. Under drawbars and hitches... drawing 142 - Adjustable Check Link drawing 145 - Parts Accessory - Adjustable Horizontal Stabilizer 145.. I have no idea where it (#5) would bolt to. 142.. looks like #6 bolts under the axle (fender bolts) and bends down to match pin CL. Or it bolts to the face of the axle (unused pair of tapped holes) and bends out to match pin CL. Not shown on the diagrams are the nuts and bolts that fasten the two halves of the adjustable sway links together. But basically the two halves would be loosely bolted together (slotted holes), line up your implement, and then tighten the bolts down. Then pin #3 pins to the unused hole in the 3pt arm (about 5" behind the ball socket) Bolting under the axle might make sense... the parts list includes 5/8"x7-3/4"long bolts. Much too long to bolt INTO the axle. I'm about 5 hours away from my tractor right now... but I feel another item being added to the list of things to do.
  13. Ok B414 experts; My B414 has adjustable chains on the 3pt lift arms, but I want to add a proper swaybar when I'm using a 3pt snowblower. Problem is, the holes on the brackets under the axle don't line up with the 3pt arm pivots. When we used to set up the blower on my father's Massey 35, there was a pin on the axle in-line with the 3pt arm pins... adjustable length rod with 2 eyes, one on the pin under the axle and one on the pin at the snowblower. Travelled up/down in the same path as the 3pt arms, so it wouldn't bind, but would prevent the blower from swaying side to side. The brackets on the B414 have two holes that the chains can attach to. The adjustable chains can't be made tight enough to prevent sway, and neither of the holes line up with the 3pt pivots. Of course I'm not in front of my tractor to snap a photo... so I'll skim google images... What I want... What I have.... Am I missing something? What's the best way to set up an anti-sway bar on a B414?
  14. Hey... Couple of questions since I'm about to tackle a brake rebuild on my new B414... hoping you can help a fellow Canadian out with parts sources. Where did you get your parts from? I've read some replacement brake discs are too hard and don't grab. Did you go with the A&I parts discs, or something else? How do you like them? I'm finding A&I for about $24/ea, and another brand for $19... A&I - A-1975464C2 Other - 1702-1000 What about the rubber boots?
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