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Everything posted by Pbach

  1. Check out these two links, I did my brakes the same way. http://www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/viewtopic.php?t=5177&start=15 https://www.redpowermagazine.com/forums/topic/69684-td6-brake-band-change-im-stuck/ The brake lining, rivets, and tools I bought from mcmaster. Will need 3/8" End Mill for counter sunk holes, 3/16" tool for hollow rivets, 3/8" drift punch. I used 3M 90 adhesive spray and then riveted the bands and clamped over night. Let me know if you need anything else. Peter
  2. Here is another pic of when the dozer was first dropped off in pieces from Hank in Indiana. It didn’t run and was practically seized up with a bad ring gear. Neighbors were probably very confused. On the alternator, every diagram I looked at shows I have it wired correctly. Still trying to figure that one out. I think I have a kinked diesel fuel line which may be the reason for restricted flow and the sucking in of air somewhere. I’ll have to replace it and see if there is improvement. Pete
  3. Hey guys, Few questions for you, My alternator is not charging for some reason. The dummy light does not light with “key on” and I checked that the bulb works. I found that the terminal 1 on the alternator is not grounded when I think it should be, as long as the machine is not running... Anyone know the reason for this? My diesel side is not running great. I bled the whole system, but after running it for a bit I found air to be in the system and it has white smoke out the exhaust. Anyone know where the air is coming from? I have the new seal and bearing on the clutch drive shaft and doesn’t leak. Added some LEDs and a dash panel to control lights and flame thrower attachment. Peter
  4. I purchased a new front bearing from MIBearings, I think fpsmith might have them too but they never got back to me. They seem to be out there tho. I just reused the old gaskets so hopefully no future problems there.
  5. Chris maybe these pics will help you find your bearings.. hah the shop/shed just barely fits both of these guys - the dozer might have 1 inch to spare on both sides and half an inch before hitting a support post (in pic) and collapsing the shed on myself.. not much room to walk around but it beats no light and the cold if I have a portable heater going. Can’t complain too much or I’ll have Koo after me. yes might be too fancy with the switches and dash panel but that stuff is fun to me. Pete
  6. Just about all out now haha was able to locate the three threaded holes (3,7,11 o’clock) in the front cover which were filled with grease and pop the cover off. Swapped bearing and seal. The bearing didn’t look too bad but oh well I was kinda interested in exploring this part of the dozer anyway. Filled back with oil now need to pop clutch back in. I was able to do it without removing the shifter cover which was nice. I couldn’t tell you how many times I dropped a tool down in the pool of goop..
  7. I don’t have a welder so had to get a little hill billy in making a bracket to hold the alternator. Also had to grind down an exhaust manifold stud a little to get it to jussst fit. The belt is tighter than I would like but hoping it might loosen a bit when it’s run for a while.
  8. Here is a sketch of my proposed wiring for new lights and alternator.
  9. Chris, thank you for your continued encouragement. A lot of these pictures I have never seen before on the forum so trying to document as much as possible without over loading the forum with pics. I have hundreds from crawler 1+2. Hojon, Yes feel free to start your own topic and you may get some more expert feedback. This is a pic of the new main clutch spring which splits into two parts when broken-I think this is what you’re referencing. I would work on the diesel side first and then focus on the steering. There may be a simple fix such as a linkage adjustment or it may be more complicated like pulling the clutches. Pete
  10. Fine fine I’ll pull the front cover haha. I have all the cap screws off but the cover is stuck in place and no where to pry it off. The manual says I can use puller screws to pop it off but I am not sure what that means. Surely someone has done this before? All the other old bearings are going to be jealous once I replace this one.
  11. The outside of the bearing is free but the inside is stuck on the splined shaft. Maybe there is a shoulder that the bearing sits on? I modified a little pry bar but no luck yet.
  12. I have the drive shaft seal off and it was definitely bad with the spring hanging loose and the rubber hardened. I was planning on replacing the bearing at the same time as the seal but I can’t figure out how to remove it. Is there any way to get a puller in there to remove the bearing?
  13. Just checked and the original thermostat is a 165-190. I used a 160 from steiners part number IHS913.
  14. Thanks guys. Chris I was lookin at your thread and wire diagrams. I’m thinking of staying with positive ground. I found a Delco 10si that should work. This is the number. D110Si12V63P. On another note I noticed a puddle of pink oil under the main clutch compartment. When I popped the circular cover I could see that the trans oil had been leaking in around the main drive seal. Has anyone had this happen? Are there replacement seals available? Also can I remove and replace seal from clutch compartment? Looks like there’s three bolts and a large retainer nut that come off. from the diagram the seal is number 69 but has two different part numbers listed. Thanks, Peter
  15. Well after 5 months of work on this hunk of rusty iron, I am happy to say I was pushing some dirt yesterday! Sorry for the dark pics but not much daylight when I get home from work to see anything. I changed the engine oil, injection pump oil, added coolant and put the belly and front guards on. Then finally put the blade on. Now need to get it out to the farm to be put to use. That will be a whole project on its own. Might be good for plowing snow for now. Lol For the five minutes I was pushing around some dirt, logs, and stumps it was a thrill haha I think the work payed off. Now I am moving onto the electrical side of things. I am going to install an alternator (12v, 3 wire, positive ground) and hook up some LED lights. Anyone have suggestion on which alternator to get? Amps required? Brand? Thanks for everyone’s help. Pete
  16. Was just lookin at your pictures and realized that your make shift radiator cap is one of the clutch compartment access hole covers lol. Ive been lookin for a pair of those. All td6's have non-pressurized cooling systems. Pete
  17. Welcome! First off I would get yourself a nice operators manual to get things started. That’s a good lookin machine compared to the one I’ve been working on haha. - In regards to the thermostat I had the same problem. You can remove and place the sensing part in boiling water to see if the needle moves. If it does then your thermostat is bad, either missing or stuck open. 165-190 is the one you want, I got mine from steiners. Make sure to put the original American made gauge back in! -The lube bucket has a special button fitting and is used to lube the rollers and idlers with lower pressure. Don’t use a grease gun as the high pressure will blow out the seals. There are several zerks that will require the grease gun. I believe the rollers take gear oil. I was lucky enough that my oil bucket was in near perfect condition. -Here in Illinois I use “SAE 30 for Diesel engines” from farm and fleet. Wisconsin has similar weather so you should be fine there. -yes they are 12 volt systems, originally two 6 volts in series. -I am just getting to the hydraulics on my dozer so still need to see if the valve has a float. Regards, Pete Chris I am almost out of the trenches!
  18. Does anyone know if the hydraulic valve/tank assembly has a built in oil filter? There are a few plugs on the valve, I’m guessing the big one is the drain but maybe one is access to a filter? I also found a weird bolt in the tank. I’ll try and get a picture of it. Hoses don’t look tooo bad just one with the shell torn that goes to a cylinder. Gotta head to the store tomorrow to get some big wrenches. Had our first snow the day before Halloween. Pete
  19. Thanks Chris haha yes this has been consuming pretty much all of my spare time but I have learned a ton and aquired some more tools! This machine was on the verge of not being worthy to fix up, but glad I was able to bring it back to life. Here are a couple pics of our WC. I may have to visit the orange forum eventually for this one. It sometimes runs well but other times it huffs and puffs and starts running real rough and lunging forward. Havnt had much time to try and diagnose it yet, as it is about 3 hours away on our farm.
  20. I made some good progress the last week. Brakes are back on and the clutch compartment is closed up (hopefully for good). I started it up and went for a quick test drive on gas. It turns great! Now onto the easy stuff haha. I appreciate everyone’s interest in my little project I got goin on. Pete
  21. Both clutches are now back in, tranny is filled with the proper oil. Next on the list is rebuilding the brake bands and then I can button up clutch compartment.
  22. Think that’s about as good as it’s gonna get.
  23. Thanks for checking George. I did see a slot at the top in between the compartments but there must be a lower one too that’s plugged up. I will just try and thin the oil goop out some more and maybe i can get it to flow better.
  24. I’m still curious what that round cap lookin thing is if anyone knows..
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