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Pbach

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Everything posted by Pbach

  1. Well I ran the wet compression test and the compression increased significantly. cylinders 1+2 were around 80psi and cylinders 3+4 both about 110psi. I had to pour a little gas down the top of the intake manifold in order to get the engine to pop. I might have a fuel issue or maybe there is not enough suction to draw in the gas... It actually sounded like it wanted to start up though and was making a cloud of white smoke. I think the results of the wet test point to cylinder wear.. Why would this only be on the front three cylinders? You mentioned soaking them with atf+acetone for a few days, will this increase compression somehow? I think it might be best to pull the head to investigate the valves, and head gasket as well. Let me know what you guys think, I might have an expensive project on my hand, not sure if parts for this engine are even available. Peter
  2. That sounds like the best case scenario to me. Maybe the head just needs to be re torqued?
  3. That is the cover of the drawbar pin which the leaf spring rotates on. I initially thought this had to be removed to pull the engine but it does not.
  4. Good news: I was finally able to crank over the engine the other day with the new ring gear installed. Bad news: when checking compression in each cylinder I found the following- cylinder 1(rad) 35psi cylinder 2: 45psi cylinder 3 :65psi cylinder 4(firewall) 100+psi After doing a little research it would seem I have cylinder wear, valves not sealing, or a bad head gasket. Does this seem like a bad head gasket scenario since cylinder 4 has great compression? Anyone have any advice on what to do next? Regards, Peter
  5. Thanks, got the ring gear on tonight. 425 F for about 45 min did the trick. Had to tap the ring gear down a little to get it to seat.
  6. All good advice, thanks. What temp should I get the ring gear to to avoid messing with the tempering?
  7. I was able to get the ring gear off with a hammer and punch. Initially I tried to take the ring gear off without taking the flywheel off but there’s no clearance to get a punch in there. I have been searching for a new ring gear but have had absolutely no luck. Anyone have any luck finding one in the past? Bates Corp shows 0 in stock and that’s the only place I’ve seen it. Otherwise my options are to rotate the ring gear 90 degrees or flip the ring gear and grind the bevel into the teeth so it engages the bending gear properly. Is the grinding just a rough estimate of a 45 degree cut? How crucial is that to the function of the ring gear? My plan is to put the flywheel in the freezer and heat up the ring gear in the oven when I reassemble. Pete
  8. I got the engine out! Anyone know if I can just flip the ring gear or will there be problems with it seating right on the flywheel?
  9. Hey Chris, yes I ended up buying hanks machine haha. The goal is to get it running and working. I hope to actually restore both someday but we’ll see. If I do that right now I won’t want to use it in the dirt. I also have an Allis charmers WC that I would like to restore, maybe you can give me some pointers! I noticed there are three smaller cap screws underneath the machine that go into the adapter plate of the engine. Do I need to remove these in order to get the engine out? Pete
  10. Ok so I didn't need to remove that u-plate thing that goes over the pin which you call the pivot housing? At least I can put some grease on it and clean up the bolts while its off. I guess I'm not sure what the "pivot retainer" is. I'll take a look next time I'm under there.
  11. I removed the six bolts and u plate yesterday. It was tough to get the correct 1” socket on these as they were all smashed up from driving over rocks. I also found the second of the two dowels underneath. Are these reverse thread? The manual says they will come out by turning a nut onto them?
  12. I recently acquired my second td6 crawler with an IH blade. I need to pull the engine to flip or replace the ring gear before I can try to start her up. The manual talks about putting a wood beam across the front end and jacking it up to take tension off the springs and to give the engine clearance to come out. It then says I have to remove six bolts from underneath the bell housing. Can anyone explain where these bolts are? I don't want to get smacked in the head. Lastly, it says I need to remove two studs by turning a nut onto them? I only see one, maybe its underneath? Peter
  13. Nice collection. Interesting that you posted a picture of a post hole digger driven off the PTO. I have an antique Grosshart/Prewitt post hole digger but have no idea where it was bought/ what tractor it was on, etc, etc. It has always just been collecting dust in the garage at our farm. Interesting enough, I found an old picture online that says the post hole digger is compatible with the TD6! Could my great grandpa have intended to use it on the old td6? Maybe some day I can get it hooked up and running, or possibly restored.
  14. It's been a while.. Been busy with work and traveling ect. but gettin back to the fun stuff. So I had to replace the bendix gear on my starter for the second time... I went to start it a while ago and there was a horrible grinding noise and then when I stopped cranking the motor, the bendix gear shot back and got stuck. When I took the starter apart, the gear had wedged itself onto the smooth portion of the shaft. Replacing the bendix was not a big deal. However, what concerns me is my ring gear. Recently I have been starting the crawler with the crank or using the crank to rotate 90 degrees and then starting it via the starter (That way the bendix engages a good section of the ring gear). This only works if I decide to never put a hydraulic pump on the front. It might be time to rotate the ring gear 90 deg, flip the gear, or replace entirely. All three options require pulling the engine unfortunately... (don't want to do any grinding on the casting). Might be time for an engine hoist as well. haha Anyway, been painting a few odds and ends on the crawler like the side shield and louvers. Replaced spark plugs which we covered in carbon and seems to start easier. Here's a cool picture of an old crawler/dozer used on the beaches of Normandy that I took on vacation. Its sitting on a section of the Mulberry Harbour that was used to transport troops/supplies. PS. Big surprise coming soon..
  15. I am afraid if I had a truck and trailer like yours I would have several more projects haha - that is quite the collection. This might be a dumb question but how did you get those crawlers on/off your trailer? (Unless they could be driven?). My Crawler is also a farm cat (I even found a 70 year old corn stalk in the belly shield when I took it off) it has relatively low hours and undercarriage in above average condition. Still searching for a blade - several jobs are waiting on it out at our farm... Glad my posts/pics helped you!
  16. Yes I do usually need some brakes to turn. Brought out all the 1950s era machines today
  17. Back in action! New Bendix was almost identical to the old one. Got the part delivered and installed just before dark. Out of the few times I started it the new Bendix worked flawlessly! Took her for a short test drive. Thanks everyone for the good info.
  18. Starter is all taken apart. I was able to match the armature part number on my starter to the starter number 1108925 (forgot I had the catalog). My crawler serial number is TDBK24913T7CM - I think the last few numbers/letters mean that I have wide gauge track but could be wrong. The manual says that 501-29936 all had this starter which means it’s actually the earlier version.
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