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Everything posted by Pbach

  1. Chris, Yes I have a new ring gear, I purchased two from fpsmith I believe back when I did the other crawler. Lots of work to get there and then takes less than an hour to actually hammer off the old and replace with the new haha had another nice sunny day so made some progress.
  2. Nice sunny day today so took a break from quarantine to start prepping for engine pull. Ring gear is in BAD shape and needs replacing. Hope everyone is doing well. Pete
  3. Yep should be nice having a functioning charging system now. Having a hard time reading this but does it look like 808 hours on this machine?? I am not sure how many digits are supposed to be showing but this machine has had plentyyy of use.
  4. I was able to get my positive ground alternator working today by replacing the three wire regulator with a one wire setup. Then I flashed the alternator by briefly touching the alternator case (positive ground) to the terminal 1. I have a small enough pulley that I was getting 40-60 amps of charging. I dont believe it’s possible to have a three wire setup with a positive ground alternator because the dummy light will not work and the alternator will never get energized. Now I have an extra alternator I need to find a project for haha
  5. Thanks Chris, This alternator has different internal components and jumpers that allow it to specifically be used for a positive ground system - or so they say.. It is a D110Si12V63P alternator and if you google that you can find out more info on it. My only guess is that something is not right with those additional parts that convert it to positive ground. There is a grounding tab in a “D” shaped whole on the case of the alternator. When I ground the regulator to the case (using a screwdriver), the bulb lights up. So my thinking is that the regulator isn’t getting grounded properly or has some residual charge somehow? Thanks for Steve’s contact, I will have to get in touch with him. Peter
  6. Hello, I recently purchased a 3 wire positive ground 12v 63 amp 10si alternator for my TD6 crawler. I installed it on the crawler and it would not work. The idiot light would NOT come on with the ignition key turned on. The ammeter NEVER moved when running the engine. I then removed and replaced the bridge rectifier, diode trio, brushes, and voltage regulator. After running a bench test, still nothing. I decided it must be something with the stator or wire windings. I purchased a second brand new 10si pos-ground alternator and ran a bench test right out of the box. Still nothing. The idiot light never comes on unless I physically ground terminal 1. This tab is supposed to act as a ground with the engine stopped and key on so I am thoroughly confused and frustrated as to why the light is off. At this point I'm ready to put the old generator back on.. It doesn't help that the place I ordered from has no customer service either... I have read about lots of people having issues with the idiot light staying on but have had no luck in reading about people resolving the light NEVER coming on besides a bad connection. I am confident that all my wired connections are good and have a good ground. I will post a picture of my wiring diagram. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Peter
  7. 24 now haha thank you though. Need to get some more time to work on the toys!
  8. Check out these two links, I did my brakes the same way. http://www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/viewtopic.php?t=5177&start=15 https://www.redpowermagazine.com/forums/topic/69684-td6-brake-band-change-im-stuck/ The brake lining, rivets, and tools I bought from mcmaster. Will need 3/8" End Mill for counter sunk holes, 3/16" tool for hollow rivets, 3/8" drift punch. I used 3M 90 adhesive spray and then riveted the bands and clamped over night. Let me know if you need anything else. Peter
  9. Here is another pic of when the dozer was first dropped off in pieces from Hank in Indiana. It didn’t run and was practically seized up with a bad ring gear. Neighbors were probably very confused. On the alternator, every diagram I looked at shows I have it wired correctly. Still trying to figure that one out. I think I have a kinked diesel fuel line which may be the reason for restricted flow and the sucking in of air somewhere. I’ll have to replace it and see if there is improvement. Pete
  10. Hey guys, Few questions for you, My alternator is not charging for some reason. The dummy light does not light with “key on” and I checked that the bulb works. I found that the terminal 1 on the alternator is not grounded when I think it should be, as long as the machine is not running... Anyone know the reason for this? My diesel side is not running great. I bled the whole system, but after running it for a bit I found air to be in the system and it has white smoke out the exhaust. Anyone know where the air is coming from? I have the new seal and bearing on the clutch drive shaft and doesn’t leak. Added some LEDs and a dash panel to control lights and flame thrower attachment. Peter
  11. I purchased a new front bearing from MIBearings, I think fpsmith might have them too but they never got back to me. They seem to be out there tho. I just reused the old gaskets so hopefully no future problems there.
  12. Chris maybe these pics will help you find your bearings.. hah the shop/shed just barely fits both of these guys - the dozer might have 1 inch to spare on both sides and half an inch before hitting a support post (in pic) and collapsing the shed on myself.. not much room to walk around but it beats no light and the cold if I have a portable heater going. Can’t complain too much or I’ll have Koo after me. yes might be too fancy with the switches and dash panel but that stuff is fun to me. Pete
  13. Just about all out now haha was able to locate the three threaded holes (3,7,11 o’clock) in the front cover which were filled with grease and pop the cover off. Swapped bearing and seal. The bearing didn’t look too bad but oh well I was kinda interested in exploring this part of the dozer anyway. Filled back with oil now need to pop clutch back in. I was able to do it without removing the shifter cover which was nice. I couldn’t tell you how many times I dropped a tool down in the pool of goop..
  14. I don’t have a welder so had to get a little hill billy in making a bracket to hold the alternator. Also had to grind down an exhaust manifold stud a little to get it to jussst fit. The belt is tighter than I would like but hoping it might loosen a bit when it’s run for a while.
  15. Here is a sketch of my proposed wiring for new lights and alternator.
  16. Chris, thank you for your continued encouragement. A lot of these pictures I have never seen before on the forum so trying to document as much as possible without over loading the forum with pics. I have hundreds from crawler 1+2. Hojon, Yes feel free to start your own topic and you may get some more expert feedback. This is a pic of the new main clutch spring which splits into two parts when broken-I think this is what you’re referencing. I would work on the diesel side first and then focus on the steering. There may be a simple fix such as a linkage adjustment or it may be more complicated like pulling the clutches. Pete
  17. Fine fine I’ll pull the front cover haha. I have all the cap screws off but the cover is stuck in place and no where to pry it off. The manual says I can use puller screws to pop it off but I am not sure what that means. Surely someone has done this before? All the other old bearings are going to be jealous once I replace this one.
  18. The outside of the bearing is free but the inside is stuck on the splined shaft. Maybe there is a shoulder that the bearing sits on? I modified a little pry bar but no luck yet.
  19. I have the drive shaft seal off and it was definitely bad with the spring hanging loose and the rubber hardened. I was planning on replacing the bearing at the same time as the seal but I can’t figure out how to remove it. Is there any way to get a puller in there to remove the bearing?
  20. Just checked and the original thermostat is a 165-190. I used a 160 from steiners part number IHS913.
  21. Thanks guys. Chris I was lookin at your thread and wire diagrams. I’m thinking of staying with positive ground. I found a Delco 10si that should work. This is the number. D110Si12V63P. On another note I noticed a puddle of pink oil under the main clutch compartment. When I popped the circular cover I could see that the trans oil had been leaking in around the main drive seal. Has anyone had this happen? Are there replacement seals available? Also can I remove and replace seal from clutch compartment? Looks like there’s three bolts and a large retainer nut that come off. from the diagram the seal is number 69 but has two different part numbers listed. Thanks, Peter
  22. Well after 5 months of work on this hunk of rusty iron, I am happy to say I was pushing some dirt yesterday! Sorry for the dark pics but not much daylight when I get home from work to see anything. I changed the engine oil, injection pump oil, added coolant and put the belly and front guards on. Then finally put the blade on. Now need to get it out to the farm to be put to use. That will be a whole project on its own. Might be good for plowing snow for now. Lol For the five minutes I was pushing around some dirt, logs, and stumps it was a thrill haha I think the work payed off. Now I am moving onto the electrical side of things. I am going to install an alternator (12v, 3 wire, positive ground) and hook up some LED lights. Anyone have suggestion on which alternator to get? Amps required? Brand? Thanks for everyone’s help. Pete
  23. Was just lookin at your pictures and realized that your make shift radiator cap is one of the clutch compartment access hole covers lol. Ive been lookin for a pair of those. All td6's have non-pressurized cooling systems. Pete
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