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About Pbach

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Glen Ellyn, IL
  • Interests
    TD6 Farm Cat, TD6 Dozer, IH 656 Loader, Allis Chalmers WC, Farmall Cub x3

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  1. Just checked and the original thermostat is a 165-190. I used a 160 from steiners part number IHS913.
  2. Thanks guys. Chris I was lookin at your thread and wire diagrams. I’m thinking of staying with positive ground. I found a Delco 10si that should work. This is the number. D110Si12V63P. On another note I noticed a puddle of pink oil under the main clutch compartment. When I popped the circular cover I could see that the trans oil had been leaking in around the main drive seal. Has anyone had this happen? Are there replacement seals available? Also can I remove and replace seal from clutch compartment? Looks like there’s three bolts and a large retainer nut that come off. from the diagram the seal is number 69 but has two different part numbers listed. Thanks, Peter
  3. Well after 5 months of work on this hunk of rusty iron, I am happy to say I was pushing some dirt yesterday! Sorry for the dark pics but not much daylight when I get home from work to see anything. I changed the engine oil, injection pump oil, added coolant and put the belly and front guards on. Then finally put the blade on. Now need to get it out to the farm to be put to use. That will be a whole project on its own. Might be good for plowing snow for now. Lol For the five minutes I was pushing around some dirt, logs, and stumps it was a thrill haha I think the work payed off. Now I am moving onto the electrical side of things. I am going to install an alternator (12v, 3 wire, positive ground) and hook up some LED lights. Anyone have suggestion on which alternator to get? Amps required? Brand? Thanks for everyone’s help. Pete
  4. Was just lookin at your pictures and realized that your make shift radiator cap is one of the clutch compartment access hole covers lol. Ive been lookin for a pair of those. All td6's have non-pressurized cooling systems. Pete
  5. Welcome! First off I would get yourself a nice operators manual to get things started. That’s a good lookin machine compared to the one I’ve been working on haha. - In regards to the thermostat I had the same problem. You can remove and place the sensing part in boiling water to see if the needle moves. If it does then your thermostat is bad, either missing or stuck open. 165-190 is the one you want, I got mine from steiners. Make sure to put the original American made gauge back in! -The lube bucket has a special button fitting and is used to lube the rollers and idlers with lower pressure. Don’t use a grease gun as the high pressure will blow out the seals. There are several zerks that will require the grease gun. I believe the rollers take gear oil. I was lucky enough that my oil bucket was in near perfect condition. -Here in Illinois I use “SAE 30 for Diesel engines” from farm and fleet. Wisconsin has similar weather so you should be fine there. -yes they are 12 volt systems, originally two 6 volts in series. -I am just getting to the hydraulics on my dozer so still need to see if the valve has a float. Regards, Pete Chris I am almost out of the trenches!
  6. Does anyone know if the hydraulic valve/tank assembly has a built in oil filter? There are a few plugs on the valve, I’m guessing the big one is the drain but maybe one is access to a filter? I also found a weird bolt in the tank. I’ll try and get a picture of it. Hoses don’t look tooo bad just one with the shell torn that goes to a cylinder. Gotta head to the store tomorrow to get some big wrenches. Had our first snow the day before Halloween. Pete
  7. Thanks Chris haha yes this has been consuming pretty much all of my spare time but I have learned a ton and aquired some more tools! This machine was on the verge of not being worthy to fix up, but glad I was able to bring it back to life. Here are a couple pics of our WC. I may have to visit the orange forum eventually for this one. It sometimes runs well but other times it huffs and puffs and starts running real rough and lunging forward. Havnt had much time to try and diagnose it yet, as it is about 3 hours away on our farm.
  8. I made some good progress the last week. Brakes are back on and the clutch compartment is closed up (hopefully for good). I started it up and went for a quick test drive on gas. It turns great! Now onto the easy stuff haha. I appreciate everyone’s interest in my little project I got goin on. Pete
  9. Both clutches are now back in, tranny is filled with the proper oil. Next on the list is rebuilding the brake bands and then I can button up clutch compartment.
  10. Think that’s about as good as it’s gonna get.
  11. Thanks for checking George. I did see a slot at the top in between the compartments but there must be a lower one too that’s plugged up. I will just try and thin the oil goop out some more and maybe i can get it to flow better.
  12. I’m still curious what that round cap lookin thing is if anyone knows..
  13. Thanks George, I have added some diesel and thinned the goop quite a bit, but maybe I just need to fill the whole compartment to the brim. This thick goop is gonna have a **** of a time getting through a bearing. I have the clutches out so I can put it in gear to mix it without moving the crawler which is nice. The drawback though is that some of the diesel likes to flow out where the seals should be. I’ll have to pick up some more diesel and keep repeating this I guess. Man this stuff is nasty.
  14. I pulled the plug on the trans housing and tried to drain out as much gunk as possible. It appears that the transmission goop will not drain through the bevel plug. They are connected right? What is the round cap thing underneath the crawler next to the drain plug? Is there just a small hole that connects the two compartments that could be plugged up?
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