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About IHEnnis

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    Eastern Shore MD

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  1. Just had block, head, and crank returned back to me from the machine shop a few days ago. Block pressure tested fine which was great news. Had to redo the sleeve O-ring area on a few of the cylinder holes. Had new injector cups put into the head and the head and valves cleaned up. I was able to order clevite cylinder kits with sleeves, pistons, and bearings for the D358 so I was happy about having their hard parts instead of reliance. Will have to source the gaskets from CNH.
  2. Had time to split the tractor and pull the engine out. Stripped all the accessory's off and pulled the crank out to get the pistons knocked out. Worked good having the crank out to hammer the pistons and sleeves out. Ended up having only one stuck bad, with it ending up coming out with the sleeve. Took and cut that sleeve with a grinder and put it in a press to split it in half off of the piston. Cam looked perfect but crank did have some spots where there was some rust/grime. 75% of the crank looked great. Block, crank, and head are all being sent to Spring Garden Repair Machine Shop in Lancaster County PA to be looked over. Hoping the block does not end up being cracked when pressure tested.
  3. Update: Removed the pan and pulled the caps off all the rods. Could only manage to get two pistons removed because the others still would not move well enough to get crank in correct orientation to remove other rods. Pistons 3 & 4 that where removed looked great with not much scuffing on the skirts or any funny business. The rod crank journals looked perfect and the bearings had little wear. The bad news is i did find a crack in sleeve #5 when trying to remove the rod. I have quickly came to the conclusion that the tractor will need to be split to remove the block and pressure check it and clean the scale. Would hate to do all the work and get it in-framed to only have the block be cracked from sitting outside with the potential of water inside. Have the head power washed off and planning on sending it off to be checked over and have new injector cups and freeze plugs installed.
  4. I am getting to that point. I figure she didn't become stuck in a day so she isn't going to become unstuck in a day. Hopefully the penetrating fluid works its way down around the rings and helps out.
  5. There was a lot of condensation under the valve cover. Still haven't had any luck getting everything moving. Pretty good size bar on the ring gear rocking back and fourth isn't cutting it yet.
  6. Bought this 826 from my neighbor It was his main tractor. SN#2510148U016485 It had been sitting outside for 10-15+ years. Gentleman quit farming and parked tractor outside and let it sit. Originally had bucket over exhaust but it developed a hole in it allowing water and dirt to go down into exhaust. Water was in the oil when I drained it but I am not sure if it was leaking past the liner o rings or just rain getting past the rings into the base. Either way going to inframe engine. Engine would not turn over at all. Surprisingly everything came apart nicely and wasn't to terribly rusty on the inside. Had to purchase another coolant manifold because the original had a hole in it. To the tune of $350 used..... Have PB Blaster and CNH penetrating fluid sitting in the cylinders now to try and get it to move. Still need to remove base and get pistons out. The tractor was missing the panels that have the international emblem on them and also the small panels behind them towards the rear of the tractor. With help from a friend from Ohio looking for them in junk yards we have found a clean straight set. Looking forward to her revival.
  7. Have a 826 in need of a D-358 rebuild kit. Hoping to not have to go Reliance.
  8. I don't see a limit switch on the master cylinder. The main frame isn't level in the center and Is causeing the center two rows to have depth control issues.
  9. This is a flex model with the hinge point in the center. When raising all the way up the frame is level. When you let it down though the center part of the frame doesn't seem to come down far enough and it stops. The end of the frame continues down to where they should be running.
  10. Wrong color I know but I am looking for assistance on my 7200 12 row planter. The outside rows are running perfectly level on the parallel arms and the inside rows (6 & 7) are not getting the same amount of downforce because the frame is humped in the center. I have taken the stops off of the master cylinder and rehashed the hydraulic system multiple times with no difference made. Any advice is appreciated, Thanks!
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