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Posts posted by BobinIL

  1. On 11/8/2022 at 7:03 AM, Matt Kirsch said:

    Where do you have this adjusted? This is the only other place you can move the plow over, and you do that by moving the pull bar all the way in. Pretty much exactly like what's shown.... I'm wondering if you could even "fudge it" by drilling a two more holes...


    Just a follow up I moved the spreader plate over like in this picture except in the lower row of holes.  The plow is now taking a full cut on the first bottom.  Thanks for the advice!

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  2. I have an IH 720 4-18 plow that I am pulling with my 966 set on 30" rows. 18.4-34 tires.  I have slid the hitch bar all the way to the right and still the first bottom only seems to be taking about a 14" cut.  How can I get the first bottom to take more cut without moving the rear Wheel out on my tractor?

  3. On 9/20/2022 at 1:52 AM, Fred B said:


    Try taking 5/8 lock washers and tap them on the auger  flights, about every 14 inches, I have found it will move heads in milo.

    I did this to my problem child 820 and it helped.  Upgraded to a 1020 this year and have high hopes for smoother feeding beans.

  4. I have a 1066 on an EZ flow 450 grain cart.  This is the first time I have used this cart tractor combination.  We had to fix a leak in the cart gate cylinder when we were testing everything empty.  Then we went to the field and but a couple loads in the cart about 200 bushels.  I tried to start the auger to unload it and it killed the tractor.  I then noticed the gate was still wide open.  Now the auger is slugged full of beans and while trying to get it un slugged the PTO now slips.  It looks like I will be rebuilding the PTO and unloading the cart under the bin auger so I can unplug the cart auger.  Now that I have admitted to being a dumba$$ and messing up my PTO here is my question.   I assume that when I get everything fixed and the cart emptied and unplugged I can refill the cart with the auger gate CLOSED,  then start the auger and slowly open the gate until the grain flows at a rate that the tractor can handle comfortably.  

  5. I want to follow up on this topic.  I have removed the old seat and all hardware.  Used about 3 cans of degreaser to get the floor cleaned as well as scraping up the thick gunk with a putty knife.  Yes that seat hardware is heavy!!   I pulled the floor plate, removed the hydraulic hoses and capped the lines coming out of the top transmission.  1/2" (I think) JIC #6 cap. Also you need to cap the little 1/8 rubber hose that allows the oil to seep back from the top of the original seat cylinder.  I just screwed a bolt into it and put a hose clamp on it under the cab.  I have ordered a K&M 1004 mechanical suspension fabric seat for about $900.00.  I will post an update when it comes in and I get it installed. 

  6. I would like to hear from anyone that has put a K&M air ride suspension seat in their 5*88 series tractors to replace the leaking hydraulic seat.  How did you cap the hydraulic lines?  Which model seat did you use?  did you have to do any modifications to get it to bolt up?  Was it worth the $1200?


    Thanks in advance

  7. I have a real nice barn find 1963 706D with 2800 hours working tach.  I want to show this tractor off but want to be careful not to blow the head gasket.  It has a 2 pt hitch and I would like to plow with it.  I am thinking a 540 plow either 4-14 or 3-16 would be a good match. I never use ether on it.  I put new glow plugs in it and it starts perfectly.  It currently has 16.9-38 back tires on it that need replaced.  Tractor data says it should have 15.5-38 on it.  which would be best for a show and plowing demonstration tractor?  


  8. I am working on restoring my 404 utility and last night while breaking down the hood for primer 2 of the threaded studs that hold the clips for the hood skirts broke off. I was ultra careful while removing these but 2 broke anyway.  What is a good way to repair these and fasten the skirt clips back on without marring the outside surface of the hood?   First picture is a broken one the second picture is a stud that did not break  The 3rd pic is the entire hood.  Things are going so well I don't want to mess it up now.




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