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About Andejo

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  1. I replaced everything and did not install the bushings like J-Mech suggested. I should have done it that way but I didn't ask. I ended up ruffing up one of mine a little bit. Hardest part was getting the old one out and the retainer. I ended up heating up the retainer a little bit and using a 5 lb slide hammer to get them out. Buy and extra O ring because they are easy to rip. There cheap. When you send the tube threw it can tear your o ring from the round hole just in on your tube. I filled the edges down a bit so it wasn't so sharp. Good luck.
  2. So I re read the manual and that little part that where it says the hydro oil should be at lest 65.6 C (150deg F) when setting the pressure. I did not I just started it and let it run for a few minuets and set it. I seen 65 and thought ok, set it cold thinking it was Fahrenheit . So I realized my mistake and ran the tractor and tested the temp around the PTO area with a temp gun. Once it got above the 150 F I was able to set the pressure. My PTO does not turn now even at 2300 RPM when it is disengaged. Thanks everybody for the help. I feel like an idiot so I hope this helps others dow
  3. I just had my PTO gone threw by the dealer to replace the 540 shaft, it was bent and just do an overall inspection. I reinstalled the PTO and set the pressure to 235. When I start the tractor cold the PTO will spin. I then at low RPM I engage PTO and bring it up to 1000 RPM and then back it down and disengage the PTO it will stop in about three seconds. If I then bring the tractor up in RPM the PTO starts to move without being engaged. Nothing in the service manual says how to adjust that from happening. Do I have to pull it and bring it back to the dealer for a break piston. As far as I kno
  4. Does anybody have the link to the CIH parts breakdown that goes in to detail. Not the parts breakdown like Messick's shows. It has a very detailed breakdown things like brake controller replacement parts. Aux valve replacement parts. Iv been on CIH website and it is not what I have seen before. Thanks
  5. J Mech....The second tool I made put it it right in maybe not the correct according to the book but its clean. Prefect like a press. I got my bar in but I tore my quad ring on the left side. Waiting on a new one. I appreciate your info!!
  6. After modifying my tool the second one went in like nothing. I thought about doing this out of the gate but thought no it will tap in just easy. The first bushing said otherwise.
  7. Ok I got everything out then the things got worse. I am 3/4 in with my first bushing and I think I destroyed it? I put grease on everything to help it go in. I used the old bushing to install the new on. Is this bushing shot now or can it have a little hammer rash and be fine. This is were it sits and I haven't went any further. This is the tool I was using. Does anybody have a tool that they use that works better?
  8. I'm in the process of replacing my retainers and bushings on my 1086. I haven't got them out yet but the one on the right is almost flush and the one on the left is set in further. Service manual does not say anything about the how deep to set them. Any help would be great. It wasn't leaking very bad but I had to pull my PTO. The o-rings looked good, no tares.
  9. Mine was a ground problem. After tractor was split the ground was not reconnected. It would work like yours until it quit all together. I found the ground resting on the frame near the right battery. It now works like it should.
  10. I used PEX in my shop. Its white so it matches my liner steel. My Neighbor has used PEX for years. I have all the tools already for crimping.
  11. I installed 1/2 pex with two 50' hose reels on each end of the 40 x 40 shop. My ceiling is 14' with white liner steel. I mounted them at 10 feet so they are not in the way. I put my air compressor in a separate room that is heated 24-7. On my compressor I removed the 1/4 line from the pump head to the tank and ran soft copper to an after cooler and then to horizontal copper then to the tank. I get almost zero water in my tank. My plasma cutter works so much better because of the drier air. Its a single stage compressor from Manards. Temps at the pump head after running wide open for 3 min i
  12. Still not sure which # the seals are for the top.
  13. So do the top first and leave the pump on and disconnect the ports, dust seal and snap ring and turn the wheel. So looking at the parts diagram i'm not sure which are the top seals are the correct ones to replace? It looks like # 36, 37 and maybe 38? Thanks very much!
  14. My 1086 power steering hand pump is leaking at the bottom only. I have found some people are having problems getting the right length of seal? The only part # I found for it is # is 86585594. Should a person replace top and bottom at the same time? Top is not leaking. Is it worth repairing or buy a Reman? Not sure how hard of a job it will be to replace. Thanks
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