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Andejo

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  1. That is how it is installed, thank you. Now my pressure is set to about 240 and it works but now my pto spins when it is not engaged. I can stop it with the bottom of my boot. But I don't like that I have a new problem.
  2. Sparky, The cup is down, not in the upper spring, I do believe it is right? The book is very good but some things are not so clear. Thanks, I am trying to learn and there is so much. Appreciate it.
  3. I had my 1086 PTO rebuilt a year ago and I thought that I had the initial pressure reading to be around 40 PSI. My current pressure at 1000 RPM is 240 PSI. I started to have what I think is an issue of my PTO not coming on when I engage it. It seems that I would have to rev it up higher than normal. So Back to the book and started testing everything. I do not have 40 psi at the B position following the procedure in the book. It says to get it up to 1000 rpm and then disengaged the PTO. I am assuming that I rev it down then check the B position. I tried it both ways at an Idle and still at the 1000 RPM. No difference. I have about 20 psi. I took the valve out and found that it already had the 5 shims that the book said I would need at 20 PSI to get to 40 PSI. I took them out to see if anything would change and it did not. I did notice that the control valve was scarred up about a 1/4 or less near the top of that valve. Not bad but it seems to have been rubbing on something. Could that be part of my problem. Plenty of Hytran on the stick. What RPM should my PTO engage if everything is working as it should. The PTO stops when I shut it off with nothing hooked up. Nothing seems to be slipping. Is the 40 PSI critical to the PTO function? Thanks
  4. I got the bolster repaired and all the o rings replaced. Before I put the front axle on I put the radiator on and pressure tested it. It did not leak so I think it was pivot shaft nut that was loose. When I took the radiator off there was a 3" x the width of the radiator piece of rubber on the bottom. Is there a reason that it should be there? When I put it back to where I think it would have gone it ended up tilting my radiator back far enough so that my fan hits on the shroud.
  5. Thank you all. Dale thanks again. I have all replacements parts on order. Piston seals are special order so I won't see them until Tuesday. I will be out of town for two weeks so project is on hold. I will let you all know how it turns out!
  6. The top the bolster was dry. everything above it too. I plan on replacing everything but the sleeve. I keep thinking the nut that was loose might be all it was. Its the only thing that was obvious. Thanks
  7. I have a leak on the front end of the bolster. The banjo fittings were not leaking. I pulled it all apart and could not find any bad o rings. sleeve and all. The top nut that holds the pivot shaft was loose. I got 4-5 turns on it. should have put it back together and tried it. Wondering if my piston sleeve is ok. It has a scratch on the side wall. I don't have the 2 o rings on each side of the piston just one. Do I need it the second one. Will it fit on the piston next to the Teflon one. Tractor seers perfect. It has a little damage on the Teflon ring. Bad pic. Should it be replaced? Thanks
  8. I replaced everything and did not install the bushings like J-Mech suggested. I should have done it that way but I didn't ask. I ended up ruffing up one of mine a little bit. Hardest part was getting the old one out and the retainer. I ended up heating up the retainer a little bit and using a 5 lb slide hammer to get them out. Buy and extra O ring because they are easy to rip. There cheap. When you send the tube threw it can tear your o ring from the round hole just in on your tube. I filled the edges down a bit so it wasn't so sharp. Good luck.
  9. So I re read the manual and that little part that where it says the hydro oil should be at lest 65.6 C (150deg F) when setting the pressure. I did not I just started it and let it run for a few minuets and set it. I seen 65 and thought ok, set it cold thinking it was Fahrenheit . So I realized my mistake and ran the tractor and tested the temp around the PTO area with a temp gun. Once it got above the 150 F I was able to set the pressure. My PTO does not turn now even at 2300 RPM when it is disengaged. Thanks everybody for the help. I feel like an idiot so I hope this helps others down the road. Thanks again everybody!
  10. I just had my PTO gone threw by the dealer to replace the 540 shaft, it was bent and just do an overall inspection. I reinstalled the PTO and set the pressure to 235. When I start the tractor cold the PTO will spin. I then at low RPM I engage PTO and bring it up to 1000 RPM and then back it down and disengage the PTO it will stop in about three seconds. If I then bring the tractor up in RPM the PTO starts to move without being engaged. Nothing in the service manual says how to adjust that from happening. Do I have to pull it and bring it back to the dealer for a break piston. As far as I know the PTO did not engage on its own before I took it in. Thanks.
  11. Does anybody have the link to the CIH parts breakdown that goes in to detail. Not the parts breakdown like Messick's shows. It has a very detailed breakdown things like brake controller replacement parts. Aux valve replacement parts. Iv been on CIH website and it is not what I have seen before. Thanks
  12. J Mech....The second tool I made put it it right in maybe not the correct according to the book but its clean. Prefect like a press. I got my bar in but I tore my quad ring on the left side. Waiting on a new one. I appreciate your info!!
  13. After modifying my tool the second one went in like nothing. I thought about doing this out of the gate but thought no it will tap in just easy. The first bushing said otherwise.
  14. Ok I got everything out then the things got worse. I am 3/4 in with my first bushing and I think I destroyed it? I put grease on everything to help it go in. I used the old bushing to install the new on. Is this bushing shot now or can it have a little hammer rash and be fine. This is were it sits and I haven't went any further. This is the tool I was using. Does anybody have a tool that they use that works better?
  15. I'm in the process of replacing my retainers and bushings on my 1086. I haven't got them out yet but the one on the right is almost flush and the one on the left is set in further. Service manual does not say anything about the how deep to set them. Any help would be great. It wasn't leaking very bad but I had to pull my PTO. The o-rings looked good, no tares.
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