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Everything posted by hippy5488

  1. take linkage and top nut off. pull up on stem if no resistence is felt then little pin is probably broke. comes out bottom plug
  2. a lot of the new guides tend to be made of a softer material than the old ones. have run into this twice in the last few years. both of them where tw ford engines no IH though. also had one that was running high egt for prolonged period of time that wiped out guides.
  3. friend wants to pull his 560 in the 7000 lbs. class. He bought it with turbo on it and it smokes a little. know idea of hp what gear would you guys pull in. im thinking 3rd.
  4. thanks. cant find much on line about it. the ones i find all are diesal powered. have seen where it is a hesston 8100 but not sure
  5. looking at a 8820 self propelled windrower. has a 14 foot auger head and crimper. engine is a slant 6 mopar. just wondering if it would work good in heavy tall grass and alfalfa. and what ballpark value would be decent paint and rubber. sickle drive jack shaft needs replaced it broke where the brg was spinning on shaft and front push bar is bent.
  6. what is the inj. leaking around the seal? just guessing you mean the top dust seal. if so nothing should be leaking there. probably need new inj. sleeve put in head and new copper crush washer. then maybe recheck valve settings
  7. if late model spring 139130c1 spring is used the late model park pawl needs to be installed to. part no. 139141c1. they changed the tooth angle for lighter spring to keep the same holding capacity of park
  8. sounds like a normal day around here.
  9. i must be to old. i hate any manual on the computer or pdf. i like a book in front of me that i can turn the pages on. but then again i cussed micro fiche to
  10. that is a circlip. but before u can do anything with the check poppet the top bolt that holds the valve stack on has to come out. it goes thru poppet body. then tap down lightly on top of body. sometimes oring picks will get behind circlip with a lot of choice words added about the engineer that thought that thing was a good idea to use. ive had some that ive had to drill a small whole in valve to be able to push circlip in to get out. use snap ring when put back together. theres two orings and a backup ring that will need replaced
  11. as stated earlier spacer part no. is 1252474c2. the seal part no. is 1252473c1. but looks like you need a new exhaust housing on your turbo to get a good seal.
  12. something is probably in the compensater on front pump or a signal check valve
  13. taking voltage measurement from ehc box in cab. rock shaft pot set at .01 volt in lower position when in raise position arms go to top of travel and it stays on high pressure. can not adjust linkage in slot to get it off of high press. or any free up travel in arms. this one seems to be baffling me for some reason.
  14. 7140 3 point stays on high pressure when raised. have checked the pots and set correct. moving the arm on the hight pot does"nt change it. draft pots. are bypassed. is next step in hitch valve? tia
  15. i think years ago there must of been a torque chart that listed them plugs at 300 ft. lbs. I get some in the shop that i think they must of had a 10 foot piece of pipe yo tighten them up. have the right square drive sockets but still have had to weld nuts on even a few ive had to drill out
  16. hippy5488


    have a 5088 that has 12000 hrs never had any updates done. only injectors and pump done. the motor is a little tired but still feeds cows every day.
  17. the first 8560 massey had cav pumps. dealer was supposed to change them out to inline p pump. i changed ser# 3, 5, 7, if memory serves me correct
  18. harrow sections placed upside down in the entrance will keep them out. mommy and daddy dont like buying all four tires more than once.
  19. the only grinder ive ever owned.(had artsway,ih,newholland,omc and lorenz) that would crack corn and not powder half of it was a lorenz. would like to get a roller mixer but then cant bulk up with hay. as far as the not mixing part the sides and cone probably have rust on them. i put a screen on the bottom side of unload auger to let flour drop out when filing my bulk bins for calves. then feed the fines to cows. pain in the but to do but priced new grinder and decided i could do a little extra work for the price and they could'nt guarantee new one wouldnt powder corn.
  20. i would use a straight edge. good no. 3 tip in torch set gauges at 50 psi oxy. 3 psi. acy. keep the cone flame just off of steel plate. used to cut a lot of thick plate for motor bases. with a little practice and patience will be little to no slag to chip off and very little grinding to clean
  21. as stated above it almost acts like a shock absorber for the pump. also have seen 10 hp. raise on the dyno with correct line versus hyd. hose. but that was only tractor i tried it on
  22. i second the slim brauns from harbor freight first lite in 50 years that i can position so i can see and not be shining in my eyes. only downfall is they need charged more than i thought they would so ended up buying 2 so one is always charged. i think their around 30-40 bucks but on sale for 20 alot of times
  23. there is a big pin that is in the grooves of shift shaft the interlock mech. is run buy the shift cable top shaft is 1st 2nd bottom shaft is 3rd pull pin and clean the dirt and chaff that is packed in the groove in 3rd shift shaft that wont let pin go all the way into shaft causing it to rub hard on top shaft when going into 3rd
  24. any hy capacity dealers in your area they have one that seems reasonble priced. have never seen theres or used one. i have a old IH setup but would think theres would work fine. forget this idea just checked part availability says out of stock but was $1000
  25. any hy capacity dealers in your area they have one that seems reasonble priced. have never seen theres or used one. i have a old IH setup but would think theres would work fine
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