hippy5488

5488 is s.# 2465 june of 1983. 1480 combine s# 44001 feb of 1983

the early ones was grounded with the switch. large ring terminal went around switch when installing before tightening up. with that being said electronics like good clean power and grounds. the batteries and connections and cables should be kept in good shape. It would eleminate 90% of peoples problems with these tractors

i use the harbor freight magnetic socket rails. the best i have found to hold sockets in my road chest. have tried all kinds of socket rails over the years. stainless rails, the plastic holder the socket goesw over long pin, snapon had a metal plate that clips where pop rivited to and the twist lock rails. the harbor freight magnetic socket rail is so far the best ive found in almost 40 yrs of turning wrenches

for easier steering all u need to do is set up the relief pressure in mcv valve

there are several agco dealers around. I use zieglar cat for agco parts. in my experiance agco supports older equipment parts better than the other two big companies

with out the sentry module in place there is a possibilty of two clutch [packs being engaged at the same time. if that happens the sentry module will look real cheap compared to what it will cost to fix tranny

ih has/ had a seal and brg. cross referance book. i have one from the 80s that i use alot. also go to KaKapart on the web. type in ih part no. it will give u the cross referance to several different manufactures. I think it is a foreign company but sure is handy to cross referance brg. and reals

on a ih diesal tractor without a turbo u wasnt working hard enough if didnt have flames out of stack at night

as been said make sure sentry is working. electric system needs to be kept in good shape ie no junk batteries or connections. good hyd. oil and a little maintenance go a long way. as far as parts go no differnt than getting some parts and price for boxcar magnums. its stupid how many parts have been dropped for the early magnums

case ih is using reliance for some gaskets and engine kits. no this for a fact from parts managers. if u get lucky might get a felpro set in some thats left over. victor and mahle still make head gaskets for older ih engines. yes i retorque most heads. pretty easy if they have a block or tank heater. seal coolant system up qand plug heater in over night retorque set valves then finish putting tractor back together

sometimes a high hour machine is way better than a low hour machine. it all depends on how well they have been taken care of. At 3000 hours on a combine is where it starts needing a lot of parts replaced imho. i run a big no. 1660 with 6500 hrs. that looks and operates like new but anything that looks like it needs replaced is replaced with ih parts. been rained on twice and snowed on once since new. all the updates available has been done execpt afx rotor. neighbor has a 2588 that i wouldnt trade for. been rode hard and put up wet its whole 2000 hrs. always broke and cobbled together. so my point is look at what ever u buy real good

the belt under cab is for reel drive. not the main hyd drive belt. main belt is on left side of machine u will see the hyd. pump. also if not using the reel the two hyd. lines needs coupled together

u can call me. dont always hear phone leave message

if u rebuilt mcv valve and put the pump behind valve in new it has nothing to do with rear remotes or 3 point

sometimes the small things get u. got a call from older farmer in area the other day. he said his ahhc didnt work. i show up he lowers head and as soon as he lets off button head quits going down. i get meter out to check voltage but first get in cab and try myself no go. start to diagnose and no juice. decide to start at auto switch so get back in cab to check. notice reel was in auto but not head height. i was just up there aqnd tried it. push switch to auto works perfect. all i can say is it **** to get old and overlook the simple stuff i would of caught 40 yrs ago

if no hdr height control are u running bar in middle of travel most of the time? reel could need finger timing set. how fast is reel speed? are a few things i can think of. if was close enough would help u figure out gremlins. find a old ih mechanic in your area

if u hook head up then in auto mode if u push head height button and it works backwards with pigtail remove it. if backwards without pigtail install it. the serial no. break is somewhere around jjc 200000. as far as not feeding are u meaning reel isnt putting beans into auger or auger fingers doesnt feed into throat? both are adjustable to cure your problem as long as finger crankshaft isnt broke or bent really bad. u do have all the fingers in the head? there is a full flighting kit that does away with fingers that works really well if crank is messed up

the last pic. that was posted the linkage pivot point is to high. looks like u used existing holes in header frame? you dont use those holes need to drill new holes 1 3/4 inch down from them. then move linkage to top hole in pivot. i have installed many of those kits over the years. never had to modify anything other than adding the pigtail for older machines. once every thing is set right it will be within correct voltage range

forget about the orings. get two of part no. 368548r1 quad rings to replace them. then when u put the bolt in that holds the tube u are probably going to have to shim behind the tab.u want the tube as straight in the bores as possible

the strap is only a tool that makes sure pickup fingers are set right for the 28 degree travel of cutter bar and pot.

flow control spring for that remote could be weak or broken

find a hy capacity dealer. have them order the origional prestolite solenoid. problem fixed

the tool is a strap with a couple bends and holes for bolting to head and arm. it locates arm at 14 degrees fore or aft. depends if cutter bar is down or locked up. to make sure u have the full travel of cutter bar in sync with pot.

if u could figure out if the sensing arm is 14 degrees fore or aft u could use vise grips to hold it in place when adjusting the feeler pads. its alot easier with the tool. part no. 86985617 i carry one in service truck 75% of ahhc complaints ers fixed in very little time using this tool and 2 bolts. also make sure u unhook the assist spring on right hand end of head on sensing tube before adj.

you need the pigtail wire to make it work on older combines. plus you need the little piece that comes with the kit that positions cutter bar in correct location to set the fingers under the head so they are set the same.