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hippy5488

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Everything posted by hippy5488

  1. with out the sentry module in place there is a possibilty of two clutch [packs being engaged at the same time. if that happens the sentry module will look real cheap compared to what it will cost to fix tranny
  2. ih has/ had a seal and brg. cross referance book. i have one from the 80s that i use alot. also go to KaKapart on the web. type in ih part no. it will give u the cross referance to several different manufactures. I think it is a foreign company but sure is handy to cross referance brg. and reals
  3. on a ih diesal tractor without a turbo u wasnt working hard enough if didnt have flames out of stack at night
  4. as been said make sure sentry is working. electric system needs to be kept in good shape ie no junk batteries or connections. good hyd. oil and a little maintenance go a long way. as far as parts go no differnt than getting some parts and price for boxcar magnums. its stupid how many parts have been dropped for the early magnums
  5. case ih is using reliance for some gaskets and engine kits. no this for a fact from parts managers. if u get lucky might get a felpro set in some thats left over. victor and mahle still make head gaskets for older ih engines. yes i retorque most heads. pretty easy if they have a block or tank heater. seal coolant system up qand plug heater in over night retorque set valves then finish putting tractor back together
  6. sometimes a high hour machine is way better than a low hour machine. it all depends on how well they have been taken care of. At 3000 hours on a combine is where it starts needing a lot of parts replaced imho. i run a big no. 1660 with 6500 hrs. that looks and operates like new but anything that looks like it needs replaced is replaced with ih parts. been rained on twice and snowed on once since new. all the updates available has been done execpt afx rotor. neighbor has a 2588 that i wouldnt trade for. been rode hard and put up wet its whole 2000 hrs. always broke and cobbled together. so my point is look at what ever u buy real good
  7. the belt under cab is for reel drive. not the main hyd drive belt. main belt is on left side of machine u will see the hyd. pump. also if not using the reel the two hyd. lines needs coupled together
  8. u can call me. dont always hear phone leave message
  9. if u rebuilt mcv valve and put the pump behind valve in new it has nothing to do with rear remotes or 3 point
  10. sometimes the small things get u. got a call from older farmer in area the other day. he said his ahhc didnt work. i show up he lowers head and as soon as he lets off button head quits going down. i get meter out to check voltage but first get in cab and try myself no go. start to diagnose and no juice. decide to start at auto switch so get back in cab to check. notice reel was in auto but not head height. i was just up there aqnd tried it. push switch to auto works perfect. all i can say is it **** to get old and overlook the simple stuff i would of caught 40 yrs ago
  11. if no hdr height control are u running bar in middle of travel most of the time? reel could need finger timing set. how fast is reel speed? are a few things i can think of. if was close enough would help u figure out gremlins. find a old ih mechanic in your area
  12. if u hook head up then in auto mode if u push head height button and it works backwards with pigtail remove it. if backwards without pigtail install it. the serial no. break is somewhere around jjc 200000. as far as not feeding are u meaning reel isnt putting beans into auger or auger fingers doesnt feed into throat? both are adjustable to cure your problem as long as finger crankshaft isnt broke or bent really bad. u do have all the fingers in the head? there is a full flighting kit that does away with fingers that works really well if crank is messed up
  13. the last pic. that was posted the linkage pivot point is to high. looks like u used existing holes in header frame? you dont use those holes need to drill new holes 1 3/4 inch down from them. then move linkage to top hole in pivot. i have installed many of those kits over the years. never had to modify anything other than adding the pigtail for older machines. once every thing is set right it will be within correct voltage range
  14. forget about the orings. get two of part no. 368548r1 quad rings to replace them. then when u put the bolt in that holds the tube u are probably going to have to shim behind the tab.u want the tube as straight in the bores as possible
  15. the strap is only a tool that makes sure pickup fingers are set right for the 28 degree travel of cutter bar and pot.
  16. flow control spring for that remote could be weak or broken
  17. find a hy capacity dealer. have them order the origional prestolite solenoid. problem fixed
  18. the tool is a strap with a couple bends and holes for bolting to head and arm. it locates arm at 14 degrees fore or aft. depends if cutter bar is down or locked up. to make sure u have the full travel of cutter bar in sync with pot.
  19. if u could figure out if the sensing arm is 14 degrees fore or aft u could use vise grips to hold it in place when adjusting the feeler pads. its alot easier with the tool. part no. 86985617 i carry one in service truck 75% of ahhc complaints ers fixed in very little time using this tool and 2 bolts. also make sure u unhook the assist spring on right hand end of head on sensing tube before adj.
  20. you need the pigtail wire to make it work on older combines. plus you need the little piece that comes with the kit that positions cutter bar in correct location to set the fingers under the head so they are set the same.
  21. thanks for replies. found the problem when installed years ago they used a scotch lock connecter to tap into the clean grain sensor wire. took panel off side of cab and soon as i seen that knew i had found my problem. them stupid things should be outlawed all they do is cause problems.
  22. have 1660 with ag leader pf 3000 yield monitor. it powers up fine but doesnt read any functions when combineing. like the monitor doesnt think we are combineing. happened when changing fields shut it down traveled a few miles to next field. it powered up fine but just shows 0 in all functions. does anybody know what tells the monitor to start working? only function working is cut height.
  23. if you put much air pressure on lube tube the baffle is definetely bad now dont take much air pressure to mess them up. hope this isnt the case. block lube tube off then put back together see what pressures are then.
  24. take a close look at the spring for friction adjustment. have had them stick to the big washer and sorta wind up when at wide open throttle. then they unwind and move lever. if this makes any sense to you. only way i can describe it.
  25. if you buy lawson products the drawer are cheap and the cabinet is usually free. most of there stuff is excellent quality and cheaper than the local farm stores
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