Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by hippy5488

  1. sleeve can crack. bolster itself can crack. clean it up real good the lines rust out under rad. and can make it appear to be leaking where ure talking about
  2. did u go thru mcv valve? what are youre pressures?
  3. i doubt a&i are making them. agree their all coming from the same place in china. even case ih ones. i try to keep the original spindles when possible and use hy cap clamp type steering arms to make up for spline wear
  4. there is basically nothing that will interchange. pins are different , cly is different. cyl. trunnion caps are different. most bolsters u find are different. steering hand pump is different also
  5. dont want to hijack thread but. how do u guys that raise sunflowers keep them from spreading and becoming a unwanted weed? where iam from any sunflower that is seen gets cut or sprayed asap. the birds carry the seed and a big area will be taken over by sunflowers like waterways edge of fields and pastures.
  6. top left would be the teflon seal ring between rear housing and top lift cover. if coming from up high. if coming from about third way down from top of housing could be lube line. either way most likely going to take pulling top cover to fix. should add before i get pummeled if its the lube line leaking it wont cause your current problem. but u just found a new problem
  7. looks like top link runs pretty close to couplers when using three point. have any issues with that?
  8. in my world the more garlic the better
  9. i was just interested where they were from. i put several in just trying to save myself a headache in the future. never had a problem with hy cap but unless case ih has changed there supplier u couldnt give me one. thats another story we wont go into
  10. curious as to where u got pumps from
  11. they are nothing like the old axle setup. you really need a service manual to look at so proper brg preload is achieved. you also need a porta power with a pressure gauge that you can convert to lbs. of force to set properly.
  12. if not mistaken the snap ring in the pic is the piston stop ring. the snap ring that holds the clutch drum in place is heavier.
  13. i have the kit. its in loose hands if interested
  14. i dont pull cab on 88s with them i remove floor and seat. magnums is a different story.
  15. give em a inch they'll take a mile is what i was always told
  16. if u are trying to run that much on a shaft that long u deffinetly need to have a brg on each end of shaft. then u could put a coupling and line it up on both ends or a u joint on each end
  17. do u have a relief valve in system
  18. if you plan on keeping the tractor a long time p pump conversion will be cheaper in the long run imo
  19. with that far between supports and throwing a pulley on the shaft that is going to put a side load on the shaft there isnt a coupler made to withstand that. u joints will work but with the pulley on there support bearings at each end would be ideal.
  20. with a ujoint on one end and a coupler on the other end of shaft coupler will not be aligned. there will be a lot of vibration and u will eat spiders alot
  21. had a 466 doing that right after a major overhaul. finally traced it down to the freshly rebuilt inj. pump putting a small amount of fuel in oil
  22. thats a hy capacity seat sold several and everyone has been happy with them
  • Create New...