hippy5488

for germ test wet paper towels place seed between them. put in a old cooler or anything that dont let much sun light in. put ten kernals in if 9 sprout u have 90% germ. if 8 sprout u have 80% germ

the pin that goes thru the drive dog is supposed to be a shear pin. its soft its supposed to break before gear or auger damage occurs. farmers being farmers the first pin that sheared got replaced with a grade 5 or 8 bolt that they had laying around

some ivecos had a filter in the blowby recover system. they never get changed . then they put excess oil vapor into the intake air system. the filter is usually on the back of engine . looks like a square box. its supposed to be replaced every 500 hrs. to prevent this. i think im the only one in this area that replaces them every one that comes in the shop. nobody ever knows they have one and its suposed to be changed with every 500 hour oil and filter change

1 in. impact, 200psi. shop air with 1/2 hose. havent had any that takes more than 10 min. to loosen

does anybody know if someone is making new right hand console top pieces or where to get good ones from? dealer said nla. need the two top pieces tia

imho if your buying bulls that cheap they probably shouldnt be bulls. for 9 head i would be looking real hard at ai program. then try to keep some good hfrs. and keep with the ai. in a few years u could be selling a lot more pounds at the sale barn or maybe even sell a better bull than what u are going to buy for 1900

i wouldnt be afraid of the icons. i have been impressed with there quality. all my tools in shop are snapon or mac. service truck hasa little bit of everything in it from wright, williams or Slip and Kill. broke 2 SK ratchets 35 miles from home on a sunday. 10 miles from harbor freight store bought a long handle flex head 1/2 icon ratchet put 2 foot pipe on it. it took the bolts out that broke the anvils off the Slip and Kills

had the same experiance growing up. except when turning wrenches on stuffit was a older brother. u should see what he can do to steel hyd. lines or inj. lines when they dont thread on right away. my dad thought if working cows they should always be running. lots of screaming throwing dirt clouds and cracking whips

look at mcmaster carr. have got the same design from them just dont know about the right size. however that seem more reasonable than 1990625c1 price. $69 a piece. the cable ends for magnum hyd. cables. blew my mind

there is plastic bushings in the cross tubes for shifter and park. they wear out and let it drop down causing this problem

easiest way to tell if on no. 1 cyl. is to take the triangle shape cover off side of pump. theres a line on the pump head. if u can see the line u are on no. 1

it depends on wich end the lines have on them weather u use steel or teflon sealing rings.

i have a customer that has a xtx 185. he's hard on equipment and the xtx stands up as well as the magnums he has. if u need to buy parts for a mccormick cross everything u can to caseih their almost half price of mccormick on most things

iowa i think is 24.5 cent tax plus 24.5 federal tax. a few years ago either state or feds added 11 cent tax that is non refundable but cant remember witch one. the initial 49 cents is refundable for off road use

hy cap sells the original sears seat for them. dont know about arm rest controls. better seat than k m in my opinion

looks correct to me 361/407 use dowels to locate flywheel. 400 series have a countersunk flywheel that goes over crank to locate. thats why u use the spacer on 400 series

i dont think rei made radios for ih. all the 86 and 88 series radios that ive replaced say made for ih on the tag. then if u keep reading the tag they say made in japan

i have 1 on the shelf that worked when i pulled it out 20 yrs. ago

find a concrete cutting business. a ring saw would be the cheapest but dont know if u have enough room to mount the track. other option wold be a blade saw. resembles a chain saw with carbide teeth. next option would be rent a quicke saw and do it yourself. probbably end up buying the blades when done. use lotsof water to minimize blade wear.

if the blower isnt turning its not going to start.

if housings come off easy u can get the center cartridge then put youre old housings on. most of the time just easier to take to a shop that does pumps and turbos and have it rebuilt. cant remember what engine is in a 150 if its a iveco they use a recycle pump and filter for blowby that if not taken care of will pump oil into the air charge system. have had 2 mcCormicks that customers had engines run away from them and castrophic failure to engine

that looks like it could be a few west coast cities

could not live without a parts washer or three. have a big tank style with a pump in it. bought a hotsy hot water washer that doesa good job and u dont have to stand ther and clean parts but is not big enough for some stuff and seems to cost a lot to keep it hot. the 30 gallon barrel with a agitater motor on top and a big bsket in it is my go to. load basket shut lid turn it on and walk away does a good job of cleaning. as far as ultrasonic i bought a cheap harbor freight 1 to try it out. worked ok but only lasted a year. maybe it wasnt built to use as much as i did. have been looking for a bigger better one. anything that can clean parts with out me standing there for hours with a brush in my hand is a big plus for me

yep

$13.11 in 84