Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by hippy5488

  1. 14 hours ago, DT Fan said:

    I thought long and hard about how to title this. This sums it up. I must be living right came to mind but this is probably closer to the truth.

    As alluded to in the birthday thread the other day, I had blown a brake line in the Red truck. Well, the cause of said failure was a broken sway-bar mount. Here I thought the CC they spray on the roads here had rotted out another steel line, no, got the sway-bar mount this time! I got the line changed remarkably easy. In the process I noticed the broken mount, OK, back to the parts store. That was Wednesday, then the weather went in the tank! So this morning I took another swing at it. Couldn't get it out, need a sawzall, it's at the farm. Also, the bleeder screw is inoperable!! Heat it with propane torch, still won't move. Gave up, went to the farm, actually got some stuff done there. Get back to town, saw the old mount off like nothing! New one goes in pretty easy, cool! So, just need to get some air out of the system. The hex is completely gone on the bleeder screw but the six inch pipe wrench gets 'er done! Tomorrow I'm going to the parts store, they have new bleeder screws and I need more brake fluid. Thought I was going to have to change the caliper and the screws that hold it on don't want to move either.

    Was starting to think this might be the reason I scrap this thing, glad it's not!


    that stuff they spray the roads with should be outlawed. all it does is eat anything metal alive. look what its doing to vehicles then think of what reinforces all of the bridges. a little crack in concrete cc eats rebar. i forsee Iowa having alot of bridges that have to be replaced in 10 to 20 years because of that stuff. but they will never admit it is because of cc spray. all it is good for is costing tax payers money from vehcle repair and having to replace them because they are rust buckets in no time. then what it cost to repair roads and bridges that it ruined. i have been turning wrenches for 40 years never ever have i seen oil pans and diff covers with rust wholes in them till they started using cc on roads

    • Like 3
  2. 12 hours ago, Sledgehammer said:

    Probably more like regulators and valves in reality but I heard of it happening. 

    the lines have tracers on them [fancy heat tapes] to prevent freezing. but when company hires a low ball contractor for upgrades to system and they cut all the tracers they freeze. mid america plant in des moines is a standbuy plant. only runs when needed but when needed its a emergency. gets real cold thawing out frozen lines when your company is called at midnight to fix low ballers mess. but it pays real well

  3. i done something like that years ago. was probably 8 or 9 years old. dad fed alot of fat calves 560 loadertractor that loaded all the silage and moved snow broke down. dealer loaned him a 3200 or 3300b skidloader trying to sell it. after i tipped it over loading silage dad said he would never own one. he never in his life owned a skidloader. but i bought a 3200b for old times sake.

    • Like 1
  4. not sure i would have one powder coated if was planning to keep it a long time. one little scratch or rock chip it starts rusting under powder coat. with paint u can sand and repaint to repair a damaged area. powder coat not so much.

    • Like 1
  5. 2 minutes ago, Jeff-C-IL said:

    You need another tractor.  Chain the front axle short to a 3pt drawbar.  As long as you don't turn too short, that lets you pick the front end up and simply drive to where you need to be.

    u havent seen the hills and corners that have to be negotiated with timber on one side and deep ditches on other side. most of them barely wide enough for tractor to turn in when steering works right. let alone 2 tractors coupled short together

    • Sad 1
  6. 17 hours ago, John misencik said:

    Right side of tractor, 2 steering lines cracked, it should bleed

    if it doesnt bleed with safety relieve valve out or plug for orifice it doesnt matter how many lines u crack.

  7. have never charged the mcv pump with hyd. remotes before. witch port in mcv valve works best? relief valve or small plug with orifice behind it? got one that couldnt get to prime by pulling plug. need to get it closer to road to put on trailer. be nice to have steering and brakes. got some hills to go down and corners to make to get it anywhere close to winching up on trailer.

  8. 1 hour ago, Farmall Doctor said:

    I just had to deal with a tractor that someone glued together! If I knew who that a$$hole make believe “ mechanic” was, I’d kick him right in the kidneys. What a job! I had to literally split the paper gasket, and try to scrape the remnants on the range transmission through the floor of the cab. I ruined a good SnapOn putty knife trying to drive it in to break the lid free. 

    just went through the same thing a week ago. every gasket the idiot put on had aviatiaon junk on one side set up like 4000psi concrete. the other side of gasket had lots of black silicone that was everywhere it shouldnt be. lots of extra hours in that job

    • Like 1
  9. growing up a neighbor had a 806 with m&w turbo on it. it ran really good. he bought a 210 allis the 806 would out work it on the same disc. the main reason was the 210 didnt have a gear where it needed one. either to fast and not enough power or way slow.

    • Like 1
  10. 2 hours ago, Matt Kirsch said:

    Babying them causes more problems than driving them hard. Unfortunately without a big heavy trailer you can't put enough load on them to get things hot enough so the emissions equipment doesn't get screwed up.

    In school bus driver training, they teach you to mash the accelerator pedal to the floor on the diesel/automatic buses. Either your foot is on the floor or it is off the pedal. No in between.

    that must be the same school that the brown delivery truck drivers go to

  11. 18 hours ago, vtfireman85 said:

    I am forever hearing about about diesel pickup owners with very large repair bills, catastrophic failures at relatively low miles and lots of talk about bent push rods, stretched head bolts , blown turbos etc. 

    sitting at a light today I noticed there was a diesel beside me, another in the other direction at the same light, both of them had the same design, they seemed to only have idle and WOT, seems a strange way to design a truck. They had to hang back for traffic to clear then WOT until they ran out of road, and then had to go back to idle until the cars cleared out again, seemed to make navigating the city quite difficult, as i drove around i saw they were not alone in this, seems all of the diesel trucks i saw behaved this way.  The gas trucks in the same traffic and most of the cars seem to have been equipped similarly to my truck where the have an accelerator that allows a gradual increase and decrease of speed at much lower and more gradual engine speeds. 
    i sent a letter off to the big three explaining my findings, i will wait to hear back and report here. I think I may have helped solve many of the issues I hear about with these modern trucks. 

    if the big three get back to u on that maybe u could send a letter to harley davidson they seem to have the same problem. also harley must not put a idle circuit in there carbs. or computers. seems like riders have to keep twisting the throttle to keep them running at stop lights and signs

    • Haha 2
  12. 13 hours ago, DWV said:

    Be interesting to know what the advance rate and total is in the replacement distributors. Most tractor listed as distributor fitting came with 30 or 40 degrees total advance at crank. If fire crater pistons were used most were supposed to be changed to 22 degrees. Since a gasoline 400 was 25 degrees no distributor change parts included with a complete fire crater kit on those.  

    my one and only experiance with after market dist. customer got one from allstate i installed it it didnt put any advance in timing called them customer took that one back and got another one. this one put 25 degrees of timing in at wot. but thats where it stayed when going back to idle. in my opion ther complete junk. oh yeah they come with a little sticker on them that says warranty void if removed. taped between housing and cap. how are u supposed to time dist. on install without removing cap to see rotor? 

  13. 2 minutes ago, hippy5488 said:

    f3 code is solenoid on hitch valve could be wiring or solenoid bad

    h3 code is the performance code for hitch solenoid f codes have priority over h codes i would check voltage to solenoid

  14. if its a a&i pump with a plastic impellar dont waste your time putting it on. neighbor put one on his little deere tractor 2 weeks later impeller came off tractor got hot. got pump replaced 2nd pump did same thing in a month but this time a young kid was bush hogging with it. cost him a good chunk of change after i overhauled it.

  • Create New...