hippy5488

that stuff they spray the roads with should be outlawed. all it does is eat anything metal alive. look what its doing to vehicles then think of what reinforces all of the bridges. a little crack in concrete cc eats rebar. i forsee Iowa having alot of bridges that have to be replaced in 10 to 20 years because of that stuff. but they will never admit it is because of cc spray. all it is good for is costing tax payers money from vehcle repair and having to replace them because they are rust buckets in no time. then what it cost to repair roads and bridges that it ruined. i have been turning wrenches for 40 years never ever have i seen oil pans and diff covers with rust wholes in them till they started using cc on roads

the lines have tracers on them [fancy heat tapes] to prevent freezing. but when company hires a low ball contractor for upgrades to system and they cut all the tracers they freeze. mid america plant in des moines is a standbuy plant. only runs when needed but when needed its a emergency. gets real cold thawing out frozen lines when your company is called at midnight to fix low ballers mess. but it pays real well

i done something like that years ago. was probably 8 or 9 years old. dad fed alot of fat calves 560 loadertractor that loaded all the silage and moved snow broke down. dealer loaned him a 3200 or 3300b skidloader trying to sell it. after i tipped it over loading silage dad said he would never own one. he never in his life owned a skidloader. but i bought a 3200b for old times sake.

iowa state custom rate survey is the closest youre going to get to be fair to both sides

not sure i would have one powder coated if was planning to keep it a long time. one little scratch or rock chip it starts rusting under powder coat. with paint u can sand and repaint to repair a damaged area. powder coat not so much.

got it apart. nut must of came loose on pump as it wasnt on it when pulled out. letting gear work on shaft causing key to shear.

check pto shaft timing. then grease the drive shaft where it goes thru the support tube. zerk on front and back of tube. use lots of grease

just to let people know the plug for orifice worked well. had good steering and brakes. took 5 min. to put hose on then 30 min. to get to road to winch on trailer.

u havent seen the hills and corners that have to be negotiated with timber on one side and deep ditches on other side. most of them barely wide enough for tractor to turn in when steering works right. let alone 2 tractors coupled short together

im guessing either sheared key or shaft on pump sheared. trying to come up with a safe easy plan to get it to road to haul it. when weather agrees going to try it.

if it doesnt bleed with safety relieve valve out or plug for orifice it doesnt matter how many lines u crack.

have never charged the mcv pump with hyd. remotes before. witch port in mcv valve works best? relief valve or small plug with orifice behind it? got one that couldnt get to prime by pulling plug. need to get it closer to road to put on trailer. be nice to have steering and brakes. got some hills to go down and corners to make to get it anywhere close to winching up on trailer.

what is the shop rate in your area? dealer or independent shops

just went through the same thing a week ago. every gasket the idiot put on had aviatiaon junk on one side set up like 4000psi concrete. the other side of gasket had lots of black silicone that was everywhere it shouldnt be. lots of extra hours in that job

growing up a neighbor had a 806 with m&w turbo on it. it ran really good. he bought a 210 allis the 806 would out work it on the same disc. the main reason was the 210 didnt have a gear where it needed one. either to fast and not enough power or way slow.

absolutely despise net wrap and plastic twine. the hay i put up gets sisal twine on bales. bought hay has net or plastic takes three times as long to remove especially if frozen snow or rain on them.

that must be the same school that the brown delivery truck drivers go to

if the big three get back to u on that maybe u could send a letter to harley davidson they seem to have the same problem. also harley must not put a idle circuit in there carbs. or computers. seems like riders have to keep twisting the throttle to keep them running at stop lights and signs

there is no switch on the range side. speed is the only thing the sentry controls. high and low clutch press. is monitored by sentry. anything below 9 volts will really mess with electronics

my one and only experiance with after market dist. customer got one from allstate i installed it it didnt put any advance in timing called them customer took that one back and got another one. this one put 25 degrees of timing in at wot. but thats where it stayed when going back to idle. in my opion ther complete junk. oh yeah they come with a little sticker on them that says warranty void if removed. taped between housing and cap. how are u supposed to time dist. on install without removing cap to see rotor?

h3 code is the performance code for hitch solenoid f codes have priority over h codes i would check voltage to solenoid

f3 code is solenoid on hitch valve could be wiring or solenoid bad

hy capacity got me one with a cast impellar.

56 bulb 256 in lube light

if its a a&i pump with a plastic impellar dont waste your time putting it on. neighbor put one on his little deere tractor 2 weeks later impeller came off tractor got hot. got pump replaced 2nd pump did same thing in a month but this time a young kid was bush hogging with it. cost him a good chunk of change after i overhauled it.