Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

2 Neutral

About Bread

  • Rank

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. My time driving this truck over the past year or so has shown me that these old IH's will wear out a mans body before the truck wears out. It's a rough riding machine! If only the sheet metal doesn't rust away.
  2. If it were me I'd unbolt the hinges, and with a few jacks lift the cab and block it up resting on top of the frame. I don't have a crane or lift though. I think if you get the weight off the hinges by strategically place your blocks so they're not in your way there will be room to cut out the old floor structure. Obviously this would be better to do in a shop on a concrete floor if possible. Once the new floor is tacked in, lower the cab down and bolt it back down to the frame. Finish weld in place so you know it's aligned and going to fit!
  3. Life has been busy, but I bought another flatbed so I can free this one up for some repairs. I removed the cab tilt cylinder and put a come along in its place. I pulled the floor down, and started massaging that buckled back wall and floor. Got the vertical steel flattened out pretty good. After grinding out quite a bit of bondo the root of the problem revealed itself. The floor seams had rotted out, and four patch panels were slapped down in an attempt to get the truck back on the road. There’s no structure on the drivers side at all, so I’m going to start cutting the floor out to repair this mess. I’m no body man but I suppose a floor is as good a place to learn as any.
  4. I've mounted a Stellar knuckleboom crane to my Cargostar that I purchased used from truck being parted out. It has a hydraulic air compressor mounted to it, which is not covered in the factory literature. The hydraulic pump has been rebranded "Force America" so I'm not able to research the spec sheet on this pump. It's a double gear pump (I believe is the correct term), so one output goes to the crane hydraulic manifold, and the other output goes to the hydraulic motor on the compressor. The problem, which is which? To me it would seem the output on the end of the pump is probably low pressure suited for the compressor. In the picture you can see the suction port on the top, then a pressure port directly opposing it on the bottom, and the second pressure port on the end. Seeking advice from those more knowledgeable in this matter. I did seek out information from Force America but have not heard back.
  5. Oh wow, mine is in bad shape then. Yes that helps tremendously thank you!
  6. Yea, there isn't anything but sheet metal protecting my knees in a front end collision. Got damn good air brakes though! Always gotta be strapped to the seat or you risk getting ejected through the windshield. Great visibility and manuverabilit in these trucks so it's suited perfectly for the occasional machinery hauling I do in Seattle. But a bear to drive due to no power steering and the 392 gas motor. But I love this truck. Just needs to be protected from a slow rusty death, much like all International trucks. I've been picking away at the rust and body filler packed in the seams this week, and it looks like the floor should in fact have a bit of slope from the center. Just not as much as it does now. I'm going to remove the lift cylinder and put a hydraulic puller in there. Might try a come-along first, but probably going to need the hydraulics. The shifter gasket is 1/2" below the floor, so I'll pull until that gap gets eliminated or reduced. Beyond that, as long as the broken seams line up decently at the back of the footwell I'll call it good and start welding in new steel.
  7. Hey guys, Can anybody post a pic or tell me if the shape of my floor is normal or not? There's a large hump in the middle and a strange wrinkle on the vertical sheet going up to the seat pan. The seams have all separated and need to be welded back up. When tilting the cab, the lift cylinder makes the floor flex, pop and bend. I think this stress point has bent the floor, but I've never sat in another Cargostar before so no way to know. I'd like to address the repairs this summer while the weather is good here in Washington.
  8. I've got a 1974 Cargostar 1810B with the SV392 engine and air brakes. Manual steering, and man what a bear to drive in the city. I've got to navigate tight parking lots, bay doors and yards every time I use this truck, and it's damn hard work. I've got respece for the men that drove these in the 70's. Anybody know where I can find a power steering gear and pump setup for this truck? I found a used box which is a Sheppard 292. But not sure which pump and bracket I'll need to mount on a 392 with air brakes. I suppose I could just make my own, but who knows if I'll need a different steering shaft, coupler, etc. Here's a shot of my manual steering gear, which mounts inside the frame with the steering linkage on the outside.
  9. I've got a '74 Cargostar with air brakes and a Fuller manual transmission. It has a clutch master cylinder that mounts in the same spot as your brake master, and looks the same. I bought a new unit from Rock Auto for $112.61. It doesn't show a part for a '74, but the part for a 1980 looked the same and had the same bore size so I took a chance and bought it. Centric part number 136.83003 and has an 1-1/8" bore. Fit perfect and works great. I looked up your truck and it says to use Centric 136.83002, but the picture doesn't look right. If you can confirm it has an 1-1/8" bore you could order the same one I got. Only difference I can see from your pic is that the filler is on the opposite side.
  • Create New...