IHhogfarmer

Thanks for the kind words, hopefully if I have time this week I can get the grill and side panels back on. I wanted to post a video of the tractor running but it won’t let me post one☹️

Makes you wish you were that smart? oh well for me it’s just a glimpse of what the real world is like ? I really like the ad of the Hamilton Works product line

Ice bag

Well I guess I shouldn’t believe everything I read but it is still good for me to get corrected by guys with more experience that me? Back to the Hesston swathers I found a diagram that show how the 500 Auger header windrower operated and some of the features it had when it was introduced in 1962. Both pics are 500’s

Today was a huge success as we got the cub running! First of all, I want to thank everyone for looking at my project and for those who have given me good advice along the way it really helped! Last night put the carberator back on and got the governor rod and choke linkages put back together. Today we got hydraulic oil and a tread tape and screws for the holes on the sides of the front casting for the side panels, I don’t have that and the grill screen on yet but that’s the one thing left to do. After dad and I got fluids back in I started it for the first time and it started right up! Then a few seconds later it quite because it was a little cold and it had been sitting for 3 months but it finally started running pretty good and it runs better then It did before. I then drove it around the yard quite a few times and got some shots of it in the pasture and then with the spreader. I had also told dad that it’s even nicer to drive just because it shows a lot more red paint? I guess the next thing to do now is to get another project to work on. Here’s a few pics I took today. Enjoy the pics and thanks again!

Big bud guy and loadstar, thanks for the correction I guess I should have done a little research before I posted? I did a quick search on the older swathers and didn’t find much from the early 50’s but I did see a picture of a Minneapolis-Moline self-propelled swather the SP-101.

It looks to me like a 75 foot Draper head could make one big windrow. If that’s the case I would imagine you couldn’t use one in very heavy crop conditions. Neat add though. I don’t really have any ads for Hesston swathers but I have a issue of Heritage Iron Magazine that talks about how Hesston got their start and about the swathers that followed decades after. Mechanically it doesn’t talk much of how the model 100 swather works but it was introduced in 1955 by Lyle Yost, the company founder, after management(I assume Hesston management) purchased a self-propelled swather concept from a tractor dealer and a machine owner in Iowa and the model 100 was introduced as the first commercially self-propelled swather in the industry. Then in 1959 an new model, the 220 was introduced.

Gas tank

db1486 hope you find one I would like to see it in action. Honeybees aren’t really popular around here... if there would be they wouldn’t be as big as the drapers in the ad. Mac don headers are very common around here. I have seen Honeybees on tractor house but not of that vintage most are from the 2000 to 2010 range.

This may not quite qualify as a “Vintage Ad” but since we have been on pull type combines/windrowers I thought this would fit. I’ve never seen one in action but it would be cool to see that Gleaner N series combine and 51 ft? Draper header in action. In 1992 A honey bee Draper header would be a faster way to cut your grain if you were in a big hurry. I would imagine they were used in flat, wide open wheat country especially

I got the clutch put back on and used a clutch alignment tool so everything is good there. We have had the tractor put back together for about a week and I re-did some of the wiring like the starter, main wire harness and the battery cable. The batter box, connections, and battery posts had some corrosion on them so I cleaned all of that up and got everything put back together. After I was satisfied with how things looked so far I flipped the hood upside down on a set of saw horses took the fuel strainer off cleaned that and used brake cleaner, a wire brush and a putty knife lightly to clean the junk off. Then after that was done we put the hood on. The only thing left now is to put the carb on... I need to do some work on that, get hydraulic fluid in the hydraulic block, put engine oil in, antifreeze, and use a tread tape to rethread some holes for the side panels in the front casting. So I’m close hang in there too see the finished product?

Interesting read I love the new look of that 7. That would be a lot of fun to use to work in the field.

I’ve seen part of that cartoon before on YouTube kinda entertaining to watch Here’s another New Holland ad from 1980 on the TR-75,85, and 95

Thanks for the website. That is how I learned how to read the casting dates but I never looked for parts until the other day. Thank you everyone one else for the kind words and advice. This past Saturday I did a LOT of work with the cub. First dad heated the pulley and put it on the shaft, then we took the front end to the car wash and it cleaned most of the big stuff off. Since we don’t have a cherry pickers made our own stand for the front end which has worked. And when we got in there we took the clutch off and everything on it looks good on it. This tractor was split in the rear in 1984( we have paper work from then and it show what was done to it) it shows there was a clutch kit so I assume they replaced the clutch and the retainer was replaced during that time also because it has an IH R2 part #. The next step it to put the rear main back together and we need to get a clutch alignment tool also so I think I am on the downhill side of tackling this project?

The valve inspection cover was stuck on pretty good so I used a flathead screwdriver to slowly pry it off. The I had to scrap off the old seal and used the parts cleaner and a wire brush to clean everything up, it took a while but it cleaned up pretty well. The valves inside looked good to me even though I don’t know a whole lot about them. The I put the cover back on with the new gasket and tightened up the bolts. What’s next on the list is taking the front of the tractor to the car wash to clean it up and put the front pulley back on so hopefully both will be done by the end of the weekend. Here is a picture of the valves and the cover when I got done cleaning both sides.

Over the last couple days I’ve made some headway with the cub project. Wednesday night dad and I installed the seal that goes in the housing for the governor and magneto( I’ve heard that’s called a small bore seal but not sure) the the front main gasket went in and the front casting went on. Then the governor gasket and the governor went on and the governor shaft also and then tightened everything up. Yesterday I did quite a bit too I got new hoses for the water intake and radiator then put the water intake back on and installed the magneto then went around to the other side of the engine to remove the valve cover and replace the gasket and finally installed the carburetor.

Thanks for the info Art I wonder if there was an advantage over that setup versus the regular Hitch kit that was put on later drills and planters. This may answer you question about the rope going across the planter. With This 1/16 scale custom set up there is two ropes and they tie to the rope going across the drill in two different places and then that must control the markers. There is an article about this, they said it was used in the late 60’s and early 70’s and the tractor is a 4320, it also says the disc is a 14-foot JD BWA and the drill is two JD PDA 7- foot pony press drills. Maybe Big Bud Guy would know a little more about this

In the last picture what is the purpose of the setup with the frame going around the rear tires and hooked to the planter hitch? I've never seen it before

When we replace the coil in the mag last fall our mechanic looked over it and said that everything looked good, and everything was in good shape when the tractor last ran. One thing I would like to find out is the best way of getting the new seals in correctly. Last night we tried to install the seal that goes in the housing between the governor and the mag but it seemed like it didn’t want to go in, any ideas on this it would be helpful-thx

The first pic is after I took the magneto off and then the water intake came off for cleaning I and use brake cleaner behind all that. The second pic is after we got the governor seal out, to do that I had to take the idler gear out so I could get to it. The last picture is just of numerous parts that I have taken off. I cleaned the governor up with brake cleaner and didn’t do anything with the carberator or the magneto, however we did replace the coil for the mag last fall so it is in good shape the other is the water intake casting after I cleaned it up and the part above that is the idler gear that I mentioned before.

Parts came today. We had to order the whole engine kit with the front,real main gaskets, oil pan gasket and numerous other gaskets and seals that I’ll replace too. We had to order a new pulley unfortunately because part of the original chipped off. Stiener had to get the governor seal from a different place and that’s my guess as why it took so long to get here. For getting the governor seal on correctly what is the best way to get it back in without damaging anything, do you hav to put any grease on it to get it in?

Nothing major right now. We ordered the parts we needed last week and they haven’t came yet so hopefully the will come before the weekend so I can work on the tractor some more. I did take the hydraulic lines off and cleaned them up (there in really nice shape) and since I got a few things off I used some WD-40 to see how well things cleaned up and it did pretty well. But we got some brake cleaner so I’ll do more cleaning with that . One thing I’m not sure about is getting the governor back on and everything timed right Ive been doing some research on that but we'll see about that when dad and I have to put it back on- sorry it’s been slow guys ?

Ordered oil seals yesterday and a couple other parts from Steiner tractor parts and since this is an FFA project they said that they would do free shipping for the parts so that's a win-win. Parts should be here late next week so hopefully I can start covering some more ground on this project.

After we got the pulley off I took the front casting off and use the parts washer on that and other bold and the governor rod.These are before and after pics of the parts that I cleaned last night. I know there not restoration quality but I did the best I could with what I could use to clean them and I’m not restoring it now so that okay.This is after I got the casting off and everything is pretty clean inside. Now we will order the seal kit and the front main seal and the governor seal will be replaced. Then I’ll go onto the rear main seal. I’ve had a lot of fun doing this so far since it’s my first tractor to tear into and I’m learning new things everytime I work on it. I just did this last night and so I will keep you guys posted on how it is going.

It’s been a while since I posted on General IH about starting into this project- been busy since then but now have had some time to work on the tractor. Basically, we’ve split the front end and clean different parts. Dad drilled two holes in these pieces of metal and mounted them on the cultivator mounts. We ended up having to use a torch to take the front pully off